Touring - Light but still good lock

Credit card touring in Western Europe next summer so I can get the bike inside every night, but for daytime when I'm exploring the cities I would like to get a lightweight lock that will keep the most thiefs away. For example if I go to the museums, beach or shopping malls etc and I'm away for few hours. I've been looking for these locks:

http://www.abus.com/eng/Mobile-Security/Bike-safety-and-security/Locks/Folding-locks

This model in particular: http://www.abus.com/eng/Mobile-Security/Bike-safety-and-security/Locks/Folding-locks/Bordo-Lite-6050

Then there's always the u-locks: http://www.abus.com/eng/Mobile-Security/Bike-safety-and-security/Locks/U-locks

Do you think the 650g folding lock would hold during the daytime if I leave the bike in area with a lot of people passing by so that the thieves don't have time to work on the lock.

It doesn't take long with one of these:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31I81gPqKyL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

I know but I don't think thieves will use that kind of tools in a public area during daytime.

It doesn't take long with one of these: (Picture of an Angle Grinder)

The point of a bike lock is not to make your bike impossible to steal, the point is to make the risks and expenditures outweigh the potential reward. For most tours, I find I'm not far from my bike and make due with a small cable lock. However, I don't tend to go through big cities or high theft areas. If I wanted to lock up my bike so I could take in a museum, one of those Abus locks look like it might do the trick. I'd be more worried about luggage though.

I'd be more worried about luggage though.

Luggage will be on the hotel room :)

I know but I don't think thieves will use that kind of tools in a public area during daytime.

There are videos on YouTube of folks grinding their own bike locks off (lost the key) in mid-day in NYC. Hundreds of people walk by, and not one person says a word or even seems to notice.

Any lock can be defeated. I think a medium size U-lock, with or without supplemental cable / locks is a good choice. Not too heavy to carry, won't break immediately if attacked by an amateur (crackheads), and the lock even has an alternative use (defensive weapon).

Luggage will be on the hotel room :)

I don't usually visit major metro areas when on tour, but if I did I might leave the bike in the room with the luggage. Walking and using public transit works very well in most bigger cities and some smaller ones.

I don't usually visit major metro areas when on tour, but if I did I might leave the bike in the room with the luggage. Walking and using public transit works very well in most bigger cities and some smaller ones.

You can see like 10 times more if you use bike. Walking takes so much time and in big cities you end up using metro a lot. I rather drive than go underground. It's also way easier to explore the surroundings of the city with bike. Exploring the cities is the main reasons I will take the bike with me. It's even more important reason than using the bike to travel from city to city since I plan to take a bus if the distance from city to city is too long to save time and money.

I know but I don't think thieves will use that kind of tools in a public area during daytime.

Sadly that may not be the case.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGttmR2DTY8

But you may be right.

The point of a bike lock is not to make your bike impossible to steal

I agree with your statement. I too use a cable lock (weight = 14 ounces) and would never trust it in a city. My point is why carry a 23 ounce lock that just as insecure, in that environment.

I agree with your statement. I too use a cable lock (weight = 14 ounces) and would never trust it in a city. My point is why carry a 23 ounce lock that just as insecure, in that environment.

I would disagree that a cable lock is just as insecure as a u-lock. I think that the risk of taking an angle grinder to something in public is greater than the risk of taking a bolt cutter to something, or at least that the perceived risk is higher. I don't have any actual data, but that's because I don't think actual data exists on the perceived risks of bike theft.

I think the best strategy is to make your bike look really secure; the point after all is to deter bike thieves and make them choose a new target, so it doesn't matter how secure it actually is.

Maybe a giant Kyrptonite style (http://www.kryptonitelock.com/Pages/ProductInformation.aspx?PNumber=999492) chain, but make it out of aluminum, so it's nice and light. If someone actually tries to cut it, you've already lost.

I always bring the bike in the hotel room with me. Usually i just camp when touring however.

You can see like 10 times more if you use bike. Walking takes so much time and in big cities you end up using metro a lot. I rather drive than go underground. It's also way easier to explore the surroundings of the city with bike. Exploring the cities is the main reasons I will take the bike with me. It's even more important reason than using the bike to travel from city to city since I plan to take a bus if the distance from city to city is too long to save time and money.

In that case I'd advise a big heavy U Lock.

