Commuting - what should i upgrade first?

this is my bike i like it a lot but i have upgradeidist http://mountain-bikes.findthebest.com/l/3591/2012-Felt-Nine-Flow

Tires

got these on the way i just wanted to be faster on pavement http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030RSFQ6/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

this is my bike i like it a lot but i have upgradeidist http://mountain-bikes.findthebest.com/l/3591/2012-Felt-Nine-Flow

Recommend that you spend less time looking for advice and approval from strangers about "upgrades", and spend more time riding your bike. You might find that riding is more fun than "upgrading."

I think it depends on how you're using it - off road? Commuting? Both?

As a commuter I'd want a rigid front fork, slick tires, a rack, a bell and lighting. The fork and tires aren't necessarily upgrades, just different purpose equipment.

If you ride on the street you should add a set of street tires.
if it rains where you live you should have mudguards.
if you want to carry stuff in panniers you need a rear rack.

It's not so much upgrading , but, accessorizing..

If you did that at point-of-sale you would have gotten a 10% discount on all of those parts.

For road use, those tires will be better than the stock knobbies.
Your fork has a mechanical "lock out". Use it unless you are going off of paved surfaces.

For tweaks, I'd start with a good quality saddle and ergo grips. Not to imply that the stock saddle is bad, but most folks find that this is an area of "customization" that provides a tangible benefit for their riding comfort. Expect to spend $60-100, and measure your sit bone (http://specialized.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/1181/~/how-to-measure-saddle-size-at-home.) width to get an idea of the saddle width that will suit you. I can personally recommend ergonomic saddles (with the cutout in the middle), as they really do help to eliminate perineal pressure.

For grips, I like Ergon. The GP3 (http://www.ergon-bike.com/us/en/product/gp3) would be a nice choice for that bike, as the integrated bar ends offer an alternate hand position.

The other thing in my opinion would be pedals. If you are content with platform pedals, then a set like this (http://www.sportchalet.com/product/301773_3021150.do?kwid=diamondback+sound+alloy+bike+pedal+1%2F2%22&gclid=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportchalet.com%2Fproduct%2F301773_3021150.do) will offer a nice platform with better quality than the stock pedals.

Next up in my opinion would be brakes. The stock brakes are good, but Avid BB7's with Speed Dial brake levers would make a noticeable improvement. I've used the Tektro Novella, and consider them to be equivalent to Avid BB5, which are okay, but not great.

are there any parts that fail a lot on my bike? the weak links i mean them are what i want to upgrade

Good move.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41WVcKiRIGL._SL500_AA300_.jpg (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images/B0030RSFQ6/ref=dp_image_z_0?ie=UTF8&n=3375251&s=sporting-goods)

Good move.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41WVcKiRIGL._SL500_AA300_.jpg (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images/B0030RSFQ6/ref=dp_image_z_0?ie=UTF8&n=3375251&s=sporting-goods)yeah i should get them tomorow fed ex is briging them got the tubes friday

are there any parts that fail a lot on my bike? the weak links i mean them are what i want to upgrade

The bike you have is of decent enough quality that you should be fine. What prevents "failures" is periodic maintenance and tune-ups (preventative maintenance). If you bought the bike at a LBS, you should get a free tune-up period. Use it. You had a run of bad luck with your old bike, but as you are discovering, there is a difference between your old K-mart special and your new bike.

In the mean time, I'd highly recommend getting to know your bike by learning some bicycle mechanics. If I recall correctly, you are mechanically adept, so this should come easily. Invest in some basic tools (if you don't already have them) and work on your old Denali or more recent mountain bike (if you still have either) - give that sucker a re-build and learn in the process.

When maintaining your bike, one of the first things I'd recommend upgrading when doing a maintenance interval would be the cables and housings. The stock cables are fine for now, but are of "basic" quality - stock on any bike under $1500 - and are not the same quality as aftermarket housings. I like Jagwire, but others are out there. (Gore, Delta).

You did a great job in choosing that bike, IMO. It is a really good platform for upgrading here and there to suit your needs.

cool i have been geting some tools will order a stand next

For road use, those tires will be better than the stock knobbies.
Your fork has a mechanical "lock out". Use it unless you are going off of paved surfaces.

