Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Stability and control, handlebars.

So I recently bought Nitto B125AA drops. They are beautiful, I taped them up, and they are great to ride with. I fit my bike, everything is great, except I feel like with risers I had before had a lot more stability and control overall AND I feel I could also stop/skid a lot faster (I ride brakeless with velcro straps, don't lecture me).

Would anyone be willing to give me their opinion on this matter? Maybe I need to raise my seat a lot higher (I think I fit nicely currently but I notice the seat beating super high with a lot of drop riders)? Maybe I need to start riding clipless pedals? I know in general track drops have much less room for your hands and only one position (basically two), so I realize it is smaller.

All I know is when I ride my old risers or when I used to ride with my old bullhorns I could stop better, hold myself better, and I just had great control. The only time I have great control now is when I'm actually in the drops which even then, I don't have stopping power like I did with the risers. Do you think I would have better control with road drops maybe?

I'm just looking for opinions on those questions and also on what handlebars have the best control, in your opinion.

Thank you.

yes

yes
ahahahah to which question?

So I recently bought Nitto B125AA drops. They are beautiful, I taped them up, and they are great to ride with. I fit my bike, everything is great, except I feel like with risers I had before had a lot more stability and control overall AND I feel I could also stop/skid a lot faster (I ride brakeless with velcro straps, don't lecture me).

Would anyone be willing to give me their opinion on this matter? Maybe I need to raise my seat a lot higher (I think I fit nicely currently but I notice the seat beating super high with a lot of drop riders)? Maybe I need to start riding clipless pedals? I know in general track drops have much less room for your hands and only one position (basically two), so I realize it is smaller.

All I know is when I ride my old risers or when I used to ride with my old bullhorns I could stop better, hold myself better, and I just had great control. The only time I have great control now is when I'm actually in the drops which even then, I don't have stopping power like I did with the risers. Do you think I would have better control with road drops maybe?

I'm just looking for opinions on those questions and also on what handlebars have the best control, in your opinion.

Thank you.

And that's not always a good thing.

I won't lecture about riding brakeless, but I would about track drops on the street. Use em for racing, or not at all. I switched to compact drops as soon as I got my bike.

And that's not always a good thing.

I won't lecture about riding brakeless, but I would about track drops on the street. Use em for racing, or not at all. I switched to compact drops as soon as I got my bike.
ha I know, everyone gets on me about it. Any brand in particular? A lot of people say Soma Hwy One's or 3TErganova's. I may consider bullhorns as well, I used to ride with them a long time ago.

i run older nitto b111 drops, i enjoy em picked them up on the cheap. look on craigslist and find a cheap set of road drops. If you like them good, if you like them but want higher quality spend the money afterwards.

When you're in the drops, your body utilizes different muscles to stop & go than then you're sitting more upright as with risers.

Get some shallower drops that you can ride in tops and hooks of, and report back.

I like my Ergonovas.

Chelseaandannoy,

I'd like to mention that you are a 2-part system on the bike.

Part 1: Butt vs Pedals.

This is essential. This is your foundation of your bike fit. 99% of the time, this will be the same no matter what handlebars you use. Work on setting the proper relationship between your butt (saddle height, fore/aft) and your pedals. Lock it down then move to Part 2.


Part 2: Butt vs Handlebars

Now that your butt is in a comfortable and powerful position, figure out how low you want your back to be.

ALL handlebars do one thing...they set where your hands (and ultimately, your back) will be when you ride.

Figure out how low...or not-low...you want to be and use the right bars to get your hands in that spot.

The type of bar doesn't matter that much. What matters is how high/low you set them. For example:
- You can get some super deep track drops and use a 4cm of headset spacers and a +24 degree stem and have your hands super high. I've seen this done.
- You can have some shallow bullhorns and have a -24 degree stem and have your hands super low.

http://i.imgur.com/OlHH5.jpg


I hope this helps.

So after opening this one to ask:
I haz questions about drops (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/836942-Drop-down-brands?highlight=)
phew that was alot, so I take it from reading that thread we shouldn't get track drops....

No! wait I want to ask one more time, learning hurts:
Can haz 'nother? (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/838112-Riding-with-track-drop-downs-a-bad-idea?highlight=)

Screw it I dont care what people think, im gonna get some track drops.....


...And now lets fast forward to a large helping of "wait what happened"

Also...

