Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Mountain bike Fixie conversion

Hello all.

I just started my first Fixie build. It's off of an old aluminum mountain bike I had growing up. (26 inch Pacific trail), it's a decent frame. Pretty light and durable. It's seen about 2k miles over 4 years. Nothing is mechanically wrong with the bike.

I'm planning on sanding and painting the bike. It I'm not sure what the best paint to use is. What brands have people used in the past with success? I would like to keep it pretty cheap as I have a road bike that takes most of my financial investments in the hobby.

Any suggestions are much appreciated!

I paint my bikes with appiance epoxy from the big box store.

You are not going to get the paint off with sanding, assuming you mean paper. So back up to the stripping phase and evaluate the plan.

As for paint, you'll want a paint that is worthy of the frame, take a look at these (http://amzn.to/10XSgxY).

Also, do you know what you are doing in the way of conversion? Does the bike have horizontal dropouts etc.? I'm just asking because you might want to consider all the factors before you go too far down the road before realizing what a pain it can sometimes be to convert a bike.

Do you mean fixed gear or single speed because the term fixie gets tossed around quite a bit. Alot by would be manufacturers as well. Proof is right if youre actually converting to a fixed gear setup but if youre doing a single speed setup it should be quite a bit more simple. rear wheel setup and a chain tensioner.

You are not going to get the paint off with sanding, assuming you mean paper. So back up to the stripping phase and evaluate the plan.

As for paint, you'll want a paint that is worthy of the frame, take a look at these (http://amzn.to/10XSgxY).

Can always degrease and sand/prep the existing finish, then paint over. I've been able to get some pretty decent finishes without stripping down to bare metal.

The bike has got semi-vertical dropouts. Definitely enough to get good tension the chain. I have a wheel set with a flip flop hub (fixed and single speed freewheel). I think I'm safe as far as the conversion is concerned. It is my first conversion though. So I appreciate the suggestions on what to be aware of.

That's awesome! I thought it was required that I sand to the metal in order to get a good finish. I'm definitely willing to put the time into getting down to the metal if it's worth the better quality finish. But if the added quality isn't worth the extra time I'll take you're suggestions.

Just to clarify, I what does sand/prep entail if I don't have to sand to the metal?

You just want to roughen the surface so that the new coat will stick better.

I guess a wire brush wheel on a hand drill would do well to rough the surface? I any other techniques I should try?

How about some ****in sand paper? haha, wtf.

Roughing the surface requires like 200-300 grit sand paper, not a wire brush.

I couldn't stop giggling hysterically enough to get past the words Pacific Trail to realize you were serious?

Dude, pick up a chrome mid-90s MTB frame on craigslist and bypass about 99% of the angst you're setting yourself up for with that paint idea.

What's the problem with the Pacific? I haven't run into a single problem other than having bought a flip flop hub with a 3/32 cog rather than a 1/8th that fits my chain.

The bike has always served me well. It's a steel that weighs 6 pounds without components.

There IS no problem. Everyone has to start somewhere. If you like it, that's all that really matters because YOU will be the one riding it. Enjoy! :)

I haven't run into a single problem other than having bought a flip flop hub with a 3/32 cog rather than a 1/8th that fits my chain.

Which isn't a "problem" because you can use a 1/8" chain on a 3/32" cog without any issues.

Imo, I've painted a few frames and, for me, if the frame is nice, I'd rather have a professional shop strip the frame in a booth then powdercoat it for $100.00 vs. spending several days in trips to the hardware store, mess in the garage, etc.

Imo, I've painted a few frames and, for me, if the frame is nice, I'd rather have a professional shop strip the frame in a booth then powdercoat it for $100.00 vs. spending several days in trips to the hardware store, mess in the garage, etc.

That's actually an excellent point. Any reputable painters in NYC that people could suggest?

There IS no problem. Everyone has to start somewhere. If you like it, that's all that really matters because YOU will be the one riding it. Enjoy! :)

Thanks! I totally agree. Many cyclist jump to the conclusion that cheaper components are automatically worse components. The two are not mutually inclusive.

There IS no problem. Everyone has to start somewhere. If you like it, that's all that really matters because YOU will be the one riding it. Enjoy! :)


Thanks! I totally agree. Many cyclist jump to the conclusion that cheaper components are automatically worse components. The two are not mutually inclusive.

There IS a problem. There is a host of problems. It is true that you can do what you want, but if you came here for advice you should get it, rather than getting sunshine blown up your skirt. If you were undertaking the project to practice painting, that is one thing. But if you are serious about this project you should be properly advised.

