Bicycle Mechanics - Old Campagnolo BB trashed. What are my options?

Doing some much needed maintenance on my old Trek 560 Pro.
BB started making noise this summer, and now I've got some time during off season to tear into it.
Here's what I found!

290264

Looks like all pieces are shot.
Found a few options on E*Bay to replace it exactly as it is, with an identical Campagnolo 68-ss 114mm BB.
And will check with my LBS to see if hey've got some old stock laying around. You never know....

What other options do I have: Ultegra, DA, UN55, etc.?
It currently measures @ 114mm. I'm only finding 115.5mm to be the next closest available.
Will I encounter any problems going to a 115.5mm?

Thanks for the advice.

One problem, other than spindle length, is that Campy and Shimano don't use the exact same taper geometry. The taper is the same 4° included angle but the end dimensions vary slightly with Campy (ISO taper) being slightly smaller than Shimano (JIS taper). So, installing a Campy crank on a Shimano bb will not allow it to travel as far up the taper as the correct spindle. That said, many users have reported good results with this mix-and-match. The 1.5 mm length difference of the 115 mm bb should not be a problem. However, Shimano did make a 113 mm spindle length in their BB-UNXX cartridge style bottom brackets and this may work well too if you can find one.

Hello Grasscutter. What CampI crank is this? a Nuovo/Super Record type? Unfortunately your options are very limited. You need to use a CampI BB (esp the spindle) because the size/angle of the taper is different from the Japanese ones. Depending on what year your crank is from there is also a difference in the CampI spindle because the CSPC rules changes in '78.

If this is a daily rider I would recomend (and use myself) a Phil Wood BB. They can be pricy but are bullet proof and as you have seen not much pricier than a good old Campi BB.

Post a pic of the back of one of your arms showing all the markings and /or check the vintage trek site to determine the year of your crank.

Doing some much needed maintenance on my old Trek 560 Pro.
BB started making noise this summer, and now I've got some time during off season to tear into it.
Here's what I found!

290264

Looks like all pieces are shot.
Found a few options on E*Bay to replace it exactly as it is, with an identical Campagnolo 68-ss 114mm BB.
And will check with my LBS to see if hey've got some old stock laying around. You never know....

What other options do I have: Ultegra, DA, UN55, etc.?
It currently measures @ 114mm. I'm only finding 115.5mm to be the next closest available.
Will I encounter any problems going to a 115.5mm?

Thanks for the advice.

If you can read off the codes and letters engraved on the back of the crank arms, especially if there's a number or a letter in a shape and say if your cups have little spirals in the bore holes, we can at least look up if there are any alternative spindles in Campy's repertoir.

One issue is that with spindle replacement it's often true that matching length is not enough - the length of the drive side is important.

There are many threads on matching tapers or not matching, I'll let you look it up at Sheldon Brown, since I dont' believe in taking chances with high-end vintage parts.

But I can confirm what spindle you can use, and will offer you mine if you can use it.

Phil Wood BB's offer the same axle type square taper, 1 of their 3 axle types made..

I've used Phil BB's on older Campag cranks, for many years..

The others are JIS, (all the shimano brands you listed) and the current ISO.

the Phil will do the job perfectly.. interior mounting rings*
just need the different Spline fitting tools, they make, to install them.

*[add touch up paint on the BB shell ends]

Yeah...
Just discovered the taper issue. Some say its negligible. Others disagree.

My Trek 560 Pro is a 1986.
Doubtful many of the components are original, as it came to me many years ago, quite mismatched.
Have made upgrades as parts wore out.
So, I'm OK, with upgrading cranks and gearing, if needed, while doing the BB service.

Here's what I'm working with so far:
Years ago, I swapped out 6 speed freewheel for a 7 speed, the original cluster and chain were toast.
Added low end Shimano 7 speed brifters.

290288290289

Here's 2 pics of the crank that came with it:
Teeth look 'OK', is about it. With a chain replacement on my to-do list, maybe now is the time for sprocket upgrades too?
Ideally...I'd be stoked to do an even better upgrade to 8-9speed.... Although with 126mm rear spacing, I realize the limitations.

