Touring - sub-$1000 touring bike?

I'm going to purchase a touring bike later in the fall and wondered if you all could help me compare and contrast the models I've found in my price range. I'll be doing light touring to start, but would like to be able to "grow into" longer, more rigorous touring later on, if this is possible in my price range. Ideally, I'd like to spend less than $1000, but will spend a bit more for the right bike. Another key requirement for this bike is that it be fairly quick and responsive on the road for shorter, around town jaunts, i.e. a speedy cruiser.

Here are the bikes I've found:

--Bianchi Volpe

--Bianchi San Remo (this bike intrigues me. Listed as a light tourer, I imagine it would be speedy on the road, but could it be weighted down for longer tours?)

--Fuji Touring

--Trek 520

Of course, if there are any models in my price range that I've not mentioned, I'd be happy to look at any suggestions you may have.

Thanks,

----> SliverStreak

I considered those bikes, but I ended up getting the Specialized Sirrus A1. It is pretty lightweight, and everyone that sees it just loves the bike. I'll be touring with it in Italy, so if you're not in a hurry, I'll report back how the bike handles during my trip.


Koffee Brown

Koffee,

Thanks for the info. Curious about your decision re: the Sirrus: do you anticipate any issues with the upright riding position on longer tours? I have a Jamis bike that I use now for getting around town and for the upcoming city commute and I really like it; however, I really notice the wind slamming into my chest when I try to go for speed on smooth roads or downhill. Drop bars seem ideal for speed and comfort on tours.

----> SilverStreak

Nah. I got the upright bike because I have a REALLY bad lower back. I thought about it, and I just couldn't bear the thought of overextending on my bike for 6- 8 hours a day. So I talked to the sales people, and they recommended this bike (and a couple of others). I feel extra-comfortable on this bike.

Well, as my back flexibility increases, I will be able to graduate to drop bars. For now, I have to deal with the straight handlebars I have. It feels like relief to have them.

Koffeeh

Yo Silverstreak
I am going to pick up my Trek520 tomorrow, back on Friday 10th. Will be doing a shakedown trip almsot immediately. Will post the results later if u are interested. I did consider the Fujui but went with Trak after reading glowing reviews on a few sites.

Ciao

You guys have it wrong about drop bars. They are not designed to get you into a low stretched out position, but to give you a handfull of riding positions, from the tops down to the drops.
The actual position you ride in is entirely up to you. If you place your bars higher and closer to the saddle, you will ride more upright, but with the option of going onto the drops into a wind or on a descent.
If you place flat bars down low (as on many cross country MTBs and these new-fangled sports-hybrids), you only have one, low position.

REI make (used to anyway) a very good value tourer that was expedition worthy.

Jamis also make a sport/touring and cyclo-cross/touring bike.

How about putting drop bars on a Mtn. Bike? Ive got a cannondale, and if i put the drop bars would i be able to rig the brakes and shifters to the drop bars so that they work well with the the handlebar positioning?

:confused:

Check out
http://www.sjscycles.com/
for Thorn bikes

Originally posted by MichaelW
You guys have it wrong about drop bars. They are not designed to get you into a low stretched out position, but to give you a handfull of riding positions, from the tops down to the drops.
The actual position you ride in is entirely up to you. If you place your bars higher and closer to the saddle, you will ride more upright, but with the option of going onto the drops into a wind or on a descent.
If you place flat bars down low (as on many cross country MTBs and these new-fangled sports-hybrids), you only have one, low position.

REI make (used to anyway) a very good value tourer that was expedition worthy.

Jamis also make a sport/touring and cyclo-cross/touring bike.

Ya, MichaelW is right. Drop bars take the weight off of your back. If you have a weak or sore-prone back, drop bars are the way to go.

It is hard to believe, I know, but it is fact.

Originally posted by mike

Ya, MichaelW is right. Drop bars take the weight off of your back. If you have a weak or sore-prone back, drop bars are the way to go.


It probably depends on the medical cause of the problem. Some people with a history of herniated discs, for example, may be better off on 'bents.

But I agree with both Mikes as far as this: it's a mistake to simply assume that if you have lower back pain, drop bars will be a problem. And I agree that drop bars can actually be more comfortable for some people with back problems.

I know this because I have arthritis in my lower spine -- bone spurs -- and long rides on my road bike give me more relief than anything else short of painkillers, which I avoid. I do keep my bars up nearly at saddle level, but the ability to change posture and hand position frequently is what does the trick.

RichC

You might consider finding an older, used bicycle. The late seventies, early eighties touring bikes or, as they used to call them, sport touring bikes might do nicely.

I'm thinking of older Fuji bikes, a Royale, or instance, or some models of Raleigh, with strong steel frames and braze-ons. These older bikes were often made with long chainstays, making large rear panniers practical. For instance, an older Fuji I saw sitting around had 45cm chainstays-- as long as a new Trek 520 or one of those expensive Bruce Gordon bikes. These bikes will have 36 spoke wheels in a heavy guage, too, and rims suitable for thicker tires. Admittedly the rims will be cut for Schraeder valves, but this can be an advantage if you're touring away from bike shops. The downtube shifters are an advantage for touring, I think, but even if you disagree the cost of a new bike might make you willing to accept the older technology.

The frames are good quality, and strong, no worse than what you'd get on a steel tourer now. An older bike like this, though, might set you back only $100-$200. You can find a lot of them around, in good or even near new condition. Even if you decided to get a set of brand new wheels 36 spoke wheels made for touring you'd be a good $500 ahead of your price target. If you thought you had to have a new, heavier fork, or a mtb chainring set you'd still save a lot of money.

Originally posted by MichaelW
You guys have it wrong about drop bars. They are not designed to get you into a low stretched out position, but to give you a handfull of riding positions, from the tops down to the drops.


I'm with Mike. I have drop "Randonneur " bars on my main bike (they rise slightly from the stem then flatten and go into the drop)

They help in preventing numb wrists.

I've been riding a Jamis Coda for about a year now. Great components and ride, but suffer from numb hands due (IMHO) to the straight bar. Thought about converting to a drop bar, but the cost (200-300$) didn't make financial sense.

I'm now thinking about the Jamis Aurora, or Fuji Touring. Then in a few years, stepping up to a Bruce Gordon or Rivendell.

Ted Ingraham

I got a pretty good deal on a Cannondale T800 touring bike a year ago. The shop was closing out its Cannondale line and I picked up the T800 for around $700. This is normally a $1000+ bike. If you look around and aren't in a big hurry, you'll find a bargain. I saw another T800 on Ebay a few months ago. Less than 300 miles and the owner was asking around $450.

I like the T800. It carries a big load and is comfortable, even after 70+ miles a day. Depending on which brand and model you end up buying, you may have to ask your bike shop to replace the front chainrings with smaller sizes to accomodate pedeling heavy loads up steep grades. If you purchase from a shop they usually do this free of charge.

I'm afraid I have limited experience with other brands. I tried the Trek 520 and liked the way it rode. A friend of mine has had his 520 for almost 20 years and its still a great bike, but he recently purchased a Bruce Gordon. Another friend swears by her Bianchi. Its kind of the Ford vs. Chevy thing. Everyone likes their bike, but they all have their good and bad points.

You might want to check out http://www.adventurecycling.org/ and read their buyers guide. You can download a couple buyers guides from the archives as well.

Good luck.