Track Cycling: Velodrome Racing and Training Area - Cog removal issues

I figured I'd ask here since you all probably remove more cogs than most. This summer I converted my commuter bike to a fixed gear and am constantly screwing around with gear ratios (so far, mainly on the chainrings). I've swapped out the cogs twice now - the first time I broke my cog remover tool and took the wheel to my local bike shop (they put the wheel in a vice). I swapped them out a again tonight and snapped the link in my chainring tool (park 1/8" model). I replaced the link and was finally able to break the drive side loose.

I doubt you all break links like that - maybe you do Maybe I'm wrapping it wrong, but it seems to put all the torque on the rear link. I'll set the rear link then wrap the loose chain around the cog - correct??? Is there a better tool? Maybe something a little beefier? Or maybe I'm just doing it wrong? I am running 3/32 gear on the bike - that shouldn't make any difference using an 1/8" tool, right?

Thanks

Are you greasing the cogs when you switch them? Sounds like you have been doing it fairly frequently, so I doubt it would seize that fast.

Are you greasing the cogs when you switch them? Sounds like you have been doing it fairly frequently, so I doubt it would seize that fast.

Yeah, plenty of grease on the threads. The non-drive side cog comes off pretty easy (obviously), just having issues with the drive side.

What are you guys using for a cog removal tool? The park 1/8" seemed like a pretty solid one - the chain on it is a KMC brand.

I'm using a vintage park chain whip. so you're should be fine.

I suspect you may be using it incorrectly? Look up some videos on how to use one.

Checked the vids and I was using the tool correctly - I'll try replacing the link with something else. The "rotofix" method seems to work pretty good too.

I don't recommend rotafixing. Can damage your BB shell and can strip your hub threads. It provides an extremely unnecessary amount of torque.

I don't recommend rotafixing. Can damage your BB shell and can strip your hub threads. It provides an extremely unnecessary amount of torque.

Thanks for the info.

Checked the vids and I was using the tool correctly - I'll try replacing the link with something else. The "rotofix" method seems to work pretty good too.

-1


I don't recommend rotafixing. Can damage your BB shell and can strip your hub threads. It provides an extremely unnecessary amount of torque.

+1

If you are properly using a nice chainwhip and still having troubles, you can take a long pipe and slip it over the handle of the whip and apply pressure to that. It extends the lever and creates more torque for the same work.

here is what I use.

http://jastein.com/Images/UnfixieE.jpg

http://jastein.com/index.htm

here is what I use.

http://jastein.com/Images/UnfixieE.jpg

http://jastein.com/index.htm

I like that one - locks right on to the cog. Spendy, but nice tools are.

Thanks for the replies all.

here is what I use.


Looks good. Though isn't designed for anything smaller than 15t...

Looks good. Though isn't designed for anything smaller than 15t...

Yeah, thats why it really wont work for me as my "fixie" is a 29er mtb bike and I'm using 36-38T chainrings w/13-15T cogs. I'm going to pick up a decent beginner track bike this spring though when the classes start back up at the velodrome and think I'll pick one of those up.