Commuting - Thinking of getting a rack

Traditional rear racks don't (at least all those I've seen) attach to the rear axle, but to threaded mountings next to the drop-outs, the same size as fender mounting holes. Two struts then affix the top ideally to standard rack mounts on the seat-tube (not post). If you're bike doesn't have the mounting holes/braze ons, you can use special clips on the stays.

Seatpost racks are okay for very light loads, but can't carry the weight of a traditional rack, frequently only taking a lightweight rack pack rather than panniers.

If you do a search under racks ( see box near top right) you'll get other threads that have discussed different brands of rack. Personally I now use a Blackburn EXP 2, which is very strong but on the downside lacks a decent built in reflector/rearlight mount which my previous rack had.

Richard

Odd - it looks like my reply is at the start of the thread :confused:

Two things I forgot are:

Yes panniers effect handling - extra weight at rear can slow cornering, increase braking distance etc. - but unless you heavily load them you won't have a real problem. The major problem I have is carrying the extra weight up stairs if I catch a train.

Never lost a load yet - but get panniers with good fixings (R&K are recommended)

Richard

With a commuting load there is no discernable change in handling. You need heavier shopping/laundry loads to make the front feel a bit light.
Pannier mounting systems are very secure, and can survive potholes, crashes whatever.

Seatpost racks are very heavy for the weight they can carry. They are less secure than normal racks, and can twist when hit. They cantelever the weight out, so increase the stess on the seatpost.
People use them, but for smaller loads, a proper saddlebag (Carradice 15 to 20l model) is a much better solution.

Hi there. I want to start commuting again and wanted a little advice from those in the know (nobody else I know commutes and most of them use their bikes to dry laundry).
I'm not a gear-head and I need some guidance as I know nothing about racks. I used to use a backpack for carrying all of my things and this is part of what contributed to my lack of commuting. It built up an enormous amount of heat and in Atlanta the summers are too hot to add any more to the fire. So I thought about getting a rack.
I have two bikes (MTB and hybrid for road) and was considering a seatpost rack for the ease-of-interchangability factor. Although I haven't seen reasons listed, I get the gist that many people look down on them as an 'inferior choice'. Why?
Fixed-mounted racks appear very sturdy but appear to attach, at one point, to the rear axle. How does this affect the routine flat tire change in the rear? Or does it at all?
Does having added weight in the rear affect the stability of the bike?
Has anyone ever lost their load using a rack?

Thanks so much!

Most bikes have one or two threaded eyelets drilled into each of the rear dropouts. The rack support is bolted to these eyelets. Many bikes have larger, brazed-on threaded inserts on the seat stays, behind the seat tube. The front supports of the rack bolt to these. If your bike lacks these braze-ons, you can use clamps.

These racks are superior to seatpost racks for several reasons. They carry more weight. They can't twist sideways. They add more functionality as a rear mudguard. They also function as pannier racks.

The presence of a rack has no effect on removal of the wheel. And the rack with a normal load of up to, say, 10-15 pounds will have little to no effect on the bike's handling. Get enough stuff back there and sure, you'll start to notice that your front end feels lighter, and that's why some folks with touring bikes add front racks and panniers to distribute the load.

I would suggest getting two racks, or picking one bike to put your rack on and staying with that bike for commuting.

RichC

My Blackburn rear rack (fitted to braze-ons top and bottom) has survived about 18 years.

The front end of my bike only goes light when touring, as my wife sneaks stuff into my panniers and saddlebags to save her the weight. I'm sure I was wheelying most of our last tour, but I'm getting braze ons added for front lowriders when the frame is in for a spruce up.

I use the much-maligned traditional Pletscher "mousetrap" rear racks on my road touring/commuting bikes (Peugeot and Capo), both of which do have rear mudguard/rack eyelets on the dropouts. The Pletscher racks have a great reflector/rear light mounting tab, but the upper clamp assembly can be hard on the seat stays.

I use a Blackburn Mtn. Rack with a BikeBag on top of it on my Schwinn mountain bike, but had to resort to clamps on the seatstays, because there are no dropout eyelets. This is no problem on the right side, because I mounted the clamp to rest on the chain hanging peg, but the left-side clamp does slip and gouge the paint occasionally. I occasionally wish the Blackburn had a mousetrap on it (although the Bike Bag solves this problem), and I had to rig up a reflector mount, but its seat clamp bolt retention system is superior to the Pletscher's seat stay clamp (and much easier on your paint job!).