Bicycle Mechanics - Options for 7sp shifting on a "touring" bike?

So, I'm in the process of converting my "city bike" Diamondback Sorrento to a "touring-ish" bike. Currently it sits as pictured here:

http://yulaev.com/~ivany/pics/bicycle/db_2009-08-27.jpg

Was going to throw on a new rear rim (current is dented nicely), a set of road bars, a new saddle, pedals with SPD on one side and flats on the other, a better light, and some 1.25" slicks. The road bars are the issue right now - it has grip shifters on it which will NOT fit the slightly wider road bar diameter. So I'm stuck picking a new shifter. I already have brake levers for it so I don't really want STI shifters, and I want something cheep. Bar cons are rather expensive and there aren't really 7 speed indexed versions. I was looking at Sunrace SLM2T thumbie shifters, they are cheap and seem like they'll do the job. Will these fit a 23mm road bar grip area? Can I put them near the ends of the bars to make them poor man's bar ends?

If there are other suggestions for shifters I can get for <$50, I'm all ears.

If you want barcons anyway and can wive with non indexed shifting, (isn't a problem for 7s) you might shop for non-indexed barcons. There are plenty out there both in friction, or retro-friction versions.

BTW- keep an eye on your total budget, and compare with buying new. I doubt you'll pass the price of a new bike, (or a clean used bike) but as you come closer, consider that by going new, all other parts start fresh, and you'll have 2 bikes vs just one.

There's always these (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=42336). Shimano A050 shifters, they fit to the handlebars next to the stem, and they're designed for drops. They're also 7-speed indexed....

BTW- keep an eye on your total budget, and compare with buying new. I doubt you'll pass the price of a new bike, (or a clean used bike) but as you come closer, consider that by going new, all other parts start fresh, and you'll have 2 bikes vs just one.

I'll keep this in mind. Right now I'm looking at about $200 for the retrofit; most of this is skinny tires, light (or mount), and flip-flop SPDs so I'd have to shell out much of this with a "new bike" anyway. I already have the bar, stem, brake levers, etc.

get a cassette/freehub rear wheel and put an 8 speed on it, and use 8 speed barcons

There's always these (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=42336). Shimano A050 shifters, they fit to the handlebars next to the stem, and they're designed for drops. They're also 7-speed indexed....

+1. They work pretty well.

get a cassette/freehub rear wheel and put an 8 speed on it, and use 8 speed barcons

Also a good option, especially because the OP is buying a new wheel anyway. However 7s and 8s spacing is basically the same so he can also use the 8s barcons with a 7s drivetrain.

Donno - looking at something similar myself. As well as the barcons - Shimano still makes friction and indexed shifters for DT and stem mounting. I thought myself about swapping out the rear freehub for a 7 speed for the reduced dish but thats just another trade-off. A 10 speed hub will let you run 7/8/9or20 speed cassettes and a 9 speed chain will work fine on a 7 speed drivetrain so leaving as many doors open as possible might
make more sense.

Donno - looking at something similar myself. As well as the barcons - Shimano still makes friction and indexed shifters for DT and stem mounting. I thought myself about swapping out the rear freehub for a 7 speed for the reduced dish but thats just another trade-off.


does anyone even make 7-speed specific freehubs anymore? everything I've seen has been 7/8 which needs a spacer for 7 speed cassettes, so the dishing would be the same regardless. 7 speed freewheels suffer from having too long of an axle outboard of the bearing, and being more prone to bending.

does anyone ev en make 7-speed specific freehubs anymore? everything I've seen has been 7/8 which needs a spacer for 7 speed cassettes, so the dishing would be the same regardless. 7 speed freewheels suffer from having too long of an axle outboard of the bearing, and being more prone to bending.
Ooooops ..... I was originally thinking about transplanting some freehubs from some old obsolete stock. Mabe I shoulda mentioned that. :o
Ocassionally having direct access to a distributors' inventory can be fun!

does anyone even make 7-speed specific freehubs anymore? everything I've seen has been 7/8 which needs a spacer for 7 speed cassettes, so the dishing would be the same regardless. 7 speed freewheels suffer from having too long of an axle outboard of the bearing, and being more prone to bending.

yes, you can get them at QBP
in fact, on my own bikes; when i buy new wheelsets I replace the 8spd freehub with a shorter 7spd freehub, redish and respace the wheel for the symmetry advantage.

I figure sooner or later they'll stop making them; but seeing as how I wear out a freehub in aprox 4-6 years (the pawls eventually wear down), I simply bought up a reserve of 10 new ones; so I should be set for my lifetime....

I don't know if Falcon friction shifters would work for that but I did read some positive comments for them.

yes, you can get them at QBP
in fact, on my own bikes; when i buy new wheelsets I replace the 8spd freehub with a shorter 7spd freehub, redish and respace the wheel for the symmetry advantage.

I figure sooner or later they'll stop making them; but seeing as how I wear out a freehub in aprox 4-6 years (the pawls eventually wear down), I simply bought up a reserve of 10 new ones; so I should be set for my lifetime....

Hmm, perhaps my stash of two extra freehub bodies and six cassettes might not be enough. Better order more. :thumb:

But, if you use Trekking bars instead of either the ones you have, or Road, 'drop' bars,
you can use all the parts you have on your handlebars, now. ..
as trekking bars are also a 7/8"(22.2) tube. 1" (25.4)

They are what I have on my Grip shifted Rohloff Bike. [it too, only fits MTB sized Bars.]

A lot of the alternate hand positions, but rather than reaching, bending, down,
the reach is further, and a little bend in the elbow to get the same
lowered torso, into the headwind, position.