Bicycle Mechanics - Shameless self promotion.

I try to refrain from this sort of stuff, but sometimes (like today) can't resist.

The news is that Katie Compton won her 9th National Cyclocross championship (http://www.cxmagazine.com/2013-cyclocross-national-championships-elite-women-katie-compton-nine-wins/2) in Madison. This is her second win since using Chain-L chain oil.

This year's race was in very difficult freezing mud conditions and I'm happy that she encountered no drive train problems.

I'm really proud to be associated with Katie, but make no claims that Chain-L somehow contributed to the victory, except maybe by not contributing to a mechanical failure. After all Katie's had been winning steadily since before Chain-L existed. So I'll leave it that I'm happy to say that riders who excel in tough conditions use Chain-L because it does also.

The worlds are coming up in Louisville, please join me in wishing Katie a great race.

Congrats to you and Katie FBnNY!



Let's correct that and give Katie the top billing she earned.

Congratulations!! I would like to make a complaint though. I have been using Chain-L for well over a year now and have not won any championships or for that matter I can't even beat my pot bellied riding buddy to the pizza and beer bar at the end of our Sunday rides. Does Katie get some special secret "pro" formula or what??

Congratulations!! I would like to make a complaint though. I have been using Chain-L for well over a year now and have not won any championships or for that matter I can't even beat my pot bellied riding buddy to the pizza and beer bar at the end of our Sunday rides. Does Katie get some special secret "pro" formula or what??

No Katie uses the same stuff, but you only get the "championship boost" if you ride in mud when it's below 20° Maybe if you and your buddy do a long ride in the rain before the pizza run it might make a difference.

Chain-L is great stuff for chains, that's for sure! My bike shop (Velo Cult) recommended it to me and I've been very happy. That is commuting daily in what seems like perpetual rain.

Question: how is Chain-L for cup-and-ball bearings? I read where lubricating these with light oil resulted in 1/7th the rolling resistance of using grease. Light oil seems maintenance-heavy, so I wondered how Chain-L would work.

Question: how is Chain-L for cup-and-ball bearings? I read where lubricating these with light oil resulted in 1/7th the rolling resistance of using grease. Light oil seems maintenance-heavy, so I wondered how Chain-L would work.

Chain-L is heavier than a light oil, but it's excellent adhesion makes it suitable for ball bearings. I use it in the electric motor bearings of my homes hot water heat circulating pumps and it performs very well there.

However, I recommend that you limit using oil in hubs to competition and track use. There is a benefit in lower viscous drag, but it's miniscule in the scheme of things. OTOH, you'll need to relube much more often and have much less weather resistance.

So while Chain-L will be a great oil choice, oil remains a poor choice. Use it for things like soapbox racers and special applications, but stick with a low viscosity, high adhesion grease for bike hubs and BBs.

Ah well. Until I have mechanics rebuilding my bike daily, I guess grease it is.

I remember when I was young, reading an article about Greg LeMond's bikes for the TdF (I think). The mechanics put light oil in the hubs, used fewer balls, adjusted the cones so that they could hear the balls drop when the wheel was slowly turned. That impressed me.

Here are some more photos and vid of the conditions and they weren't pretty
http://bfw.org/2013/01/14/five-days-of-epic-cross-racing-in-verona/

I remember when I was young, reading an article about Greg LeMond's bikes for the TdF (I think). The mechanics put light oil in the hubs, used fewer balls, adjusted the cones so that they could hear the balls drop when the wheel was slowly turned. That impressed me.

This makes sense as Lemond's bike only had to do about 120 to 180 kilometers before they serviced the hubs again. And probably even changed out the hubs or cones.
Just got my sample of Chain L from FB and looking forward to trying it out.

My bike shop told me to warm my bottle of Chain-L No. 5 in a pot of hot water then apply 1 drop per link. I started out doing the warming, but lately have been applying it at ambient garage temperature (40F). FB, is the warming necessary?

