Bicycle Mechanics - Using 27" wheels with 105 8 speed cassete or changing to 700c?

If I want to use this on an bike that has 27" wheels.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o319/jonsidneyb/purple%20Trek/105.jpg

Are there any 27" wheels that will accept the cassette? If there is one that will accept this am I still better off moving to 700c?

I am not worried about tire availability. The tires I want to use are available in 27"

I want to know what problems I am going to run into. I will probably not use the brakes as the bike has canti brakes on it.

The bike is a 87 Trek 520.

any 27" rim with the right spoke hole count can be built into a wheel with an appropriate freehub. most any newer road hub will be 130mm nut to nut, while your frame is probably 125 or 127mm, so the frame might need a slight stretch, as long as its steel, thats easy. after you assemble it, check the chain line, you may find you'll want a slightly longer or shorter BB to keep the chain line reasonable. remember that to move the chainrings N mm, you need a BB axle thats 2*N mm bigger or smaller.

edit: the QBP catalog your local bike store probably orders out of has 2 different grades of 27' wheels from Dimension.

If the brake pads will dop 4mm you could use these. http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=2468

any 27" rim with the right spoke hole count can be built into a wheel with an appropriate freehub. most any newer road hub will be 130mm nut to nut, while your frame is probably 125 or 127mm, so the frame might need a slight stretch, as long as its steel, thats easy. after you assemble it, check the chain line, you may find you'll want a slightly longer or shorter BB to keep the chain line reasonable. remember that to move the chainrings N mm, you need a BB axle thats 2*N mm bigger or smaller.

edit: the QBP catalog your local bike store probably orders out of has 2 different grades of 27' wheels from Dimension.

There is no local bike store. I need to go 100 miles to find a bike store.

How do I know what spoke count I will need?

If the brake pads will dop 4mm you could use these. http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=2468

I am trying to avoid going to 700c wheels since the bike was made for 27's and want to avoid having to make changes to the brakes. I only want to go to 700's if I have to.

So, you want to put the 105 on a 1987 520 that you're building up from the bare frame? Am I understanding this right?

If so, just get 700c wheels. I doubt there are that many good 27" wheelsets available with cassette hubs. If you find one, go for it. Feel free to use whatever wheel size you want. But if you are buying new wheels and tires I would just go with 700c.

Your only potential issue is getting the brake pads to drop 4mm, which has not been a problem for me yet and I seriously doubt it would be a problem with cantilever brakes. They are pretty adjustable.

So, you want to put the 105 on a 1987 520 that you're building up from the bare frame? Am I understanding this right?

If so, just get 700c wheels. I doubt there are that many good 27" wheelsets available with cassette hubs. If you find one, go for it. Feel free to use whatever wheel size you want. But if you are buying new wheels and tires I would just go with 700c.

Your only potential issue is getting the brake pads to drop 4mm, which has not been a problem for me yet and I seriously doubt it would be a problem with cantilever brakes. They are pretty adjustable.

This is a bike I am currently using. I was worried about tires and bought a bunch of them. I also thought going to 700c would ruin the lines of the bike. I like the old lugged 520 frame so much I am going to run two of them set up different but working as a back up for each other. I want one to use bar end shifters and be the bike I use for 100 mile each way trips and have the second one set up with brifters (the short range bike). The bar end bike is the simple one, the other bike I have to make other changes. :(

I used to lose tube all time due to tire punctures. I found a place that had a bunch of 27" tires I wanted. I bought several but I suddenly stopped losing tubes when I got the new tires. The gatorskin hardshells seem to be doing their job.

I don't have the second Trek 520 yet but will get one.

if he's going all 105 on the parts, he probably doesn't want Tioga or Sora grade hubs. just saying.

those 27" Dimension wheels I saw had 2200 series hubs, which I think are a grade below Sora ? (yes. Sora is 3x00, Tiagra is 4x00, and 105 is 5x00 series). Ok, Tiagra probably would be OK when matched with older 105 stuff.


Velocity still lists the Synergy rim in 27", available as a 32, 36, and 40 hole. otherwise you're stuck with a really poorly made Alex rim (single walll, sloppy pinned joint), or a SunRingle (chinese) rim of unknown quality.