For tweaks, I'd start with a good quality saddle and ergo grips. Not to imply that the stock saddle is bad, but most folks find that this is an area of "customization" that provides a tangible benefit for their riding comfort. Expect to spend $60-100, and measure your sit bone (http://specialized.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/1181/~/how-to-measure-saddle-size-at-home.) width to get an idea of the saddle width that will suit you. I can personally recommend ergonomic saddles (with the cutout in the middle), as they really do help to eliminate perineal pressure.

For grips, I like Ergon. The GP3 (http://www.ergon-bike.com/us/en/product/gp3) would be a nice choice for that bike, as the integrated bar ends offer an alternate hand position.

The other thing in my opinion would be pedals. If you are content with platform pedals, then a set like this (http://www.sportchalet.com/product/301773_3021150.do?kwid=diamondback+sound+alloy+bike+pedal+1%2F2%22&gclid=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportchalet.com%2Fproduct%2F301773_3021150.do) will offer a nice platform with better quality than the stock pedals.

Next up in my opinion would be brakes. The stock brakes are good, but Avid BB7's with Speed Dial brake levers would make a noticeable improvement. I've used the Tektro Novella, and consider them to be equivalent to Avid BB5, which are okay, but not great.

All of these are good suggestions.

Point to keep in mind is that this is a city bike with mtb styling and should be perfect for commuting. All the suggestions mentioned will just make it better for that. Don't waste your time trying to make it into something it was never intended to be.

You just bought a brand new bike. I recommend that you leave it alone and don't do anything to it. Ride your bike for a few months and get a feel for it..and by then you'll know if anything needs upgrading or changing.

For road use, those tires will be better than the stock knobbies...


Yep. For road use, they'll be adequate. For off-road use, they'll just plain suck. Let's not forget, windchaser, what the Felt Nine-Flow is designed and made for. Sure you can replace the fork, replace the tires, replace all the parts and you'll make it into a commuter bike but why? There are lots and lots of bikes out there that have the right fork, the right tires, the right shifters, rack mounts, fender mounts, etc. at a pretty good price without a whole lot of parts swapping. You can keep the Nine Flow as a mountain bike that is great fun to ride off-road...you can even look for trails to ride it off-road on the way to work...while using the other bike for commuting and/or riding fast.

Upgrading can get costly. Upgrade to make the bike do what it was built to do better. Don't 'upgrade' to make it into something it isn't.

Yep. For road use, they'll be adequate. For off-road use, they'll just plain suck. Let's not forget, windchaser, what the Felt Nine-Flow is designed and made for. Sure you can replace the fork, replace the tires, replace all the parts and you'll make it into a commuter bike but why? There are lots and lots of bikes out there that have the right fork, the right tires, the right shifters, rack mounts, fender mounts, etc. at a pretty good price without a whole lot of parts swapping. You can keep the Nine Flow as a mountain bike that is great fun to ride off-road...you can even look for trails to ride it off-road on the way to work...while using the other bike for commuting and/or riding fast.

Upgrading can get costly. Upgrade to make the bike do what it was built to do better. Don't 'upgrade' to make it into something it isn't.
I'm really curious about what he bought this for because, as you suggest, there were likely better options as a commuter than transforming this over to being one. Usually that's something I'd do with a used (cheap) MTB to get a lot of bang for my buck. If he bought this as a commuter, I would change the tires at minimum and gradually add a rack. Maybe he wants a bike capable of both...for a long time I only had one bike; a Cannondale f500 that I put slicks and a rack on. When I went off trail, I'd change tires.

I'm really curious about what he bought this for...
"upgradeidist" in combination with BF posters' encouragement/stimulation of N+1 itis for bikes and components.

Should there be a contest set up to pick the dates for the next new bike purchase and queries on what new stuff should be bought for it?

i went to store to buy another bike a used trek higher end trek but teh trek just looked like it wouldnt be to strong so i asked what would be good for street rideing and the felt came up it was 30 percent off since it was a 2012.

Are you using this bike for commuting? If so how far.

"upgradeidist" in combination with BF posters' encouragement/stimulation of N+1 itis for bikes and components.

