Classic & Vintage - '54 Raleigh Sports acquired

A short time ago i bought my wife a '70 Raleigh Sport:
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv144/luanzophamzo/DSC00514.jpg

I found myself jumping on her bike pretty often for all the quick around town stuff instead of my competition. So i decided to keep an eye out for one of my own, and I found one! It's a dated '54 on the hub, has original the brooks(pretty much toast) and a front dynamo hub. shifter was replaced in the 80's, not very good looking imo with the colors, it looks... like its from the 80's lol.
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv144/luanzophamzo/DSC00525.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv144/luanzophamzo/DSC00532.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv144/luanzophamzo/DSC00527.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv144/luanzophamzo/DSC00526.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv144/luanzophamzo/DSC00531.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv144/luanzophamzo/DSC00530.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv144/luanzophamzo/DSC00535.jpg
sure wish i had the original shifter :(
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv144/luanzophamzo/DSC00528.jpg

Nice snag, RC. I find my (53) Sports is a favorite for short hops too.
I like the patina. (Your rear fender has even less white remaining on its white-tail than mine! )

I would invest in a more "proper" trigger shifter for it, as you had mentioned, and maybe a rear (black housing) reflector too, to complete the look.

Georgious. I wonder of it has stainless spokes. Those really polish up nice. I bet that paint will shine up too. I love the older ones.

If you want to shine it up a bit, that paint will come around nicely with some rubbing & polishing compound. The paint seems to be in about the same condition my 59's was when I got it, and it's shined up pretty nicely. The rubbing compound will probably remove what's left of your decals though.

The "correct" Sturmey Archer shifter for this would be the "upside down" one, which may be a bit tough to find. I've heard that they were originally intended to be mounted under the left side of the handlebars rather than over the right side, but all old Raleigh catalogs I could find had the shifter in the more common place. The black plastic on the one that's on there should also come right off if you undo that screw, leaving you with plain chrome.

The 54 (and any '65 or earlier Sports) will have the "snap in" style double ended brake cables, too, which are absolutely impossible to find now, so you'll either have to get comfortable riding with the 60 year old set of cables that's on there now, or change your calipers.

If you want to shine it up a bit, that paint will come around nicely with some rubbing & polishing compound. The paint seems to be in about the same condition my 59's was when I got it, and it's shined up pretty nicely. The rubbing compound will probably remove what's left of your decals though.

The "correct" Sturmey Archer shifter for this would be the "upside down" one, which may be a bit tough to find. I've heard that they were originally intended to be mounted under the left side of the handlebars rather than over the right side, but all old Raleigh catalogs I could find had the shifter in the more common place. The black plastic on the one that's on there should also come right off if you undo that screw, leaving you with plain chrome.

The 54 (and any '65 or earlier Sports) will have the "snap in" style double ended brake cables, too, which are absolutely impossible to find now, so you'll either have to get comfortable riding with the 60 year old set of cables that's on there now, or change your calipers.

Or make your own cables. IIRC there are several people on here that do just that. Some use bullet molds, others fishing weights.

Aaron :)

I'm not a fan of homemade brake cables. If you need new cables it is better to replace the calipers, too. That way you can use standard cables.
Keep the original calipers of course, they should always go with the bike if you sell it.

Also you've gotta find a reflector with black housing...

On my '38 Raleigh, I fabricated home-made brake cables precisely because I did not trust the ancient cables, and wanted to keep the original calipers.
A (big enough) crimping tool (below) is an expense - but the 1/16" Campbell cable stops are cheap (~$1.24/package at Lowes).
I used the crimped-on stops in combination with the cable adjusters from a scrapped Simplex Prestige DT shifter.

I have confidence in my work, but Oldroads' recommendation to replace the calipers with more modern ones is probably the best/more conservative tack.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh117/auchencrow/Bike%20Forums/SwagingTool.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh117/auchencrow/Raleigh%20Golden%20Arrow%20-%201938/RaleighGoldenArrow-1938016.jpg

i appreciate the comments, but i know about the rear reflector! haha kinda obvious isnt it? does anyone have a link to some decent look-a-likes or even a little battery powered blinker that looks decent? i like to keep things original if i can, but cost and availability often play bigger roles than desire.

my front cable has been replaced and has an ugly anchor bolt and nut thrown on it. I feel that there shouldnt be anything wrong with making your own, as long as you use decent quality hardware. Auchen your set up looks nice, though i would personally cut the excess cable much closer. and WOW a '38? i know there are older bikes than that too, but its just awesome that the Sports has been around for so long! more pics of your '38 please?

