Winter Cycling - How do I reduce sweat on my winter rides?

I wear full long johns, dockers pants, a sweater, and a light LLBean rainjacket (keeps out wind) on commutes in 30's -50F.

But I sweat alot above the waist under it all, and if I stop riding, I can feel myself start to get chilly as my layers are wet from the sweat.

How to manage sweat so I don't freeze if out riding all day?

PS- I am trying to stay away from cycling specific clothes and Gore-Tex type stuff. Too expensive. Just trying to use regular clothes.

Thanks for the tips.

Wear the minimum possible. 1 or 2 small layers should be all you need at 30-50F.
The cheapest way to have something correct should be to look for 1 or 2 layers of polyester or wool/merino tops
Cut a plastic sheet the shape of your upper body (close to a rectangle shape) put that under your top in front and you've got your cycling gear for commutes. That's it

I wear full long johns, dockers pants, a sweater, and a light LLBean rainjacket (keeps out wind) on commutes in 30's -50F.Don't wear waterproof stuff if it doesn't rain.

If it does rain, choose between getting sweaty or getting wet from the rain. You will see rain gear marketed as breathable (Goretex is an example)... take it with a grain of salt. If you're prone to sweating like I am, you'll still have that problem no matter what. My latest raincoat is a Goretex Active shell, supposedly the best breathing waterproof Goretex membrane, expensive and all. It's probably the best I've had so far, but still not nearly good enough in terms of breathability. Choose layers next to your skin so that you don't feel so cold even if they get wet. I prefer wool myself, especially merino wool.

--J

1. Antiperspirant

2. Fewer clothes

Waterproof outer layer works both ways, so moisture stays inside and you feel sweaty.
Use a non waterproof, windproof shell and save the waterproof for when it is raining.

In choosing windproof materials, I use the Huff test. Hold some of the material against your mouth an give a good huff. If your breath goes through with no resistance, it is not suitable for winter use, If you cant get any breath through, it is not permeable enough. If some air can be forced through, it will be totally windproof and fairly permeable.
When I used to run 2 shells, I could really feel the difference when I switched from my goretex waterproof to my dense-weave polycotton windproof, I was instantly warmer, dryer and cosier.

Dont overdress, you should start the ride cool. Use a sleeveless body-warmer/gillet style insulation over your shell and you can remove it easily if you start to warm up. Merino baselayer is the most comfortable, synthetic wicking layers are OK, cotton is not good if you sweat. It wont kill you or anything for general urban riding (it may do that for more adventurous winter riding). Plain, no-name wicking T shirts are cheaper than cotton at many of the big outdoor stores. You dont need cycling features.

If it's just a little sweat on your chest or coming down from your face, it might be enough to wipe your skin with a bandana and then lash it to your bike to dry. You might need a couple bandanas.

This probably doesn't apply to commuting as much as longer cold weather rides but I have a friend that told me about cutting a hole in a towel and throwing it on as a base layer then pulling it out through his collar after it became saturated. Supposedly, and my experience has been this as well, you sweat a lot at first and then the body reduces the sweat output.

I wear full long johns, dockers pants, a sweater, and a light LLBean rainjacket (keeps out wind) on commutes in 30's -50F.

But I sweat alot above the waist under it all, and if I stop riding, I can feel myself start to get chilly as my layers are wet from the sweat.

How to manage sweat so I don't freeze if out riding all day?

PS- I am trying to stay away from cycling specific clothes and Gore-Tex type stuff. Too expensive. Just trying to use regular clothes.

Thanks for the tips.

For 50 F your wearing too much. For 40 F your wearing too much. For 30 F maybe all right.

Swap out long johns with light weight exercise or cycling tights. Not as warm as long johns but will breath better and let sweat escape better and won't hold onto moisture as much as regular long johns. Don't wear tights under pants at 50-40 F. It's too much. Put them on at around 38 F or below.

Sweater is too much for 50-40 F with rain jacket on top. Carry rain jacket at these temperatures but don't wear it unless it rains.

