Touring - Help with touring bike build

I've recently got myself a Nashbar aluminum touring frame (all the info I could find is here, http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_511239_-1___ ) and plan on building it up this fall/winter to start touring on it this spring. I would like help picking out components. I'll be starting on the front end (fork, headset, handlebar, ect.) and working my way backwards.

Just so you all know I'm also on a shoestring budget and will be getting these parts piecemeal. But, I would like to get at least half decent components.

Thanks for your input in advance.
Oh btw, I already got a rear rack and panns.

There have been several builds done on that bike here, or at least one long one. Can't recall whether these were done with the earlier Nashbar, frame, it changed a few years back. One of the changes was that the fork became a separate item. Your best bet could be the fork they sell for it. Tange also makes cheap touring forks that seem excellent. I also have the metal cross fork Nashbar sells, it is OK/good, but it does not have mid fork BOs for racks. Even if you don't want them, you may want them later, or the person you sell to may want them.


Other than that, there are dozens of frame build out threads here in general, and specifically 5 years back or so, the only LHTs you could get were bare frames, or the QBP version that I never recall anyone using. So you can find dozens of threads.

Since your objective is low cost, there isn't much one can say, you will have to find stuff as you go. You might want to bake in some premium parts from the start, like a leather saddle is non-negotiable for me. Obviously that will vary for others.

As you choose forks, remember they have to be the same crown height, within a few mm as your specified fork.

Drop touring bikes are not that fancy. They mostly live on a mix of the cheaper road and MTB parts. Wheels are important, but they do not have to terribly expensive, they need to be smart though. One part that can be a surprise are the shifters, brifters are expensive, but the preferred bar ends can be equally crazy. One can use some cheap thumbies, but I am not happy with those. Flat bars make the shifter and brake issues easier, but are not comfortable for me on all day rides, day after day.

Another thing you have to look out for are the brakes. There are a bunch of issues that are regularly discussed, but one more that can sneak up on you is the width of your fork. Some touring forks even on drops bikes, take after MTB dimensions, and others are more road like. With Cantis these may require different brakes, so don't buy them before you see your fork. If you can find some pics of other bikes that are identical to yours, and the brakes that work on them, then just copy those. It is the geometry not the brand that matters. With something like the LHT you can look at the complete model for inspiration.

A more common brake problem is ensuring the levers you want to use, will work with the brakes. V brakes and road levers need to be compatible, for example.

I bought the Nashbar aluminum touring frame back when the fork was included. Since I didn't need a front brake or panniers, I installed Nashbar's carbon cyclocross fork (http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_175019_-1___202441) along with an Avid BB7 Road disc brake. The bike steers a bit quicker than it did with the stock fork, but it still very stable. If you need front racks and panniers, then the matching Nashbar fork is probably your best (and cheapest) bet.

Headsets are all about the same these days. As long as you're not planning to ride the bike across the bottom of a salt-water ocean or lake, just about anything will work. I ended up with a Cane Creek S-3 because I found one for a great sale price.

Handlebars are a very personal choice. I love the 3T Ergosum (http://www.3tcycling.com/roadbars/ergosum) drop bars and have the aluminum version on all my road bikes. The FSA Omega Compact has a similar bend and is quite a bit cheaper.

For stems, I'm a big fan of Specialized's shim-adjustable models (ex: the Comp Multi-Stem (http://www.specialized.com/us/en/ftb/components/road-stems/comp-multi-stem)). I managed to break two cheap adjustable stems by making too many (read: 3-4) adjustments. The Specialized stem offers a reasonable number of adjustments, it's rock solid, and light-weight. I'm surprised more people don't use them...

Have you looked at other build lists by product managers for branded touring bikes
for ideas about the available stuff.. and approaches..
discuss what goals, trips, planned.. you need to do some thinking on this..

look at prior posts..

mountain bike drivetrains, are popular on loaded touring setups,
The ultralight packer types go with Road bike drivetrains , for speed.
knock off 5~600 miles in a week..