Looks cool, so does the bike showing in the locks picture. Anyone know what bike that is?

In that case I'd advise a big heavy U Lock.

I still need something for the other tire and I think it would be way too much weight in total if I get u-lock, something over 2kg.

What I was thinking was this on one end of the bike:

http://www.abus.com/eng/Mobile-Security/Bike-safety-and-security/Locks/Folding-locks/Bordo-Lite-6050

And one of these to the other end:

http://www.abus.com/eng/Mobile-Security/Bike-safety-and-security/Locks/Cable-locks/Millennio-894 (15mm tight cable, 85cm long [Kryptonite cable is 10mm])
http://www.abus.com/eng/Mobile-Security/Bike-safety-and-security/Locks/Coil-cable-locks/Millennio-895 (10mm tight cable, 185cm long)

The total weight would be only 1,2-1,3kg depending which cable lock I would choose. I was thinking first to get two of those Bordo folding locks, but maybe it's better to have two different kind of locks? Maybe the shorter but tighter 15mm cable lock would be better if I search for a place where I can lock the bike from front and back. I would save 150g too.

Another lock option might be the TiGR lock (http://tigrlock.com/) which also claims rather high security. Has the advantage of storing compactly along the bike's top tube, relatively light weight, and locks both wheels plus the frame. Disadvantages include slightly longer time to lock/unlock the bike, limited to locking to fairly thin poles, and high price.

I'd go with a with an Abus frame lock (http://www.abus.com/eng/Mobile-Security/Bike-safety-and-security/Locks/Frame-locks/Amparo-4850-Black) with the supplementary 6mm security chain (http://www.abus.com/eng/Mobile-Security/Bike-safety-and-security/Locks/Frame-locks/Protectus-5000-Chain)

Frame locks are great!



and a Bordo or a light U-lock for the front wheel/frame. (alloy U-locks are available, look very solid)

you will be able to secure the frame twice, and both wheels, when high security was needed.

solid.

reasonably lightweight, and the framelock leaves the bike ready to be secured in an instant for quick trips off the bike.

Luggage will be on the hotel room

might be a good idea to have the bike there too, and take public transportation to the museums.
so your bike is not exposed to possible stripping or theft.
rent a bike for sightseeing if you get off and do much stuff that the bike is on the street..


I've passed on some tourist high spots along the way, because of insecurity.


I brought an armored cable lock , and some extra double loop cable.
one made up from hardware stores, and 10 feet long, so I can use tyrees and picnic tables.

link locks may do but for the limited ability to reach
around stuff, so in town, when its suitable, its fine, but for other places
I Also have a Chain lock. it combines a key lock..
nylon cover , being red, It got dirty from chain on bike, so tape ,
zip tie, and an old innertube as another sleeve covered that..
ala http://www.abus.com/eng/Mobile-Security/Bike-safety-and-security/Locks/Lock-chain-combination/1500

If you don't have a bike yet, maybe a folding bike would a better option. Then you could bring the compacted bike into restaurants and museums with you, or at least see if you could store it inside the security office, off the street. Most any lock can be broken within a couple minutes.

I have the Abus Granit Futura, a lighter U-lock, it only weighs a little over a hundred grammes more than the other Abus locks you considered. Not quite as easy to use as its bigger siblings but very nice around town.
http://www.abus.com/eng/Mobile-Security/Bike-safety-and-security/Locks/U-locks/Granit-Futura-64

I have the Abus Granit Futura, a lighter U-lock, it only weighs a little over a hundred grammes more than the other Abus locks you considered. Not quite as easy to use as its bigger siblings but very nice around town.
http://www.abus.com/eng/Mobile-Security/Bike-safety-and-security/Locks/U-locks/Granit-Futura-64
That is not big enough to be able to lock both tire and frame...

If you don't have a bike yet, maybe a folding bike would a better option. Then you could bring the compacted bike into restaurants and museums with you, or at least see if you could store it inside the security office, off the street. Most any lock can be broken within a couple minutes.

Just ordered the bike today. I would never buy folding bike. I will ask from all places I go if I can take my bike inside and if I can't and there isn't good place to leave the bike then I visit the place next day without my bike.

That is not big enough to be able to lock both tire and frame...