Try Sweater without jacket or jacket without sweater at 50-40 F and use what works the best for you.

At 30 F put the jacket on over sweater. But make sure your rain jacket is breathable type or sweat cannot escape.

Jesus man.. you're wearing a ton of cotton and a rain jacket on top of it, you have pretty much the optimal combination to produce the most amount of sweat. If you wanted to kick it up a notch you could where some trash bags to really seal things up.

^^^ just kidding with you.

Get some merino wool or polyester based clothes, they can be general outdoor performance cloths and not cycling specific. I also use wool knee and arm warmers (which can be worn under normal clothes but still help keep you dry). Merino wool socks are great also, Costco has 4 pair for $12 now.

It's kind of been said, but I'll say it again. Shed layers when you get hot, and put them on when you stop for breaks when you're getting cold.

Opening zippers for ventilation may serve the same purpose as shedding layers.

Wear less. You're making the #1 winter cycling mistake, which is to bundle up. You need something that wicks next to your skin (synthetics like CoolMax, or merino wool - which is softer and doesn't get stinky, so it's worth the extra cost!), and something to protect you from wind, and not a hell of a lot else. Certainly very little insulation, since you will be producing quite a lot of heat through your efforts (bring a sweater or fleece jacket to pop on when you stop).

It's a bit of a balancing act and it's different for each person and each climate region; you'll figure out what works best for you soon enough. But a general rule of thumb is that you should feel a bit cool - not shivering-cold, but close to chilly - before you start out, and you'll warm up pretty soon. Extremities like hands and feet will get colder than your core, so it's kind of the opposite from the conventional wisdom of bundling up the torso.

Jumpin' jellybeans, I'd be soaked with sweat if I wore all that on my commutes in those temperatures. I know you don't want cycling specific stuff, but do yourself a favor and go to Target or somewhere and get a wicking material baselayer shirt. That will help tremendously. Then just layer non-cotton materials for warmth. STAY AWAY FROM COTTON! Cotton is like a sponge, it just gets wet and stays wet and make you cold. Nylon, spandex, polyester, UnderArmor-type stuff is what you need to be looking for.

30-50F is not a range that can be dealt with with one method of dressing. For me personally I have several temperature increments that get different clothing combos in that range. That being said, you are wearing way too much clothing for 40-50F weather and probably even for the 30's. Probably the greatest thing you can do is ditch the sweater, I would never wear a sweater on a bike, too hot.

Sam, I'm a southerner who likes it warm and not particularly tough about cold weather. A couple of days ago the morning commute was low 30's and I wore: running shorts, running shirt, long sleeve jersey, jogging pants. All that was a little warm, but not enough to sweat in. I seem to go through it every winter so far, overdressing at first and arriving sweaty.

Just wear layers of thin, light clothes and gradually try less until you hit your comfort zone.

FWIW in my personal experience, a wind stopping layer that breathes is what is actually essential until it gets down to near freezing once you remove wind chill, it's a lot easier and if your not bogged down with extra layers you're a lot less likely to become a hot/cold mess.

The general consensus in southern Wisconsin is to wear a tight fitting "wicking" layer as a base, usually made out of synthetic materials. It pulls the sweat away from the skin. The middle layer is a little more varied depending on the temperature, length of ride, etc. But the key is the outer layer which should be a waterproof, breathable layer. It allows the sweat to evaporate, which it does pretty quickly in the winter air.

You can't wear anything to stop sweating, the trick is to deal with it in a way that keeps it from accumulating. If you wear a waterproof, non-breathing layer, it will simply keep all of the sweat under the jacket.

I am learning that I am correctly dressed for a cold weather commute if my torso and arms are a little cold when I first get on the bike, as others have mentioned. I always think of that Pulp Fiction scene with the water hose in the back yard where Jules talks about the "chilly morning air" - that is what the start of the commute feels like. I warm up quickly, though. Like others have said, go warm with the finger and ear protection, and go with zero cotton and layered non-cotton under a synthetic windbreaker of some kind. For the legs, I use polyester track warm-up type pants with mesh inside, and I have yet to need anything other than the bike shorts under that down to freezing or so. Experiment and find what works well for you, just remember - layers under a windbreaker, and no cotton!