Thanks for the ideas guys (and gals if any) fietbob, I havn't done that just yet but will. Which posts would you suggest too? Also, where would a build list be anyways around the forum? I've been having a hard time finding any.

stem: jenson has easton stems on sale for 2 and 3 dollars. Old stock but still good stems
handlebar: bike co-op or dimension (I have the shallow reach flat top bar. It's fantastic) You want a lot of hand positions, but a handlebar is a very personal item, It can change the entire feel of the bike

hubs: lx - best bang for your buck
rims: alex adventurer
spokes: dt swiss

Shifters: rivendell silver - cheap and very nice. Assuming you don't want brifters or bar ends.
along with that I'd say cane creek levers. WAY better than the tektro ones. They're nice and wide.

saddle: b17 I wouldn't skimp here, but that's just me
seatpost: unicycle.com kris holm 2 bolt rail mount. Should be 12 bucks if it's still on sale. I have an extra if it isn't, not sure where you are though.

Just a few thoughts. Not trying to say they are right, just my perspective.

stem: jenson has easton stems on sale for 2 and 3 dollars. Old stock but still good stems
handlebar: bike co-op or dimension (I have the shallow reach flat top bar. It's fantastic) You want a lot of hand positions, but a handlebar is a very personal item, It can change the entire feel of the bike

hubs: lx - best bang for your buck
rims: alex adventurer
spokes: dt swiss

Shifters: rivendell silver - cheap and very nice. Assuming you don't want brifters or bar ends.
along with that I'd say cane creek levers. WAY better than the tektro ones. They're nice and wide.

saddle: b17 I wouldn't skimp here, but that's just me
seatpost: unicycle.com kris holm 2 bolt rail mount. Should be 12 bucks if it's still on sale. I have an extra if it isn't, not sure where you are though.

Just a few thoughts. Not trying to say they are right, just my perspective.

thanks for all the suggestions, in regards to those shifters. which ones you talking about? I found thumb and downtube shifters made by Silver. the other things are still on sale too. thanks for the offer of that seatpost.
I will prolly have to wait till later this month to start getting things. Looks like I'll be getting that Nashbar fork to start.
thanks again for the ideas.

thanks for all the suggestions, in regards to those shifters. which ones you talking about? I found thumb and downtube shifters made by Silver. the other things are still on sale too. thanks for the offer of that seatpost.
I will prolly have to wait till later this month to start getting things. Looks like I'll be getting that Nashbar fork to start.
thanks again for the ideas.

I have the downtube ones. Partially a price thing, partially vanity, and partially functionality.

I have the downtube ones. Partially a price thing, partially vanity, and partially functionality.
ah coolness

I think I'm gonna get either flats, or I'd like to test out some trekking bar. What's your opinion of trekking handlebars?
I'm currently going through all the things I'll need for this build and making a shopping list.

What's your opinion of trekking handlebars?

Personally, I've never seen the need for them. I've never had a problem with regular drop handlebars, so that's what I continue to use. Trekking bars will limit the brake and shifter levers you can use, so be aware of that if you decide to go with them.

I'll have to goto my LBS soon to find out if they carry em' and see how they feel. I am used to flats w/ bar ends on my old bike.

What's your opinion of trekking handlebars?

I'm fine with the 2 types I use .. the bikes have Mountain bike brake levers
one has hydraulic brakes, and The Rohloff grip shifters..
that wont fit on a bar that is bigger than 22.2mm..

my setup the trekking bars are relatively flat, and I often use an open palm
laying across the ends, and not so much a grip like the baseball bat will
fly out of my hands , if I relax.

What's your opinion of trekking handlebars?

I have them on my tandem, but I can't stand straight bars, even with bar-ends. They're nice and wide, and offer enough different hand positions.

draig, I suggest for a low cost build:
1) Buy the Nashbar touring fork.
2) Look at Harris Cyclery's budget hybrid wheelset (I use it and it's perfectly fine.)
3) Cane Creek and AHeadset are headsets I trust with 1 1/8" frames.
4) Forte Gotham tires (rebranded Panaracer Pasala) from Performance Bike.
5) Drive train is dependent on how you plan to tour. Generally the heavier you plan to load up the more mountain bike items will be appropriate. Shimano Acera parts can be found on e-bay and at Loose Screws.