The low-bar look is just that...a look. It looks great in photos, but is terrible for casual riding.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j55ciDsCvsk/T0Uj5a-ufnI/AAAAAAAADNE/-4T9QMdkRac/s1600/496-ZED.jpg

It's really only viable for those who are in that position for less than 5 minutes at a time...seriously. Even professional track sprinters cannot sit in that position for more than a few minutes before becoming uncomfortable. Why would someone setup their commuter bike this way?!! Looks, that's why. For the looks.

Have you ever sat in a real race car at an auto show or something? Did you notice how uncomfortable the seat was? It's very hard, very upright, and allows for no movement (even a cm) in any direction? That's because if you are driving a race car and pulling Gs in a crazy hard turn and your butt moves, then your feet on the gas/brake pedals move. This is not a good thing. So, they lock you in super tight. Now imagine driving around town in such a seat in a regular car. It would get really uncomfortable really quickly. That's what it's like riding a bike setup in a deep-drop racing position. Why would you do that?

So after opening this one to ask:
I haz questions about drops (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/836942-Drop-down-brands?highlight=)
phew that was alot, so I take it from reading that thread we shouldn't get track drops....

No! wait I want to ask one more time, learning hurts:
Can haz 'nother? (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/838112-Riding-with-track-drop-downs-a-bad-idea?highlight=)

Screw it I dont care what people think, im gonna get some track drops.....


...And now lets fast forward to a large helping of "wait what happened"

Hahaha!! I hadn't noticed that.

Apparently, the OP likes learning the hard way.

Well for the vendors that will happen to be a good thing ;) at least folks gave him good answers in all 3 threads.

The other factor that hasn't been mentioned is that the farther your hands are from the stem the more mechanical advantage you have in turning. Risers generally put your hands farther away from the fulcrum (i.e. the stem) as opposed to riding 38mm track drops, especially if you are riding the tarck way with your hands up on top near the stem. Of course, I'm stupid so I might have that wrong.

So after opening this one to ask:
I haz questions about drops (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/836942-Drop-down-brands?highlight=)
phew that was alot, so I take it from reading that thread we shouldn't get track drops....

No! wait I want to ask one more time, learning hurts:
Can haz 'nother? (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/838112-Riding-with-track-drop-downs-a-bad-idea?highlight=)

Screw it I dont care what people think, im gonna get some track drops.....


...And now lets fast forward to a large helping of "wait what happened"A wait what happened would be me selling my drops, in which I am not. I am using them for trail riding/long distance where I don't need brakes and can get more power, so no, you aren't right. Thanks for your opinion <3

When you're in the drops, your body utilizes different muscles to stop & go than then you're sitting more upright as with risers.

Get some shallower drops that you can ride in tops and hooks of, and report back.

I like my Ergonovas.


i run older nitto b111 drops, i enjoy em picked them up on the cheap. look on craigslist and find a cheap set of road drops. If you like them good, if you like them but want higher quality spend the money afterwards.

Thank you, I shall do that.

The other factor that hasn't been mentioned is that the farther your hands are from the stem the more mechanical advantage you have in turning. Risers generally put your hands farther away from the fulcrum (i.e. the stem) as opposed to riding 38mm track drops, especially if you are riding the tarck way with your hands up on top near the stem. Of course, I'm stupid so I might have that wrong.

Dude 100%, I noticed that when I first started riding a bike more seriously a few years ago. That's why I always loved risers/bullhorns.

I am using them for trail riding/long distance where I don't need brakes and can get more power, so no, you aren't right.
I don't think you get more power by having lower drops. You get more aerodynamics. For example, you would want deeper drops if you were going into the wind but not if you were climbing up a hill. Somebody with more knowledge than me, please confirm or disconfirm.

A wait what happened would be me selling my drops, in which I am not. I am using them for trail riding/long distance where I don't need brakes and can get more power, so no, you aren't right. Thanks for your opinion <3

So you are dedicating your newly purchased track drops to "trail riding and long distance"? that is even better :D


Dude 100%, I noticed that when I first started riding a bike more seriously a few years ago. That's why I always loved risers/bullhorns.
So it begs one to wonder why you didnt buy those first? Regardless you are learning a lot, huh?

Apparently, the OP likes learning the hard way.

Seriously.

