Bicycle Mechanics - Do you have this tool? Need info on handle dimensions.

I would like to know the width of the handle of the following pedal wrench:

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o197/old_fool/Tools/prstl0009.jpg


I know it seems like an odd question, so let me explain: I have a carbon steel pipe that I use to increase the torque of some of my bicycle tools - like my BB tool, for instance. It's important that the handle fits inside the pipe somewhat snugly.

the photo seems to be taken close to straight on, and has little or no perspective taper. So measure the width of the 13mm (or 15mm) slot in the picture and use it to establish scale, then measure the width of the handle, and adjust for the real value. With a bit of care you should know to within a millimeter or two.

If you're lucky you'll have a fairly decisive answer, but if it's borderline, you'll have to await confirmation by an actual measurement.

the photo seems to be taken close to straight on, and has little or no perspective taper. So measure the width of the 13mm (or 15mm) slot in the picture and use it to establish scale, then measure the width of the handle, and adjust for the real value. With a bit of care you should know to within a millimeter or two.

If you're lucky you'll have a fairly decisive answer, but if it's borderline, you'll have to await confirmation by an actual measurement.

Thanks, but that's how I once almost got the wrong size frame.

I'll just wait for the right man to make an appearance.

You shouldn't need a cheater bar for a pedal wrench.

You shouldn't need a cheater bar for a pedal wrench.

I'd like to introduce you to a few pedals that are very stubborn.

I'm still hoping that an actual owner will make an appearance.

I'd like to introduce you to a few pedals that are very stubborn.
There is no reason for it but I've also run across pedals that must have been installed with an air impact wrench set to "extra tight". I guess that's why Park's pedal wrench is so big.

There is no reason for it but I've also run across pedals that must have been installed with an air impact wrench set to "extra tight". I guess that's why Park's pedal wrench is so big.
Other than providing extra torque, it's nice to have a tool that's longer than the cranks so your hands clear the bottom bracket. This comes up when you're installing or removing pedals by rotating the cranks rather than turning the wrench.
If the OP uses a cheater pipe that's too thick, the pipe will be rubbing the crank arm.

You shouldn't need a cheater bar for a pedal wrench.

How much salt air is in Oklahoma? Cheater bars are routine for pedal wrenches here on the coast.

If the OP uses a cheater pipe that's too thick, the pipe will be rubbing the crank arm.

Regardless of the application, nobody with an ounce of common sense fits the cheater pipe until adding final torque, so it's only there for a few degrees of motion.

Regardless of the application, nobody with an ounce of common sense fits the cheater pipe until adding final torque, so it's only there for a few degrees of motion.

With a pedal wrench it's 'getting it off' that requires the extra torque. I've run into a few where the pedal required a lot of torque for several complete turns.

With a pedal wrench it's 'getting it off' that requires the extra torque. I've run into a few where the pedal required a lot of torque for several complete turns.

I've run into a few of those over the years, but if I'm needing lots of torque, I can't use the quick spin the crank method. It's one or the other, spin the cranks or use a cheater bar. But I must have a limited imagination because I can't see a situation where I'd be concerned with cheater bar/crank arm clearance, which is the point I was making in my prior post.

I've run into a few of those over the years, but if I'm needing lots of torque, I can't use the quick spin the crank method. It's one or the other, spin the cranks or use a cheater bar. But I must have a limited imagination because I can't see a situation where I'd be concerned with cheater bar/crank arm clearance, which is the point I was making in my prior post.
The first pic shows a wrench similar to the OP. Imagine a pipe fitted 3/4 of the way up the handle. No room. The second pic shows a dedicated Park wrench (an older one with a medium length, not the newer one which is quite a bit longer.) The thick part of the handle is close, and a cheater pipe would certainly be much thicker and closer.
I've also run into pedals that need a lot of torque to unfasten, probably more torque possible with a short handled wrench. Fortunately, I'm provided with a Park wrench with an sufficiently long handle.
After looking at the OP's wrench, it looks like it might be offset, unless that's a trick of the lighting in the pic.

Welp, looks like I'm not buying this tool, then. This purchase decision is entangled with the purchase of a few other tools and bike components, so basically I'll also buy from an entirely different supplier who sells a different set of tools including the pedal wrench.

I had to extend the handle of a crank remover recently when replacing my bottom bracket and crankarm wouldn't budge. I simply zip-tied a steel seatpost to the handle of the wrench. Had to use a lot of zip ties to get a solid connection, and it doesn't look elegant, but it worked nicely. No concern about if it would fit inside.

Regardless of the application, nobody with an ounce of common sense fits the cheater pipe until adding final torque, so it's only there for a few degrees of motion.
If you are using a cheater bar to install anything, you're doing it wrong and should consider a new career path. We aren't torquing cylinder heads on a Caterpillar diesel, just pedals to a crank.

If you are using a cheater bar to install anything, you're doing it wrong and should consider a new career path. We aren't torquing cylinder heads on a Caterpillar diesel, just pedals to a crank.

Of course, I only need the extra torque when removing components (pedals, for instance), not when installing.

A small crescent wrench with a cheater bar or a hammer seems to work for me.

The pedal wrench does look nice though.

The pedal wrench you're looking at is a Shimano Pro Tool Pedal Wrench. Handle width is a continuous 30.1mm x 18.0mm across the widest part of the oval cross section. The real issue is the length. Its only 23cm long - perfect for pedal INSTALLATION, but much, much shorter than either the Pedros or Park Professional Shop Versions - neither of which I've ever needed to use a cheater bar with for seized pedal REMOVAL.

I took my pair of chain wrenches , and added a short piece of steel tube.
back when freewheels were actually serviceable..
and ovalized tube just enough to jam over the 2 pieces of hot rolled steel flat bar
the chain whips were riveted to..

squeeze the tube till it fits..

A shop use pedal wrench is about 300mm long (about a foot).

Also, never push the wrench, but pull it! When it gets loose you would encounter a sudden twist on great angle. If you push it, your fingers/hand might hit the chainstay, chain, the crank itself, etc. It almost always rip some skin away. Always pull on wrenches and never push.

The pedal wrench you're looking at is a Shimano Pro Tool Pedal Wrench. Handle width is a continuous 30.1mm x 18.0mm across the widest part of the oval cross section. The real issue is the length. Its only 23cm long - perfect for pedal INSTALLATION, but much, much shorter than either the Pedros or Park Professional Shop Versions - neither of which I've ever needed to use a cheater bar with for seized pedal REMOVAL.

Thank you sir. Could you kindly also tell me the width of the steel core of the handle?

Thank you sir. Could you kindly also tell me the width of the steel core of the handle?
Steel handle is 24mm wide x 4.25mm thick. But would like to restate that the length is only about 1/2 the overall length of a Park Tool Pro Pedal Wrench or a Pedros Pro Pedal Wrench.