With a bit of lifting and tweaking it will lock my frame and front wheel to railings and fences. Does not work well with MTB's though.

I'd recommend Abus U-Mini or Kryptonite Evolution Mini + pitlocks + a lightweight cable. But i would not leave the bike in front of the cinema at night, would rather take a walk or look for a better parking spot. A good parking spot is where I can lock it so that it is difficult for a thief to get the lock with a grinder or to use picks. A spot against the wall, next to other bikes, etc.

I second Bek's suggestion. Get a frame mounted lock for the rear wheel (Abus I think makes one, and Axa/Basta) and some method of attaching your bike to something solid, preferrably with a separate lock. If you think the risk is low, cable might achieve that, if you want more security, use a chain and/or a small U-lock.

The Axa Defender (http://www.axacompany.com/EE/en/axasite/products) frame lock can be combined with a plug in cable. This might be a good lightweight option. Nothing prevents you from running a cable or chain by some other manufacturer through the lock either. The problem with using just one lock for everything is, the thief only has to defeat that one lock and they can ride away. If you have a separate lock for the chain/cable, it'll make it less attractive for the thief.

Finally, no matter how much locking hardware you haul around, if a determined pro thief wants your bike, they have the means to take it.

--J

Looked into the Axa Defender a bit more, and I think damme should consider it. They offer a plug-in chain for it, and the beauty of the plug-in idea seems to be, it uses a secondary lock mechanism. Breaking the rear wheel lock will not open the plug-in chain, and vice versa.

--J

If you really need a lock, the absolute minimum in an urban environment is something rated *** by The ART Foundation:


http://www.stichtingart.nl/sloten_resultaat.asp


The frame locks, with or without auxiliary chains or cables, are rated **

So, Kryptonite Evolution Series 4, ABUS Granit X Plus 54, etc.. Beyond that you have to go to the really stupendously heavy, 16-18mm shackle locks which wouldn't be overkill depending on location, but who wants to carry that much steel around all the time?

You are not saving any weight using a frame lock and accessory chain set up.

JMO

YMMV

I think what I need is something that can't be cut with big bolt cutters. From that point on it doesn't matter what you use because if the thief has angle grinder it's 1 minute and any lock is open.

I know but I don't think thieves will use that kind of tools in a public area during daytime.

Wrong, they do! and in increasing numbers especially in large cities. Another tool of the thief slowly coming to vogue here is picking, picking is cool because it simply looks like the guy is having a wee bit of trouble with his key and the lock, but in about 60 seconds or so he finally triumphs over the "stubborn" lock.

The angle grinder takes about 10 to 15, maybe 60 seconds if your using one of those 4 pound chains, but not normally 60 seconds. The Angle grinder is making mincemeat out of locks owners of Harley Davidson's are using. A friend of mine had his Harley stolen that he locked inside his garage with a 20 pound chain that was bolted to the floor. First they inserted a wedge into the center of the top of the garage door, reached in with a coat hanger and grabbed the emergency release cord and unlocked the garage door. Then they used an angle grinder and cut that chain nice and clean. Insurance covered the loss.

If your that concerned about loss of your bike to theft then buy a used heap or a Walmart bike and lock that up instead.

If your still gungho about riding your one and only nice bike and want the lightest lock on the market then this is it: http://www.amazon.com/TiGr-Lock-titanium-bicycle-package/dp/B008E09D2Y

If your that concerned about loss of your bike to theft then buy a used heap or a Walmart bike and lock that up instead.

Actually it doesn't even have to be a heap. A nice older bike can be a pretty nice ride with a lot less invested. The problem for me is that I am probably more attached to my older bikes for some reason and that might trump cash value wrt the pain I would experience at their loss. My 1990-ish Cannondales are dearer to my heart than my new high tech wonder, they would be less likely to be stolen though.

Actually it doesn't even have to be a heap. A nice older bike can be a pretty nice ride with a lot less invested. The problem for me is that I am probably more attached to my older bikes for some reason and that might trump cash value wrt the pain I would experience at their loss. My 1990-ish Cannondales are dearer to my heart than my new high tech wonder, they would be less likely to be stolen though.

Me too! If I was concerned though about one of my vintage jobs getting stolen because I had to use it to commute I would find a beater for under $100 and ride it. When I say beater I don't mean something that looks like it's gone through the tsumami from Japan and washed up onto the beach of the state Washington!!! But a decent but low end bike.