Get the Phil BB and restore , want modern klick shifter stuff, more 'speeds', go N+1 with a whole new bike.

Phil Wood is the best way to proceed

OH You have a Mavic crank? that is a whole different story and may change your BB otions. Check this site http://velobase.com/ViewBrand.aspx?BrandID=c78fd810-8a46-4321-bd2d-f2e8e0aa8cef&From=T for information on what BB should be used with that crank.

I don't really like the look ofthe taper holes on that driveside arm. Can you post a better pic? maybe a straight on view? Let me see if I can scrounge up some old Mavic data around here.

I am with Bob if your dreaming of 8+ speeds with fancy click shifters a good "new to me" bike may be a better/cheaper option.

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=290288&d=1356540653

OH You have a Mavic crank? that is a whole different story and may change your BB otions. Check this site http://velobase.com/ViewBrand.aspx?BrandID=c78fd810-8a46-4321-bd2d-f2e8e0aa8cef&From=T for information on what BB should be used with that crank.

I don't really like the look ofthe taper holes on that driveside arm. Can you post a better pic? maybe a straight on view? Let me see if I can scrounge up some old Mavic data around here.

I am with Bob if your dreaming of 8+ speeds with fancy click shifters a good "new to me" bike may be a better/cheaper option.

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=290288&d=1356540653B-girl, the OP's state is really unchanged with the Mavic crank it, like most European cranks, use an ISO taper; that would explain the OP's bike having a Campy BB. I looked up the Velobase description and all it says is an ISO 116mm spindle. Since there is no indication if that is a symmetrical spindle, which it most likely is not, the RP will need to measure the end to race and race to race to determine the size for his crank.

290319
290320

Here's a cpl more attempts to show detail on the square taper.

Backside looks nice and square. Front has areas where the fixing bolt threads rubbed on the spider.
Pics aren't the best, and not sure if this is still an issue.

<<<I looked up the Velobase description and all it says is an ISO 116mm spindle. Since there is no indication if that is a symmetrical spindle, which it most likely is not, the OP will need to measure the end to race and race to race to determine the size for his crank.>>>

Enlarge on this, please.

Many bb spindles are assymetrical, that is the drive side projects father from the shell face than the non-drive side to allow more room for the spider and chainrings.

You need three measurements from your old spindle; 1)the over all length, end-to-end, 2) the distance from the drive side bearing track to the drive side end of the spindle and 3) from the non-drive side bearing track to the non-drive side end of the spindle. If 2) and 3) are the same, the spindle is symetrical, if they are different, it is not.

If you get a Phil BB, not only is it adjusted somewhat with the Lock rings, as neither shoulder
against the frame BB shell face.

But it, also, can be pressed sideways through the bearings ,
as the axles have no interior shoulders,
and rely on the precise matching of the bearing ID and the spindle OD.

by that fact you can change the offset ... I have done so, myself,

nothing more than the 2 mounting tools, a flat washer, [span the opening on the tool],
and the bolt that holds the crankarm on as a press.
an adjustable wrench to hold the square , and a crank bolt wrench to turn the bolt.

bolt pulls the spindle through the bearings.

Surely Omaha Has a Bike Shop to go to to get you the right parts..
If not Lincoln would, colleges have more bike Use.

Campag 68SS120 is 112 long, [ for 5 speeds] in the catalog #17
track is shorter, triple and Cross use a longer one.

... there is also the specifics of which one, as there are 2 cup types
and a co-reponding axle for each .. thicker cup has rifling spirals
to expel grit without a contact seal . bearing races in the axle are thus closer together.

bring what you have to the Bike shop and they will call Up Phil and Co.
or get thru one of the distributors they do business with.

problem solved. top shelf .

You could possibly go with smaller name BB, such as Gipiemme, Zeus, Omas or Ofmega

I know a cartridge BB isn't exactly C&V, but Miche makes an ISO tapered BB for like $25.

I recall that Velo Orange has some bottom brackets, with quite a variety of lengths and spanning English, Italian, and a fe other configurations in ISO tapers. I just stuck one on my kid's old Nishiki.

bummer, the VO website seems to be taking the week off...