I still don't think I understand the original question... So you have all these 105 parts, you want to put them on your 520, but you can't because your rear wheel has a freewheel hub instead of a cassette hub? So now you need a cassette hub wheelset?

What I would do in that situation is just buy a cheap Shimano cassette hub and lace it into your existing rear rim. Especially since you have a stockpile of 27" tires.

I still don't think I understand the original question... So you have all these 105 parts, you want to put them on your 520, but you can't because your rear wheel has a freewheel hub instead of a cassette hub? So now you need a cassette hub wheelset?

What I would do in that situation is just buy a cheap Shimano cassette hub and lace it into your existing rear rim. Especially since you have a stockpile of 27" tires.

I have never done this before and didn't know I could get a cassette hub into the old wheel. I got these parts used to use someday. I for some reason thought that there was more different between 27' and 700c wheels. I thought special wheels were needed to use brifters.

That said if I can benefit by getting a better wheel for this in 27' I am willing to do it.

On spoke count, I will need to take a look and count them. When someone posted "enough spokes" Do wheels using cassette hubs need more spokes than before?

Special wheels aren't needed for brifters, it's the hub that matters (and the matching cassette, and RD, which you appear to have in your photo.)


On spoke count, I will need to take a look and count them. When someone posted "enough spokes" Do wheels using cassette hubs need more spokes than before?

No. The "spoke count" just means you have to get a hub with the same number of spoke holes as your rim. You most likely have a 36 hole rim, and if so you would need a 36 hole hub. These are easy to find so don't worry. Then you just need 36 spokes in the proper length to rebuild the wheel. I get the feeling (at this point) you would need someone to do this for you, but if you want to get into wheelbuilding now is the time!

All this is assuming your original rim is still in good shape. If it's not, or near the end of its life, forget the hub swap and just get a new wheel.

actually, modern wheels often have FEWER spokes than classic bike wheels, but this has nothing directly to do with threaded freewheel vs freehub+cassette...

36H was pretty standard in the 70s/80s, then they started down to 32, 28, 26, even 24 or less. I've seen 16 spoke wheels on modern race bikes.

fewer spokes makes a lighter wheel, but if anything goes wrong, you're waiting for a sag wagon. with 36H, you can break a spoke, and probably ride home just by setting the brakes a little wider.

you can get most model hubs in a variety of spoke counts. if you're going to build a new wheel using your existing rims, obviously, the hub has to have the same spoke count as the rim.. if you're going to build new wheels, you want hubs, rims and spokes all to have the same count. the number of spokes and the size of the hub flange, and the spoking pattern determines how long the spokes have to be.

Special wheels aren't needed for brifters, it's the hub that matters (and the matching cassette, and RD, which you appear to have in your photo.)



No. The "spoke count" just means you have to get a hub with the same number of spoke holes as your rim. You most likely have a 36 hole rim, and if so you would need a 36 hole hub. These are easy to find so don't worry. Then you just need 36 spokes in the proper length to rebuild the wheel. I get the feeling (at this point) you would need someone to do this for you, but if you want to get into wheelbuilding now is the time!

All this is assuming your original rim is still in good shape. If it's not, or near the end of its life, forget the hub swap and just get a new wheel.

Thanks, I am starting to understand now. Hmmm, replacing spokes. I will need to read up on this. Maybe it is time to get a new wheel anyway. I wonder if I can buy a wheel with the correct length spokes? This will all be very new to me.

I know this is a very subjective question but how involved is wheel building and will I need a large number of specialized tools?

Edited.

I think I just realized something else and understand now. I need to examine my existing wheels, I have only really looked at the wheels when I have been changing tubes and tires but never really examined how they are put together. The hub is the center attachment point for the spokes. I am finally starting to get it. I think I will fully understand when I look over my wheels and examine how they are put together.

actually, modern wheels often have FEWER spokes than classic bike wheels, but this has nothing directly to do with threaded freewheel vs freehub+cassette...

