Mountain Biking - Square one...

I had posted an idea I had last year about dropping my Parker down to 30# and using it as a trail bike. Bleh...it's a no go.

I dropped it down to 32 by cannibalizing stuff from my Komodo. Test ride felt promising, but after a little while on it...the conclusion was that it was the same old Slopestyle bike with a short seat tube. It would still be more of a chore to pedal than my Komodo for sure.


Back to the drawing board.


May have to just sell everything I own and buy a proper trailbike.

I was bummed to discover that my PIKE was so heavy. (5.25#) More than a Fox36. Parker frame is 8lbs7oz. My Komodo frame is 5.1#, I think. I really would like to sell both frames,.both forks, and snag a 456c and either a Revelation, DT, Argyle Rct, or 32 Talas fork.

Daggum money!

May have to just sell everything I own and buy a proper trailbike.That is exactly the conclusion I came to, Got rid of the Trek hardtail, sold the Dirt Jumper and have the XTS Moto on CL right now. Also ridding the garage and shed of an IT175, 2 Suz. 80s, a Mini-Trail and maybe my trusty old 125.

All that in preparation to get what I really want. Then Ill be down to just the DH bike and one proper trailbike.

The RS Sektor Solo Air is nice for the money if you don't want the two-position coil. Its pretty light too, and plenty stiff. Its what I've got on the front of my Bandit.

I'm in the middle of selling a couple 80s road bikes and a frame-set to help build a fatbike fund. Unfortunately that will still only get me ~1/2 way to the goal. I don't think the On-One Fatty will be available for a bit anyway, so I've got some time to gather more funds.

Do you guys have any particular bikes in mind that you're looking at?

Do I smell a 29er?

I had posted an idea I had last year about dropping my Parker down to 30# and using it as a trail bike. Bleh...it's a no go.

I dropped it down to 32 by cannibalizing stuff from my Komodo. Test ride felt promising, but after a little while on it...the conclusion was that it was the same old Slopestyle bike with a short seat tube. It would still be more of a chore to pedal than my Komodo for sure.


Back to the drawing board.


May have to just sell everything I own and buy a proper trailbike.

I was bummed to discover that my PIKE was so heavy. (5.25#) More than a Fox36. Parker frame is 8lbs7oz. My Komodo frame is 5.1#, I think. I really would like to sell both frames,.both forks, and snag a 456c and either a Revelation, DT, Argyle Rct, or 32 Talas fork.

Daggum money!

Dooo iiiiiiit.

Got a small Trans-AM frame, and small 2011 Trance-X frame sitting around that'll be going cheap, but am pretty sure they'd be way too small for you.

Pike = nice fork. Revelation = better fork. The first gen. Pike coil I had was ridden hard for near six years. Then I sold it, and the dude who bought it is still pounding on the thing.

That said,things have come a long way in a few short years. My Rev is lighter, stiffer, better damped, and 10mm more travel.

Do you guys have any particular bikes in mind that you're looking at?I'm looking to get a Yeti SB66. Everything I want in a trailbike: slack, long-legged, thru-axles, ISCG but comparatively light and still a climber . . . and Desert Turquoise.

Just read up on it. That does sound freakin' sweet. When you get your hands on one, don't forget the camera.

Pick up something like a close-out Nickel or Heckler, don't look back. They can be built up light or burly, and IMO, would make a kick-ass do-it-all for you, paired with a good rear shock and fork. Decent wheels, dropper post, etc. Build up one nice ride for yourself, sell off the rest.

Dooo iiiiiiit.

Got a small Trans-AM frame, and small 2011 Trance-X frame sitting around that'll be going cheap, but am pretty sure they'd be way too small for you.

Pike = nice fork. Revelation = better fork. The first gen. Pike coil I had was ridden hard for near six years. Then I sold it, and the dude who bought it is still pounding on the thing.

That said,things have come a long way in a few short years. My Rev is lighter, stiffer, better damped, and 10mm more travel.

Love my Revelation fork, but wish my Fox rear shocks were more sturdy. By the time I finished the last ride I was fully squished and it's basically a new rear shock. Hope the seals are not blown on this one, too.