You didn't listen to us after two threads. I'm not sure I want to help



So you are dedicating your newly purchased track drops to "trail riding and long distance"? that is even better


yep. just watch and enjoy :popcorn:

So you are dedicating your newly purchased track drops to "trail riding and long distance"? that is even better :D


So it begs one to wonder why you didnt buy those first? Regardless you are learning a lot, huh?Well I didn't buy those first because I felt the need for change away from risers/bullhorns. I actually am considering bullhorns again but I don't know if I should/want to go with bullhorns with a drop or not, such as the fyxation rodeo pursuit and such.

Well I didn't buy those first because I felt the need for change away from risers/bullhorns. I actually am considering bullhorns again but I don't know if I should/want to go with bullhorns with a drop or not, such as the fyxation rodeo pursuit and such.

Personally, I don't care for bullhorns with drop in them. I rode with the Nashbar pursuit bars for a few months, but they weren't particularly comfortable. I rode the MASH bullhorns(no drop) for another couple months, and liked those a lot more, but ultimately, I found compact road drops(with or without brake hoods) to be the most comfortable and versatile for road rides.

They look cool though, so if that's priority #1, go with some with lots of drop.

The ones with drop aren't as comfortable near the stem. So naturally, that's what I expect you'll get.

The ones with drop aren't as comfortable near the stem. So naturally, that's what I expect you'll get.

:lol:

I don't think you get more power by having lower drops. You get more aerodynamics. For example, you would want deeper drops if you were going into the wind but not if you were climbing up a hill. Somebody with more knowledge than me, please confirm or disconfirm.

Not necessarily deeper drops, but I like having drops when climbing in general. Not even a question when going into wind.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j55ciDsCvsk/T0Uj5a-ufnI/AAAAAAAADNE/-4T9QMdkRac/s1600/496-ZED.jpg


Sexy. My only issue with it is that, even though the rear wheel is slammed forward, there is a significant gap between the seat tube cutout and rear wheel. I thought that was not supposed to happen. Anyhow, I'm pretty sure that is among the sexiest track bikes I've ever had the opportunity of gazing upon.

wheels do push air around so it might cause more drag to have the wheel tucked into the frame with no where for the air to go

Sexy. My only issue with it is that, even though the rear wheel is slammed forward, there is a significant gap between the seat tube cutout and rear wheel. I thought that was not supposed to happen. Anyhow, I'm pretty sure that is among the sexiest track bikes I've ever had the opportunity of gazing upon.

Track racers use different gear ratios regularly. On a road bike, the rear derailleur takes up the slack in the chain, so the wheel can actually be in a fixed position and as close as you can get it.

On a track bike if a racer went from a 51x14 (where the wheel is slammed up in there) to a 47x14 (which moves the wheel back about 2 inches) that would create lots of slack in the chain.

This is why track racing bikes have long dropouts, to allow for the adjustment of the wheel to take up the slack and tighten the chain.

"Why not use a shorter chain for the 47x14 combination?" you ask...

Because that would be a pain in the butt and very time consuming. Track racers change gears several times during a training or race session. Uninstalling and installing a chain for different gear combinations is simply impractical, and more importantly, unnecessary.

So, yeah, it is actually supposed to happen.

Now, when you have street fixy guys that run the same gear ratio 100% of the time, sure, they can remove chain links (and add half-links) to get that rear wheel right in there for the photo shoot. But, it's simply not practical.

Well I didn't buy those first because I felt the need for change away from risers/bullhorns. I actually am considering bullhorns again but I don't know if I should/want to go with bullhorns with a drop or not, such as the fyxation rodeo pursuit and such.

http://cdn.memegenerator.net/instances/400x/26337648.jpg

Why would someone setup their commuter bike this way?!!

*raises hand*

Oh, I know! I know!

Because I'm a fantastic procrastinator, and I haven't bothered to track down some 31.8mm road drops yet.

(Well, and, I split my commuting between my FG with tarck drops and my Cross Check with proper road bars, so I can put it off for, at least, one more day...)

http://cdn.memegenerator.net/instances/400x/26337648.jpg

Hey! I've done that.:(

Yes, you have.

I shouldn't talk. I switch bars on my BK more often than I change my shirt.

Yes, you have.

I shouldn't talk. I switch bars on my BK more often than I change my shirt.

Is the BK the favorite?

Is the BK the favorite?


Have you ****ing seen it?

Have you ****ing seen it?

lol, yes I have. I've also seen his Dodici. Thats why I asked.