To restore to C&V status, The #610RD BB Mavic Made for those necessitated chamfer milling the frame, inside the BB Shell.

Doing some much needed maintenance on my old Trek 560 Pro.
BB started making noise this summer, and now I've got some time during off season to tear into it.
Here's what I found!

290264

Looks like all pieces are shot.
Found a few options on E*Bay to replace it exactly as it is, with an identical Campagnolo 68-ss 114mm BB.
And will check with my LBS to see if hey've got some old stock laying around. You never know....

What other options do I have: Ultegra, DA, UN55, etc.?
It currently measures @ 114mm. I'm only finding 115.5mm to be the next closest available.
Will I encounter any problems going to a 115.5mm?

Thanks for the advice.First can we assume the cups are also buggered? As far as a replacement, the current BB you have is a 114.5mm spindle with thick cup(I'll explain later); the Mavic cranksets apparently takes a 116mm spindle, but rarely are these long spindles symmetrical and since you were using a slightly smaller spindle, obviously there is some cross compatibility with other sizes, which is why you need to know the size of your current BB spindle. Campy has hundred BB or so and many are marked the same; ie for a double crank the spindle is marked "SS" and for a triple crank it is marked "SSS"; the "68" means it's for a BSC threaded shell (68mm wide; if it was for an Italian BB it would be marked "70" ), so a spindle with SS 68 means it will fit on of the double cranksets if the BB shell is BSC (there are quite a lot of them); some of the older spindles are also marked 120, but that means it is for a bicycle with 120mm dropouts, it's not the length. While the length does narrow it down you still need to know how much the spindle is offset on the drive side assuming it is asymmetrical. Also Campy made thick wall cups (the ones that are spiral cut like threads in the spindle hole; again from your photo you have a thick cup spindle and cups) and thin wall cups; if the spindle is for a thick wall cup, the races are set back about 3mm to compensate for the thicker cup (so you can't use a thin wall spindle with thick wall cups or visa versa. Hillrider in post #14 explained how to measure the spindle, and then compare the dimensions to another spindle or check the numbers against a list of Campy spindles and cups.

I know a cartridge BB isn't exactly C&V, but Miche makes an ISO tapered BB for like $25.

And since they mount with adapter rings like Phil's, the offset can be adjusted a few millimeters one way or the other. I've been using a couple of them for years. The downside is that they have a steel body, so they're heavy.

Why hasn't anybody mentioned that a Phil Wood BB will cost at least $150? That has always kept me from considering them.

From Compasscycle.com.

http://www.compasscycle.com/bb_SKFBRC_iso.html

Or you could buy three of these and use the change to buy the tool.

http://www.cycleclubsports.com/p-4575-miche-primato-track-bottom-bracket-68-x-115-english.aspx?cagpspn=pla&gclid=CKmm5aCtubQCFSFyQgod-2oATA

B-girl, the OP's state is really unchanged with the Mavic crank it, like most European cranks, use an ISO taper; that would explain the OP's bike having a Campy BB. I looked up the Velobase description and all it says is an ISO 116mm spindle. Since there is no indication if that is a symmetrical spindle, which it most likely is not, the RP will need to measure the end to race and race to race to determine the size for his crank.

Yeah I posted the velobase page link and the starteed digging for my old Mavic stuff. I realized the speccs were virtually the same but, Unfortunately or the OP my my neighbor popped in and cocktail hour started early.

I still think the Phil is the best option if this bike gets heavy miles, and I am even willing to lend my tools to him.

As for the cranks the holes seem to be nice and square it must have been the angle and slight bit of dirt and other stuff that made me think they might be askew.

Or you could buy three of these and use the change to buy the tool.

http://www.cycleclubsports.com/p-4575-miche-primato-track-bottom-bracket-68-x-115-english.aspx?cagpspn=pla&gclid=CKmm5aCtubQCFSFyQgod-2oATAOnce again, the offset will come into play. I believe the Miche 115mm is symmetrical. If the Campy spindle is not, then the OP could end up with a BB that allows the drive side crank arm to hit the chain stay.

