Winter Cycling - FROZEN TOES, I tried everything.

As soon as temperature drop below 5 celcius (41f) my right foot toes get cold, when it drop to 0 celcius my right foot toes freeze and my left foot toes get cold. At -5c both feet toes freeze.

I tried everything I could think of: Thermal sock, wool sock, both at the same time. In my cycling shoes, my cycling shoes with shoe cover, plastic bags between the shoe and the shoe cover with no improvement at all.

This morning I tried with my winter boots on, it was a lot better but still my left foot toes were starting to freeze when I got to work this morning ( -5 celcius, 27 kms ride to work ) Last winter I went ice fishing for 10-12 hours with those boots and my feet remained very hot all day long, these are very good boots so I'm a bit discouraged this morning. The only thing I can think of is buying battery heated shoe soles.

Is there something I did wrong? I'm strating to think I have a blood flow problem in my feet.

First go to the doc and check the blood flow issue, there are a few things that can cause this and the doc can rule them out.

Second, have you thought of electric socks? Pretty popular for hunters. Get something that has ULTRA thin wires or they may bother you on the soles since you are pressing on them.

Thirdly I've heard of a few people having iodine deficiency that cased them to get cold, but you are getting cold WHEN it's cold outside, iodine deficiency usually means the person is cold all the time, even when it's warm. In this day and age with iodized salt in so much food it is pretty rare.

Sounds like possible circulation to me, so get that checked out first. At 41°F, I can still wear shorts with a long sleeve shirt and light gloves.

If they dont' find anything, keep your legs warm. When it gets too cold, I have to add to my legs even though they aren't cold. Gotta keep the pipes warm so to speak.

Have you tried felt or wool insoles? That makes all the difference for me.

--J

First, make sure the fit of your combined socks and shoe/boot are loose enough that you are not compressing your foot with the extra layers. Socks need to be loose and have lots of air space to keep you warm.

After that, since your commute is probably more than an hour, when it's below freezing, consider putting a chemical warmer between the socks and over your toes. I wear sandals down to aboiut -5C or -6C and it's enough with two pair wool socks and a chemical warmer over the toes and bent down in front of the toes, although my commute is shorter than you at 20 km each way.

Have you tried felt or wool insoles? That makes all the difference for me.

--J

Didn't think about that, I'll check into it, thanks

since your commute is probably more than an hour, when it's below freezing, consider putting a chemical warmer between the socks and over your toes. I wear sandals down to aboiut -5C or -6C and it's enough with two pair wool socks and a chemical warmer over the toes and bent down in front of the toes, although my commute is shorter than you at 20 km each way.


What do you mean by chemical warmer?

Are you keeping your core warm enough? What about your head/neck/ears/gloves? This morning's temp was 32f, and with my core/head/hands taken care of, my feet weren't too bad (Sidi Dominators, neoprene booties).

If you went ice fishing for a day in those same boots last year without a problem - it ain't the boots! It isn't even cold yet here (Quebec) and you'd be generating more heat pedaling a bike than you ever would ice-fishing! Suggest you follow through with a check-up for blood circulation issues.

Don't forget you adding wind chill when you ride. I have the same issue with both hands and feet in cold weather. Someone already said to basically be sure your shoes are not to tight. That helped me some.

the chemical item that was mentioned are the thermal warmer that are activated when exposed to air. The brand I have used is Heat Factory. Hers is another brand http://www.warmers.com/ItemDetails.aspx?itemid=TWES40&gclid=CMLagLKU3rMCFYw-MgodOlsAhQ called Grabbers. These usually work well. At $1 or so per use a little expensive.

There is such a thing as Reynaud's Syndrome. It's quite common. Seldom to the extent discussed here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raynaud's_phenomenon
but having circulation reduced more than normal by cold is common. Most cyclists I know with this problem have a temperature below which they do not ride. Period. Chemical warmers do help, but for someone with Reynaud's not so much because they don't address the real problem, which is lack of blood flow.

OTOH, the ice fishing thing says maybe that may not be your problem. It could be a saddle or fit problem. Perhaps some saddle, fit, or clothing connected thing is reducing circulation to your legs.

agree strongly with this - First, make sure the fit of your combined socks and shoe/boot are loose enough that you are not compressing your foot with the extra layers. Socks need to be loose and have lots of air space to keep you warm.