You said the bike is aluminum and then you said it is steel, which is it.
You said you grew up riding the bike, does it still fit you.
You are about to put $100 of paint on a zero dollar frame.
Is the bottom bracket standard
Is the head tube standard
What is the quality of the drop outs, are you going to crush them when you crank down on a track nut

If you take the advice that this frame is no problem, and then you paint it, and then you try to put the headset back in, or upgrade the headset, you might find that the head tube is ovalized, or maybe you will rip it open when you press the new headset in.

What you say about components does not apply here. We are not talking about components, we are talking about the frame. However, it would be very hard to argue that cheap components (we know what this means) can equal the quality of higher-priced components.

If you continue down this road, the only thing you are going to "enjoy" is throwing good money after bad.

There IS a problem. There is a host of problems. It is true that you can do what you want, but if you came here for advice you should get it, rather than getting sunshine blown up your skirt. If you were undertaking the project to practice painting, that is one thing. But if you are serious about this project you should be properly advised.

You said the bike is aluminum and then you said it is steel, which is it.
You said you grew up riding the bike, does it still fit you.
You are about to put $100 of paint on a zero dollar frame.
Is the bottom bracket standard
Is the head tube standard
What is the quality of the drop outs, are you going to crush them when you crank down on a track nut

If you take the advice that this frame is no problem, and then you paint it, and then you try to put the headset back in, or upgrade the headset, you might find that the head tube is ovalized, or maybe you will rip it open when you press the new headset in.

What you say about components does not apply here. We are not talking about components, we are talking about the frame. However, it would be very hard to argue that cheap components (we know what this means) can equal the quality of higher-priced components.

If you continue down this road, the only thing you are going to "enjoy" is throwing good money after bad.

To answer a few of the points you made:
1. I thought the bike was aluminum until I decided to do a Rockwell hardness test on it to find out how stiff the frame is. Having gotten a number that is representative of steel I classified it as a steel bike.

2. I've done my due diligence in terms of inspecting the bike. As a graduated engineer, I've gone over all the aspects of the bike in detail. The bottom bracket housing is a standard 68*117. The headset is in good shape, although I have replaced the bearings just for solidarity. The dropouts are semi horizontal and show no signs of serious wear.

3. The frame is a component of the bike. It's integrity is of issue. It is a low end frame however it is well made and is structurally solid. I'm in no way saying that cheap components will be of the same quality as high end components. I am saying that low end components are not representative of being unusable or mechanically unsound.

4. If the rear hub is properly spaced, and then the reaction of forces from the axel bolts on the frame will be equal and negate each other. The only issue would be interface stress on the sides of the dropouts. Compressive ssive strength of steel (or Even aluminum if I am not being consistent). Is much higher than can be cracked by means of hand tools. Thus cracking the frame from using track bolts would be a result of improper installation of the read wheel.

Not to sound rude or pretentious(I honestly don't mean to be. I I think these forums are riden with people who like to be disruptive rather than helpful. I therefor I appreciate any constructive feedback and try not to be part of the problem) , but what is your point in saying that I will be throwing money away in this project?

I realized that I did not respond to the point on the bike fit. I have test fitted the frame with spare components that I have and my reach, pedal stroke, seat position and seated arch are all pretty good. Definitely not as nice as sitting on my road bike, but good enough that I will be plenty comfortable on my 10 mile commute.

I also have an image of the bike as it stands currently; with the headset, stem, handlebars, crankset, wheelset and chain all fitted and adjusted. I think it looks pretty good so far.

pic.twitter.com/NQB76EQ (http://t.co/NQB76EQ)

I thought the bike was aluminum until I decided to do a Rockwell hardness test on it to find out how stiff the frame is. Having gotten a number that is representative of steel I classified it as a steel bike.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1fm5vP_xb3s/UKT967xV3AI/AAAAAAAAE84/796x_xMNVb4/s1600/confused.gif


As a graduated engineer

This explains why you're overcomplicating every aspect of everything.

You couldn't tell just by looking at it?

To answer a few of the points you made:
1. I thought the bike was aluminum until I decided to do a Rockwell hardness test on it to find out how stiff the frame is. Having gotten a number that is representative of steel I classified it as a steel bike.


Try a magnet, dude.



2. I've done my due diligence in terms of inspecting the bike. As a graduated engineer, I've gone over all the aspects of the bike in detail. The bottom bracket housing is a standard 68*117. The headset is in good shape, although I have replaced the bearings just for solidarity. The dropouts are semi horizontal and show no signs of serious wear.