Brad

draig, I suggest for a low cost build:
1) Buy the Nashbar touring fork.
2) Look at Harris Cyclery's budget hybrid wheelset (I use it and it's perfectly fine.)
3) Cane Creek and AHeadset are headsets I trust with 1 1/8" frames.
4) Forte Gotham tires (rebranded Panaracer Pasala) from Performance Bike.
5) Drive train is dependent on how you plan to tour. Generally the heavier you plan to load up the more mountain bike items will be appropriate. Shimano Acera parts can be found on e-bay and at Loose Screws.

Brad

Actually, I got a set of 700 x 32c Nimbus from a freecycler just a few days ago. So I now got tires. no idea how good they are but their the right size and they do have puncture protection (call flak jacket on the tire)

As for the headset I have a Canecreek IS-3 on my list for that, as for drive train, I do plan on going self-contained while touring

I'm liking the looks of that wheelset though.

I do plan on going self-contained while touring

You may consider an MTB drivetrain then, for that 22:34t low gear.

and with Mountain Bike shifters and derailleurs
Trekking Bars are a decent combination

I've been looking around for cranks right now and cassettes but I'm getting myself confused. I know I'd want a tripe crank. Some of them say their only compatible with 10-speed is that the cassette? meaning it would wind up be 30 gears? or would that be a cassette of 5 rings (if they still make those)?

Also, I'm flip/flopping betwenn Sram and Shimano cranks. what's all your experiences with each?

I've used Shimano M730 110-74 cranks since the 80's..

I would not go overboard, 8 speed uses a lot cheaper parts,
and you have to pay for them over and over again as that is what wears with use.

$20 chain or $50 ? and so forth..

Oh btw, I called the LBS' and none of them have butterfly handlebars in stock :(. I guess I'll just get both and try each out. I'm also kinda thinking of doing a set up like one I found on crazy guy on a bike's site.
Url is it http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page/?o=1&page_id=148091&v=8c
that looks very useful to me. especially with the straight handlebar and secondary stem below.

draigg, Nashbar has these trekking bars at a good price for a trial run: http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_175533_-1_200388_200276_200388 . Shimano Acera http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/blevel.jsp?ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474395181679&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302051137 (http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/blevel.jsp?ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474395181679&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302051137 s) is a great value if you're going to buy new. While there isn't alot of cosmetic flash and they're only available in 8S (my preferrence so consider the source) the group has been a workhorse for years benefiting from trickle down enhancements.

Brad

actually Brad, with your suggestion of that wheelset from Harris (which I'll prolly get towards christmas or new years) Its saying that it's Shimano Alivio, not Acera. looks like if I have to go new alivio isn't much more pricewise than Acera.
Oh, and as fiet bob was saying it's less expensive to go with an 8spd cassette, so I am planning on going that way

I'm gonna build up one of these as an all purpose bike. I ordered the frame and fork today and like the OP will be building it up piecemeal.

Nashbar is really lousy on specs. No standover height for example in their geo chart. Also no rear hub spacing nor BB shell width so unless you can share this with me I'll have to wait till I get the frame.

I did find what may be some real value wheels from Tree Fort Bikes http://www.treefortbikes.com/home#navbar=pro___333222373639___113. The paired front is $5 less.

Said bottom bracket is 68mm english if you click on the tab for the frame that reads "Specs" it'll give some of them to you.
And standover isn't just about the frame geo, it also depends on wheel size as well (as far as I know) the size of frame for this one is the one you ordered, it's just in cm and not in. you'll have to do the conversions.

I know the diameter of the BB, what they don't share is the width.

And you are absolutely correct that standover is variable.

I think if you know standover and reach you can make assumptions about overall fit.

I think it was G. Lemond that said "Bikes are somewhat adjustable and human bodies are somewhat adaptable" and I think he means basic fit is really important in order to make the best compromise between adjustable and adaptable.

My last 4 'off the rack' bike purchases taught me how I will tweak a frame. They also taught me the frame is the hardest part to tweak. I'm looking forward to making a bike that fits me from the get go.

Ah, Where would one measure that? soon as I know I could do that for you. since we share the same frame...

If you've got a metric ruler you could tell me the width of the BB shell and the spread of the rear dropouts (inside).