I am learning that I am correctly dressed for a cold weather commute if my torso and arms are a little cold when I first get on the bike, as others have mentioned.

Torso?
Back you mean. Torso means you have most chances to get a pneumonia because the front won't be enough protected from the wind.

Torso?
Back you mean. Torso means you have most chances to get a pneumonia because the front won't be enough protected from the wind.

Nonsense! Old wives tales. You don't get sick from being cold. You get sick from viruses and bacteria.

I am learning that I am correctly dressed for a cold weather commute if my torso and arms are a little cold when I first get on the bike, as others have mentioned.

I don't see how that would work on a bike.

While backpacking, I do something like this. I get rather cold when I break camp, but I'm on the trail within 10-15 minutes and quickly warm up, especially once the sun rises.

On the bike, I'm finding that I only get colder unless I throw on more clothing. I'll freely admit that I'm struggling to find the right balance between managing sweat and warmth. If I don't figure it out soon, I'll probably go with vapor barrier clothing for this winter season, for example, a vest made with thin foam or reflectix. Then sweating won't matter nearly as much.

I don't see how that would work on a bike.

While backpacking, I do something like this. I get rather cold when I break camp, but I'm on the trail within 10-15 minutes and quickly warm up, especially once the sun rises.

On the bike, I'm finding that I only get colder unless I throw on more clothing. I'll freely admit that I'm struggling to find the right balance between managing sweat and warmth. If I don't figure it out soon, I'll probably go with vapor barrier clothing for this winter season, for example, a vest made with thin foam or reflectix. Then sweating won't matter nearly as much.

Believe it, it does work. One key is breaking the wind on the outer layer - provided you're dry it's the wind that cools you in the summer, winter or any other time. It breaks down to something to wick perspiration on first, thermal layer(s) over that, stopping the air flow last, hopefully ventilated. It's natural to put too much on and feel nice and toasty going out the door, but if you don't feel a bit chilled when you start you'll be sweltering by the time you "warm up".

If I'm dressed correctly and have to wait for a ride to start for 10 minutes or something, I should be shivering uncontrollably. That's dressed correctly. It sounds like the OP is wearing cotton. Never wear cotton. None, like zero. I never wear wool either, except for my socks. Wear nothing but synthetic from the skin out. Never wear waterproof, even if it's raining, unless it's absolutely pouring and you don't ride fast. Of course you'll feel chilly if you stop for a while! If I have to stop and it's not raining, I take my jacket off to let the sweat dry.

The OP wants cheap. That's hard to do. Try Goodwill or some such thrift store. You'll need some sort of polypro undershirt and a pile shirt and a nylon windbreaker. Should be able to find those things. Head is a little harder. If it's really cold you need a balaclava or if it's warmer one of those thin Pearl Izumi skull caps under your helmet. Those aren't too expensive. Legs are harder to find cheap stuff for. You might be able to find some old wool ski pants. You'll need polypro longjohns under them if it's really cold. If it's raining and you can't afford proper rain tights like Pearl Izumi Amfib tights ($155), you'll just have to wear cheap rain pants with leg clips over the wool pants. Basically, if you're sweating a lot, wear thinner layers and nothing waterproof.

Yep, you should be chilly for the first 10-15 min or so. If you're still too cold, ride a little harder. ;)

Yep, you should be chilly for the first 10-15 min or so. If you're still too cold, ride a little harder. ;)

Another +1 to being chilly for the first 10-15 min or so ... but if you're still chilly after about 20 minutes on the bike, it's time to add another layer.


That said, I had a 30 minute commute to work when I lived in Winnipeg, and I would dress so that I was warm from the moment I left the apartment. I didn't want to be chilly for the first 15 minutes of my ride.

Walmart and target both have cheap wicking base layer stuff for sale. I like a nice wool sweater for my mid layer, think used at a goodwill or such, mine average about $5.00. Find a running store for tights, maybe 20-30$.

