Bicycle Mechanics - Need 700c/29er wheelset built - PSIMET not responding

I'm looking for an all-black disc wheelset built, for my Cannondale Bad Boy Ultra. Budget is $450. I'd like a weight from 1500g-2000g, excluding skewers. Since this is for a bike that will see 100% street duty, brute strength is not the highest concern. Wheels will most likely stay planted on pavement, with few speed bump hops. I weigh 175. Nearly all eBay sellers want outrageous prices for what I am specifying. Can it be done? PM me, if need be....

for rather good prebuilt wheels, try handspun, if you get them trued up on arrival, they are as good as it gets, if they have what you want.

not familiar with that bike... you have any idea what hub size it takes? 135 rear, 100 front or what? and you want black hubs, black spokes, and black rims? this is 700C? how wide a rim do you want? how many spokes?

maybe this
http://handspunwheels.com/products/view_product/1851/
and
http://handspunwheels.com/products/view_product/1853/

? those are 29-er mountain wheels, which will should fit most 700c tires down to probably x28 or skinner.


or
http://handspunwheels.com/products/view_product/1738/
and
http://handspunwheels.com/products/view_product/1739/

(hybrid/cross 700c with dyad rims)


Handspun is affiliated with QPB, so most any bike shop can order these. the wheels are cheaper than you can buy the parts for retail, and they are quite well made. those dyad rims are bomb-proof.

If you can source the components for $345 excluding spokes, I'll build them for you using Wheelsmith DB spokes. If you want different spokes, my alobo alone is $25/wheel or $50.00/pr.

This only make sense if you're in the Northeast, otherwise the shipping will be high. If you're in the midwest contact Yellow Jersey In Madison, WI who build great wheels at reasonable prices.

Cannondale Bad Boy uses a 100mm/F and 135mm/R axle spacing.

Salsa has nice light 700c disc rims...they build up quite well.

You should be able to pick up a set of Deore Disc hubs...for a decent price.

DTSwiss DB spokes...with a few locations here in the Bay Area where labor is 30-40 per wheel. Definitely doable...

=8-)

Salsa has nice light 700c disc rims...they build up quite well.

You should be able to pick up a set of Deore Disc hubs...for a decent price.

DTSwiss DB spokes...with a few locations here in the Bay Area where labor is 30-40 per wheel. Definitely doable...

=8-)

Don't the Deore disc hubs weight a lot? I'd like the wheels to run under 1900g, minus skewers. Still possible, under $500?

Here's a set: http://www.velomine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=122_361_362&products_id=1890

1960g, pushing your weight limit a bit, but only $210. I've bought from Velomine before and they were fine to me.

Don't the Deore disc hubs weight a lot? I'd like the wheels to run under 1900g, minus skewers. Still possible, under $500?

Why are you so hung up on overall weight?

If weight is a concern, why not focus on where it really counts focus wise at the rim side?

Salsa's would be fine, and the set FastJake linked to would be fine - though not double-butted.

It's almost as if you are trying to have it both ways...

=8-)

Handspun Pavement Series 1:

http://handspunwheels.com/products/view_product/1738/
http://handspunwheels.com/products/view_product/1739/

Deore XT 6 bolt disc black hubs, DT black Comp spokes (2.0/1.8), Dyad 32H black/reflective rims, 2211G together, MSRP $350 for both wheels.


or...

Handspun Mountain Comp Series 1 29er,

http://handspunwheels.com/products/view_product/1709/
http://handspunwheels.com/products/view_product/1710/

SRAM 505 6 bolt black hubs, DT black Champ spokes (2.0), DT X470 32H black rim. 2080G, $228 MSRP for the pair.

Providing suggestions...or shilling pierce?

=8-)

Providing suggestions...or shilling pierce?

=8-)

suggestions. I have no skin in that game, they just came out on top of the wheel::value equation when I was researching upgrade wheels for my ride. I heard about them from several people I respect in R.L. that these wheels are very well made, and you just can't beat the price, its cheaper than you can buy the parts and build your own.

I'm thinking I'll get the Pavement Series 5.1 when I need better wheels for my hybrid (36H, LX hub, machined Dyads for rim brakes, DL Champ. Silver).

disk brakes are dragging on your weight target... a disk wheel has to take all the braking force as radial tension along the spokes, so they aren't likely to be less than 32H, and you won't find disks on ultra light weight road-bike wheels, strictly on mountain and cyclocross/hybrid wheels.

I am conscious about weight simply because I want the total bike to be under 19 pounds....and is willing to pay(reasonably) for it. I already have lightweight, German Magura disc brakes, carbon bars, carbon seatpost, race saddle and 780g crankset.

I am conscious about weight simply because I want the total bike to be under 19 pounds....and is willing to pay(reasonably) for it. I already have lightweight, German Magura disc brakes, carbon bars, carbon seatpost, race saddle and 780g crankset.
With that many expensive carbon components already on the bike, I would think having a low cost limit for the wheels shouldn't be a major consideration. What size tires do you plan to use? If not over say 700-32 then road rims would work fine and be lighter than 29er rims.