36H was pretty standard in the 70s/80s, then they started down to 32, 28, 26, even 24 or less. I've seen 16 spoke wheels on modern race bikes.

fewer spokes makes a lighter wheel, but if anything goes wrong, you're waiting for a sag wagon. with 36H, you can break a spoke, and probably ride home just by setting the brakes a little wider.

you can get most model hubs in a variety of spoke counts. if you're going to build a new wheel using your existing rims, obviously, the hub has to have the same spoke count as the rim.. if you're going to build new wheels, you want hubs, rims and spokes all to have the same count. the number of spokes and the size of the hub flange, and the spoking pattern determines how long the spokes have to be.

If strength can be a real issue I think I would want to keep the spoke count up and have a margin of safety. When I go on my 100 mile each way trips I pass through 3 towns all less than 5k people so there is no place I can get parts until I finally arrive at my destination.

I'm a big fan of 36H wheels. I think they have a softer ride than the lower spoke count wheels, which require higher tension. also, 36H is a LOT easier to lace and tune than low count.

I am sure it is not going to be as bad as I think it is going to be. I plan on taking the bike down to the bare frame then put it back together again with the new parts. I need to do this just to know how everything works. Since there is no LBS and I use bikes as my primary transportation I should learn as much as I can about them. Maybe this exercise will make me accumulate all the tools I need to properly take care of bicycles.

I have several bikes that I don't use as they are either in disrepair or they don't fit me as well as the 520.

My plan is to get rid of all the other bikes I have and eventually become a three bike person. A pair of Trek 520's and eventually get a Big Dummy.

The only 27" wheel with I cassette hub I've ever seen is the one I built last weekend. (my first build)

See-
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/863010-Wheelset-Upgrade/page2
post 39

this one is a freehub. but its a really cheap Shimano 2200 series hub (2200 < Sora < Tiagra < 105 < Ultegra < Dura-ace, in Shimano's road lineup).

http://www.aebike.com/Dimension-Value-Series-2-Rear-Wheel-27-Shimano-2200-Silver--CR18-Polished_p_49044.html

it will take 8,9,10 speed cassettes.

this one is a freehub. but its a really cheap Shimano 2200 series hub (2200 < Sora < Tiagra < 105 < Ultegra < Dura-ace, in Shimano's road lineup).

http://www.aebike.com/Dimension-Value-Series-2-Rear-Wheel-27-Shimano-2200-Silver--CR18-Polished_p_49044.html

it will take 8,9,10 speed cassettes.

You can't buy the individual parts for that price.
I'd get that, have the spokes tensioned at the bike shop and you should have a solid wheel as long as you keep the bearings serviced on a semi regular basis.

You also need to do some research and thread searching to see if those levers will have compatible pull to operate canti brakes without travel agents or something similiar.

I think I just realized something else and understand now. I need to examine my existing wheels, I have only really looked at the wheels when I have been changing tubes and tires but never really examined how they are put together. The hub is the center attachment point for the spokes. I am finally starting to get it.


I am sure it is not going to be as bad as I think it is going to be. I plan on taking the bike down to the bare frame then put it back together again with the new parts. I need to do this just to know how everything works. Since there is no LBS and I use bikes as my primary transportation I should learn as much as I can about them. Maybe this exercise will make me accumulate all the tools I need to properly take care of bicycles.

I have several bikes that I don't use as they are either in disrepair or they don't fit me as well as the 520.

Honestly, I think if you try a bare frame build right now you will run into lots of issues and frustration. Better to start slow working on one thing at a time than taking the entire bike apart if you don't know what you're doing. I'd wait to do the component swap on the 520 until you have some more knowledge and tools. Try repairing your other bikes first and get them roadworthy. Then when you have the necessary tools and feel comfortable working on them you can tackle the bigger projects.


You also need to do some research and thread searching to see if those levers will have compatible pull to operate canti brakes without travel agents or something similiar.

They will. Caliper brakes and cantis use the same cable pull. Only V-brakes and most discs are different.

289995http://www.bikeforums.net/images/misc/quote_icon.png Originally Posted by dedhedhttp://www.bikeforums.net/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?p=15083300#post15083300)
You also need to do some research and thread searching to see if those levers will have compatible pull to operate canti brakes without travel agents or something similiar."




"They will. Caliper brakes and cantis use the same cable pull. Only V-brakes and most discs are different."