Thanks.

If you've got a metric ruler you could tell me the width of the BB shell and the spread of the rear dropouts (inside).

Thanks.

What is the width measurement though? through or across the shell?

What is the width measurement though? through or across the shell?
Width is in-line with the axle -- for most bikes, it should be either 68 or 73mm.

one last thing, would you want the wheel spacing in cm or mm? cause cm is 13.5 and mm 135.
BB comes out to 68mm

oh, Oh, OH! I measured the wrong thing (doh) one moment I'll get the correct on for the dropout...

Turns out I did measure the right thing. it is 135mm spread for the dropouts

Thanks for the info. You saved me a return with the wheels.

No problem ^^ glad to help ya

Turns out I did measure the right thing. it is 135mm spread for the dropouts

I think the spread is actually 132.5mm. Or at least it was when I bought the frame 2-3 years ago. I've used both road (130mm) and mountain (135mm) hubs with this frame.

GAH! I was gonna order those Dimension Trekking bars later this evening just to find out their discontinued. Guess I'll just have to work with the Nashbar one irregardless

I'm fine with the 2 types I use .. the bikes have Mountain bike brake levers
one has hydraulic brakes, and The Rohloff grip shifters..
that wont fit on a bar that is bigger than 22.2mm..

my setup the trekking bars are relatively flat, and I often use an open palm
laying across the ends, and not so much a grip like the baseball bat will
fly out of my hands , if I relax.

Does it matter what brand I get for trekking bars quality wise?

draig - how far along are you on your build? I would like to see some pictures :)

draig - how far along are you on your build? I would like to see some pictures :)

Not to far actually, I got the frame, tires, stem, and rear rack. I'm gonna have to wait till the end of the month to pick up a fork. I prolly won't be actually putting much on it till later next month.

But, I will post pics as I get stuff put on it.

Not to far actually, I got the frame, tires, stem, and rear rack. I'm gonna have to wait till the end of the month to pick up a fork. I prolly won't be actually putting much on it till later next month.

But, I will post pics as I get stuff put on it.

Sounds good. I built up one of those frames last year and it's a great bike.

Coolness ^^ I can hardly wait to get started. I've been working on my shopping list (disguised as a wishlist on Amazon ;) ) I got all of the required things on that list. I pulled my rear rack off my current bike (i use messanger bags and backpacks more, and will prolly get a trailer for utility use). I'm undecided of putting mirrors on backwards bar ends or helmet mounted rear mirror though... I'm used to both handlebar and helmet rear views (mircycle on my handlebar, Third eye helmet before) oh, the mount on the mirrcycle is in the tube of my handlebar (gotten from amazon I think)

I have another question for people here. I've looked into those Harris built wheels and their presta drilled, my prefference is shraeder drilled. any suggestions for 700c?

You can always buy the Presta wheels and enlarge the hole to fit a Schrader valve. I forget what size drill bit you need, but I'm sure someone here or in the Mechanics forum could tell you.

I have another question for people here. I've looked into those Harris built wheels and their presta drilled, my prefference is shraeder drilled. any suggestions for 700c?

Drilling out the hole is perhaps the best option. Another is to pick up a Schrader/Presta adapter at a bike shop.

Brad

I've been looking around for cranks right now and cassettes but I'm getting myself confused. I know I'd want a tripe crank. Some of them say their only compatible with 10-speed is that the cassette? meaning it would wind up be 30 gears? or would that be a cassette of 5 rings (if they still make those)?

Also, I'm flip/flopping betwenn Sram and Shimano cranks. what's all your experiences with each?

They would not mean that it works with a 5 speed freewheel or cluster, they would be talking about a crankset that has chainrings that are thin enough that they work with the thinner chains that are sold as 10 speed chains.

I am using a Campy 10 speed crankset with an 8 speed Shimano cassette and 8 speed compatible chain. I used some thin washers to account for the thinner chainrings. I think I used Wheels Manufacturing washers (or spacers or shims or whatever you want to call them) instead of the ones at this link however, but that was several years ago so I could be wrong on my source for them.
http://branfordbike.com/itemdetails.cfm?id=808

I can't say with certainty that such washers are appropriate with other manufacturers of cranksets. But if you get a 10 speed crankset from a different manufacturer and it does not seem to work right with a thicker chain, try it.

