Bicycle Mechanics - Bike fork replacment..

I bought my windsor dover 1.0. It's a nice bike I really enjoy ridding it. nice components except two things not so nice. the seat post is a zoom suspension and works like crap replacing this post with an regular xlc post. Same thing with the suspension fork in the front a zoom and it's too soft and nonadjustable. I want to replace with a rigid fork. been looking on http://www.niagaracycle.com/index.php?cPath=4_46_4602_460203 wondering witch one will work for me. I'm defiantly mechanically incline just don't know a lot on bicycles. :thumb:

A bit more info on your Winsdor Dover may help, maybe a pic?

You seem to need a 1" threaded fork for cantilever brakes. but I have no idea which length steerer you need. Also you need to make sure the fork is suspension corrected or whatever the correct term is, otherwise the geomentry of ypour bike will be slightly off.

http://bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/images/dover1_wht_2100.jpg

I couldn't tell you without looking at the fork/knowing the measurements. You want your replacement fork to have the same measurements as your current fork, likely it will be a suspension corrected fork.

A bit more info on your Winsdor Dover may help, maybe a pic?

You seem to need a 1" threaded fork for cantilever brakes. but I have no idea which length steerer you need. Also you need to make sure the fork is suspension corrected or whatever the correct term is, otherwise the geomentry of ypour bike will be slightly off.

http://bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/images/dover1_wht_2100.jpg

So I just need to measure the steerer length. To my knowledge the tube needs to be cut to length anyways. As long as it's long enough.

So I just need to measure the steerer length. To my knowledge the tube needs to be cut to length anyways. As long as it's long enough.

With a threaded headset, only the last ~40mm is threaded. So you need to hit that window and still have enough threads left. The formula should be something like (steerer) > (head tube + headset stack height), but only greater by about 10-20mm.

With a threaded headset, only the last ~40mm is threaded. So you need to hit that window and still have enough threads left. The formula should be something like (steerer) > (head tube + headset stack height), but only greater by about 10-20mm.


But in the OPs case it would be simpler to just measure from right under the crown race to the top of the topnut and subtract 2-3mm. But a slightly longer steerer is always better than too short.

The hard part will be finding a 1" threaded "Suspension Corrected" fork. Check Nashbar they may have one.

But in the OPs case it would be simpler to just measure from right under the crown race to the top of the topnut and subtract 2-3mm. But a slightly longer steerer is always better than too short.

The hard part will be finding a 1" threaded "Suspension Corrected" fork. Check Nashbar they may have one.

Nashbar does have one only thing I didn't like about it is it set up for disk brake as well. I been reading sometimes 29er forks will work when getting suspension corrected forks.

I guess nashbar does not have one it has a 1 1/8 thredless steerer back to the drawing board a 29er might work will do some measuring.

So I just need to measure the steerer length. To my knowledge the tube needs to be cut to length anyways. As long as it's long enough.
Nope.

You need a new bicycle.

Or you can find a 1" threaded here, but it's tough to chase that ****.

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewforum.php?f=2

Get a real bike to work on.



Tom

Any one can help me with a new fork any ideas.

Isn't it annoying how the seat wobbles?? Take it to a bike shop and see what they say

What's the axle to crown measurement on the current fork?

The hard part will be finding a 1" threaded "Suspension Corrected" fork.

Is that necessary? A normal fork will tighten the head angle a degree or two max while increasing trail what, maybe an inch? Each change will sorta cancel the other out, so no big deal, I figure.

You'll need to do your own measurements, but my eyeballs say that this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/RIGID-MTB-MOUNTAIN-BIKE-FORK-1-inch-26-22-2-THREADED-/110935355703?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d4433137 might work. This will move your geometry down into hybrid territory, and you will need to be wary of pedal height.

Isn't it annoying how the seat wobbles?? Take it to a bike shop and see what they say

My seat wobbled a little too once I replaced the seat post it got a lot better I will also be getting a new quick clamp for it soon I will let you know how well it holds then.

Thanks for the help guys I need something that measures in mm first. I'm still not 100% sure where to measure from point to point. I'm not a bike mechanic I'm a truck mechanic.

I bought my windsor dover 1.0. It's a nice bike I really enjoy ridding it. nice components except two things not so nice. the seat post is a zoom suspension and works like crap replacing this post with an regular xlc post. Same thing with the suspension fork in the front a zoom and it's too soft and nonadjustable. I want to replace with a rigid fork. been looking on http://www.niagaracycle.com/index.php?cPath=4_46_4602_460203 wondering witch one will work for me. I'm defiantly mechanically incline just don't know a lot on bicycles. :thumb:

I think that people have been leading you astray. I doubt, highly, that a modern aluminum bike would have a 1" steer tube. Measure the diameter of the quill you have now. If it is a 1" it will measure 22.2 mm. If it is a 1 1/8" it will measure 25.4mm. I'll leave it up to the reader to do the conversion. If you don't have a caliper to measure with, you can use a quarter. 25.4mm...oh, alright, it's an inch...is just wider than a quarter. 22.2mm is significantly narrower.