Also if anyone has some good links for generator lights, and a frame pump would be pretty sweet too...

i appreciate the comments, but i know about the rear reflector! haha kinda obvious isnt it? does anyone have a link to some decent look-a-likes or even a little battery powered blinker that looks decent? i like to keep things original if i can, but cost and availability often play bigger roles than desire.

my front cable has been replaced and has an ugly anchor bolt and nut thrown on it. I feel that there shouldnt be anything wrong with making your own, as long as you use decent quality hardware. Auchen your set up looks nice, though i would personally cut the excess cable much closer. and WOW a '38? i know there are older bikes than that too, but its just awesome that the Sports has been around for so long! more pics of your '38 please?

Also if anyone has some good links for generator lights, and a frame pump would be pretty sweet too...

My '38 Raleigh is actually a Golden Arrow - but the Sports models have been around in one incarnation or another from at least '38.
Here is a link to the catalog on Kurt's "Headbadge" website:

http://www.kurtkaminer.com/TH_raleigh_cat_us38.html

My own Raleigh Sports is a '53 (below)

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh117/auchencrow/Raleigh%20Sports%201953/RaleighSports-1953-1.jpg

Regarding the rear reflector, a blinky would probably be an ideal supplemental light, but a black housing reflector would look great. If they're too dear, you might be able to pick up a proper round white on eBay and paint it for a lot less.

Also if anyone has some good links for generator lights, and a frame pump would be pretty sweet too...

This frame pump looks like the original and will fit the pre-existing frame bosses: http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Bicycle-Steel-Frame-Chrome/dp/B000M4D6D2/

thanks pat! those look like just the ticket, and there are some for as low as 3-4 bucks, 10 shipped. anyone got those? hows the quality and functionality?

Here is a picture of my 1954 Sports. It is all there except the saddle (period correct Wrghts) and the grips.
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee309/billlewis_photos/raleighsports/raleighstonewall.jpg

man why couldnt mine have had the full chain guard!

bill- i see you scooted the pulley for the shifter up, how does it work from that position? or is it more for looks?

That bike should shine up like a new penny... A little light oil on a clean rag can do wonders and polishing up the brightwork can be pretty easy with a homemade aluminium scrubby and some lemon juice.

The spokes on a Sports are going to be zinc plated, stainless spokes were the domain of higher end models.

Meguiar's Scratch-X has been known to work wonders on that old black Raleigh paint.

Some earlier Sports did come with SS spokes,but I think by '54 that was done.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh117/auchencrow/48Sports_zpsfacc7059.jpg
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh117/auchencrow/49Sports2_zps136fcf8d.jpg

My 54 Sports originally had 26 by 1 1/4 Dunlop plated wheels with zinc spokes, I swapped those out for some modern 700c wheels since the originals were in such bad shape.

My 1955 Lenton has stainless wheels and spokes and my '51 Sports also has plainer wheels.

My '54... Was originally a drop bar model like my 1951.

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikepics/1954raleighsports5.JPG

...

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikepics/1954raleighsports5.JPG

:love::love::love:

does anyone have a link to some decent look-a-likes or even a little battery powered blinker that looks decent?

For a battery-powered rear fender light, you can't go wrong with a Fenderbot from Portland Design Works. Looks pretty much like a dynamo-powered rear fender light.
http://www.ridepdw.com/goods/lights/fenderbot%E2%84%A2

My girlfriend has one on the back of her '61 Raleigh Sports. While it's not the same as the original rear reflector, I don't feel it looks that much out of place.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7007/6645846167_5068726e6d.jpg

For a nice front light, BM Lumotec Classic is a great choice as it works well with the old Dynohub and throws really decent light at 25 Lux which is the equivalent of about 200 lumens. The beam is also crisp and has a nice high cutoff so you won't blind oncoming cyclists.

dang i didnt realize that generator lights were so pricey! maybe i should just set the front wheel aside for now and get a regular wheel along with some battery lamps...

dang i didnt realize that generator lights were so pricey! maybe i should just set the front wheel aside for now and get a regular wheel along with some battery lamps...

You already have the generator... If it is fuctioning well you are about 60.00 away from a decent quality headlight with a new wheel and decent battery lights being something that will cost quite a bit more.

Wanted to ask you to check your wheel size to see if your bike has 26 by 1 1/4 or 26 by 1 3/8 wheels, the first size is an EA1 and is more difficult to source than the more common 650A.

Black surround reflectors are available from Yellow Jersey in Madison, WI. (http://www.yellowjersey.org/eastbits.html) Best bet is to call them. I ordered several from them a while back. Great service.

Aaron :)

thanks Aron, those look perfect, and pretty cheap also!

i ordered up one of those frame pumps from Niagra cycle, 11 and some change shipped, not too shabby.

sixty fiver- I was thinking i would just keep an eye out for another sports front wheel without the dynamo, I wouldnt buy a brand new one. but you are right, even then the cost is still pretty comparable. not to mention i will have to keep buying batteries!

found some hardware around my work, i'm thinking this would look pretty clean if i can get it to work. I want to anchor the cable with two set screws, and hopefully they will be recessed or atleast flush with the outer surface of the sleeve. I just have to think of an excuse to be down in the machine shop since its not my department ;)

http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv144/luanzophamzo/DSC00536.jpg

man why couldnt mine have had the full chain guard!

bill- i see you scooted the pulley for the shifter up, how does it work from that position? or is it more for looks?
Actually the original boss attachment is there but this clamp on pully was installed due to damage before I got the bike. It still shifts fine. I also have a 1954 Gazelle Sports with a regular chain guard but no pics yet.