I don't know I think people just need to figure out what works I've gone through 2 different sets of Bullhorns, a set of Track Drops and a set of Compact drops before settling on a Set of risers. I think everyone needs to "try" track drops just so they understand what they do to your body. So try out lots of bars just don't buy premium parts until you know exactly what you want

I agree with that. Adjust yourself on what you've got to see what might feel better, find something cheap (or free) to try out until you've got it dialed in. I like the bullhorns I sliced out of some cheap drop bars quite a bit. Between them and the stem they make the steering feel more responsive, let me stretch out a little, and there is actually something to grab onto where I always find my hands on drops.

Track racers change gears several times during a training or race session. Uninstalling and installing a chain for different gear combinations is simply impractical, and more importantly, unnecessary.


That sounds like a big PITA already.

Track racers use different gear ratios regularly. On a road bike, the rear derailleur takes up the slack in the chain, so the wheel can actually be in a fixed position and as close as you can get it.

On a track bike if a racer went from a 51x14 (where the wheel is slammed up in there) to a 47x14 (which moves the wheel back about 2 inches) that would create lots of slack in the chain.

This is why track racing bikes have long dropouts, to allow for the adjustment of the wheel to take up the slack and tighten the chain.

"Why not use a shorter chain for the 47x14 combination?" you ask...

Because that would be a pain in the butt and very time consuming. Track racers change gears several times during a training or race session. Uninstalling and installing a chain for different gear combinations is simply impractical, and more importantly, unnecessary.

So, yeah, it is actually supposed to happen.

Now, when you have street fixy guys that run the same gear ratio 100% of the time, sure, they can remove chain links (and add half-links) to get that rear wheel right in there for the photo shoot. But, it's simply not practical.

Ah, ok. That all makes sense. However, if they're going to carry a few chainrings and cogs/rear wheels to swap ratios, why not carry two or three extra chains of extra length so that it can always be slammed? Does having it tucked not matter or create a bad wind situation as Hairnet has suggested? I get that swapping chains is impractical, but when you're already changing the rest of the drivetrain, why not do that too, just to keep the aerodynamics the same?

That would completely defeat the purpose of a track dropout, wouldn't it?

Ah, ok. That all makes sense.


Then...


However, if they're going to carry a few chainrings and cogs/rear wheels to swap ratios, why not carry two or three extra chains of extra length so that it can always be slammed? Does having it tucked not matter or create a bad wind situation as Hairnet has suggested? I get that swapping chains is impractical, but when you're already changing the rest of the drivetrain, why not do that too, just to keep the aerodynamics the same?

Reread my post.

Being slammed isn't a big deal at all.

There is a big gap between the top tube and the bottom bracket that no one is complaining about.


That would completely defeat the purpose of a track dropout, wouldn't it?

Yes.

Its funny how this forum reads my mind sometimes. I've got track drops on my bike and they definitely get uncomfortable on longer rides. I find myself "out" of them a lot and just loosely hanging on near where my stem clamps onto them. I've been debating a set of risers for a while but I might just throw some hoods/levers on my current drops and see if I like that better. Seems like they would be a better trade-off for comfort/"aero" than risers.

There are other kinds of bars besides track drops and risers.

There are other kinds of bars besides track drops and risers.

Noted, I was sort of taking the two ends of the spectrum. Thinking out loud so-to-speak.

In that case, track drops with hoods will look goofy as hell and make no sense. You can throw bar-ends on risers for an extra hand position, which is one of my favorite setups. Or just go with road drops and hoods for the tried/true. Also, your arms bend. How low do you really need to get for aero benefits?

Track drops are ideal for the track, while road drops are perfect for the road. Go figure.

http://gifsoup.com/webroot/animatedgifs/99189_o.gif

Track drops are ideal for the track, while road drops are perfect for the road. Go figure.

no meme with this Scrodizmmmm?

There are other kinds of bars besides track drops and risers.

I thought that was a question, the answer for which is NO if you want to keep your street cred

no meme with this Scrodizmmmm?

edited.

Then...



Reread my post.

Being slammed isn't a big deal at all.

There is a big gap between the top tube and the bottom bracket that no one is complaining about.



Yes.

With a sober reread, it makes more sense. Disregard my last post.

OP, get some damned road drops and be done with it.

What the OP will see:


OP, get whatever looks dope. You're the man!