Amazing the price of MTBs now — when I got my Rockhopper FSR in 2001 it was about $900, now a good fully seems to be $4000+. You could buy a motorbike for heaven's sake.

Yeah, the air sprung Sektor or RVL are so stinkin light!. I figure if I'm riding a hardtail...it may as well be 24# instead of 29.75, lol. I could hit that with the 456c and a Sektor. The Titus FTMc is on sale right now for 699£. Wish I had the coin.

My PIKE is a 2008. It's still going strong, but it's over 5lbs. Portly for a trail bike. My hardtail frame weighs a shade over 5# too. The 456C would drop 2 lbs. A Sektor would drop 1.5. Thought about keeping ust in the rear and standard 2.35 up front. There's another .75#.

The nice thing about my current build is that it's definitely tough. I'm still totally digging tubeless.


When did you get the Chromag, Scrub? I thought you were ballin a GD post on all your rides. Still the best dropper for the money? I'm probably going to move back to one soon. This region screams for it.

Doug, I'm surprised you haven't sold your kids kidney to fund the SB already. It's pretty impressive. (and intimidating)

It's kinda funny looking at my bike on paper:

Kinesis frame-5.1#
Pike-5.25
Hope pro 2/EX5.1d-2000g
Excavator 2.35" DTC UST 2000g
Atlas crankset-950g
Azonic AM 720 hi rise bars- 320g

The only weight-conscious crap is my saddle, post, 1x9 setup, and pedals.

Changes R coming.

I've been watching OEM Hecklers and Blur LTs on the Bay. Haven't Been able to bite one yet. I'm beginning to think I'd like the FTM much better though, given the longer ETT.

Digging B2Bs Devinci from a distance too.

I'm thrilled with my old Blur classic. It's light, but that's probably the high-test stuff I put on it. It does have a really steep head tube angle, though, but I've muted that with a longer-than-stock fork.

Anyway, a used Blur LT would be a good choice. :thumb:

When did you get the Chromag, Scrub? I thought you were ballin a GD post on all your rides. Still the best dropper for the money? I'm probably going to move back to one soon. This region screams for it.



Couple months ago. Very, very glad, and digging it. It, the Blur TRc, and the Reign-Xuilt up burly make for a nice quiver. Small-medium-large bikes, so to speak.

The GD being off is just seeing how I get along without, purely for weight weenie geekery. Everytime in the past when it's been off, I've missed it and it's gone back on within a few rides...

Yeah, for a good mix of pure reliability/easy of service/cost/parts availability/function, IMO, it's the best.

That said, you can have my Reverb when you pry it from between my cold, dead butt cheeks.

Yeah, the air sprung Sektor or RVL are so stinkin light!. I figure if I'm riding a hardtail...it may as well be 24# instead of 29.75, lol. I could hit that with the 456c and a Sektor. The Titus FTMc is on sale right now for 699£. Wish I had the coin.

My PIKE is a 2008. It's still going strong, but it's over 5lbs. Portly for a trail bike. My hardtail frame weighs a shade over 5# too. The 456C would drop 2 lbs. A Sektor would drop between 1.5-2. Thought about keeping ust in the rear and standard 2.35 up front. There's another .75#.

The nice thing about my current build is that it's definitely tough. I'm still totally digging tubeless.


It's kinda funny looking at my bike on paper:

Kinesis frame-5.1#
Pike-5.25
Hope pro 2/EX5.1d-2000g
Excavator 2.35" DTC UST 2000g
Atlas crankset-950g
Azonic AM 720 hi rise bars- 320g

The only weight-conscious crap is my saddle, post, 1x9 setup, and pedals.

Changes R coming.

I've been watching OEM Hecklers and Blur LTs on the Bay. Haven't Been able to bite one yet. I'm beginning to think I'd like the FTM much better though, given the longer ETT.


Well, frame and fork are the obvious measures. US disto shows the frame for $399, but no idea on stock status - keep an eye on their site, and whenever they get stock, pounce on one. Ha ha.

Everything else just depends on the pockets, and personal preferences. Size, as well. I'm a little dude, who tends to ride smoothly. Can get away with much lighter builds than some of the guys i know, who ride like bowling balls.

Wheels - whenever you blow up a rim, replace with something lighter. Some of the new stuff out there is absurdly light and tough. A nice build with good spokes and nips on a lighter rim will work wonders.