I am conscious about weight simply because I want the total bike to be under 19 pounds....and is willing to pay(reasonably) for it. I already have lightweight, German Magura disc brakes, carbon bars, carbon seatpost, race saddle and 780g crankset.


get a road bike. under 19 is easy (my 1975 steel bike was 19 pounds if I used the lighter grade tubulars etc), 17 lbs is doable. then, if you pound on it, expect a steady diet of expensive replacement parts.

get a road bike. under 19 is easy (my 1975 steel bike was 19 pounds if I used the lighter grade tubulars etc), 17 lbs is doable. then, if you pound on it, expect a steady diet of expensive replacement parts.
For that matter, well under 15 pounds is doable on a road bike. The UCI imposed that limit on race bikes to attempt top head off a technology war but it didn't work.

i suspect if you get much under 15 lbs, you're rapidly approaching the point of single use ... you get one good race, and poof, its rebuild-everything time. and we'd start seeing a lot more catastrophic failures during races, which would not be good for the sport's already tarnished image.

i suspect if you get much under 15 lbs, you're rapidly approaching the point of single use ... you get one good race, and poof, its rebuild-everything time. and we'd start seeing a lot more catastrophic failures during races, which would not be good for the sport's already tarnished image.
Not at all. Many pro teams have their bikes so far under the 15 lb UCI limit that they have room to add power meters and still have to ballast them to pass tech inspection. These bikes are rugged enough to last a full season or more. Sure they are maintained after each race but that was also done decades ago with steel bikes weighting 50% more.

Not at all. Many pro teams have their bikes so far under the 15 lb UCI limit that they have room to add power meters and still have to ballast them to pass tech inspection. These bikes are rugged enough to last a full season or more. Sure they are maintained after each race but that was also done decades ago with steel bikes weighting 50% more.

+1, the daily maintenance these bikes isn't necessary. It's mainly cosmetic to please the sponsors, plus an inspection and a very minor tune up to ensure optimum performance. About the only maintenance these bikes get that's different from those used by non pros is new chain at about 1,000 miles and more frequent tire replacement than you or I might go for. The key items hold up for an entire season otherwise.

BTW- pro rules dictate that only equipment available for sale to the public may be used.

handspun is run out of QBP .. there are other places to hire wheels assembled for you

OP wants a weight target as a priority.. good luck with that.

Sew up rims weigh less than clinchers..
Im sure there are weight weenie hubs , aluminum axles & such ..
maybe a large flange hub because the steel spokes are shorter, reduces the overall weight.
Ceramic bearings probably weigh less than steel ones.. etc..
Titanium spokes used to be made and sold.. now? IDK.

I dont own a Scale..

handspun is run out of QBP .. there are other places to hire wheels assembled for you

OP wants a weight target as a priority.. good luck with that.

Sew up rims weigh less than clinchers..
Im sure there are weight weenie hubs , aluminum axles & such ..
maybe a large flange hub because the steel spokes are shorter, reduces the overall weight.
I dont own a Scale..

the catch is, finding a hub like that with disc brakes. not gonna happen.

BTW- pro rules dictate that only equipment available for sale to the public may be used.

reminds me of that Dodge Daytona , aerodynamic nose, and a rear wing for downforce .
made a few for the public, just to meet such a regulation.

Don't the Deore disc hubs weight a lot?

isnt XTR alloy axled? i know there are some really light discs made heat treated Aluminum or Titanium, .. Titanium freehub body..

Still possible, under $500?
light or low cost, pick one,

reminds me of that Dodge Daytona , aerodynamic nose, and a rear wing for downforce .
made a few for the public, just to meet such a regulation.

isnt XTR alloy axled? i know there are some really light discs made heat treated Aluminum or Titanium, .. Titanium freehub body..

light or low cost, pick one,



actually, its strong, light, cheap, pick any two.

reminds me of that Dodge Daytona , aerodynamic nose, and a rear wing for downforce . made a few for the public, just to meet such a regulation.,
Lots of car makers have produced homoligation specials but I've never heard of a bike maker doing it.

19 lbs on a "head shock," disc brake mountain frame with those components? Let us know when you get there and how much it cost.

19 lbs on a "head shock," disc brake mountain frame with those components? Let us know when you get there and how much it cost.

+1

19 lbs on a "head shock," disc brake mountain frame with those components? Let us know when you get there and how much it cost.

Yeah, I did the math...there is almost no way the bike will go under 19 pounds without going full carbon rigid fork and single speed. I say 20-22 pounds is the best I can do without spending $3000 on the damn thing.

I say 20-22 pounds is the best I can do without spending $3000 on the damn thing.

Also, do keep in mind that "20-22 pounds" is worlds different in terms of bike weight than "under 19 lbs." For that matter, the difference between 20 lbs and 22 lbs is hugely significant. I don't mean significant in the sense that non-competitive riders would reap any real rewards from obtaining the lower weights. But there are a lot of weight numbers that get thrown around on the internet and in bicycle mfr. catalogs/websites that are nothing but fantasy. I weigh a lot of bikes, some of them quite expensive, some of them not so much. I have two digital scales not thirty feet from my work area, and I use them regularly to satisfy my own curiosity about weights. I've got a pretty good sense of what's obtainable, weight-wise........and what's not. I get amused about a lot of claimed weights I see posted on the internet and in catalogs regarding certain bikes. :)

^^Agreed. I weigh every component myself too. Final bike weight will be under 21 pounds. I cannot justify spending more than $2000 for a great looking, light bike that will be the ultimate target for thieves.

Lots of car makers have produced homoligation specials but I've never heard of a bike maker doing it.

what would you call this?

http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/road/tarmac/sworkstarmacsl4di2