OK. *whew*... lots of info here.

Today I searched e*bay and found this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/160945169962?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Seems like its correct?

Would like to restore it to correct C&V, but not necessary @ this time. Plan is to do a correct restore within next couple years.
So...I'm not opposed to putting in a cartridge (temporarily). Giving me time to search for a better selection.
FWIW...and from what I find on vintage-trek, this bike originally came with Shimano 105. Then, when I bought it years ago, it was a mis-match @ best.

Maybe a cartridge is the best option for right now.

Hmm..

Anyways, here's some measurements I took today.

290505

So, it seems the drive side is longer, correct?

There is a 115, here..http://www.philwood.com/products/bbpages/ssbb.php

OK. *whew*... lots of info here.

Today I searched e*bay and found this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/160945169962?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Seems like its correct?

Would like to restore it to correct C&V, but not necessary @ this time. Plan is to do a correct restore within next couple years.
So...I'm not opposed to putting in a cartridge (temporarily). Giving me time to search for a better selection.
FWIW...and from what I find on vintage-trek, this bike originally came with Shimano 105. Then, when I bought it years ago, it was a mis-match @ best.

Maybe a cartridge is the best option for right now.

Hmm..

Anyways, here's some measurements I took today.

290505

So, it seems the drive side is longer, correct?

I wouldn't say it was a mismatch, there's really not enough collectibility in this vintage Trek to worry overmuch about full restoration. It's a great bike and a truly fine frame, but they are great riders. People re-purpose them to touring, commuting, city bikes, randonneuring, 650b, what have you. What's important in all these is to get parts that have the correct threading and dimensions, such as English threading, correct BB lengths for the crank, crank that clears the chain stays, et cetera. You have a bunch of compatibility issues to resolve, but that's just how bike building is.

What Road Fan said about a full restoration. Your bike already has Mavic cranks, which is already a problem. And if you retrofit Campy Record cranks, you'll need a shorter spindle.

The Omas looks like a decent shot--ISO taper, English threading, asymmetrical, and adjustable cups on both sides. On the other hand, it's used and the seller won't take returns.

QBP has closeout Campagnolo Centaur cartridge BBs, English threading, 115.5mm length. They're asymmetric, too, made for triple cranksets or frames with oversize seat tubes that need a longer drive side for the front derailleur to clear the frame. MSRP is $110. Your local bike shop should be able to order one.

The Phil Wood solution looks like the most foolproof but the most expensive. You'll need the BB, the cups, and most likely the splined cup tool, because most shops don't have these anymore. Call around before placing your order. The tool is required because the cups are soft and easily destroyed using "improvised" techniques.

ISO taper, 115mm spindle, $25.

English thread (http://www.amazon.com/Miche-Primato-Bottom-Bracket-English/dp/B002AGC76W)

Italian thread (http://www.amazon.com/Miche-Primato-Bottom-Bracket-Italian/dp/B002AGDWQG)

Save your money, get blingy parts where you can show them off.

I hear what you're saying RoadFan. Guess 'restore' means different things for different folks. I was meaning, that I'd eventually like to have a nice mid-to-upper level full group on it.
And the frame is showing is age.
So, am planning now to get it addressed, before major issues come up.
Shopping / deciding on full group, etc.
The BB issue came up doing winter maintenance...

So, here's my decision on the BB.
Not dropping $150+ on a PhilWoods.
Not going the ultra cheap route @ $25 or so.

This--> http://www.cycleclubsports.com/p-25687-campagnolo-centaur-68-x-1155-bottom-bracket.aspx
Price is good. Seems to be a decent mid-range BB.

Research shows I need Campy tool # 7130036 to install?
Here it is on velomine--> http://www.velomine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=195_196&products_id=806

Seems to be the same freewheel-cassette Park / Shimano tool I've already got?
Is the Campagnolo one specific to their BB's?

Sell the cranks and get something that works with $20 UN xx shimano type BB's and just go for a ride..

Sell the cranks and get something that works with $20 UN xx shimano type BB's and just go for a ride..