This makes a big differnce for me. I also use the chemical wamers for temps below 20F for my 1 hr commute.

Make sure your foot isn't snug in the boot. Several times I've made the mistake of wearing too thick a sock which reduced circulation and made my feet colder. You need to have some wiggle room.

I also wear MEC rain covers over my shoes / boots. The rain cover block the wind and create a little insulating air pocket. With the rain covers I can wear my summer SPD shoes down to about -3C. They also increase the effectiveness of my winter boots down to about -12C for an hour. Beyond that I have electric toe heaters on a pair of insoles.

There's something about cycling that makes my feet colder than just walking. Normally I just wear sneakers all winter long, which I've used to go for 2 hour walks at -15C. I bought my first pair of winter boots in about 15 years just for winter cycling and they still weren't warm enough. At a certain point I need an active heat source for my toes.

The chemical warmers you see in stores need oxygen to function. Unfortunately in a boot there may be inadequate oxygen for them to function. There are gel packets that can be regenerated by boiling. I think the gel ones are one quick shot of heat and will not go for hours like the powder packets will (if they have sufficient oxygen).

Sounds to be a circulation problem.
A cooling of the foot or leg causes your blood vessels to constrict-contract, causing more cooling ... a cascade effect.
If this is a problem restricted to cycling, your saddle is likely the culprit, restricting free blood flow.

Try a different design saddle, a thinner one(?), noseless(?), or at least try canting your saddle to the left, which might allow better, unrestricted, blood flow to your right leg. ... ?

Also, I recommend a thin layer of closed cell foam as a shoe "pad". Better than open cell foam or pads.

Plastic bag between the shoe and the shoe cover doesn't do much especially if your boots are waterproof. Put the plastic bag directly on your feet to avoid contaminate the insulation with sweat. Have you checked if your boots are wet or not? Wet boots can take weeks to dry once they are wet.
Increase blood flow : maybe you could try adding a compression tight to increase deep blood flow in your legs.
Bigger boots if yours are too tights.
Better wind resistance : cut a plastic bottle and add it to the front of your boots to improve the wind resistance. But because you have tried the plastic bag trick my guess is the next point.
Better insulation with wool socks or neo overshoes.

The coldest part of the shoe due to the cold wind is the front on a bicycle. Unfortunately, the toes which are the part of the foot which is the most sensitive to cold are also at the front.
The effect is bigger riding a bicycle than skiing or walking because of the speed of the bicycle and the ground clearance (fluid mechanics: boundary layers)

So , get some winter boots and flat pedals. I like the sorrel type, with a removable felt liner. Or go with an insulated winter hiking boot, good for -40F. Buy them 1 or 2 sizes larger, so you can fit 2 pairs socks. And some chemical toe warmers. They have charcoal and iron powder in them, open them up and they last for 4-6 hours.

So , get some winter boots and flat pedals. I like the sorrel type, with a removable felt liner. Or go with an insulated winter hiking boot, good for -40F. Buy them 1 or 2 sizes larger, so you can fit 2 pairs socks. And some chemical toe warmers. They have charcoal and iron powder in them, open them up and they last for 4-6 hours.

That's the set up I had this morning, my Sorel boots and platform pedals. So I guess I'll try the chemical warmer at least once to see if it works, I'll take an appointement with the Doc and I'll try a different saddle because I sometimes felt numbness in my right foot during longer ride this last summer

You could try these as well, used for outdoor activities.

You squeeze them and they keep ypu warm for hours.

Place them in your shoes between your socks and soles of your shoes, never on bare skin.

http://www.sportswarehouse.co.uk/products/Heat-Pad-Handwarmer.html#.UK09nGfiKKk

That's the set up I had this morning, my Sorel boots and platform pedals. So I guess I'll try the chemical warmer at least once to see if it works, I'll take an appointement with the Doc and I'll try a different saddle because I sometimes felt numbness in my right foot during longer ride this last summer
If those are the same boots that worked for ice fishing, and you get numbness during the summer, then I would look at bike fit rather than a circulation issue. My boyfriend had a similar numbness problem (in his hands) and asked the doctor about it, and he basically waved it off and said "oh yeah, that can happen". He then went to the bike store and they told him his bike was too big - swapping for a shorter stem helped somewhat, but now he's thinking about a new bike.