Yes, the levers will work with cantis but they will wprk best with traditionally shaped cantis, not the low profile styles. The attached photo is an example of a traditional canti style. Note the straddle cable and arm relationship, the arms stick out to the side (not low profile). Just before linier pull brakes came onto the market cantis had "evolved" shape wise so that the arms were much more vertical, or low profile to the wheel. These types will work but really need more cable pull, then what road levers provide, to be best. Andy.

I guess I will need to look at the Cantis that I have and see if I will need to change those as well. At the moment I am going to assume they will work. These cantis are from 1987 if that helps.

one option is to CALL a larger bike shop in the nearest town and have them make a 27" wheel with a hub that will accept a 8 speed cassette and have it shipped to you.

it will cost a more than a existing wheel but you can get exactly what you want instead of getting something you might have to compromise to make it work.

i know this bike shop can make any wheel you want, in any strength quality you want it in.

www.benscycle.net (http://www.benscycle.net)

one option is to CALL a larger bike shop in the nearest town and have them make a 27" wheel with a hub that will accept a 8 speed cassette and have it shipped to you.

it will cost a more than a existing wheel but you can get exactly what you want instead of getting something you might have to compromise to make it work.

i know this bike shop can make any wheel you want, in any strength quality you want it in.

www.benscycle.net (http://www.benscycle.net)

Might work if they listed 27" rims!

Here's a prebuilt 27" wheel with a cassette hub. Not super high quality, which is to be expected being a "just make my bike work" item.

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=51189&category=3656

The 8 speed cassette should fit the freehub body, though you may need a spacer. I've only done a 7 speed cassette with a spacer. I don't know if 8 requires one.

The other question is the spacing at your dropouts. The above wheel would be 130mm spacing. Being a steel frame it can be respaced (or if it's within few mm just get the wheel in there and call it good).

Re: the cantis and 700c wheels thing, some cantis can make the reach down to 700c wheels and some can't. If you're considering going 700c see if you can borrow some wheels to check before commiting. Don't just assume it will work. If it doesn't work with your existing brakes I would check in C&V to see if anyone has done a similar conversion or post a separate question here. You'll need brakes made for short pull road levers to use the brifters. You *might* be able to use some of the new generation linear pull "mini v" brakes with shorter arms that work with road levers if you can get the pads low enough in the slots.

If it were my bike I'd just build a 27" wheel myself on a decent cassette hub and do it that way.

I guess I will need to look at the Cantis that I have and see if I will need to change those as well. At the moment I am going to assume they will work. These cantis are from 1987 if that helps.

Once again, the brakes will work fine with the 105 STI levers. I don't know why people keep bringing up the issue... Your bike already has cantilevers controlled by drop-bar brake levers, so you KNOW it will work. They didn't have V-brakes or V-brake levers in 1987 so your current brake levers are sure to have the same cable pull as the 105 STIs.

the catch-22 with a wheel build is, there's a REALLY limited selection of rims available. All I've found is a single wall Alex X404, a SunRingle CR18 thats probably OK (comes in 32H and 36H), and Velocity has one on their website, but QBP doesn't list it (note that Velocity has just moved from Australia to the USA, and I suspect their supply and availability is still pretty messed up while they get their new USA plant operational). The Alex rim is fairly wide and only suitable for 27x1-1/4 tires, not x1-1/8 or x1. The SunRingle CR18 is 22.5mm wide, and should be able to mount a x1 or 1-1/8 without any problem

...... The SunRingle CR18 is 22.5mm wide, and should be able to mount a x1 or 1-1/8 without any problem

The one I built about 10 days ago measures 17.5MM internal width.
My friends son (who I built it for) got a cheap Bell 27x1-1/4-1-3/8 tire that fit fine.
Except he now couldn't mount the wheel without deflating the tire.

last 27" bike I was fixing up for someone, was a decent double butted cro-mo lugged frame, which had narrow alloy rims and they were nice and straight, so we put some Panaracer Pasela 27x1-1/8's on it, and it was quite sweet riding. The Paselas were classic looking too, with yellow sidewalls that looked right out of the 1970s, so they complemented the bike well.

