Bicycle Mechanics - Replacing sealed hub bearings

I have a set of early 80s Specialized hubs with sealed bearings. They look like these ones (http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPECIALIZED-STAGE-HUBS-36-hole-NOS-/280855380347?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item416449017b) (save for having been in use for about 30 years). Three of the four spin very smoothly. The fourth seems to need replacement. The ID is 12mm and the seal reads "IKS" and "600 IRS". I have a couple questions. First, how do I remove the bearing(s) from the shell? Second, where can I find replacement sealed bearings? I found NOMA IKS 600 series bearings (http://iksbearing.thomasnet.com/viewitems/600-series-extra-small-metric-bearings-2/600-series-extra-small-metric-bearings?&forward=1) on the net, but the largest bore shown is 9mm. I also saw some sealed bearings at Loose Screws (http://loosescrews.com/index.cgi?c=Bearings&sc=Cartridge&id=51783262509). Assuming I can get the bearing out to measure the OD and confirm the measurements, are those likely candidates?

Thx,

Skip

bearings get knocked out with a variety of methods depending on the hub construction. once out you can measure OD ID and thickness

The main thing is to get the cones off. Some are threaded onto the axle and some are set screwed. Once off, the axle is fatter in the center to form a shoulder. Tap the axle end with a wood block and mallet to get the first side off, then put the axle back in to hit the other out.

Are the bearings worn or just need to be regreased? The seals are generally removable to allow regreasing. To remove, insert a small pointed knife or jeweler's screwdriver from the outer perimeter to lift the lip of the seal and pop the sheet out. Do not bend it or kink it, so gentle motion. Rinse with a cleaner such as Brake-cleaner let dry thoroughly and regrease with a good grease. The seals pop back on evenly and reinsert to the axle.

Some setups allow the bearings to be pressed back together via the QR axle and cones. It is not the fastest but is gentle and easy to manage by screwing the QR nut and flipping the lever. As it gets down to the end of the reach, add a nut large enough to shoulder over the axle end and continue the process until it is all the way down.

The number printed on the seal or lazer printed on the outer shell is an industry identifier. www.mcmaster-carr.com is a good source for new bearings and they ship very quickly.

Bearings are generally just pressed in so once you get the axle out, you can usually just knock them out with a hammer and punch and "press" the new ones in with a socket that is nearly the same size as the bearings OD.

The seal will give you a bearing number and with that you can order the bearings online or go to your LBS who can order new bearings for you. There is a chance they may even have them in stock.

This is another good source for bearings. http://enduroforkseals.com/

I have a front sealed bearing hub similar to those you have. Attached is an old ad for your hubs that has a diagram of the inside setup. Disassemble is fairly easy; just unscrew the end nut and preload nuts like you would a loose ball hub, using cone wrenches and remove the axle (you should only have to remove the nuts on one side and slide the axle out. Once this is done carefully pry out the metal dust covers with a small screwdriver. These bearings are usually pressed in. The best tool I have found for this are these Sealed Bearing & Hub Cup Remover http://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi?d=single&c=Tools&sc=Axle%20Sealed%20Bearing&tc=&item_id=LS-0098LT&id=992732126840 (buy a couple as they tend to get bent up, plus this website is going out of business. They way they work is simple. Squeeze the metal nubs together and insert them through the bearing until the lips on the nubs are behind the bearing. Next turn the hub over and you will see the tool has created a surface to drive out the bearing. Put the axle back in the hub until one end is against tool and and pound out the bearing; if you use something other than the axle it will probably be too narrow and the tool may slip out and usually the bearing will come out easy enough that no harm will come to the axle threads. If the bearing was not loose but binding as it turned it may serviceable, if the bearing was loose then it will need to be replaced. My theory here is if you are going to go through the trouble of
pounding out the bearings you might as well replace them. The size is probably 6001 ("RS" for Rubber Sealed); the size is 12mm x 28mm x 8mm. These bearings are available pretty much everywhere; here is your size at the the Loose screws site http://www.thethirdhand.com/index.cgi?d=single&c=Bearings&sc=Cartridge&tc=&item_id=UB-6001&id=155511326832. I like to buy Phil Wood bearings because I know what I'm getting http://www.jensonusa.com/Sealed-Cartridge-Bearings/Phil-Wood-Sealed-Cartridge-Bearing but there are plenty to choose from.



280775

The main thing is to get the cones off. Some are threaded onto the axle and some are set screwed. Once off, the axle is fatter in the center to form a shoulder. Tap the axle end with a wood block and mallet to get the first side off, then put the axle back in to hit the other out.

Are the bearings worn or just need to be regreased? The seals are generally removable to allow regreasing.

Sorry, I should have mentioned that I've already had the hubs apart and tried regreasing the rough bearing. While it's better than before, it's still not nearly as smooth as the other three. As far as I could tell, there was no shoulder on the axle.

Thx,

S

Attached is an old ad for your hubs that has a diagram of the inside setup.... These bearings are usually pressed in. The best tool I have found for this are these Sealed Bearing & Hub Cup Remover (buy a couple as they tend to get bent up, plus this website is going out of business.... The size is probably 6001 ("RS" for Rubber Sealed); the size is 12mm x 28mm x 8mm. These bearings are available pretty much everywhere....

Thanks for the recommendation. I would probably never have found that tool on the Loose Screws website. I like the ad too. "We wanted hubs that you could build into a wheel and virtually forget." That's just what these hubs have been. The front hub was serviced about 20 years ago after I went through some rain with the bike on my roof rack. (My theory was that that they probably weren't meant to keep water out completely at 55mph.) Until now, that's the only attention they have had. They are the only thing left from my '83 Trek 760 too, so I'd like to keep them.

Thx,

S