Well . . . Having just come back from a tour in Europe I have to say that the most important thing on that tour besides my health was my bike. No bike, no tour. Not just the bike gone, all gone. And for what? What's the huge thing that justifies risking the entire tour? Good grief, take public transportation. Walk. I walked for miles. You might even have fun or meet fun people. I loved taking public transport. Even the posters are cool, you can learn some language from them. If you're so blase that you can't find joy everywhere, stay home. You won't find it anywhere.

I got way sidetracked. I'm in several conversations about commuting on bikes and forgot this one is about touring. Geez...sorry!! If the poster is touring then you don't want to take heap due to the high potential for mechanical problems, you would have to take a decent bike. So in that case you need locks IF your going to be parking the bike out of eyeshot. Only question is what kind, there are plenty of locks, some cheap some expensive, just depends on how good of a lock you think you need. The lightest lock is the one I posted earlier made of Titanium but it's expensive at around $163, not sure if it's the best but it is lightweight, and stores on the frame taking up very little space.

Well . . . Having just come back from a tour in Europe I have to say that the most important thing on that tour besides my health was my bike. No bike, no tour. Not just the bike gone, all gone. And for what? What's the huge thing that justifies risking the entire tour?
The OP is just talking about leaving the bike out, not the bike and all gear. A tour doesn't not necessarily have to end even if the bike walks off. That might be the case with a short tour, but on a long tour it would only be a few days setback at most for me. It probably helps that I carry little enough gear that I could strap it on any bike, but still I think most of us could continue with only a short delay. Even if all my get walked I could continue with a few hundred in new gear and a beater bike or even a Walmart bike if it came to that.


Good grief, take public transportation. Walk. I walked for miles. You might even have fun or meet fun people. I loved taking public transport. Even the posters are cool, you can learn some language from them.

On this I agree. I do not tend visit large cities on tour, but when I do visit large cities I enjoy using the public transit systems. That said The OP has expressed an unwillingness to do that so I guess that option is off the table for them.


If you're so blase that you can't find joy everywhere, stay home. You won't find it anywhere.

Not sure what this has to do with how you get around town on tour. I must be missing something here. Care to elaborate?

It's a bike forum. I wouldn't expect so many people recommending leaving the bike behind and walking.

I have a ring lock on my rear wheel. During the week I leave my U-lock on the bike rack at work, and use a cable through my ring lock for any stops between work and home. If I were going downtown or leaving my bike in a place I couldn't see it for an extended time, I'd take the U-lock with me.

When I'm traveling, if I'm staying out of the cities, I use the same method: ring lock plus cable. But if I'm going through some cities, I take the U-lock. I really like the Abus + cable idea, and I will probably upgrade my ring lock to that at some point. Ring lock with a cable keeps the rear wheel secure. A long enough cable will keep the front wheel secure. But if I'm worried about security, I use a U-lock on the front, and the cable/ring lock for the front and rear. Also my rear wheel is a bolt on, and a PITA to remove, so I feel pretty secure about that one.

So I like the ring lock/cable combo for touring because it's easy and fairly light. But in heavily populated areas, I would take the same precautions when touring as I do when commuting, maybe even more precautions, because if someone runs off with my bike close to home, I can still get home. I would get the lightest U-lock you feel comfortable with and use it along with a cable lock. As has been said, any lock can be cut, but two completely different locks can make your bike a much less appealing target. I have also wanted to get a more secure skewer for the front wheel. Quick release is great for changing flats or transporting the bike, but if you're worried about security, I'd rather carry the extra tool and worry less about losing a wheel.

Consider bike stripping .. as well as taking the whole thing..

I went into a public Loo in Copenhagen. took a quick Wizz,
when I came out someone was stripping a bolt in working on stealing my rear brakes..

I would not want to give them more time, like going into a big Museum.

Consider bike stripping .. as well as taking the whole thing..

I went into a public Loo in Copenhagen. took a quick Wizz,
when I came out someone was stripping a bolt in working on stealing my rear brakes..

I would not want to give them more time, like going into a big Museum.

