Bicycle Mechanics - Wheel Building W/Alpine Spokes or Any 2.3 spoke

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Booger1
11-21-12, 11:24 AM
Through the years I've built many wheels for myself and a couple for (still) friends. I'm used to straight or normal 14/15/14 type spokes.
This time,I'm going to use some Alpine spokes(single butted) for some new wheels.Looking at the elbow,now that it is in my hot little hand,I'm not sure my thumb is big enough to lay the bend down against the hub....:)
Will the elbows straighten out on these if I don't try and lay them down? Maybe give them a few love taps with a plastic mallet without mangling the flange?
Lenghtwise,the elbow is fine,no washer needed,but they have a bit bigger radius than I'm used too.
So,try to lay them down some or leave them alone? I would like to lay them down some but their almost thick as the hubs (Shimano Alfine 501 dyno and XT rear disk) and made of steel....
I'm all ears.....
rydaddy
11-21-12, 11:29 AM
I wouldn't leave them alone. I use the handle of a cone wrench to set the spoke line. Place it through the triangle created by the 2 crossing spokes and twist toward the hub. It's easier on the thumbs!
edit: a better explanation (http://wheelfanatyk.blogspot.com/2011/12/wheel-building-tip-no-14-set-spoke-path.html)
TampaRaleigh
11-21-12, 11:35 AM
If you DON'T lay them down, in a couple miles you'll be riding on wheels that look and feel like they are made out of Jell-O. Watch 'em wiggle, see 'em jiggle. I learned that on the first set I built 25+ years ago.
Booger1
11-21-12, 11:45 AM
Thanks....
I always straighten out the crossing some and I actually use the end of a hammer to push on the elbow,but I was just worried some,these things are much bigger than I thought....:) I don't want to crack the flange or something stupid.
Trying to get a good plan of attack before I dive in this weekend.....
Just push them over. You'll see that they're only marginally stiffer than normal 14g elbows once you have the leverage of the flange holding the short end.
Or if your thumb isn't strong enough, you can grab opposite crosses across the wheel and squeeze them inward. That and the tension will properly set the elbows.
3alarmer
11-21-12, 01:25 PM
Sometimes I use a rubber mallet carefully to lay down the outside
spokes so they are supported by the flange. I personally like to do it
after the spokes are laced and spun up, but not under a whole lot
of tension. The insides, I use an old alloy crank arm in the manner
prescribed in the link in #2......but don't believe everything you read
from Hjertberg, or you'll end up riding around on wooden rims.
Apparently, he's not big on pounding, either.............http://www.runemasterstudios.com/graemlins/images/cry2.gif
Booger1
11-21-12, 02:25 PM
Thanks...I'll just treat them like other spokes.
Thanks for the web site,have some more reading to do.
Instead of all this banging around, I just give all the heads-in spokes a little tweak as I lace them up, easy.
3alarmer
11-21-12, 10:00 PM
Instead of all this banging around, I just give all the heads-in spokes a little tweak as I lace them up, easy.
I like banging. It's an outlet for my frustration and deep seated anger..........
Perhaps you'd experience less frustration if you eliminate unnecessary steps from your routine ;)
3alarmer
11-22-12, 01:47 AM
Perhaps you'd experience less frustration if you eliminate unnecessary steps from your routine ;)
Bicycles, mechanics, and wheelbuilding are not the sources of my frustration, Bubs..........it's people I cannot handle.http://www.runemasterstudios.com/graemlins/images/willy_nilly.gif
Booger1
11-22-12, 07:21 PM
Non issue....built up like a normal wheel.....just seemed like it would be alot harder to deal with around the hub.....Nope.
Thanks again for the Wheel Fanatyk site,lots of good stuff.
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