If it were truly a circulation problem, then I would expect the same thing to happen during other activities.

Or a little bit of everything as changing boots improved the situation without totally solving the problem

There is such a thing as Reynaud's Syndrome. It's quite common. Seldom to the extent discussed here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raynaud's_phenomenon
but having circulation reduced more than normal by cold is common. Most cyclists I know with this problem have a temperature below which they do not ride. Period. Chemical warmers do help, but for someone with Reynaud's not so much because they don't address the real problem, which is lack of blood flow.

OTOH, the ice fishing thing says maybe that may not be your problem. It could be a saddle or fit problem. Perhaps some saddle, fit, or clothing connected thing is reducing circulation to your legs.

Yeah - I have that myself and it can hit just as easily at the beach in the middle of summer as on a cold winter day. The best strategy I've found is to overdress which keeps the core temperature high and increases circulation to the hands and feet in an effort to shed excess heat through them. Underdressing does the opposite and circulation is reduced to the hands and feet to maintain core temperature. Sometimes the reduction is a little ...... out of control.

try canting your saddle to the left, which might allow better, unrestricted, blood flow to your right leg. ... ?
.

What do you mean by 'canting' your saddle?, I'm french speaking so there's some english words that I don't know yet.

What do you mean by 'canting' your saddle?, I'm french speaking so there's some english words that I don't know yet.

Twist or turn saddle or seat a little to the left - should relieve pressure on right inner thigh.
Seat pressure possible near 20-21

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b4/Thigh_arteries_schema_numbered.svg/250px-Thigh_arteries_schema_numbered.svg.png

Here are some guidelines for numbness. The problem with raynaud's syndrom (if it is the case here) is that there is no real explanation of the root of the problem

http://www.sq-lab.com/en/sqlabor-en/ergonomie-en/der-weg-zum-perfekten-fahrradsattel-en/taubheitsgefuehle-der-genitalien-en.html

http://www.sq-lab.com/en/sqlabor-en/ergonomie-en/der-weg-zum-perfekten-fahrradsattel-en/unterschied-zwischen-mann-und-frau-en.html

General tips for numbness: (http://www.sq-lab.com/en/sqlabor-en/ergonomie-en/der-weg-zum-perfekten-fahrradsattel-en/unterschied-zwischen-mann-und-frau-en.html)

Select a more upright sitting position
Ride standing up
Do not ride with a heavy backpack
Increased pedal pressure relieves the pressure on the saddle
Reduced body weight reduces pressure on the saddle
Use thinner seat padding
Sit as far back as possible at the widest area of the saddle
Slope the saddle a little forward/downward
Optimize geometry (SQlab recommends body scanning CRM)



(http://www.sq-lab.com/en/sqlabor-en/ergonomie-en/der-weg-zum-perfekten-fahrradsattel-en/unterschied-zwischen-mann-und-frau-en.html)

Try a wind barrier of some sort. I tried the plastic bag thing with little success. Then I got a pair of Gore City overshoes, they're windproof, and my feet stay plenty warm now. Keeping the effects of windchill off your feet make a world of difference.

Twist or turn saddle or seat a little to the left - should relieve pressure on right inner thigh.
Seat pressure possible near 20-21


Thanks, I'll try that tonight on my way back home

Here are some guidelines for numbness. The problem with raynaud's syndrom (if it is the case here) is that there is no real explanation of the root of the problem

http://www.sq-lab.com/en/sqlabor-en/ergonomie-en/der-weg-zum-perfekten-fahrradsattel-en/taubheitsgefuehle-der-genitalien-en.html

http://www.sq-lab.com/en/sqlabor-en/ergonomie-en/der-weg-zum-perfekten-fahrradsattel-en/unterschied-zwischen-mann-und-frau-en.html

General tips for numbness: (http://www.sq-lab.com/en/sqlabor-en/ergonomie-en/der-weg-zum-perfekten-fahrradsattel-en/unterschied-zwischen-mann-und-frau-en.html)

Select a more upright sitting position
Ride standing up
Do not ride with a heavy backpack
Increased pedal pressure relieves the pressure on the saddle
Reduced body weight reduces pressure on the saddle
Use thinner seat padding
Sit as far back as possible at the widest area of the saddle
Slope the saddle a little forward/downward
Optimize geometry (SQlab recommends body scanning CRM)



