Hybrid Bicycles - help choosing a hybrid

Ok I have a Fuji crosstown comfort bike and a Giant Defy carbon road bike...I want to replace the Fuji with a straight bar hybrid with a lock out suspension fork but not mtb size tires... I looked at the Trek Dual sport and the Fuji Traverse...i dont want to spend a lot but want a decent bike....ideas ???

IMHO, cheap suspension forks don't do much useful. and I dunno, but I never found the front lockout on my full suspension mountain bike to be that useful, its the REAR suspension lockout that prevents power-robbing bobbing while climbing. if your front is bouncing around while you're pedaling, pedal smoother :D

that said, there's plenty of bikes that fit your description, Giant, Specialized, Trek, Jamis, etcetc all make 700c hybrids of various levels. I'd be looking for something with 700x35 or so tires, and probably around $500 unless you want to spend more on lighter bling-bling, but then you get up into the 'flatbar road bike' class and you already /have/ a nice road bike.....

Most bikes in this class tend to come with too-high handlebars, but thats pretty easily rectified (an aluminum straight bar is quite inexpensive, and lowering the stem by removing the excess spacers and cutting the steering tube down is virtually free).

It's all all rigid, but I'm buying my wife a Jamis Coda Sport tomorrow for Christmas. For a few more bucks the Coda Comp gets a carbon fiber fork and few other upgrades. It's a 520 cromo frame; if you want an aluminum frame look at the Kona Dew, or Dew Plus. Cheers

Sounds like you're interested in the Dual Sports. Every brand has them, entry levels typically don't offer lock out forks, though.

And what did you mean by not wanting "mtb size tires"? As in 26" wheel/tire combo? Or do you mean a wide(r) tire in general?

Sounds like you're interested in the Dual Sports. Every brand has them, entry levels typically don't offer lock out forks, though.

And what did you mean by not wanting "mtb size tires"? As in 26" wheel/tire combo? Or do you mean a wide(r) tire in general?

Rather stick with the 700 x 35 or 38 tire nt the fat mountain bike tire
will be doing road and hard pack riding mostly

The Fuji Traverse has the lockout and is only like 500.00....it would seem to be a decent bike..some are telling me "spend more like 800 to 1000 and get better components" not sure for what I want to use it for it would pay off...

Rather stick with the 700 x 35 or 38 tire nt the fat mountain bike tire
will be doing road and hard pack riding mostly

The Fuji Traverse has the lockout and is only like 500.00....it would seem to be a decent bike..some are telling me "spend more like 800 to 1000 and get better components" not sure for what I want to use it for it would pay off...

35-38mm is pretty wide, we only use 32mm on area dirt paths/rail trails, (no single track) and are very happy with the way they handle. Personally, you can always get the more inexpensive machine and "upgrade" the componets latter if you feel you need it. Yes, it's more expensive than getting it at purchase but if you end up happy with the lower level componets, then you didn't waste you money, jmho.

Let's face it none of the Dual Sports come with a "excellent fork", so if you get the cheaper model, (yes, you do want lock out!), when it's TOAST, then spend the BIG bucks for a serious upgrade, that's what I'd do, IF I wanted a Dual Sport. :)

I've run 700 x 40, 38, 35, and 32 on dirt .... the wider tires are more forgiving when you hit stuff like loose gravel, plus give you a softer ride. 38 or 40 can handle some sand and not-too-squishy mud without hardly blinking. you definitely need to watch your tire line more with the 32. that said, I jsut went from 35 to 32 on my current hybrid, hah! oh, none of these bikes had any suspension, I just stand up on the really rough stuff.

cvcman: sounds like you're looking for a Cannondale Bad Boy Ultra or Quick CX1(almost the same thing,just not black). New they're over $1K,but low mileage ones turn up on CL and eBay all the time,and the 2010+ models don't hold their value like the 2009-older made in USA ones.


its the REAR suspension lockout that prevents power-robbing bobbing while climbing.

The front also soaks up power. And non-locking suspension forks can make things interesting when coming down a steep hill at speed. Motorcycles have forks designed to reduce brake-induced dive(progressively wound springs,cartridge units),bikes don't. Locking the fork makes downhill braking easier.


Most bikes in this class tend to come with too-high handlebars, but thats pretty easily rectified (an aluminum straight bar is quite inexpensive, and lowering the stem by removing the excess spacers and cutting the steering tube down is virtually free).

Or just skip the cutting and put the stem under the spacers. Then there's no chance of cutting too much off and messing up the fork.

the 40mm of spacers on top that I ended up with was pretty ugly. I whacked it off :)