I have another question for people here. I've looked into those Harris built wheels and their presta drilled, my prefference is shraeder drilled.

you can always buy the Presta wheels and enlarge the hole to fit a Schrader valve.
A tapered hand reamer works fine, ream till your stem fits.

Found drilling has a significant de burring, with a rat-tail file .. to clean up the hole edges.
hand reamer may take less clean-up.

Does it matter what brand I get for trekking bars quality wise?

If you are in the $20 or thereabouts price range,
they are all similar , some are finished ,
Black or Clear anodized, a few dye the anodizing. [vs paint]

ITM and Modolo are Italian Imports , sourcing those in the US
may need direct retail importation from Europe
BBB is a NL company , they have a wholesaler, Bike Mine, in OKC
Your Local shop would need to open an account.

Wall Bike's stock is sold-out , several years ago, I got some Koga ITM. bars from them .

Tourism, that was clarified to me awhile ago, thanks anyways. I now know what I'll be getting drivetrain wise ^^
fietbob, coolness! I won't have to get more tools, I got something that may work as a reamer. and I can get ahold of a file I think for cleanup. I'd rather punch a larger hole than get an adapter.

Also, I was undecided as to the Nashbar trekking ones or the black ones at Harris. I think I'll get Harris though (next month.)

Update too. tomorrow after I put this pay (from day work) on my CC I'll be ordering that Nashbar fork.

Oh btw, fietbob. which way would you suggest I ream from. inside the rim outwards or the other way around?

Inside out is better. At the end of the day, it needs to be clean all around, but any burrs you push out are easier to deal with on the outside, and if you happened to miss something, it would better if it was on the outside.

If you have the right rat tail file you can twist it, even run it in a drill, and it will naturally act like a proper reamer. However, files are hard so do not shatter it, a lot of oil would be a good idea if you run it slowly under power, and wear face protection, etc...

Hey, were are the dang picture. I just got one of the frames at a price that is cheaper than powder coating one of my own builds. I have been without a touring frame, and with a huge pile of parts for too long. I have ogled "this" frame for like 30 years, so it will be fun, and then I will probably pass the frame on. When I get the next build done. I am going to do some serious measurements, and list them in the review section at Nashbar, it is pretty amazing how bad their numbers are. A big one they have always hidden was the BB drop. I finally got that up (it is so high you could run this on 26" wheel if you could run the brakes.) Then they changed the frame, and back to the drawing board. If you are running something other than the 58, you might give some thought to putting up more numbers also. Only takes a few minutes.

Inside out is better. At the end of the day, it needs to be clean all around, but any burrs you push out are easier to deal with on the outside, and if you happened to miss something, it would better if it was on the outside.

If you have the right rat tail file you can twist it, even run it in a drill, and it will naturally act like a proper reamer. However, files are hard so do not shatter it, a lot of oil would be a good idea if you run it slowly under power, and wear face protection, etc...

Hey, were are the dang picture. I just got one of the frames at a price that is cheaper than powder coating one of my own builds. I have been without a touring frame, and with a huge pile of parts for too long. I have ogled "this" frame for like 30 years, so it will be fun, and then I will probably pass the frame on. When I get the next build done. I am going to do some serious measurements, and list them in the review section at Nashbar, it is pretty amazing how bad their numbers are. A big one they have always hidden was the BB drop. I finally got that up (it is so high you could run this on 26" wheel if you could run the brakes.) Then they changed the frame, and back to the drawing board. If you are running something other than the 58, you might give some thought to putting up more numbers also. Only takes a few minutes.

I'm waiting to get some things on the frame to take pictures, like i said before. I'll do so when I get my headset. that way it's more than just loose parts. And I also got the 58 frame, plus I don't know how to measure the things.

Hope your build goes well MassiveD. I ordered my fork yesterday and expect it Thursday. and I'll be ordering that headset tomorrow (don't know when it'll arrive.

Update on my build. I'm going to my LBS today and getting a headset this afternoon, my fork isn't expected till Monday though. I'll take and post a pic after I get the front end set up.