Bicycle Mechanics - 55 cm Bianchi Volpe ALMOST fits

Test rode the Bianchi Volpe today and loved it. I'm 5 feet 9 inches, saddle height 72 cm approx. I tried the 55cm Volpe and the only issue is my reach while riding on the hoods. I felt that my arms were a bit stretched, not enough bend in the elbow and maybe a bit too much pressure on the hands.

What are recommended options for alleviating this? Raise bars, shorten stem?

I can't move to the 52cm frame. Tried it and it's just too small.

Thanks in advance.

Originally posted by Flash
I felt that my arms were a bit stretched, not enough bend in the elbow and maybe a bit too much pressure on the hands.
What are recommended options for alleviating this? Raise bars, shorten stem?
Yes, shorten the stem and possibly move the saddle forward a bit.
How far below the saddle is the handlebar?

You can use the larger frame with a small stem, or the smaller frame with a large (riser) stem.
Or look for the same stle (cyclo-cross-tourer) from a different manufacturer (Jamis Nova/Kona Jake).


If the frame is too large, you may feel like you are riding on the bike rather then in it.

Originally posted by MichaelW
... Or look for the same stle (cyclo-cross-tourer) from a different manufacturer (Jamis Nova/Kona Jake).

If the frame is too large, you may feel like you are riding on the bike rather then in it.

Agreed on both counts. Top tube length is at least as important as "frame size," and Bianchis do tend to have longish top tubes. My Bianchi and Capo road bikes measure 55cm C-T, or about 53.5cm C-C, and at 5'8"/173cm, I fit both very nicely. My 57cm C-T Peugeot definitely feels too big, even though I can reach the bars and (barely) stand over the top tube. You will eventually regret buying any frame which feels too big to you.

If it's close, then substituting a stem with less extension would work. Nitto makes quill stems in a variety of sizes that would work on a Volpe.

This assumes the height of the tops is good as it is. If you think the bars are too low, fix that first.

Also, sometimes it's sufficient just to move the levers up higher on the curve of the drops.

If this will be your first bike with drop bars, you will probably find that if you feel a little bit stretched at first that you'll feel more comfortable in a moth or two of riding. But don't buy the bike unless you're confident that other adjustments like those mentioned above can be made in case you need them.

And do check the geometry of other comparable bikes to get an idea of whether the Volpe's effective top tube length is longer, typical, or shorter than other bikes you might be considering.

Finally, I would be careful about moving the saddle forward arbitrarily to correct reach. Saddle fore/aft position is a critical setting that affects performance, efficiency, comfort, and potentially the health of your knees. This adjustment should be right.

RichC

Originally posted by Rich Clark

...Saddle fore/aft position is a critical setting that affects performance, efficiency, comfort, and potentially the health of your knees. This adjustment should be right.

RichC

And don't forget the health of your delicate parts in the crotch area. Seat should be positioned relative to the pedals, then the bars positioned relative to the seat.

If the bike has a standard threaded stem, try getting a taller stem. Moving the stem up also moves it closer which should correct the reach problem and hand pressure issue. Set the top of the bars even with the top of the seat, or perhaps an inch above it to start.

As you become more accustomed to the cycling posture, you can lower the bars a bit at a time. Depending on your fitness and flexibility, you might not lower it at all from the initial point. Racers typically have their bars quite a bit below the seat, but most casual riders are happiest with the bars higher.

The club riders I see usually have their bars down low like a racer, but I never see them riding on the drops, which tells me the bars are too low.

Grant Peterson has covered this subject at: http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/html/bikes_framesize.html

Jim

Thanks everyone for the great tips. I bought the 2002 Volpe over the weekend and rode the ten miles back home from the LBS for a decent shakedown. In the end I did not change anything re: stem or bar height. I swapped out pedals (I like the Wellgo clipless/cage pedals), saddle (got Body Geometry sport) and tires (got Conti Top Touring).

I decided to go to an LBS that I knew would give me more feedback and not blow sunshine. In fact, the 2002 Volpe somehow felt more comfortable on the hoods then the 2001 even though specs are the same, I think?

Anyway, shakedown trip was equal parts hair-raising riding on busy city streets combined with more mellow higher-speed smooth riding in the drops through the park. This morning I feel a bit of soreness due to new saddle and new riding position, otherwise things are cool.

Flash

I'd get an optimal fore/aft saddle adjustment first, then see if the stem that you'd need would be too short for good handling on the road. Stock size gaps can be frustrating; it drove me to learning framebuilding!

DO NOT MOVE THE SADDLE fore/aft TO FIT TO THE BARS
Move the saddle to adjust your knees to the proper position over the pedals, this adjustment involves- a plumb bob, your tibial tuberosity (the bump below your knee), your pedal axle, your crank arm pointing forward and parallel to the ground.
Drop the plumb-bob from your tib. tub. while sitting in the saddle and it should intersect/bisect the pedal axle for general riding. Some say a bit behind for climbing or a bit ahead for time trialing.
Get this right THEN get a stem to fit.

If you move the saddle around to adjust to the stem you could very easily hurt yourself

Ride Smart
Pat