I doubt, highly, that a modern aluminum bike would have a 1" steer tube.

I've got an Apollo folding bike which I bought new in 2009 that has an aluminium frame and I'm 90% sure it's got a 1" steerer tube. I'd check, but it's at home, and I'm at university.

I think that people have been leading you astray. I doubt, highly, that a modern aluminum bike would have a 1" steer tube. Measure the diameter of the quill you have now. If it is a 1" it will measure 22.2 mm. If it is a 1 1/8" it will measure 25.4mm. I'll leave it up to the reader to do the conversion. If you don't have a caliper to measure with, you can use a quarter. 25.4mm...oh, alright, it's an inch...is just wider than a quarter. 22.2mm is significantly narrower.

Upon further review, I agree with this. I think you are looking at 1-1/8" threaded.

Ok I will check it out hopefully tonight. I really wasn't going to get anything till I did the measuring. Nothing like having a bike fork you can't use.

I think that people have been leading you astray. I doubt, highly, that a modern aluminum bike would have a 1" steer tube. Measure the diameter of the quill you have now. If it is a 1" it will measure 22.2 mm. If it is a 1 1/8" it will measure 25.4mm. I'll leave it up to the reader to do the conversion. If you don't have a caliper to measure with, you can use a quarter. 25.4mm...oh, alright, it's an inch...is just wider than a quarter. 22.2mm is significantly narrower.

cyccommute my quill is the size of a quarter. Axel to crown is 433mm steer length 153mm. I'm seeing a lot of steer tubes very long?

I'm seeing a lot of steer tubes very long?
You're probably looking at unthreaded forks for threadless headsets. They need to be longer, as they have to protrude some distance above the top race.
To use one of those you need to replace the (top half of) the headset, and get some spacers and a new stem.

cyccommute my quill is the size of a quarter. Axel to crown is 433mm steer length 153mm. I'm seeing a lot of steer tubes very long?

This one (http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Threaded-Length-120mm-Black/dp/B000BMT1VQ) will probably do the job. I exactly this model that measures 400 mm from hub to crown. I also measured a suspension fork that has 80mm of travel that is 475mm from axle to crown. You are in the middle and, taking suspension sag into account, you are probably near that 400 mm while riding.

The fork is available, by the way, in chrome as well. The black one would look good with your bike and continue that "Gateway" scheme.

You do want a steer tube that is long so that you can cut it to fit. Threadless steer tubes are very, very long compared to threaded forks.

Has the OP done the swap? ^I'm gonna pick that one up unless somebody says otherwise. I prefer to call it a "LA Kings look" :thumb:

"If it doesn't move, and it's supposed to, spray it with WD40."
"If it moves, and it's not supposed to, wrap it with duct tape."

I bought my windsor dover 1.0. It's a nice bike I really enjoy ridding it. nice components except two things not so nice. the seat post is a zoom suspension and works like crap replacing this post with an regular xlc post. Same thing with the suspension fork in the front a zoom and it's too soft and nonadjustable. I want to replace with a rigid fork. been looking on http://www.niagaracycle.com/index.php?cPath=4_46_4602_460203 wondering witch one will work for me. I'm defiantly mechanically incline just don't know a lot on bicycles. :thumb:

If the bike has a treaded steerer now, might as well move up to a threadless version assuming you are willing to also buy a new headset and stem. Either was you will need a new crown race that fits both the stem and the headset and then have it installed on the fork. Is it time to think about bonding with a LBS or with some local bikers with more experience and tools on hand?

Be sure to double check the prices on the fork once you figure out which exact type you need. Yes on suspension corrected. Good Chromoly forks are a glut right now -- in the $40 and up range on ebay, amazon or Nashbar. Might want to check one of them with both canti and disk mounts (many stores have these for about $10 more than a regular one)
PM if you need specific advice of some kind.

the seat post is a zoom suspension and works like crap

YGWYPF

At $200 the Cane Creek Thudbuster works well and there is no jiggling saddle slop,
because its able to be built better, than one selling for 1/10th of the price.


Modest Proposal: every-time you think about buying an Upgrade, price out the Ideal,
put the money in a Jar , then after enough thinking about it,
take the money out of the Jar and Buy a whole new, Better, Bike.

Now you Know better what the lesser quality stuff is like.