(http://www.sq-lab.com/en/sqlabor-en/ergonomie-en/der-weg-zum-perfekten-fahrradsattel-en/unterschied-zwischen-mann-und-frau-en.html)

Thanks for the link, I didn't know they made saddle for that purpose. They must be expensive I guess

Don't know how you used the plastic bag but just to be sure the plastic bag thing must be done properly or not at all. Doing things half way just worsen the situation.
Using only one plastic bag outside of the shoe increase the sweat phenomenon inside the shoe and because there is no other place for the sweat to go it stays there contaminating the insulation which dangerously decrease the insulation level of the shoe.
The only reason to put a plastic bag outside only is under heavy rain conditions.

The vapor barrier technique "with 2 plastic bags or else" works better below -7C and is used mainly to keep the insulation at the same level and should increased the insulation a little bit.
The proper way to use the vapor barrier technique is an insulation layer sealed between 2 rubber layers like in the bunny boots


Thanks for the link, I didn't know they made saddle for that purpose. They must be expensive I guess

Voici un lien vers quelques selles medicales
http://painfreecycling.com/

Don't know how you used the plastic bag but just to be sure the plastic bag thing must be done properly or not at all. Doing things half way just worsen the situation.
Using only one plastic bag outside of the shoe increase the sweat phenomenon inside the shoe and because there is no other place for the sweat to go it stays there contaminating the insulation which dangerously decrease the insulation level of the shoe.
The only reason to put a plastic bag outside only is under heavy rain conditions.

The vapor barrier technique "with 2 plastic bags or else" works better below -7C and is used mainly to keep the insulation at the same level and should increased the insulation a little bit.
The proper way to use the vapor barrier technique is an insulation layer sealed between 2 rubber layers like in the bunny boots



Voici un lien vers quelques selles medicales
http://painfreecycling.com/

I did put the plastic bag between the shoe and the shoe cover, I was hopping to block the wind by doing so but , you are right, the whole shoe was a bit damp at the end of the ride.
With the big Sorel winter boot it's a lot better, my foot started to freeze when I was almost there but still... so I think you may be on the right track with the ''pressure on the wrong spot'' problem.
I'll try canting my seat to the left and have a closer look at the medical sadle if it makes a difference
My shift end at 8 p.m. so I'll know pretty soon

Merci pour le lien vers les selles médicales, le seul probleme sera de savoir laquelle choisir; il y a trop de choix!

Check out my Cold Feet article ...
http://www.machka.net/whatworks/coldfeet.htm

Check out my Cold Feet article ...
http://www.machka.net/whatworks/coldfeet.htm

Very nice article, thanks for the link but what do you think of frozen feet with Sorel boot and wool sock at -5 celcius?

Very nice article, thanks for the link but what do you think of frozen feet with Sorel boot and wool sock at -5 celcius?

Your boots are too tight.

Your boots are too tight.

I'm sure they're big enough, maybe even too large because my feet are very loose even with big wool sock. Is too loose as bad as too tight? If so I could try with another pair of sock.

I'll try canting my seat to the left and have a closer look at the medical sadle if it makes a difference
My shift end at 8 p.m. so I'll know pretty soon

Merci pour le lien vers les selles médicales, le seul probleme sera de savoir laquelle choisir; il y a trop de choix!

Medical saddles are not the ultimate solution even though they can totally relieve the pressure on the perineum (100% vs 40-50% for most saddles) because there is some drawbacks:
-increase pressure on the wrist
-the necessity of a specific riding position
-lack of control on turns and hills


I'm sure they're big enough, maybe even too large because my feet are very loose even with big wool sock. Is too loose as bad as too tight? If so I could try with another pair of sock.

if you have enough room just buy a -100C rated liner from baffin, cut the toes area and insert it inside your boots and you will be good to go.

I'm sure they're big enough, maybe even too large because my feet are very loose even with big wool sock. Is too loose as bad as too tight? If so I could try with another pair of sock.

Have you tried a thin polypro sock with a knee-length wool sock over it? And at -5C you shouldn't have to wear Sorel boots ... try your cycling shoes in a larger size with booties over them.

Also, what's your cadence?

While I agree with Machka that you shouldn't be having these sorts of problems at -5, I just ran across something else that might be worth trying...