+1

I hear what you're saying RoadFan. Guess 'restore' means different things for different folks. I was meaning, that I'd eventually like to have a nice mid-to-upper level full group on it.
And the frame is showing is age.
So, am planning now to get it addressed, before major issues come up.
Shopping / deciding on full group, etc.
The BB issue came up doing winter maintenance...

So, here's my decision on the BB.
Not dropping $150+ on a PhilWoods.
Not going the ultra cheap route @ $25 or so.

This--> http://www.cycleclubsports.com/p-25687-campagnolo-centaur-68-x-1155-bottom-bracket.aspx
Price is good. Seems to be a decent mid-range BB.

Research shows I need Campy tool # 7130036 to install?
Here it is on velomine--> http://www.velomine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=195_196&products_id=806

Seems to be the same freewheel-cassette Park / Shimano tool I've already got?
Is the Campagnolo one specific to their BB's?

The only major issue likely with a high-quality steel frame over time is rust, and only then if it is not protected. If you have it protected from rust it will not change significantly over time except due to abnormal mechanical stresses, such as crashing, crushing tubes, creasing tubes, or causing cracks by deliberate abuse. If you just ride such a frame and protect it from rust, it will remain the way it is for the rest of your life. Really.

Oh yeah: Don't store it in a wet barn where animals will pee on it repeatedly. That stuff is acidic. If it doesn't stay wet, get acid-drenched, crushed and bent, or weakened (thinned) by rust, you don't ahve any "major issues that will come up." You just have a good frame waiting to be built and ridden. This is why people used to say "steel is real." It's NOT a temporary material.

That BB, in terms of bearing quality and workmanship, is as good as anything else; it's not midrange, but a very high-quality part - I have one on my 1984 Trek 610. I think you found the right tool, too! When you install the crank arms on the ends of the BB and slowly bring the torque up, check that the clearance between the crank arm and the chainstay is always several millimeters. 1 mm is most likely too tight for comfort. Don't try to "tighten up these clearances" by over torquing. Do you have a torque wrench? Overtorqueing is one way to destroy your Mavic crank, and so is undertorquing.

heh. my old all campy bike has a Swiss thread BB shell, ugh. there's a campy nuevo record in there from circa 1980, thats still in great shape.

OK. *whew*... lots of info here.

Today I searched e*bay and found this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/160945169962?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Seems like its correct?

Would like to restore it to correct C&V, but not necessary @ this time. Plan is to do a correct restore within next couple years.
So...I'm not opposed to putting in a cartridge (temporarily). Giving me time to search for a better selection.
FWIW...and from what I find on vintage-trek, this bike originally came with Shimano 105. Then, when I bought it years ago, it was a mis-match @ best.

Maybe a cartridge is the best option for right now.

Hmm..

Anyways, here's some measurements I took today.

290505

So, it seems the drive side is longer, correct?

ya, way too much.

just go the lbs and get a shimano cartridge BB that's close to the length of spindle you already have. tell them you may be back if it's the wrong length.

repeat until satisfied...

all Shimano stuff is JIS, The crank in question is ISO. taper fit is different, though both are 2 degree..

so fit a JIS crank and then the JIS type BB will work.

Here's a radical idea. Rebuild it with loose balls and see how it feels.

Unless you ride lots of miles a long way from home on it.

RoadFan: Yeah, it is showing some small rust issues. Ive had it about 7 years. But that leaves lots of years before...
Not rusted out by any means. But there are a few spots on the rear triangle where the paint is bubbling.
It still gets lots of miles, but its not deliberately ridden in the wet anymore.

Looks like the Campy BB I got will last for awhile then. Likely through the frame resto process later on.

Cool.

Appreciate everyones suggestions.

**Yes, I have the correct torque wrench.

all Shimano stuff is JIS, The crank in question is ISO. taper fit is different, though both are 2 degree..
so fit a JIS crank and then the JIS type BB will work.

Or... fit a ISO BB, right? Seems that's the most cost effective way to go.
While shopping, I found plenty of new ISO BB's, for way less than a new JIS Shimano crank.

