Bicycle Mechanics - Removing stuck Shimano 600 freewheel

I've acquired an old Shimano 600 freewheel that's pretty tight on the hub, and someone's stripped the two-prong adapter slots. I was going to try to take it apart with a spanner, and I've got a Park SPA-1 spanner, but it doesn't fit in the holes without hitting the side of the freewheel.

Any ideas on which spanner I can get that will fit/how I can get this freewheel off?

Thanks!

269482

You may have a problem removing the bearing race even if you have the right wrench. The burrs raised when the notches were deformed overhang the ring and act as a lock. You can grind the burrs off with a Dremel then drive the ring off with a hammer and punch.

Often when confronted with a damaged freewheel like yours I can get it off using a better fitting remover with sharp corners, saving me the hard way option. When using a remover is definitely out, I use chain whips to remove the sprockets, and put the body in a vise. I close the vise hard enough to crush the body until it jams or cracks (either is OK) and then turn the wheel off (to the left). If it slips, I crush harder until it holds and I can remove the wheel.

It tends to be brittle steel, and cracks quite easily in the vise.

It tends to be brittle steel, and cracks quite easily in the vise.

Yes, most crack before crushing, which brings up a point I failed to mention earlier. Even though the risk is small, they sometimes send off small shards at high energy when they crack, so wear safety glasses.

Also, the ring with the spanner holes may be reverse-threaded.

Also, the ring with the spanner holes may be reverse-threaded.

Not may be. To my knowledge they are all left hand threaded so the freewheel's counterclockwise motion doesn't unscrew the race.

I think you still *might* be able to remove it with the 2 pronged tool. Put the tool in place, then lock it down with a nut on the axle. Dont crank the nut down hard but just snug it so there isn't any play at all between the tool and the freewheel.

Then put the tool into your vise and turn the wheel to the left hard. Once you break it free, then take the nut off which then should be really tight.

You may have a problem removing the bearing race even if you have the right wrench. The burrs raised when the notches were deformed overhang the ring and act as a lock. You can grind the burrs off with a Dremel then drive the ring off with a hammer and punch.

Often when confronted with a damaged freewheel like yours I can get it off using a better fitting remover with sharp corners, saving me the hard way option. When using a remover is definitely out, I use chain whips to remove the sprockets, and put the body in a vise. I close the vise hard enough to crush the body until it jams or cracks (either is OK) and then turn the wheel off (to the left). If it slips, I crush harder until it holds and I can remove the wheel.

Is there any other kind of pin spanner that you think would fit? The burrs will be no problem to get off.

Is there any other kind of pin spanner that you think would fit? The burrs will be no problem to get off.

Years ago Park and others made spanners with smaller pins (the park was red) but with freewheel service such a dead issue I don't think anybody makes them anymore.

Set the corner of a chisel against the hole and give it a shot with a hammer, and the ring will move. You may mar it, but who cares since you won't be using this one anymore. BTW- they loosen to the right (clockwise), so don't go nuts trying to move it the wrong way.

If you can get the axle out from the other side, a large Easy-Out may be able to remove the freewheel body.

I think you still *might* be able to remove it with the 2 pronged tool. Put the tool in place, then lock it down with a nut on the axle. Dont crank the nut down hard but just snug it so there isn't any play at all between the tool and the freewheel.

Then put the tool into your vise and turn the wheel to the left hard. Once you break it free, then take the nut off which then should be really tight.

My thought too. Some of the removers have a "ring" with the prongs inside, so that it stays in place pretty well. Yours doesn't look too damaged.

Having lots of experience removing 2 prong freewheels and manufacturing removers for them, I suggest that the ring may be counter-productive.

It really depends depth of the slots vs. the ring. If the slots are sub-flush to the lockring then a ring on the remover will prevent the dogs from reaching the bottom of the slot and engaging what may be left of a good purchase. The remover will be driving with one prong only. Prong strength is limited, and while a properly engaged remover will rarely break, at half strength it's demise is almost ensured, adding the cost of a remover to the OP's expenses.

If there is still good purchase at the bottom of the damaged ring, and if the OPs remover can engage it, he has a decent chance of removing it if he bolts the remover down securely (almost as tight as when mounting the wheel in the frame). Otherwise, especially if he doesn't plan to reuse the freehweel he should cut his losses by removing it destructively.

My thought too. Some of the removers have a "ring" with the prongs inside, so that it stays in place pretty well. Yours doesn't look too damaged.

I think this is the 'fishl one for those:

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff237/mechBgon/IMG_0223.jpg


Not may be. To my knowledge they are all left hand threaded so the freewheel's counterclockwise motion doesn't unscrew the race.

I'm pretty sure you're right, I just hate to make sweeping generalizations and then be wrong :D

I think this is the 'fishl one for those:

That is the strongest remover if this type, since the prongs are one piece with the ring and there have support from it. But it too, can slip on an already damaged freewheel.


I'm pretty sure you're right, I just hate to make sweeping generalizations and then be wrong :D

So do I which is why I hedge by prefacing with "to my knowledge".

I think this is the 'fishl one for those:

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff237/mechBgon/IMG_0223.jpg

The Bicycle Research CT-1 also has this ring, and the ring is removable in case you run into clearance problems:

http://www.velobase.com/VeloImages/Tools/BF545E32-C10F-48B1-809C-C8796EA43DE7.jpeg

Even with the Dura Ace removal tool above, a combination of a Dremel cutting tool and a large wrench did the trick. With two chainwhips, I couldn't get the locking sprocket off, so I cut it off. Then I couldn't use the pin spanner to get the bearing race off, so I cut away part of the freewheel and eventually cut the race apart. Finally, I got the other sprockets off. To get the rest of the freewheel off, I cut two wrench slots in the body and used a large wrench to get it off.

Basically, a lot of cutting.

Thanks for the help, everyone!