All of this is pretty much on the money. I'd sum it up by saying the following:

1. You should have NO cotton on.
2. Ideally your outerwear is windproof on the front but breathable on the back.
3. Don't wear any waterproof layers that can trap perspiration inside.
4. Dress so that you are almost uncomfortably cold when you start out, assuming you are riding strong enough to warm yourself. Or....be prepared to stop after 15min and remove a layer.
5. You can't dress properly if you can't afford to get away from cotton.
6. Several thin layers will work better than a few heavy layers because you can mix and match better and finely tune your needs from day to day.

To all of this I would add that about every 10F you need a different layering. Riding at 40F needs a bit different layering than riding at 50F. It might be just a different glove or a thicker sock or it might be another thin layer on your torso but you can't expect the clothing you wear at 30F to work at 50F or 10F.

the trick is a wind block layer and a base layer with appropriate venting. use thermal layers sparingly.

regular dress clothes have no place in winter cycling, just accept it, sorry :-)

Another +1 to being chilly for the first 10-15 min or so ... but if you're still chilly after about 20 minutes on the bike, it's time to add another layer.

This I can agree with, and goes along with what I've said earlier. To add and remove layers as needed. Bluish Green didn't mention adding layers, and I just don't see how starting cold will work out on a cold ride without adding more layers later in the ride.

I wear full long johns, dockers pants, a sweater, and a light LLBean rainjacket (keeps out wind) on commutes in 30's -50F.

But I sweat alot above the waist under it all, and if I stop riding, I can feel myself start to get chilly as my layers are wet from the sweat.

How to manage sweat so I don't freeze if out riding all day?

PS- I am trying to stay away from cycling specific clothes and Gore-Tex type stuff. Too expensive. Just trying to use regular clothes.

Thanks for the tips.

If it were me, I'd dump the longjohns and jacket.

This I can agree with, and goes along with what I've said earlier. To add and remove layers as needed. Bluish Green didn't mention adding layers, and I just don't see how starting cold will work out on a cold ride without adding more layers later in the ride.

If you're chilly only in the first 15 minutes of the ride, you'll discover that you'll warm up as your blood starts to circulate.

If you're still chilly after about 20 minutes, your blood circulation isn't going to warm you up and you'll need to add layers.

the trick is a wind block layer and a base layer with appropriate venting. use thermal layers sparingly.

regular dress clothes have no place in winter cycling, just accept it, sorry :-)


A mountain climber friend recommended exactly your first part--so much hi-tech clothes available now it's amazing. OTOH the specialized stuff is pricey...last week some guy got killed by gangsters who wanted his nice Helly-Hansen jacket. Wicking base layer is great but some of the other stuff can be improvised even with "dress clothes". Thrift shops sell wool & poly slacks that can be nicely warm--I've bought some that are actually too toasty for DC winter weather. While I'm not too fussy about cold weather I don't buy some posters' idea to be cold for first 20 minutes of ride. Overdressing can be a problem but I would recommend unzipping jacket or pulling up sweater sleeves after warming up.

snip I've bought some that are actually too toasty for DC winter weather. snip I don't buy some posters' idea to be cold for first 20 minutes of ride. Overdressing can be a problem but I would recommend unzipping jacket or pulling up sweater sleeves after warming up.

I may be ...certainly am one of the folks commenting about the need to be cold during the first ...I'd say 10-15min of the ride. I lose track of what I may have said but typically I'd also say "...or be prepared to remove a layer after 15min...". In DC you're probably quite correct that there is no need to start out chilly but that's because it never gets cold and you never ride hard in D.C. (Hah! Pow! Just KiDDInG!).
But in point of fact, my comments are with respect to cold, northern winter riding. The colder it gets the more of an issue that sweat becomes. Over heating...just working hard and being comfortably warm at the start...will result in a lot of sweat building up and if you end up with a flat after riding for an hour while being very sweaty it can be a serious problem at -20F or anything approaching those temps (which I ride in commonly). It's pretty much a given in my home area that you leave chilly or you are ready to stop after a fairly short bit of time and remove a layer. Your outer layer is invariably a windstop so typically removing a layer means removing your windstop and then taking a layer off. pain in the butt. so I suggest sucking it up for 15min.
So unzipping your jacket or rolling up your sweater (seriously?) sleeves may work on the sidewalk in D.C. (again...just some ribbing here...) at 10mph but on icy northern roads when you're working hard with studded tires at a fast 13mph....you can start cold or strip a layer. two choices, or I guess you can also just sweat and eventually, someday learn the lesson the hard way.