If I saw someone doing that I would have acted like the bike wasn't mine and pretend not to pay much attention then grab the arsehole suddenly and unexpecting to him and smack his head a few times into the pavement or wall or foot.

might be a good idea to have the bike there too, and take public transportation to the museums.
so your bike is not exposed to possible stripping or theft.
rent a bike for sightseeing if you get off and do much stuff that the bike is on the street..


I've passed on some tourist high spots along the way, because of insecurity.

+1 on leaving bike in room.
When we tour and make quick stops in what looks like a "theft safe" area, I use a basic cable lock to prevent the random joy ride (we tour with a tandem). When in a city, we'll tour on bike but not stop unless we can bring the bike inside, otherwise its public transit/taxi from the hotel. Once we even rented a car for the flexibility it provided. Nothing is 100% safe, not even your hotel room, ultimately its a risk-reward decision. Personally I'd be a nervous wreck if I relied on a lock while in a museum and it would spoil my visit.

Practically speaking, we take a 5/16" X 8' (I think) combination cable lock. In a campground, we take the front wheel off and pass the cable through everything and around a tree. In a hotel or campground bike storage room, we lock the bike as best we can. For cafe or restaurant meals, we don't stop unless we will be able to see the bike the whole time. Whenever possible, and it's possible more often than hotels would like to admit, we bring the bike to our room. We do have two advantages: A loaded tandem is intimidating to the casual ner-do-well. Not something you hop onto and go, especially when you can't tell how to take the brake off. We are two, so always someone to watch the bike if needed.

http://superherocostumess.com/tigr-lock-titanium-bicycle-lock-package-with-0-75-wide-bow-24-long/

http://www.powersportsplace.com/parts/ong-5021?gclid=CImbtIbw1bICFcZlOgodznAA8A

The 2 coolest ones I can think of. I don't know much about them. As I said before, i pretty much take my bike right into the hotel with me.

Practically speaking, we take a 5/16" X 8' (I think) combination cable lock. In a campground, we take the front wheel off and pass the cable through everything and around a tree. In a hotel or campground bike storage room, we lock the bike as best we can. For cafe or restaurant meals, we don't stop unless we will be able to see the bike the whole time. Whenever possible, and it's possible more often than hotels would like to admit, we bring the bike to our room. We do have two advantages: A loaded tandem is intimidating to the casual ner-do-well. Not something you hop onto and go, especially when you can't tell how to take the brake off. We are two, so always someone to watch the bike if needed.

This is how I lock my bike up at camp sites. I use a cable lock but I don't need to remove the wheel because the cable I use is long enough to wrap around all the wheels and a small tree (not a real small tree that could be cut) or pole. But that's only for night time security, if I go to a lake to do some fishing I take the bike with me unless I can see the bike from the lake.

If I go to a restaurant I simply park the bike in front of a window where I can sit and watch the bike while I eat and not even bother locking it.

There is a weird little way you can lock your bike that would frustrate a would be thief, this method would still allows a thief to pickup the bike and carry it away but their not going ride it away, simply take a pad lock and but the shackle through the opening of the front gear ring and then over the top of the gear/chain and lock. A thief can't pedal the bike. It's light protection but effective.

a ring lock with keeper and a U-lock would give a rider a great deal of variety in locking methods, two secure locks, a way to secure both wheels and the frame as needed.

short jaunt off the bike, ring lock - easy pleasy.

five minutes at the post office, Ring Lock and keeper chain, or U-lock.

two hours at the museum, U-lock AND ring lock with keeper.

overnight at campsite, Ring/keeper secured to the picnic table or tree.

There's no getting around the great versatility of a ring lock on a touring bike adding to peace of mind on all those short stops you CAN'T keep an eye on the bike - bathroom stops, etc.

And the new plug-in keeper chains from AXA look to be pretty stout 6-mm case hardened links? schweet.

And the new plug-in keeper chains from AXA look to be pretty stout 6-mm case hardened links? schweet.

That's no more effective then just using a simple padlock and lock the chainring like I mentioned, and a pad lock is a lot less money. I use one of those Abus Disc locks, I use one lock for both the cable then use if to lock the chainring if need be when I can't use the cable.