I'd buy a new Campagnolo Veloce ISO cartridge BB. You will not have any trouble with the 115.5 length, I have done it myself.

Or... fit a ISO BB, right? Seems that's the most cost effective way to go.
While shopping, I found plenty of new ISO BB's, for way less than a new JIS Shimano crank.

Umm, you do know that the one you picked out is an ISO BB, right? Stop thinking this part of it. But the Veloce might be cheaper than the Centaur, and if it's 68 mm and 115.5, you would be golden with that one, too. Takes a different tool!. I've seen the Centaur BB for as low as $35 and as high as $100 (a very ambitious seller!).

RoadFan: Yeah, it is showing some small rust issues. Ive had it about 7 years. But that leaves lots of years before...
Not rusted out by any means. But there are a few spots on the rear triangle where the paint is bubbling.
It still gets lots of miles, but its not deliberately ridden in the wet anymore.

Looks like the Campy BB I got will last for awhile then. Likely through the frame resto process later on.

Cool.

Appreciate everyones suggestions.

**Yes, I have the correct torque wrench.

There are a number of threads here and elsewhere about de-rusting and touching up bike frames. Just do it.

ISO taper, 115mm spindle, $25.

English thread (http://www.amazon.com/Miche-Primato-Bottom-Bracket-English/dp/B002AGC76W)

Italian thread (http://www.amazon.com/Miche-Primato-Bottom-Bracket-Italian/dp/B002AGDWQG)

Save your money, get blingy parts where you can show them off.

Out of stock.

This--> http://www.cycleclubsports.com/p-25687-campagnolo-centaur-68-x-1155-bottom-bracket.aspx
Price is good. Seems to be a decent mid-range BB.

Research shows I need Campy tool # 7130036 to install?
Here it is on velomine--> http://www.velomine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=195_196&products_id=806

Seems to be the same freewheel-cassette Park / Shimano tool I've already got?
Is the Campagnolo one specific to their BB's?

Nice find. The Campy splines are a bit different, but it is the same tool for the bottom bracket and cassette lockring.

A bike shop can install it for a lot less than the Campy tool costs. Or you could get the Park version, here: http://www.excelsports.com/main.asp?page=8&description=BBT-5-FR11C+Campy+BB+and+Cassette+Tool&vendorCode=PARK&major=6&minor=11

Looks like the Campy BB I got will last for awhile then. Cool.

Appreciate everyones suggestions.

You do? Because the majority of the responses here have been misguided, erroneous or excessively complex or expensive. Example: Phil Wood, which is overrated and vastly overpriced.

First off, you have a standard-issue Campy Record English BB. It has the standard length and drive-side offset for the era. ISO taper - obviously. This was the most common BB spec for high-end bikes for many years. They are still relatively easy to find. Many other BBs of the era were built to the same spec, including Gipiemme and Sugino. Do not use a JIS spindle, like Shimano - your crankarms will stick out several mm farther than you want.

Your spindle is pooched - kaput. Your cups may still be good; they are generally a lot harder to kill. The balls are likely dead, but since they will cost you all of $5 to replace, do it as a matter of course.

Try finding another compatible spindle. My recommendation is a Sugino MW-68. Many older shops should have these, or Ebay. I have several pounds of old spindles found in the drawers of shops.

Plan B should be a more recent Campy 115mm unit designed for triples. $40 is reasonable.

Plan C: a new crankset and compatible BB. At a local community bike Co-op this should not set you back more than $100 for something used but still good.

OK. *whew*... lots of info here.

Today I searched e*bay and found this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/160945169962?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Seems like its correct?

Would like to restore it to correct C&V, but not necessary @ this time. Plan is to do a correct restore within next couple years.
So...I'm not opposed to putting in a cartridge (temporarily). Giving me time to search for a better selection.
FWIW...and from what I find on vintage-trek, this bike originally came with Shimano 105. Then, when I bought it years ago, it was a mis-match @ best.

Maybe a cartridge is the best option for right now.

Hmm..

Anyways, here's some measurements I took today.