27 x 1" are about equiv to 25c wide.
27 x 1-1/8 are about 28c wide
and 27 x 1-1/4" are about 32 wide.

Might work if they listed 27" rims!

bens cycle/ milwaukee bicycle is the BEST bike shop in wisconsin.
they found NEW parts for a friends 60's bike he was working on a few years ago.

i would call them and tell them what you need and see if they can help. it doesn't cost anything to ask right? the worse thing that will happen is they say no.

call, or email some bigger bike shops in your area and see if they can help.

in my opinion that would be the easiest way, not the cheapest way, to get exactly what you want.

If I want to use this on an bike that has 27" wheels. Are there any 27" wheels that will accept the cassette? If there is one that will accept this am I still better off moving to 700c? I am not worried about tire availability. The tires I want to use are available in 27" I want to know what problems I am going to run into. I will probably not use the brakes as the bike has canti brakes on it. The bike is a 87 Trek 520.

Basically the farther or more severely you move away from the basic original design and original components of your bike, then higher the odds that you are going to run into something difficult. And I would put ''messing with wheel diameter'' as one of the most likely to run your head into a grinder. I have seen maybe 50 posts from folks starting down the path of moving up or down the diameter puzzle and it always result in a lot of puzzle solving and a lot of money spent to get somewhere near yet another next generation Frankenbike.

So basically my question is "why are you starting down that path"? What is the real motivation. Your frame already has canti studs so it already has the better potential for great brakes and the studs are ugly and/or hard to remove if you aren't using them for brakes. You already know that the 27'' wheels you have now fit your frame and the brakes, etc. If you rear hub is a freewheel hub and the new shiny cogset you just bought is for a shimano freehub that is a no-go, then you should consider that you could just put that cogset aside for your next bike and just go buy another freewheel to fit your existing hub for almost no money (assuming that the existing freewheel is broke or the wrong color or made insulting squeeks at your BFF?).

Above provided just to give you some thinking support before you get fully engaged with the uber geeks here in the Borg Bike Collective (sorry but BBC is taken) and spend thirty hours reading wildly differing opines on the obvious-to-a-blindman merits of 700C vs 27 inch vs 650B... when the real fact is that all of them are round and roll around pretty good. If you find that you want/need a specific type or size of tire and don't see them for sell to fit your rims, then post on that and guaranteed the Collective knows 13 places where they are for sale and on sale in the normal colors plus mauve and purple. [;)

Hope this helps...

Off the shelf 27" is not going to have a Shimano cassette hub,
so someone has to build a wheel for you around that rim type.

there may be efficiency in having the nearest shop [that Phone call]
buy a pair of standard 27" replacement wheels
and dismantle them for the rims. .. new parts..

plan B is Buy a pair of Brake calipers with a longer reach
to go down the 4mm of radius, lost by dropping from ETRO 630 to 622, diameters.
Ie 700c wheels, then a machine built wheel, to save $ is possible..


+ NB the frame wont be wide enough to take a 130 wide rear hub, as is,
a requirement to cram in an 8 speed derailleur hub.

consider just getting a New Bike.

Might work if they listed 27" rims!

Ben's is a really big shop with a lot of history. I'd be surprised if they didn't have a dozen or so 27" rims on a shelf somewhere. At the very least they know enough to source them. I don't believe they're too big to be versatile, like Performance, or too small to afford to do anything they don't do, like, well, we just won't talk about some bad LBS stories ...

the more I think about it, the more I think a Sora/Tiagra hub with that SunRingle CR18 rim, ideally in 36H (my preference for a rear), would be perfect for this, unless a older LBS has some vintage 27" rims that are nicer.

the catch-22 with a wheel build is, there's a REALLY limited selection of rims available. All I've found is a single wall Alex X404, a SunRingle CR18 thats probably OK (comes in 32H and 36H), and Velocity has one on their website, but QBP doesn't list it (note that Velocity has just moved from Australia to the USA, and I suspect their supply and availability is still pretty messed up while they get their new USA plant operational). The Alex rim is fairly wide and only suitable for 27x1-1/4 tires, not x1-1/8 or x1. The SunRingle CR18 is 22.5mm wide, and should be able to mount a x1 or 1-1/8 without any problem

So jsidney, Pierce has a good point: there aren't a lot of good 27" wheels on the market these days. But keep it in perspective: you only need to find enough rims for a pair and perhaps to buy a spare pair for the future, along with some tires. You've decided on 27 for a few good reasons that are important to you: The bike looks right, the bike feels right, you've found some tires that work well for you in your riding in your terrain. People in the various groups here work for weeks buying and swapping to nail down such issues as these. Don't change your plan unless you're forced to.