Has anyone had experience with heated insoles (http://www.thermacell.com/heated-insoles/products/heated-insoles-foot-warmer-alt?utm_expid=45295007-0&utm_referrer=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.thermacell.com%2Fheated-insoles%2Fproducts%2Fheated-insoles-foot-warmer-alt), these ones or others? I'm thinking they might be good for those really cold days, as well as skiing and snowshoeing. $130 seems worth it if they work.

Also, what's your cadence?
My Cadence? average speed is between 23 to 30 km/h depending on wind force and direction but I never focused on my cadence. Could it be a factor?

Lots of good advice and possible solutions here so far. I'll add these "Toasty Feet" insoles to the list of possible helpful bits. (link below) available at many online retailers,
http://tinyurl.com/bn2mpcu

They use Aerogel to insulate, I have had a set for a few years now, and I would say they increase the temp range of any boot I put them in by 10-15 degrees. They may not be a total solution but they do help. and I have no stake in these only passing on my experience with them. 45NRTH is making a set of Aerogel insoles as well this year called "Jaztronauts" Their stuff is usually pretty well designed, but they're also pretty expensive.

Lots of good advice and possible solutions here so far. I'll add these "Toasty Feet" insoles to the list of possible helpful bits. (link below) available at many online retailers,
http://tinyurl.com/bn2mpcu

They use Aerogel to insulate, I have had a set for a few years now, and I would say they increase the temp range of any boot I put them in by 10-15 degrees. They may not be a total solution but they do help. and I have no stake in these only passing on my experience with them. 45NRTH is making a set of Aerogel insoles as well this year called "Jaztronauts" Their stuff is usually pretty well designed, but they're also pretty expensive.


I believe you don't worry :)
Just to be sure there is a spreadsheet available here with thermal conductivities of common materials and gases which help
After sorting by ascending thermal conductivities, the silicate aerogel comes first after gases

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html



Thermal Conductivity (http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/conductive-heat-transfer-d_428.html) - k - W/(m.K)


Material/Substance
Temperature - 25oC










Carbon dioxide (gas)
0.0146


Propane (gas)
0.015


Argon (gas)
0.016


Ethylene (gas)
0.017


Acetylene (gas)
0.018


Blast furnace gas (gas)
0.02




Silica aerogel

0.02



Urethane foam
0.021


Ammonia (gas)
0.022


Air, athmosphere (gas)
0.024


Nitrogen (gas)
0.024


Oxygen (gas)
0.024


Cotton wool
0.029


Cotton Wool insulation
0.029



The only problem i see is that aerogel is very unstable so in terms of durability = ??

here is how it is made and why it is unstable (technical video and no it's not breaking bad :))
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X24np30GS2o

My Cadence? average speed is between 23 to 30 km/h depending on wind force and direction but I never focused on my cadence. Could it be a factor?

If you're a masher, that might be one reason your feet are getting cold in relatively warm temperatures.

Also, what are you wearing on the rest of your legs?

If you're a masher, that might be one reason your feet are getting cold in relatively warm temperatures.

Also, what are you wearing on the rest of your legs?

I wouldn't describe myself as a masher but I generaly give all I have to get a good work out and do my commute in about an hour.

For my legs I wear a pair of long underwear ( sorry, another english word I don't know) made in some sweat proof material and nylon/polyester pants.

Twist or turn saddle or seat a little to the left - should relieve pressure on right inner thigh.
Seat pressure possible near 20-21


I tried it last night and this morning with no noticeable difference but as I don't feel uncomfortable that way I'll leave it like that and see if it changes anything in the long run.

At $1 or so per use a little expensive.
If you buy in bulk and out of season, you can do better than $1.

Keep in mind you can turn them on and off and thus get two or three uses per pack assuming your ride is an hour or so. Since they run on air/oxygen,the trick is to put them in an airtight after use. They won't keep forever, but this time of year if you are only using them in the mornings and not in the warmer afternoons, a ziploc baggie can help you reuse the same pack once or twice for a total of three mornings to one pack.


Unfortunately in a boot there may be inadequate oxygen for them to function.
My experience is they work fine in boots, as I switch to an insulated boot once winter arrives for sure (early Dec for me). I would say I shopped a long time for these boots to find ones with features I liked and that felt right even though buying two or three sizes too large to provide enough airspace for loose fitting double socks,and probably the oversize boots provide enough air to run the chemical warmers.

