Track Cycling: Velodrome Racing and Training Area - Track chainset for noobies

Hi all. My first ever post on this forum...

Pointless announcements aside, I'm joining this forum as I'm getting into track cycling. I've just moved to a 5 minute drive away from the local velodrome so I thought I'd give it a proper go. My plan is to use the track over winter for shorter sprint work and time trial tests as part of road cycling, then as the race season opens in May or so join the beginners league. It's on a weekday night and saves time on the weekend for the family.

Last week I bought a used Felt TK2 which should be ample unless I ever find I am the Son of Quadzilla (doubtful, tbh). It doesn't come with cranks, though, and now I have the thorny issue of trying to work out what crank length/ chain ring size to buy. I've looked on fleabay and have been surprised how much real track cranks are. Getting over my sticker shock, I am now looking at around $200 - $250 for new Miche Advanced/ Sram Omnium or used Sugino 75/ Dura Ace.

Am I missing a trick, is there a cheaper 144 bcd option? If I'm not, which route would I be better off going down?

Yep, those are good options. I was going to send you a link to a good price for Omniums, but what was $164 last year is now $234. Dang, that is an impressive price hike!

Since you have a road bike, and I persume it fits, you can use that for your basis on what size cranks to get.

Here is a list of nice cranks for you to invest in, they are probably all around the $200 mark with a ring. A bb is another $30 or so.

Shimano Durace Track
Sram Omnium
Campy Record Pista
Miche Advanced Pista
FSA Track
Sugino 75

Since you have a road bike, and I persume it fits, you can use that for your basis on what size cranks to get.

Here is a list of nice cranks for you to invest in, they are probably all around the $200 mark with a ring. A bb is another $30 or so.

Shimano Durace Track
Sram Omnium
Campy Record Pista
Miche Advanced Pista
FSA Track
Sugino 75

Most people go 5mm shorter than their road bikes as a rule of thumb. Personal preference trumps this, but it's a good place to start.

Gordy, after a while, you will have a nice set of chainrings. But for now start with:
48t chainring
49t chainring
16t cog
15t cog

Those will keep you busy for a while.

Also make sure you buy the tools to install and change the chainrings and cogs.

Hi all, thanks so much for the advice.

I've road cycled for over 20 years, occasionally racing, TT'ing and sometimes getting on a track for a giggle. Because I also row I always felt that the shorter track distances were more familiar to me than road races. I'm finding out that track bikes are a world unto themselves. Take the brakes and the gears away and the complexity goes through the roof!

I was thinking that 167s would be a decent length; it's Carleton's 5 mm shorter than my road cranks and inconspicuously lies in the no-mans land between the 165/ 170 crank length debate. Carleton, thanks also for the cogs & chainring advice. I'll get those and start doing some laps.

If you're looking to save a couple bucks, the Andel Crankset is a decent, 144bcd option.

http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=188_193_660

Hi all, thanks so much for the advice.

I've road cycled for over 20 years, occasionally racing, TT'ing and sometimes getting on a track for a giggle. Because I also row I always felt that the shorter track distances were more familiar to me than road races. I'm finding out that track bikes are a world unto themselves. Take the brakes and the gears away and the complexity goes through the roof!

I was thinking that 167s would be a decent length; it's Carleton's 5 mm shorter than my road cranks and inconspicuously lies in the no-mans land between the 165/ 170 crank length debate. Carleton, thanks also for the cogs & chainring advice. I'll get those and start doing some laps.

167.5s are a great option, too. I rode that length for 2 seasons.