290505

So, it seems the drive side is longer, correct?Okay, I've checked my manual (been away on vacation) and it appears the measurements for your spindle are actually 31/ 49.5 /34= 114.5mm which is for a thick cup (as I explained before, yours is a thick cup with the spindle hole spirals referred to as rifled. The bottom bracket you have is the standard BB for a post 1978 Nuovo Record Crankset. The near same size BB with a thin cup is 28/54.5/32 which is an old Record/ Gran Sport (both however are marked 68-SS)*. If you would prefer a cartridge BB, these numbers show your spindle has 3-4mm offset. With a 115.5 mm Veloce/Centaur cartridge you should be able to get a good chainline by using a 2-3mm spacer on the driver's side. Otherwise the above spindles are what you will need for a loose ball BB; if you find the latter you will also need the cups..

*There a number of Campy loose ball BB that would work but you would need the measurements to know for sure; something you usually have to ask for.

Your spindle is pooched - kaput. Your cups may still be good; they are generally a lot harder to kill. The balls are likely dead, but since they will cost you all of $5 to replace, do it as a matter of course.

Try finding another compatible spindle. My recommendation is a Sugino MW-68. Many older shops should have these, or Ebay. I have several pounds of old spindles found in the drawers of shops.

Plan B should be a more recent Campy 115mm unit designed for triples. $40 is reasonable.

Plan C: a new crankset and compatible BB. At a local community bike Co-op this should not set you back more than $100 for something used but still good.

Ok, I agree with this order of priorities, given that spindles can be found at reasonable price. I haven't found that to be the case in the admittedly rare occasions I have to look for Campy spindles. I didn't know that the MW68 is a good replacement for his spindle.

I haven't pressed the point about the cup condition. It would be nice to see a decent photo (well lit, well focused, even if not a super close-up) of the races of both cups.

Try finding another compatible spindle. My recommendation is a Sugino MW-68. Many older shops should have these, or Ebay. I have several pounds of old spindles found in the drawers of shops.


You're right about a lot of stuff, especially the pooching of the old spindle, but I could only find 109mm Sugino spindles and no Campy spindles at all, through the usual sources. It's been a couple decades since Campy made a loose-ball bottom bracket. I've found several BBs with short spindles, and short spindles, and one set with a 124.5mm spindle (strictly for triples), but no 114-115mm spindles in stock.

If you're interested in pursuing the NOS/used channel, give these guys a jingle: http://www.renehersestore.com/servlet/StoreFront. 114.5mm spindles are out of stock, but they might be finding some more. And there's always eBay.

You do? Because the majority of the responses here have been misguided, erroneous or excessively complex or expensive. Example: Phil Wood, which is overrated and vastly overpriced.


Yup. I do.
I may not be a professional mechanic, but think I've got the ability to sift through (quickly skipped the Phil), and find what works, for me, my budget, my riding style, and mechanic ability.

<<<Your spindle is pooched - kaput. Your cups may still be good; they are generally a lot harder to kill. The balls are likely dead, but since they will cost you all of $5 to replace, do it as a matter of course.>>>

Cups are shot. Thus a search for cartridge replacement.

<<< Do not use a JIS spindle, like Shimano - your crankarms will stick out several mm farther than you want.
Plan B should be a more recent Campy 115mm unit designed for triples. $40 is reasonable.>>>

So, my Campy Centaur that I ordered will work fine.
This--> http://www.cycleclubsports.com/p-256...m-bracket.aspx (http://www.cycleclubsports.com/p-25687-campagnolo-centaur-68-x-1155-bottom-bracket.aspx)

We'll see how the install goes, when it arrives!

Too late to help but Lickton's in Chicago has the 115.5 mm Veloce bb for $40: http://www.lickbike.com/productpage.php?PART_NUM_SUB='0212-13'

So, my Campy Centaur that I ordered will work fine.
This--> http://www.cycleclubsports.com/p-256...m-bracket.aspx (http://www.cycleclubsports.com/p-25687-campagnolo-centaur-68-x-1155-bottom-bracket.aspx)

We'll see how the install goes, when it arrives!Keep in mind that if you install the Centaur BB and the crank is too far inward, you can always put a spacer behind the drivers side rim of the BB and space it out.