Should there be a contest set up to pick the dates for the next new bike purchase and queries on what new stuff should be bought for it?:lol: I'd win/lose. I have the silly fever, as dumb as it is, and often do both. I think I can legitimately justify two bikes and the tandem, but the rest is pretty silly. Yet it makes me happy.

Are you using this bike for commuting? If so how far.

I don't use that bike for commuting but I do have mountain bikes that I use for commuting. Three to them to be exact. The white Stumpjumper is my "main" commuter mountain bike. In winter, I outfit it with fenders as can be seen in the second picture. I even took it for a 20 mile ride yesterday and a 20 mile ride today and will use it for another 20 tomorrow...trying to fill out the year's mileage:rolleyes:

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r181/cyccommute/Bikeforum%20pictures/IMG_0765.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r181/cyccommute/IMGP2561.jpg

The other two are a Moots YBB and a S-Works Epic. I have a mountain behind my work that I can ride up and over whenever I like.

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r181/cyccommute/Bikeforum%20pictures/IMGP2562.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r181/cyccommute/Bikeforum%20pictures/IMGP2566.jpg

All three use the tires you see on them (some components have been changed around). Full off-road knobby tires. Yes, it is slower than my other commuter bikes (I have 4 more) but speed isn't the point. The point is to use them to either break up the monotony of commuting or to enjoy a little bombing down the local trails.

I have, in the past, ridden up to 100 miles (mostly off-road) on a knobby equipped mountain bike. It takes a lot of effort but it's really not all that difficult.

Ok - someone explain the fenders in winter to me; when I tried it, it sucked. The fenders became snow/ice catchers and I still got crap in my chain.

Ok - someone explain the fenders in winter to me; when I tried it, it sucked. The fenders became snow/ice catchers and I still got crap in my chain.

On hardpack, I tend to agree - I minimize the packing by setting the gap closest at the rear of the fender, then slightly wider past that. If it is hardpack and ice, the fenders really don't help.
Where they do help, though is when it is slushy.
Since I run an IGH, my drive train isn't affected that much by muck, and the fenders don't make it any better or worse.

Ok - someone explain the fenders in winter to me; when I tried it, it sucked. The fenders became snow/ice catchers and I still got crap in my chain.

I don't really like them any time of year but there are times when it's nice to keep most of the water and slush off. I would suggest that you look at the fenders on my second picture above. These keep most of the crap off but don't pack up as badly as closer fitting fenders.

Ride the heck out of it and replace what breaks with a higher end replacement. Odds are that will take a long time!

Upgrade the engine :)

I don't really like them any time of year but there are times when it's nice to keep most of the water and slush off. I would suggest that you look at the fenders on my second picture above. These keep most of the crap off but don't pack up as badly as closer fitting fenders.
They don't look like they'd pack snow/slush, but they also don't look like they'd protect you much. The front fender doesn't have much coverage at all.

I don't find fenders especially useful either - not enough to justify the weight, cost and rattle adjustments. The one thing they're nice for is protecting the paint on the dt from rocks...which isn't relevant with an untainted ti frame.

Recommend that you spend less time looking for advice and approval from strangers about "upgrades", and spend more time riding your bike. You might find that riding is more fun than "upgrading."


^^^This. Although, I will add that as you ride more, you will discover what it is you want to upgrade most. If you are anything like the rest of us, this list will likely grow very long in short time, limited only by you budget and/or free time.

Most of these responses are right windchaser, which is a miracle because most of these clowns never get anything right :lol:

Ride ride ride the bike and have yourself a blast, then down the road do an upgrade or two if you find it necessary. Treadtread's comment "upgrade the engine" is good. Especially if this was a recent purchase, put some miles on it!

Ok - someone explain the fenders in winter to me; when I tried it, it sucked. The fenders became snow/ice catchers and I still got crap in my chain.

I love my full fenders and I never had any problems with mine.

They don't look like they'd pack snow/slush, but they also don't look like they'd protect you much. The front fender doesn't have much coverage at all.

I don't find fenders especially useful either - not enough to justify the weight, cost and rattle adjustments. The one thing they're nice for is protecting the paint on the dt from rocks...which isn't relevant with an untainted ti frame.