I may be ...certainly am one of the folks commenting about the need to be cold during the first ...I'd say 10-15min of the ride. I lose track of what I may have said but typically I'd also say "...or be prepared to remove a layer after 15min...". In DC you're probably quite correct that there is no need to start out chilly but that's because it never gets cold and you never ride hard in D.C. (Hah! Pow! Just KiDDInG!).
But in point of fact, my comments are with respect to cold, northern winter riding. The colder it gets the more of an issue that sweat becomes. Over heating...just working hard and being comfortably warm at the start...will result in a lot of sweat building up and if you end up with a flat after riding for an hour while being very sweaty it can be a serious problem at -20F or anything approaching those temps (which I ride in commonly). It's pretty much a given in my home area that you leave chilly or you are ready to stop after a fairly short bit of time and remove a layer. Your outer layer is invariably a windstop so typically removing a layer means removing your windstop and then taking a layer off. pain in the butt. so I suggest sucking it up for 15min.
So unzipping your jacket or rolling up your sweater (seriously?) sleeves may work on the sidewalk in D.C. (again...just some ribbing here...) at 10mph but on icy northern roads when you're working hard with studded tires at a fast 13mph....you can start cold or strip a layer. two choices, or I guess you can also just sweat and eventually, someday learn the lesson the hard way.


Yes at 10 F staying warm but not soggy is a lot more critical than at 25/35 which is typical of DC winter. Still I've never liked to get sweaty in the cold even if only to save having to wash tights or long underwear after each ride. BTW it's sort of funny how lots of DC folks bundle up when the weather turns cool (well most don't bike/jog/walk at all when the weather turns nippy). At 40 F you see even fit riders wearing gloves/booties/balaclavas...some casual walkers wearing their parkas. IMHO at those temps it's a good time to get used to the cold by not bundling up too much. I don't even like to wear pants/tights unless below 45 F...the legs are working so they get circulation...the minor heat loss is balanced by sufficient upper garments.

BTW once saw an int'l pro race stage in Richmond VA, unseasonably chilly low 40's & raining--it was back in the 80's when pro riders almost never wore tights while racing (macho thing?). So after the stage I saw the riders gathering in the hotel lobby--a Scandinavian rider was shivering uncontrollably, IIRC he hadn't even been wearing a long-sleeve jersey.

I would add it takes only one wrong layer in the system to build up sweat. If one layer doesn't let the sweat go away as much as the other layers, the sweat will just build up there.

If by "long-johns" you mean those waffle weave cotton underwear, get rid of them, they are a liability. As mentioned, the big box stores carry store brands of polyester or polypropylene base layers at reasonable prices that will help wick moisture away from your skin and dry quickly. If your sweater is merino wool and not overly heavy, all is good there. If it is acrylic or acrylic cotton, they can trap and hold moisture. Also mentioned above, waterproof rain jackets don't breathe enough to control moisture.

Try farm stores or stores specializing in outdoor work wear. They will have various weights and styles of base layers, mid-layers, jackets, socks, etc. designed for people who do physical labor outdoors in cold weather. The cost of work wear is often quite a bit less that sport specific wear of the same capabilities.

I've ridden in cycling shorts at 32 degree F with no snow on the ground. At the end of the winter I will probably do it again. It's much easier to ride in cold weather once the body has acclimated to riding in cold weather. To get acclimated you have to be out riding in the cold weather for long stretches daily. Not 5-10 minutes here or there but 2-3 hours at a stretch. Let the body get use to riding in cold conditions and it will.