Is the boss you speak of just behind the chainwheel on the chain stay? I was wondering what that was for...

so i finally got the time this weekend to break it down. the gunk on this bike is on a whole 'nother level than my wife's sports. but i guess it almost 20 years older than hers too. I gave it a wash with dish soap and a dish sponge, but there was so much gunk left over still. i tried using a power steamer to get into the hard to clean areas, but by the time the gunk would start to come off , so would the paint. i think i just need to get some new brushes and scrubbing pads, and a 6 pack of fat tire. ;) but i did manage to get the BB pretty clean...
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv144/luanzophamzo/DSC00604.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv144/luanzophamzo/DSC00610.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv144/luanzophamzo/DSC00618.jpg
was a bit of a pain to clean that 58 year old grease off the fixed cup without removing it.

Raleigh Comp - You ought to avoid the steamer and scouring pads for removing grease, and use WD40 after your initial wash instead. It is a very good degreaser, but for the really hard stuff (e.g.; hardened tars and varnish) you might try a touch of Goof-off - but use it sparingly and with caution, as it is pretty strong stuff.

i wasnt going to use a "scouring pad" but rather the softer scotchbrite pads(green i think?) I used wd40 and goo gone, worked pretty well but it didnt get the hardened stuff out of the lug joints, especially the BB. I think its just going to be a tedious process. lots more to do, sure wish i could use the old wheels, thats going to be more $$ than i wanted to spend originally. oh well...

i wasnt going to use a "scouring pad" but rather the softer scotchbrite pads(green i think?) I used wd40 and goo gone, worked pretty well but it didnt get the hardened stuff out of the lug joints, especially the BB. I think its just going to be a tedious process. lots more to do, sure wish i could use the old wheels, thats going to be more $$ than i wanted to spend originally. oh well...

I just completed a 1956 Sports. Wooden kitchen skewers worked in tight places and around the lug work.

I just completed a 1956 Sports. Wooden kitchen skewers worked in tight places and around the lug work.

Orange sticks work well too (ask the wife ;) )

Aaron :)

Any Scotchbrite is rough on paint. Try Goof-off (not "Goo-Gone") for the really tough stuff.

Is the boss you speak of just behind the chainwheel on the chain stay? I was wondering what that was for...

What you are looking at is the boss for the chaincase. My Raleigh has the pulley on the top of the seat tube the original boss is at the seat tube and top tube area I don't have the bike in front of me at the moment.

ya i figured it out, mine has the seat lug pulley boss as well. I was playing around with making my own pulley, but Auchen showed me nice metal ones they arlready make listed for 5$

Orange sticks work well too (ask the wife ;) )

Aaron :)

Aaron, I am the wife here and a million orange sticks will not salvage these hands! Vintage bicycles = comparable hands. I can often find the kitchen equivalent of orange sticks in economy packages of 100 for $1. They have only the pointy end, but that works in multiple applications for me. I think orange sticks are far pricier, yes?

Joyfully rode the basketed and panniered-out '56 Sports to work today. You all may argue all you care to, but the cream tires are the icing on this cake.

STS

Aaron, I am the wife here and a million orange sticks will not salvage these hands! Vintage bicycles = comparable hands. I can often find the kitchen equivalent of orange sticks in economy packages of 100 for $1. They have only the pointy end, but that works in multiple applications for me. I think orange sticks are far pricier, yes?

Joyfully rode the basketed and panniered-out '56 Sports to work today. You all may argue all you care to, but the cream tires are the icing on this cake.

STS

Never paid for my orange sticks... MIL was a cosmetologist and we have a bunch left over from when she retired, we also have a bunch of Popsicle sticks too for some reason. I use them for all kinds of "stuff" removal. I restore Airstreams and they come in handy for removing old sealant without marring the aluminum skins.

Aaron :)

seems like they key is to use whatever you happen to have on hand at the time. ;) i think i have some shish-ka-baab skewers, i'll give 'em a try.

got all the painted parts pretty clean. it was weird, some of the decals were hidden under the black it seemed. it was like a lottery scratcher. the chaingaurd and the raleigh emblem on the fork were nice, they dont look awesome, but they were almost not visible at all to start with. the most amazing though was the seat tube decals though, I had no idea there was even anything there. just a dish sponge, simple green and hot water...
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv144/luanzophamzo/DSC00655.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv144/luanzophamzo/DSC00648.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv144/luanzophamzo/DSC00658.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv144/luanzophamzo/DSC00657.jpg