They do well enough for the kinds of snow we have here in Colorado. Our moisture content tends to run about 10% so even when it melts the snow isn't that sloppy. The front fender does a better job than you think of keeping spray...what little there is of it...off me. And the rear fender does a reasonable job of keeping snow and ice out of the derailer. It's better than nothin';) And, trust me, fenders come off as soon as the threat of snow diminishes to near zero...some time in May.

You just bought a brand new bike. I recommend that you leave it alone and don't do anything to it. Ride your bike for a few months and get a feel for it..and by then you'll know if anything needs upgrading or changing.


Recommend that you spend less time looking for advice and approval from strangers about "upgrades", and spend more time riding your bike. You might find that riding is more fun than "upgrading."

Ride it and enjoy your new bike and get upgrades when you need them

In Seattle fenders are a must, but maybe where the OP is it's not a big deal.

Lights are the other essential commuting accessory. The rest is just details.

got these on the way i just wanted to be faster on pavement http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030RSFQ6/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

Weigh these tires before you put them on your bike. I am not sure if these tires qualify as an "upgrade". Why downgrade to a set of wal-mart tires if you just upgraded from a wal-mart bike. If your goal is be faster on pavement do some research and get a quality tire.

Weigh these tires before you put them on your bike. I am not sure if these tires qualify as an "upgrade". Why downgrade to a set of wal-mart tires if you just upgraded from a wal-mart bike. If your goal is be faster on pavement do some research and get a quality tire.

As long as the tires are inflated nice and hard (65 - 85 psi) then they will offer a benefit. The weight of the tires makes very little difference - the construction of the tire and its ability to rebound without absorbing too much energy is the reall difference, and you can't measure that quality with a scale.

only thing i dont like about the tires was they where folding i had no idea they was folding tires.but i have em on my bike now not bad 2 tires and 2 tubes less then 40 bucks shiped .i also have a mars 4.0 light on rear and a decent front light.thats al the upgrades ill do for now

only thing i dont like about the tires was they where folding i had no idea they was folding tires.but i have em on my bike now not bad 2 tires and 2 tubes less then 40 bucks shiped .i also have a mars 4.0 light on rear and a decent front light.thats al the upgrades ill do for now

Good decision. If there is something causing a problem (either with functionality or with fit/comfort) then replace it, otherwise ride the bike until the wheels fall off... then reattach the wheels and repeat!

As long as the tires are inflated nice and hard (65 - 85 psi) then they will offer a benefit. The weight of the tires makes very little difference - the construction of the tire and its ability to rebound without absorbing too much energy is the reall difference, and you can't measure that quality with a scale.

I'd have to disagree. Lowering the rotational weight in your wheels and tires is one of the most noticeable changes you can make to your bike. His stock tires are ~800 g apiece. Switching to a 400 g tire will be a change/upgrade that he can feel. I agree that you can't measure quality with a scale. But a $13 wire bead tire with no details on weight or tpi sends a pretty strong signal of low quality. I only mention this because the thread topic is about worthwhile upgrades.

By the way, I wouldn't run a 700x38c tire anywhere near 85 psi unless you really want the pavement to beat you up.

By the way, I wouldn't run a 700x38c tire anywhere near 85 psi unless you really want the pavement to beat you up.
Or you and the bike together weigh 400 lbs. Probably somewhere in the low 40s is a better balance of comfort and rolling resistance

http://www.bccclub.org/documents/Tireinflation.pdf

Best upgrade suggestion I saw is a stand. Working on a bike is 10x easier and more enjoyable when you have a stand. Don't necessarily go buy one tomorrow, but figure out a price range, and shop around to get the most bang for your $. It does not need to be fancy, just hold the bike in the air and not fall over when you work on it. I would recommend a free standing one, but I actually made one attached to the side of a garage with wood. It was not so much a stand as a place to hang my bike, but I could work on it and pedal it mounted there. A free standing stand is MUCH nicer.

most likely ill order the park 9 stand

most likely ill order the park 9 stand
that is the one I have, got it for around $90 several years ago, never regretted it.

i hope i can find it for 90 so far i found it for 120 shipped

I got it from either performance or nashbar, it may list for more now then when I bought it also. Mine is 10+ years old.

ebay is your friend here, they were going for $90 and up shipped before Christmas. Be patient and I bet you can get the same or close to that.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Park-Tool-Bike-Bicycle-PCS-9-Home-Mechanic-Repair-Stand-NO-RESERVE-/290836879338?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b73a97ea

cool is the stand pretty stable?