If by bottom bracket housing you mean BB shell then the 68 part is standard. 117 sounds like a spindle width, has nothing to do with the shell. Fresh bearings for solidarity!
http://news.bbc.co.uk/nol/shared/spl/hi/picture_gallery/05/europe_solidarity_in_poland0/img/1.jpg


3. The frame is a component of the bike. It's integrity is of issue. It is a low end frame however it is well made and is structurally solid. I'm in no way saying that cheap components will be of the same quality as high end components. I am saying that low end components are not representative of being unusable or mechanically unsound.

4. If the rear hub is properly spaced, and then the reaction of forces from the axel bolts on the frame will be equal and negate each other. The only issue would be interface stress on the sides of the dropouts. Compressive ssive strength of steel (or Even aluminum if I am not being consistent). Is much higher than can be cracked by means of hand tools. Thus cracking the frame from using track bolts would be a result of improper installation of the read wheel.

You worry about some weird things. Cracking dropouts with track nuts?


Not to sound rude or pretentious(I honestly don't mean to be. I I think these forums are riden with people who like to be disruptive rather than helpful. I therefor I appreciate any constructive feedback and try not to be part of the problem) , but what is your point in saying that I will be throwing money away in this project?

You don't sound pretentious, you just sound like someone with too much book learning and not enough hands-on learning.

Yes you will be throwing money away with this project but you might learn some things. Don't pay someone $100 to paint it. Don't spend more than $10 on painting supplies. Sand then wipe down with alcohol or acetone or something to get all the sanding dust off.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1fm5vP_xb3s/UKT967xV3AI/AAAAAAAAE84/796x_xMNVb4/s1600/confused.gif



This explains why you're overcomplicating every aspect of everything.

You couldn't tell just by looking at it?

What is being over complicated?

The bike is painted, and I don't have the manual anymore. The only way to truly tell the grade of a material without serious effort it to hardness test it.

Words falling on deaf ears.

Just do what you want, because no one here knows sign language.

I don't think you read through the posts.

A magnet is not suffice because it does not tell you the grade of the material. This is important to know for corrosion prevention.

My response about the track nuts is with regards to Bat56's most recent post.

I have been working on mechanical devices since I was 12. I have put together and taken apart many things and have a deep mechanical background.

What exactly am I throwing money away one? If you can't be specific then please stop clogging the thread and allow for constructive conversation to take place. It's defeating the purpose of using a forum.

What is being over complicated?

The bike is painted, and I don't have the manual anymore. The only way to truly tell the grade of a material without serious effort it to hardness test it.

Dude, really? You're building a bicycle, not a rocket ship.

I don't have a fancy engineering degree and can tell whether a frame is steel or aluminum without having to perform a series of tests.


I don't think you read through the posts.

Because they're overcomplicated.


I have been working on mechanical devices since I was 12. I have put together and taken apart many things and have a deep mechanical background.

Yet you don't posses the common sense to know that a 1/8" chain will fit on a 3/32" cog.

Dude, really? You're building a bicycle, not a rocket ship.

I don't have a fancy engineering degree and can tell whether a frame is steel or aluminum without having to perform a series of tests.


You're again missing the point. It was to tell what corrosive properties the material could have. It also helps when you're going to sand down those welds to know what you're working with.

And the weld bead does not tell you what material you're working with. It tells you how it was welded and how good the person is at welding. I know because I weld.

Also you're not being helpful with your responses. You're being confrontational which is not the post of a forum.

Dude, you need to get over yourself. These are all things that are of no importance in converting a low-buck MTB to fixed gear. And yes, it is easy to tell whether a frame is aluminum or steel by looking ath the welds. Aside from that, even on my Dodici Gara - which has smooth welds - I can tell it's made of aluminum just by tapping a fingernail on the down tube.

By the way, you misspelled misspelling.

Dude, really? You're building a bicycle, not a rocket ship.

I don't have a fancy engineering degree and can tell whether a frame is steel or aluminum without having to perform a series of tests.

Because they're overcomplicated.



Yet you don't posses the common sense to know that a 1/8" chain will fit on a 3/32" cog.

If you think they e over complicated then you're not responding to the proper points of the argument. I know that the 1/8th chain won't fit but my issue was in the pitch of the chain not the width. If you read the post you would know this. I would kindly ask you to stop posting if you reuse to be constructive and not educate yourself in the complete text of the thread.

I would kindly ask that you stop posting on this thread if you refuse to be constructive and educate yourself on the full text of this thread.