Tires - damn, those are heavy. Yep, I'm a huge fan of full UST in back, "tubeless ready" up front. Can save quite a bit, and still be quite durable.
Current fav is Speci Ground Control 2.3 UST in back with a Bontrager XR4 "T-less ready" 2.35 up front. Grippy, fairly light, nice fat profile, not too slow rolling. Big bike is running the same Bonty tire up front, but a 2.25 Ardent UST in back.

Cranks - unless you've found yourself breaking or bending them, something like a basic LX unit will save a big chunk of weight (esp. if using a lighter aftermarket ring), and be super cheap. The weight between that and say, an XT is minimal when yhou account for that most of the difference is steel rings and hardware vs. alu - the arms are within a few grams.

Bars - well, whatever works for your fit and feel. Just swapped to a RF SixC DH bar and dropped 100gms. I've no worries about its durability.

I'm going to have my rear wheel rebuilt this winter. It has a flat spot or two...but really, I'm a smooth rider too. I've been on these wheels since'06. Even doing waist-high to flat at my portly 200+ lbs has not knocked them out of true. Only an occasional mistake on the trail riding outside of my means, lol. The front is still straight with no flat spots. I've been considering an 819 rear rim, but Stans is also an option.

As for bars...due to my height, I run minimum of 40mm rise. Could save around 95g going back to my ea70, but lose 35mm of width. Not sure how I feel about that.

I've been watching TitusTi now and then, but could just order from on one as well. We'll see how my Ebay sales go. Jamis resale is crap. MTB resale in general is crap.

It's still hard for me to spend 4 bills on a hardtail when mine works fine...could just work harder on the motor.

Doug, I'm surprised you haven't sold your kids kidney to fund the SB already. It's pretty impressive. (and intimidating)Hahaha! I think he could beat me up if I tried to. I'm on a strict contract with the family CFO to pare down the stable before I can get something new. Even though it won't net that much money toward, it will raise my stock considerably getting rid of a bunch of two-wheeled crap I don't ride/like to ride any more. I think the Plumber's Nightmare may be sold now. Hmmm . . . wonder if I can get more than 25 bucks for that old Scwhinn Traveler. Even that would quintuple my investment :lol:.

I'm super-impressed with the SB66. It eclipsed my longtime gotta-have the 575. Also removed the temptation to go downright silly and get an ASR-7. That would have been a mistake but was oh-so-tempting.

Actually Scrub...the LX crankset is the same weight (within a few grams) of my Atlas and Hone cranksets AFAIK. I run a single 32t ring so ring weight is moot. I personally feel that my Hone crankset is a little more laterally stiff than the Raceface. Given the similar construction, the LX would be similarly stiffer than the Atlas.

Atlas is pretty tough fo sho...but I never noticed my inner guide ring rubbing my frame with the Hone. I had to actually take it down a mm with the RF's.

Actually Scrub...the LX crankset is the same weight (within a few grams) of my Atlas and Hone cranksets AFAIK. I run a single 32t ring so ring weight is moot. I personally feel that my Hone crankset is a little more laterally stiff than the Raceface. Given the similar construction, the LX would be similarly stiffer than the Atlas.

Atlas is pretty tough fo sho...but I never noticed my inner guide ring rubbing my frame with the Hone. I had to actually take it down a mm with the RF's.

Yeah, I know the Hone and LX are about the same. I assumed the Atlas would be heavier.

Well, the frame sold for 350. I wasn't expecting that. If they pay, I'll be most of the way toward a 456c.

Called TitusTi today. They're expecting a shipment of nude frames this month. I hope theyr'e right. I like 'em murdered out Ninja-like.

woohoo! sounding good so far. :thumb:

Problem solved...

http://www.santacruzbicycles.com/catalog/frames-c-25_2988.html?osCsid=10lov15752a0159kenr9vsdov1


http://www.santacruzbicycles.com/catalog/heckler-with-float-canada-sales-only-p-710.html


Basically...I will be stoked soon!
http://www.cambriabike.com/images/product/large/Heckler13_Clear.jpg

Obviously, I'd rather have the LT2.2 for 9 bills or the LT2.2 carbon for 15 bills, but the Heckler is a bike I've wanted for many years and to be able to get the newest rendition with a CTD Float in a satin raw nonetheless...I'm stoked!