Typically when its between upper teens and upper 40s all I ride in:
Duofold Varitherm zip top long sleeve shirt with a windbreaker jacket on top of that
Cycling tights with windbreaker pants
Wool pop top mittens and socks
Booties on the cycling shoes
Cotton sweatband with a fleece sweatband to cover the ears on top of that
Ski googles

That's all I ride with until it gets down into the middle teens. Actually I was out yesterday first thing in the morning 16 degrees F with that on. I did decide to add the fleece top on after I got home from the library.

Quite often my back is sweaty, the rest of me isn't bad. By using the Duofold top I have found that itt dries very fast so I don't get too worried about sweat. The biggest thing as others have pointed out...start off cold otherwise you will be cold later on. Use those muscles to warm you up and not the clothing.

One thing I never do unless it warms up big time...I never remove layers of clothing during the day. I dress appropriately before I ever leave home. I look at it simply, sweat is the enemy during the winter months...being cold isn't. You can always ride faster, climb hills, etc to generate more body heat. Keeping the head uncovered helps to lose the extra body heat so you don't sweat.

Dude, I get that you are trying to live a Grant Peterson type lifestyle, but if you wanna do stuff in extreme conditions you need the right gear. Sierra Trading Post has good stuff cheap
http://www.sierratradingpost.com/wickers-long-underwear-shirt-comfortrel-moisture-wicking-long-sleeve-for-tall-men~p~12102/?filterString=mens-underwear-and-base-layer~d~155%2F&colorFamily=05

Sorry dude but you need the right tool for the job. Doesn't need to have a blingy name brand on it, but it needs to be effective.

No. Cotton. Ever.

I originally posted on how everybody uses 3 layers (wicking/insulating/breathable exterior) in Wisconsin, since then I thought I could clarify/expand on a couple of things.

Like you, my first winter cycling wardrobe was composed of affordable, non-cycling attire. This was when I learned how little you actually need to wear (as long as you're cycling). My outer jacket at that time was an unlined waterproof windbreaker I found at a thrift store. I was warm, yes, but with no venting and a non-breathable outer shell, I basically created my own personal mobile sauna. When I got to the grocery store 5 miles away I was SOAKED with perspiration.

The next winter I found a Nike Therma-Fit jacket for joggers (also at a thrift store). This jacket featured a water-resistant, breathable fabric. The tag only says polyester, but it looks like a really thin neoprene. The difference in my perspiration level once I reached the destination was shockingly different. I don't know if it is because the breathable fabric lets most of the heat & moisture out, or some cool air in to cool you, but it does make a big difference. Additionally, allowing some of the cool air in through the fabric actually feels pretty good, but it isn't enough to make you cold.

The middle layer between the wicking layer and the outer breathable shell is the "adjustment layer." That's where you make the changes according to temperature. This is the place where you can use regular, non-cycling clothes, but as the others have said, you generally want to avoid cotton. In Wisconsin, many winter cyclists use wool.

IMO, if you ride daily during the winter, a good winter cycling jacket is worth the cost. You want to shop around though, because local inventories can vary greatly, and there can big some big differences between winter cycling jackets built for commuting vs. those for touring, etc.

Over the years I have learned to use a synthetic wicking dry tech first layer then a cycling jacket that has venting just in the right places. When the temps get below 20degF, I add just another dry wicking layer and the same jacket. Never use nylon windbreakers or raincoats as they don't breath and you'll feel wet and uncomfortable. I use padded cycling short liners and cycling windproof tights which are windproof in the front and breathable in the rear. I use a thin helmet liner until it gets into the single numbers then a balaclava is neccessary. Wool socks and hiking boots keep the feet comfortable at most temps. Thinsulate gloves most of the time works fine. This method starts me out slightly cool for 5 minutes only then I warm up very soon. At that point, if I feel like I'm starting to sweat, I unzip my jacket a little until if feels like its venting. I always arrive at the office quite comfy after a 1 hour commute. Once you have your personal routine adjusted correctly, it's actually easier and more comfortable than summer riding as your always covered in sweat then no matter what.