I think working directly with Ben's is a good idea. You may also find a Chicago shop that could provide similar service, but it is non-mainstream. I also do a lot of non-mainstream stuff, and I hate to try it with an LBS that is not sympathetic to my needs.

Your overall level of newbiness is clear. I'd suggest read as much solid info as you can on-line, but the problem is separating the solid info from the lightweight opinion. This is where some of the traditional books, like "Anybody's Bike Book," any of the Bicycling Magazine maintenance guides, or the Zinn manual on road bike maintenance. The Park Manual is probably the best thing today for up to the minute bike parts, but it's less suited for beginners. I'd also second the suggestion not to bite off more that it would be easy to chew the first time out. You don't need to convert every item on the Trek to the new Shimano group, you just need to get it all done correctly in time. So start easy!

I wonder, would the wheels that come stock on an 80s era Trek 520 be good enough to lace with the new hub?

Bike shops don't have to list all the stuff they can order from their multiple wholesale distributors,
that does not mean the parts are not available .. that is why I said Call on the Telephone!

The issue may be the Frame,, will a 130 wide axle , and its tight fit work adequately
or will you hate working hard to fit the wheel back in after puncture repairs.

Although there is a limited number of decent 27 inch rims out there, one can pick up a pair of cr 18 rims and call it done, have them laced to modern hubs, and then run that 8 speed drive in the vintage Trek 520 and have one really sweet ride.

Cost to build should be around 35.00 per wheel plus parts and the rear hub should be a 130mm spaced road hub to allow a good fit into the Trek's steel frame, the frame will spring enough to allow for the slightly wider hub.

So jsidney, Pierce has a good point: there aren't a lot of good 27" wheels on the market these days. But keep it in perspective: you only need to find enough rims for a pair and perhaps to buy a spare pair for the future, along with some tires. You've decided on 27 for a few good reasons that are important to you: The bike looks right, the bike feels right, you've found some tires that work well for you in your riding in your terrain. People in the various groups here work for weeks buying and swapping to nail down such issues as these. Don't change your plan unless you're forced to.

I think working directly with Ben's is a good idea. You may also find a Chicago shop that could provide similar service, but it is non-mainstream. I also do a lot of non-mainstream stuff, and I hate to try it with an LBS that is not sympathetic to my needs.

Your overall level of newbiness is clear. I'd suggest read as much solid info as you can on-line, but the problem is separating the solid info from the lightweight opinion. This is where some of the traditional books, like "Anybody's Bike Book," any of the Bicycling Magazine maintenance guides, or the Zinn manual on road bike maintenance. The Park Manual is probably the best thing today for up to the minute bike parts, but it's less suited for beginners. I'd also second the suggestion not to bite off more that it would be easy to chew the first time out. You don't need to convert every item on the Trek to the new Shimano group, you just need to get it all done correctly in time. So start easy!


I am a newb at working on bikes. Not a newb at covering a lot of distance on them. 100% of my transportation is by bike and I sometimes have to go on 100 mile trips each way.

I did get something that might make it possible to a slow one piece at a time build. I found and got a second 80's era Trek 520.

It is in fantastic shape.

First how I use the bike and second what I want to do with the pair.

I go to the post office 5 days a week carrying 20 or more packages Tuesday to Friday, on Monday I might have 40 packages and sometimes have to take two trips. I do all my grocery shopping by bike and am in ranch country where some people have 7 mile long dirt driveways. Very low population density areas. I also bicycle to a city once in awhile.

I have needed a backup bike I have found out the hard way. It also took me a long while to find the bike that fit me well and seemed to match what I use a bicycle for most of the time.

Even though they will be a backup to each other I thought about making them different from each other.