Mine's on order. The Parker frame is shipping tonight. The Domain, Stroker Ryde's, Syncros cockpit, and some stuff will be sold. I'll gut the Komodo and have:

2012 Heckler 6.1 with Fox Float CTD
Rockshox PIKE Coil U-Turn (for now)
Raceface Atlas 32t bashwich
PG990 11-34
PC971
XT Shadow RD
XT Shifter
Elixir R 180 / 160
Hope Pro-2 / DT EX 5.1d
Excavator UST for now (probably drop around 1.25lbs of rotating weight by going with some lighter meats)
Thomson post
Thomson or Ragley Stubbing stem
EA70 bars
Peaty's
WTB Rocket V Team Ti saddle


After I move to some lighter tires...like maybe a Nev/Nev 2.35" setup...I should be right around 29-30lbs or so...unless I get a little more creative.

Nice! Should do you well.

Yep! Now I wish I hadn't chopped down my rear hydro hose last week. It may be too short, LOL.



edit: Actually...it looks like more of a straight shot from the IS mounts to the cockpit versus my Komodo that has to go up the Seatstay, across the TT, and around to the lever. Maybe I won't need a new hose.

Congrats, Ed! You are going to love that bike. I haven't ridden one, but I've seen nothing but glowing reviews. You gots a lot of travel. :thumb:

I've had various travel bikes in the past, but I think the high/forward single pivot will be great. I'm kind of a set and forget kind of guy. VPP ain't great for that. I enjoyed my swing link bikes, but this will be more versatile for sure...especially with a 3-position Float.

I'm a little pissed at eBay. I haven't sold anything on there for a bit.

I guess now you get charged a final value fee of 9%, Shipping fee of 8%, and a paypal fee. (not sure what it is, but it used to be only 3%)

So out of my $350 sale, I'm getting charged approx $46!!!

I'm appalled!

Shipping fee?? Is that tied to their 'canned' UPS shipping charge that the system tries to spit out for you? Last time I sold I found that hard to work around, as I always try to ship FedEx Ground to save the buyer some money.

Ouch, did you use Ebay's pre-printed label? I never have, they looked expensive.

No pre printed label. I usually shop usps because it's cheaper than brown. Either way, Ebay is not involved in my shipping, yet they charge a final value shipping fee.

It's so you don't sell your bike for one dollar and charge $1500 shipping to avoid the final value fee.

You can also short shock and/or short shock/fork the thing.

I've got a buddy riding one with a shorter stroke and i2i shock paired with a 130mm fork. Short slack trail destroying machine.

Should be sweet! Looking forward to seeing it built.

FWIW: if you grab a deal on a Sektor Solo Air, then pop for one of the nicer Rev dampers, you basically get a Rev Solo Air for way less than normal. Ride the crap outa the Sektor as is, then pop for the damper when you can. I upgraded mine recently for under $100.

Or if you want a beefier fork, an ebay deal on someone selling an OEM Lyrik Solo Air with the Moco damper vs. Mico could be a nice match. The RS air forks are sweet riding, and very easy to tune, and alter travel with. Same deal with the damper - ride as is and upgrade later if you feel it's needed.

You can also short shock and/or short shock/fork the thing.

I've got a buddy riding one with a shorter stroke and i2i shock paired with a 130mm fork. Short slack trail destroying machine.

Should be sweet! Looking forward to seeing it built.

FWIW: if you grab a deal on a Sektor Solo Air, then pop for one of the nicer Rev dampers, you basically get a Rev Solo Air for way less than normal. Ride the crap outa the Sektor as is, then pop for the damper when you can. I upgraded mine recently for under $100.

Or if you want a beefier fork, an ebay deal on someone selling an OEM Lyrik Solo Air with the Moco damper vs. Mico could be a nice match. The RS air forks are sweet riding, and very easy to tune, and alter travel with. Same deal with the damper - ride as is and upgrade later if you feel it's needed.

So can you find out your friends i2i and stroke that's working for him? I don't suppose you'd want to change the length too much b/c it would kill the 13.5BBh. Start banging crank arms on stuff.