I know that the 1/8th chain won't fit but my issue was in the pitch of the chain not the width.

Unless you are dealing with a bicycle from the turn of last century (which you are not), there is no difference in pitch between 3/32" drive train components and 1/8".

I don't think you read through the posts.

A magnet is not suffice because it does not tell you the grade of the material. This is important to know for corrosion prevention.

You might wanna know if you're dealing with steel or aluminum before you determine whether it's 1020, 4130, 6061, 7005, etc. Maybe that's just me. Why do you want to know corrosion resistance? Will this bike be parked outdoors 24/7?



What exactly am I throwing money away one? If you can't be specific then please stop clogging the thread and allow for constructive conversation to take place. It's defeating the purpose of using a forum.

It's just stupid to pay someone $100 to paint a $3.50 frame. You can get completes with WAY better frames on CL for half the price of that paint job. Keep an eye out for a 1993 Specialized Rockhopper (or better), KHS Montana, Trek 930 or other 9xx, Giant Iguana or better, Nishiki Colorado or better...

Then find the magic ratio. Get a SS chainring and cog an spacers. Live to ride. Live to ride.

I've converted a REALLY crappy MTB to SS before, but with parts on hand. I couldn't fathom spending real money to do it. I snapped/bent two rear axles on mine. 7-speed freewheel axles are sooo easy to bend/break when you jump a bike. Go freehub if you can.

Unless you are dealing with a bicycle from the turn of last century, there is no difference in pitch between 3/32" drive train components and 1/8".


Which is exactly why I am asking what the issue is with the chain fitting with respect to the width of the cog and not in the pitch of the cog teeth. A response to why this is the case would be helpful.

Dude! I have a bike that is using a 1/8" chain on a 3/32" cog and chainring. Guess what? No problems. What are you not understanding about that?

A 3/32" chain will not work on a 1/8" cog and/or chainring (because they are quite obviously too wide) but the other way around is just fine.

Dude! I have a bike that is using a 1/8" chain on a 3/32" cog and chainring. Guess what? No problems. What are you not understanding about that?

A 3/32" chain will not work on a 1/8" cog and/or chainring (because they are quite obviously too wide) but the other way around is just fine.

Merely anecdotal.

I'm gonna need to see some hardness test data, and perhaps the corrosive properties of said chain.

Merely anecdotal.

I'm gonna need to see some hardness test data, and perhaps the corrosive properties of said chain.

Hahaha, OK you got us. You funny mech. eng. troll.

I apologize, I did say that my 1/8th chain would not fit on my 3/32 cog. I mis-spoke. Clearly. The chain should fit this. I have tried placing my 1./8 chain on my 3/32 cog and I am having an issue of the pitch preventing the chain from sitting nicely on it.

I have tried placing my 1./8 chain on my 3/32 cog and I am having an issue of the pitch preventing the chain from sitting nicely on it.

You could have a very worn out cog if this is the case. Pictures would really help.

I actually just laid my chain length tester on the chain and realized that many of the links are severely stretched. I guess I should have test fitted the drive train with a better chain.

Just put a new sram 3/32 chain on it and it fits nicely all around the cog.

Thanks.

Now, how about some pics???

what most people here are trying to warn you about is you will likely spend more on your conversion than you could on an entire complete new bike if you factor in price of the components plus monetizing the time spent getting everything working together properly.

if you just want the nicest possible bike at the lowest possible price i'd probably agree; but if you are doing this as a learning experience you should absolutely go ahead and spend whatever you feel is justified, just don't be shocked when it ends up costing more than you thought it would/should.

you sound like you did enough research this ***** is actually pretty damn simple. you have the internet's official blessing if you show us some sweet pics when you get it built! ;)

I'm so dying to see pics of the sweet Pacific conversion. He put up that twatter pic link but his account is super secret so I can't see pic. :(

Maybe entire thread is a fishing for followers mission...

twatter

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v166/scrodzilla/gifs/mammygif.gif

OP, start posting with common sense and a non-confrontational tone. So far your thread sucks, big time. Post some questions that, in the scheme of your conversion, actually matter and we'll all be glad to help. Otherwise, I'm gonna start posting about helmets and get this mother shuddown.

he said "helmet"

No need for helmets. Humans skulls score higher on the Rockwell hardness test.

http://img2.timeinc.net/people/i/2007/startracks/071008/brad_pitt300.jpg

287782

287782

What's the question?

What's the question?

"How and why, after doing extensive research and performing so many rigorous tests, did I end up with such a half-assed bike?"