I remember when I was young, reading an article about Greg LeMond's bikes for the TdF (I think). The mechanics put light oil in the hubs, used fewer balls, adjusted the cones so that they could hear the balls drop when the wheel was slowly turned. That impressed me.

Would've made a fraction of a percent of the difference Laurent Fignon's hair made.

Congrats, Katie really is a one of a kind racer. It is almost unfair to other women how strong she really is but hearing how she trains it makes complete sense.

My bike shop told me to warm my bottle of Chain-L No. 5 in a pot of hot water then apply 1 drop per link. I started out doing the warming, but lately have been applying it at ambient garage temperature (40F). FB, is the warming necessary?

Not at all, the oil will penetrate completely at room temperature. Warming makes it faster, but not better.

In any case the temperature of the chain is more important, since the oil will quickly come to the chain's temperature. Warming the chain after applying makes it easier to wipe off the excess because it reduces the adhesion and viscosity.

So if you want to get involved with warming, think chain, not oil. Otherwise don't bother, but keep in mind that Chain-L has to be applied at room temperature (both the oil and the chain) or higher. Chain-L will not wick in effectively on a cold chain. So don't try applying it outside on a cold winter day.

I try to refrain from this sort of stuff, but sometimes (like today) can't resist.

The news is that Katie Compton won her 9th National Cyclocross championship (http://www.cxmagazine.com/2013-cyclocross-national-championships-elite-women-katie-compton-nine-wins/2) in Madison. This is her second win since using Chain-L chain oil.

This year's race was in very difficult freezing mud conditions and I'm happy that she encountered no drive train problems.

I'm really proud to be associated with Katie, but make no claims that Chain-L somehow contributed to the victory, except maybe by not contributing to a mechanical failure. After all Katie's had been winning steadily since before Chain-L existed. So I'll leave it that I'm happy to say that riders who excel in tough conditions use Chain-L because it does also.

The worlds are coming up in Louisville, please join me in wishing Katie a great race.I notice you managed to use Chain-L four times in your original post..:thumb:

I notice you managed to use Chain-L four times in your original post..:thumb:

Didn't I say it was shameless.

Didn't I say it was shameless.You did. ;) Regardless it must be a matter of great pride to be able to assist with such an endeavor. Thanks for sharing!

Just got my sample of Chain L from FB and looking forward to trying it out.

FB, I read on your website that Black Mountain Cyclery (which is my closest high-end bike shop) is one that will give one free application of Chain-L. I haven't had (made) time to get out there, but I've been meaning to. Is that up to date? How does that work best, do I bring a bike in and demand instant service, do I bring a chain in and pick it up the next day, ...?

Also, it said I should have the chain cleaned already. Pity, when I got my crosscheck frame, and built it up, I soaked the chain in simple green and scrubbed it, and was riding it dry even, meaning to get over to Black Mountain, but then I rode one day in the rain (it doesn't rain in california, but when it rains, it pours!), and it started badly squeaking so I had to break down and break out my bottle of the reg'lr stuff. (finish line? I don't even remember). Anyways, do I strip that off again before Chain-L, or does "clean first" just mean make sure it's not covered in mud and black road filth?

Looking forward to a dead-quiet chain...

Indeed! I've heard that bacon grease on your chain makes you faster....because ALL the neighborhood dogs chase you! But seriously, Congrats Katie Compton! Job well done!

FB, I read on your website that Black Mountain Cyclery (which is my closest high-end bike shop) is one that will give one free application of Chain-L. I haven't had (made) time to get out there, but I've been meaning to. Is that up to date? How does that work best, do I bring a bike in and demand instant service, do I bring a chain in and pick it up the next day, ...?.

Every shop handles it differently. Best bet is to call and ask. Bring either the chain or bike, though in most cases I'd bring the bike. Clean means ready to be lubed, however you define that. You can't expect the shop to spend a bunch of time washing your chain, or dry wiping a ton of mud.