I'm going to build it with the PIKE initially until I can regroup. I may be able to get enough out of what I've got to fund a Sektor and a damper. Dunno. Christmas is coming as well. I usually get a small wad to put toward bike stuff. Rolling it out at 130mm sounds kinda fun actually. I was doing that with the Parker and really liked it barring the extra weight and short ST. It was 100mm rear and I was setting my fork at 120. I think a Lyrik "sounds" nice, but it probably not necessary given the advances in 32mm platform. The pike has handled alot and still works pretty well. The only reason I would be switching to the Lyrik or RVL would be to save over a lbs of dead weight.

Yeah, with the shorter stuff you probably would get the BB down into the range like my bike is-- 12.75" or so. You also will sharpen the HTA by a degree or so for every 20mm of travel. (Not official math. ;))

Yeah, with the shorter stuff you probably would get the BB down into the range like my bike is-- 12.75" or so. You also will sharpen the HTA by a degree or so for every 20mm of travel. (Not official math. ;))

Short-shocked = lowering the rear end = slacker HTA. Drop the rear down from 150 to 130. Drop the front down from 150-130. Same HTA. If I kept the front at 140 with my PIKE...would bring the HTA to 68.5.

The '13 Heckler has a 67.5 degree HTA...my '12 is 69deg.

Should be here Friday

Sweet!

Search around the emptybeer SC forum - there are a couple threads about short shocking.

My buddy's is the generation just prior to the current - not sure on the stock i2i/stroke vs. what he has on their now, but will try to find out.

Official weights...

My komodo frame is 5.5 lbs.
Coil PIKE is 5.25 lbs.

The Heckler is slated as 6.4.
Sektor solo air is 4.04

Basically, I can go with the latter and it would weigh 29.5. Go with non UST tires and it'd be close to 28# flat.

Get some Specialized 2Bliss. I haven't cut one yet. Beefier still is my new Geax Saguaro TNT.

The brown truck showed up today.


Dude! How can you not just LOVE raw?! What?! Pimp!
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h28/chelboed/picsay-1352501845.jpg


The Evolution CTD alone is $310
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h28/chelboed/picsay-1352501937.jpg http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h28/chelboed/picsay-1352501979.jpg

Creative cable routing bosses.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h28/chelboed/picsay-1352502015.jpg

I'm digging these outside/inside bosses too.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h28/chelboed/IMAG0287.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h28/chelboed/IMAG0288.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h28/chelboed/IMAG0289.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h28/chelboed/IMAG0290-2.jpg


Ready to build.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h28/chelboed/picsay-1352502163.jpg

Very nice!

Very cool! I'm somewhat surprised, and yet not, that my old Blur has the same cable guides.

That's some good photography work there ed. :)

^^ He learned from hirevs :).

Heck...that's just my phone camera. I'll have to bust out the slr.

Can't really build it until I get my headset and seatpost shim next week, but here's a quick mockup. This frame has hella rear tire clearance compared to my komodo.

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h28/chelboed/picsay-1352530744.jpg

Fantastic, Ed! You be ballin a proper trailbike now, you dog.

Wow! Looking good.

I don't know why I never thought of it before... but SC single pivot bikes don't have any chainslap, do they? :)

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaargh! I'm pissed!

I rode that freakin' Komodo for years w/o shortening the brake hoses. 2 weeks before I decide to do all this, I get a wild idea to shorten it. Loved it for 2 wks. Now the rear brake hose is too short for my new frame.

The pisser:
New hose is about $40 for the Elixir "R" series. (+shipping) $50 for Jagwire at my LBS.
I'm out of fluid too. There's another $15.

I'm hoping my LBS will slide me enough fluid to get it rolling.


I've also considered just going BB7 b/c I'm freakin' about sick and tired of stupid associated cost with Hydraulics.


I'm watching some stuff on ebay. It's pretty freakin' ******** to spend $50 + on just a hose lengthen on 3y/o brakes when I can just get a new set for $150.



Suggestions?


Edit: Maybe it's time I explore other options. I only change pads once a season..but I have to bleed 3X to fight the sponge.

I think you're not ready for the new bike. I'll give you $200.