Yes, I have never had problems with it falling over. Just keep the bike centered between the two legs and you are good to go. You can rotate your bike in any direction, and the higher the stand/bike get the less stable it will be.

cool are there any other tools i should order?i have no idea what tools work on this bike

cool are there any other tools i should order?i have no idea what tools work on this bike

Certainly, before you buy tools be sure that they work for your bike. Specific tool recommendations might be better made in the mechanics part of the forum. But in general, tools I use consistently are
a spoke wrench,
hex tools (I think 4, 5 and 6 mm are the most common on my bike),
a small socket set with 4, 5 and 6 mm is sufficient for my bike
possibly a pedal wrench, but you don't likely need this real soon
If you really want to take apart your rear wheel for cleaning, a broken spoke, clean/lube bearings or other reasons, a pair of chain whips is handy
A cassette removal tool, I suspect there are different ones but I bought a shimano one ten years ago and that has worked on every cassette I have ever needed to remove.
cone wrenches are nice, but you need to know what size to buy for your bike, and also need to decide if you will ever take your bearings out, but over the life of your bike I would suspect you would want them a few times.

That basic set will take you along way, at least it has for me. There are other tools I have bought that I have used only once or twice, not sure they were really worth it. If you get on fire with working on bikes you will figure out other stuff you will need and can buy accordingly.

Hope that helps.

PS, if you don't need it today, don't buy it today, but just start looking and asking questions and find deals. OK, the spoke wrench should be real cheap, as well as the basic hex wrenches and sockets

Certainly, before you buy tools be sure that they work for your bike. Specific tool recommendations might be better made in the mechanics part of the forum. But in general, tools I use consistently are
a spoke wrench,
hex tools (I think 4, 5 and 6 mm are the most common on my bike),
a small socket set with 4, 5 and 6 mm is sufficient for my bike
possibly a pedal wrench, but you don't likely need this real soon
If you really want to take apart your rear wheel for cleaning, a broken spoke, clean/lube bearings or other reasons, a pair of chain whips is handy
A cassette removal tool, I suspect there are different ones but I bought a shimano one ten years ago and that has worked on every cassette I have ever needed to remove.
cone wrenches are nice, but you need to know what size to buy for your bike, and also need to decide if you will ever take your bearings out, but over the life of your bike I would suspect you would want them a few times.

That basic set will take you along way, at least it has for me. There are other tools I have bought that I have used only once or twice, not sure they were really worth it. If you get on fire with working on bikes you will figure out other stuff you will need and can buy accordingly.

Hope that helps.

PS, if you don't need it today, don't buy it today, but just start looking and asking questions and find deals. OK, the spoke wrench should be real cheap, as well as the basic hex wrenches and sockets

This is a pretty good overview.

Most bikes and components fall within the same range of tools.

Allen wrenches - 4,4.5, 5 and 6 are most common, but I have used all of mine from 2mm-8mm at one time or another on my bikes and accessories.
Screwdrivers: #1 and #2 Phillips, narrow and wide flat blade will get most of your needs met.
Box/open wrenches - 8,9 and 10mm are most common. Pedals are pretty standard at 15mm if they have wrench flats. it is handy to have a 6 through 15.
Good quality cable/housing cutters (like Park or Shimano) - these are essential when you replace your cables. A good pair will run you $30-50.
Metric sockets (mainly 8,9,10) but 4-15 will cover everything that you may encounter.
Chain lube and grease
Citrus degreaser
Rags, brushes

There are other specific tools for various jobs, but these are a good place to start.
If you don't have many tools at the present moment, there are some basic bike mechanic tool sets that might offer a better value than buying tools individually. Nashbar, Park, IceToolz, and others have these in various varieties.

next you should upgrade the handlebars. Replace those flat bars with North Roads. or similar swept back bar.