A bad riding position or poor saddle usually shows up under normal conditions.
It is worth analysing your whole position. There are bike-fit systems that you can use and some shops offer a fit service. Personally I just read Peter White on Bike Fit (www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm).
When it comes to fit, there is a general arrangement of saddle and bars then there is some fine tuning that you can do to saddle and bar position. Most riders go througha year or so of messing around before they find what works. Most riders also have a cupboard full of saddles that dont work for them.
Most people here advise that a harder saddle is better for eliminating numbness and improving blood flow but it has to be the correct shape to support your sit bones.

Most people here advise that a harder saddle is better for eliminating numbness and improving blood flow but it has to be the correct shape to support your sit bones.

exactly, here are some explanations:

http://technobike.com/files/images/SQlab-fahrradsattel-spezifikation-2012.jpg (numbers with percentage are the pressure relieve percentages, the higher the better, numbers 45-60 are the hardness of the saddles, 60 being harder, 14-18-24cm are the width of the saddles, next column with mm is the length of the saddle)
https://www.ebicycles.com/article/guide-to-bicycle-saddles.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-wdfEcedq8
http://sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html

can be visualized on several websites
http://www.selleroyal.com/Saddles_Category.aspx?c=ergogel
http://www.selleitalia.com/se_it3/idmatch/



Anyway, you can do homemade polar boot liners for about 10$ if you have some loose wool socks and some room in your boots.
What you need:
2 or 3 wool socks with increasing size and not tight
aluminum foil
some tape clear or not, 1 or 2 rolls depending (i use gorilla tape)
2 grocery plastic bags
semi-rigid insoles (optional)

The goal here is to add reflective and waterproof layers to your wool socks to increase the warmth by making aluminum slippers that you will insert inside your wool socks

-first, you put all the socks on
-then the plastic bag above
-then wrap the foot with the aluminum foil (2 layers are better than 1, not too tight on the foot, you can choose to wrap the toes only, half the foot or the whole foot up to the ankle, in the latter situation try to leave more room at the ankle area)

-then tape all the aluminum foil (when you tape try to be as loose as possible especially at the ankle area to avoid blood flow restriction, all the aluminum foil must be recovered with tape) (you could choose to tape the aluminum foil before putting it on your foot, both side tapped is even better, the risk is that it won't mold perfectly)

-then remove your foot, the socks and the plastic bag from the whole package (you can leave the bag inside if you want) (at this stage, you should have an aluminum-tape mix molded to the shape of your foot, similar to toes warmer or slippers depending)
-add some tape at the inner edge of the aluminum-tape toes warmer/slippers-like to make it easier to insert your foot in it later on

-insert the insole inside the smaller wool socks
-then insert the aluminum-tape mix inside the socks and above the insole (it should keep its shape at this stage)

-add the other layers of wool socks that you would normally use in your boots
-it's done (you should have several wool socks layers with the aluminum-tape and the insole inside the smaller wool socks)

When you try it with thin socks on, your feet should go easily inside the aluminum tape mold which is inside your wool socks.

I can't believe no one mentioned the best insulation ever made.I was issued them while in the Navy 30 years ago "SILK"
A silk stocking or a glove dose miracles.

Silk and wool have more or less the same CLO

not a lot to add, but wool felt insoles (w/ reflective material on bottom) have completely changed my commutes. went from three socks to one sock. at 19F.

also have to advocate for loose shoes and lots of wiggle room for the toes.

(currently wearing Sidi Diablo winter MTB boots)

Just to restate the situation - the OP is having issues with cold feet at -5C temperatures with Sorel boot and wool socks with a fit thats not overly tight. Normally that combination is rated for -40C and is used in January and February by snowmobilers who aren't as physically active. I don't think insufficient insulation is the issue. I live in the same province and haven't even started wearing full winter boots yet - it hasn't been cold enough.

Just to restate the situation - the OP is having issues with cold feet at -5C temperatures with Sorel boot and wool socks with a fit thats not overly tight. Normally that combination is rated for -40C and is used in January and February by snowmobilers who aren't as physically active. I don't think insufficient insulation is the issue. I live in the same province and haven't even started wearing full winter boots yet - it hasn't been cold enough.

Have you ever seen any boots rated right?