Cables are easy to cut so don't expect to use a cable and think all is good, it's just a deterrent. Problem with todays world is battery powered angle grinders will cut any lock, no matter how much you spent for that lock, in less then 30 seconds. So if your out in the middle of some isolated area, anyone can come up to your lock bike while your out hiking or fishing and cut that lock fast. Fortunately most campgrounds have very little theft going on so an event like that would be once in a 10,000 lifetimes. I leave my camping gear laying all around and be gone for hours and never had anything stolen. But you don't want to be foolish either.

This would be a great set up, just not very light.

Personally, I like the small mini U's from Kryptonite and ABUS, but it is possible to break them with a big enough set of bolt cutters.

Lightness at the expense of security isn't much of a trade off if you need to leave the bike for any great length of time in a spot where there is a significant risk of theft by thieves who carry that sort of thing though.

Still, Lightest=ABUS Futura 64.

Under 2lbs. Very small opening, like 3X6 inches, so almost impossible to bottle jack, but then there are those big bolt cutters.

More versatile=Kryptonite Mini Evolution 5/7/9.

3.25" wide by either 5", 7", 9" so you can get just the length you need.

I think the 9" is underrated as long as you make sure to fill up the shackle with frame, tire, cranks, or whatever you are locking up to.

It gives you a better chance of finding something to lock up to at the price of a bit more weight, but still under 3lbs.

I think the steel in the Kryptonite Mini's is a bit tougher than what ABUS uses in the Futura 64 (in fairness to reduce weight) but a 13mm shackle is not a 16mm-18mm shackle.

I'd be happier with a higher rated lock weighing under 4lbs. personally, but if you want light.. Futura 64.



a ring lock with keeper and a U-lock would give a rider a great deal of variety in locking methods, two secure locks, a way to secure both wheels and the frame as needed.

short jaunt off the bike, ring lock - easy pleasy.

five minutes at the post office, Ring Lock and keeper chain, or U-lock.

two hours at the museum, U-lock AND ring lock with keeper.

overnight at campsite, Ring/keeper secured to the picnic table or tree.

There's no getting around the great versatility of a ring lock on a touring bike adding to peace of mind on all those short stops you CAN'T keep an eye on the bike - bathroom stops, etc.

And the new plug-in keeper chains from AXA look to be pretty stout 6-mm case hardened links? schweet.

That's no more effective then just using a simple padlock and lock the chainring like I mentioned, and a pad lock is a lot less money. I use one of those Abus Disc locks, I use one lock for both the cable then use if to lock the chainring if need be when I can't use the cable.



you're missing the largest advantage to a ring lock- convenience - and the keeper chain lets you secure the bike to an object. way more versatile than a padlock in a chainring. duh.

you're missing the largest advantage to a ring lock- convenience - and the keeper chain lets you secure the bike to an object. way more versatile than a padlock in a chainring. duh.

Assuming your talking about this: http://velo-orange.blogspot.com/2009/01/ring-locks-are-here.html then your'er missing the point, why spend $25 to $55 depending on the model instead of just $12 when both would work just as well? DUH! And with the lock ring you can't use the lock to thread a cable through to lock it to a pole. That's a double DUH DUH!!

Assuming your talking about this: http://velo-orange.blogspot.com/2009/01/ring-locks-are-here.html then your'er missing the point, why spend $25 to $55 depending on the model instead of just $12 when both would work just as well? DUH! And with the lock ring you can't use the lock to thread a cable through to lock it to a pole. That's a double DUH DUH!!

No. A padlock is cheaper, yes. But the ring lock under discussion have a cable that works with it. But there's no reason you can't just feed the loop of any cable through the ring when you close it. I do it all the time.

+1 for multiple locks -- I use a small Evolution U-lock on the frame, combined with a heavy cable lock looped through the wheels and around the handlebars. Never had any problems in SF, and there's a lot of bike theft here.

I used to just use a larger U lock on the frame and rear wheel... I came back to the bike stripped of everything other than the frame and rear wheel.

Those Abus folding locks are not necessarily light weight, but I met a guy with a couple of them on his bike riding the metro in Los Angeles. He let me check them out and I was impressed with them. Certainly as much of a deterrent as a U-lock.

But the ring lock under discussion have a cable that works with it. But there's no reason you can't just feed the loop of any cable through the ring when you close it. I do it all the time.The beauty of the ring lock I earlier linked to is, the optional cable is locked with a separate lock mechanism, not with the ring. Two locks to break.