In most cases, on a road or commuter chain, a simple dry cleaning by running through a rag is sufficient. If you prefer you can dampen the rag with mineral spirits, or a similar solvent. If you prefer a complete wash, then be sure to dry the chain completely (overnight in a warm place) before oiling.

I have to agree that Chain-L is a great lube. I've put about 1500 miles one one chain, have ridden in the rain, etc. and it still shows no sign of needing another application of Chain-L. It still shifts well, no squeaks, no stiff links. I just wipe the chain down with a dry rag occasionally. I am completely sold on Chain-L and an in the process of putting it on my daughters and grand-kids bikes. It just works!!!

I was fortunate enough to be able to ride over to Nationals and watch. It was awesome! Brought my camera but the batteries were dead..

I was fortunate enough to be able to ride over to Nationals and watch. It was awesome! Brought my camera but the batteries were dead..

If you were using a Lithium Ion battery you have to keep the camera warm. The battery's voltage drops when it's cooled below freezing. On many cameras this is read as a dead battery and the camera shuts down.

If shooting outside keep the camera warm close to your body under your coat. Take it out for your shots then warm it back up so it's ready for the next one. Some cameras will accommodate an external battery pack, which you cam keep under your coat while shooting all day in the cold. This is almost a necessity for photographing winter sports.

Otherwise use alkaline batteries, which will deliver the needed voltage in the cold.

:thumb: Katie and FB!

Otherwise use alkaline batteries, which will deliver the needed voltage in the cold.

They were alkaline (it's an older camera.) I just neglected to check them before I left. At least now my commuter is covered in mud! It was so much fun to ride through.

If anybody comes to Raleigh NC stop by my shop and I will wipe your chain down with Finishline degreaser and lube your chain with ChainL. Great lube and it is what I use on all of my bikes and repairs that require a wet chain lube.

TLC for Bikes
Raleigh NC 27615

I'm picking up a bunch of grit with my chain-l. I suspect it's because I left too much on and didn't wipe it all off. I kinda tricky to do that because I don't want to apply it indoors (my roomies won't like the sulfur smell) yet it's winter outside right now. I've also been using it as spoke oil for some wheels I'm building. Awesome stuff. What other uses can you find it perfect for aside from chains?

It's a good lube for STIs.

As to using oil in cup-and-cone hubs, pedals, and bottom brackets, John Forester's book, "Effective Cycling" (mine is the 6th edition, copywrite 1993), recommends it but says you should replenish the oil at least once a week and after every rainy ride. He gives instructions for drilling oil holes in hubs, pedals and bottom bracket shells that don't have them.

Sounds like a lot of work for a minor gain.

I paypal'd a bottle of ChainL I think in July and have been gradually replacing it as my go-to oil on all my bikes. Sure, it's not the cleanest oil (I am a habitual over-oiler because of my rainy climate) but damn if it doesn't work well.

I recently used it as a lube for the nipple seats in a wheel build, applied with a q-tip.

As to using oil in cup-and-cone hubs, pedals, and bottom brackets, John Forester's book, "Effective Cycling" (mine is the 6th edition, copywrite 1993), recommends it but says you should replenish the oil at least once a week and after every rainy ride. He gives instructions for drilling oil holes in hubs, pedals and bottom bracket shells that don't have them.

Sounds like a lot of work for a minor gain.

It's not only the added work oiling so often, it's the tons of work trying to keep hubs and wheels clean as oil tends to spin out an coat everything. Back when folks oiled hubs, hub shiners were a common accessory. Greased hub bearings have eliminated.

Much as I'd like to sell more oil, I feel that oiling hubs is contrary to the Chain-L philosophy of lowering maintenance effort.

Awesome stuff. What other uses can you find it perfect for aside from chains?
I also use it in my Shimano Freewheel body. Perfect viscosity, doesn't seep out and seems to last awhile. I used to have to make my own FWB lube by mixing motor or gear oil with grease. Most greases are too thick but gear oil isn't thick enough and would tend to seep out eventually.