The first bike will be the go to the post office and go to the grocery store bike will also be the the town bike. It will eventually have to 105 set up.

The second bike I think might only have one change ever done to it is change the DT shifters to bar end shifters then again it might stay fully stock. The second bike will be the 100 mile trip to the city bike, once I get to edge of the city I lock up the bike and use public transportation..

Of course these two bikes will act as backup to each other so both will have the touring set up that seems to work so well for the things I do.

I don't really pleasure ride, it is all work. My long range plans are getting the pair of 520's set up the way I want them and someday for a third bike in the forum of a Big Dummy for the times I need to haul more than the 520's are capable of.

Off the shelf 27" is not going to have a Shimano cassette hub,
so someone has to build a wheel for you around that rim type.

there may be efficiency in having the nearest shop [that Phone call]
buy a pair of standard 27" replacement wheels
and dismantle them for the rims. .. new parts..

plan B is Buy a pair of Brake calipers with a longer reach
to go down the 4mm of radius, lost by dropping from ETRO 630 to 622, diameters.
Ie 700c wheels, then a machine built wheel, to save $ is possible..


+ NB the frame wont be wide enough to take a 130 wide rear hub, as is,
a requirement to cram in an 8 speed derailleur hub.

consider just getting a New Bike.

I don't trust newer bikes for one reason. This may be unfounded but I am afraid a newer bike would not handle getting knocked over by cattle or getting tossed by a bull having a bad day. I have broken a lot of things. The older bikes seem tougher to me but I don't know if that is all in my head or not.

I am afraid of ending up with a fragile bike if I go newer. I would rather have a heavy bike that can take non-riding abuse that still is OK for long trips than a thin walled bikes that can't take a minor impact.

I don't plan on getting a newer bike except for possibly a Big Dummy someday. I plan on sticking with the 520 till I die.

just built up a pair of 27's using suntour superbe 36h hubs and these http://www.amazon.com/Sun-Alloy-Rim-Polished-Hole/dp/B000AO7EXC they are dead ringers for old red labeled araya 27 x 1's.
if that's any help.

just built up a pair of 27's using suntour superbe 36h hubs and these http://www.amazon.com/Sun-Alloy-Rim-Polished-Hole/dp/B000AO7EXC they are dead ringers for old red labeled araya 27 x 1's.
if that's any help.

I think it depends on what width the OP already has.
If narrow rims, the M13 would be a good choice for "narrow" 27" tires.
If using wider rims., the CR18 would be a better choice.

CR18 is listed @ 22.5MM across the brake tracks. I expect the M13 would be 5MM less?

I think it depends on what width the OP already has.
If narrow rims, the M13 would be a good choice for "narrow" 27" tires.
If using wider rims., the CR18 would be a better choice.

CR18 is listed @ 22.5MM across the brake tracks. I expect the M13 would be 5MM less?

they ARE narrow, i guessing maybe a 20mm to 23mm tire. or 25mm outside. yes i think the 13 in M13II is the inside width.

i've got a couple of wire beaded 27x7/8 schwinn labeled panaracers on there.
and when they are done, i've got two sets of gripfast timetrial kevlar beaded folders waiting in the wings.

If this helps I am using Gatorskin Hardshells. They are the first tire that I have tried that I didn't get constant flats with. I know there might be other tires that would have worked for me but all the others I have tried failed.

When I get a chance I will take a picture of the wheels I currently have. Maybe someone can tell me if they are good enough for this project.to be re-laced.

$50-

http://www.bikesonline.com/dimension-value-series-2-rear-wheel-27-shimano-2200-silver-cr18-polished.htm

Coldset your frame and you're good to go.

$50-

http://www.bikesonline.com/dimension-value-series-2-rear-wheel-27-shimano-2200-silver-cr18-polished.htm

Coldset your frame and you're good to go.

That's a super buy.
I built a similar wheel a couple weeks ago and the parts were >$70.

This rim-
Rim $27+ delivered from Amazon/Niagara
32 spokes $23.50 from Colorado Cyclist. ($16+$7.50 S&H)
The hub is basically free and you don't have to assemble the parts.
Pay your LBS to properly tension the spokes and the wheel should be virtually bomb proof for normal road use.