Ball bearings in electric motors require grease, usually polyurea, and are lubed for life at the factory. I maybe wrong, but I believe your Chain-L has lots of sulfur ep additive. This stuff deteriorates the bronze alloy sleeve bearings typically found in the pump motors you reference. These motors require 10-20 weight non detergent mineral oil, preferably wo additives (like 3in 1). Chain-L is way heavier than this.

It's a good lube for STIs.

But I want a lube that prevents STIs! :p

Ball bearings in electric motors require grease, usually polyurea, and are lubed for life at the factory. I maybe wrong, but I believe your Chain-L has lots of sulfur ep additive. This stuff deteriorates the bronze alloy sleeve bearings typically found in the pump motors you reference. These motors require 10-20 weight non detergent mineral oil, preferably wo additives (like 3in 1). Chain-L is way heavier than this.

Motors vary. Mine are ball bearing with oil ports. They take 2 drops per year per bearing. You're right that Chain-L contains sulfur and so is not suited to use with bronze bushings.

Congratulations, FB and Katie!

I toured Europe for three months when I was young, and I went through a lot of rain. I didn't know how my bearings were doing, but I didn't want to open them up, so I put oil in them frequently. As FB says will happen, I got a dirty drip from them, but I lived on my bike, so I saw it soon enough and wiped it off. After I got home, I opened up my hubs and BB, and they were very, very clean. So it does work, but it's not a great plan for most riders.

Would've made a fraction of a percent of the difference Laurent Fignon's hair made.

I always thought his glasses would have deflected airflow around his ponytail .... :)

But I want a lube that prevents STIs! :p

Preventing STIs is everyone's responsibility - start by opening your wallet and supporting your local Campy dealer today, in person, by phone, or email! Operators are standing by to take your orders!

I try to refrain from this sort of stuff, but sometimes (like today) can't resist.

The news is that Katie Compton won her 9th National Cyclocross championship (http://www.cxmagazine.com/2013-cyclocross-national-championships-elite-women-katie-compton-nine-wins/2) in Madison. This is her second win since using Chain-L chain oil.

This year's race was in very difficult freezing mud conditions and I'm happy that she encountered no drive train problems.

I'm really proud to be associated with Katie, but make no claims that Chain-L somehow contributed to the victory, except maybe by not contributing to a mechanical failure. After all Katie's had been winning steadily since before Chain-L existed. So I'll leave it that I'm happy to say that riders who excel in tough conditions use Chain-L because it does also.

The worlds are coming up in Louisville, please join me in wishing Katie a great race.

First, congrats to Katy and to you!

From your site this looks like a pretty good product, and I always have more confidence when the maker can talk about what makes it good and what it's good for in concrete terms. And I see some of my better local shops (Ypsilanti Cycles!!!) are dealers.

Seems like it would be a very good choice for a rando bike or commuter that sees rain and might not get re-oiled on a regular basis (mea culpa!). The drivetrain on my Terraferma is finally coming together and I need to lube it - I'm getting some.

Our shop-sponsored rider, Ellen Noble, finished 1st in her age group (17-18), 2nd in the SSCX Elite race, and 17th in Nationals. She's only 17, look for more racing awesomeness in her future. Currently racing as part of the Trek Cyclocross Collective.

She was running Finish Line Tri-Flow as chain lube, very much not a muddy conditions lube...

Someone (FB?) dropped off a bottle of Chain-L at our shop. Tried it on my bike. Seems like chainsaw bar oil... Did not like the stringy-ness of the lube on application, but it worked well enough once applied and excess wiped off.

Regular customer who is a dedicated winter rider stopped in for service. After seeing the condition of his chain, applied Chain-L. He was back in the next week extremely pleased with it, so we gave him what little remained of our sample bottle. He was totally psyched!

I suppose we ought to stock it...

I suppose we ought to stock it...

I certainly won't try to talk you out of it!.