Classic & Vintage - Hand Positions

I don't get all this thing about the drop handle bars and all the positions needed. I am riding a Sirrus Port and have just the Specialized Large Grip, been touring with it, commuting with it. Using a pair of gloves I thankfully have not suffered any of these hand problems.
Is anyone else finding this ? I know that a lot of the touring forums are swear by the drops. I am finding it very uncomfortable any time I try drops.

Have you ridden over 100 miles at one time yet? If not, that may give you the answer.

I was very interested in this latest string about hand positions. I have had no problems in many tandem years riding. My lady who rides the rear seat reports no problems either. I mustconfess it is somewhat more difficult on the tandem D

If your bike is configured so that you are sitting upright when you pedal, I see no advantage to having drops. If your bike is configured for you to lean forward, the drops give you a range of options. Generally, the harder you are pedaling, the farther down your hands will be positioned. When going up a slight incline and trying to achieve maximum speed, you gain the best leverage with your hands all the way on the bottom. When you are riding this way, you are actually pulling UP on the bars.

For less serious riders - ie touring - after a while, you just need to have another position to put your hands in to relieve pressure on your hands, and to relieve arm and back strain. When I am on longer rides, I alternate between three different hand positions on top of the bars, and when I'm working a bit harder, will put my hands on the brake levers, and occasionally, even lower.

Obviously, everyone's body is different, has different bikes, and attitudes and reasons for riding. Unless I'm out for a leisurely turn through level terrain, I prefer riding a bicycle with drops.

I love my drop bars and have them on all 4 road bikes. The key is to set them a bit higher than the racer-boys do, for a good compromise between comfort and efficiency.

I added extension handles to my mountain bike and spend as much time on them as on the main grips. Without them, my hands would start going numb after 20 miles or so.

The most I have done in a day is 65 miles without any poblems. This Summer I will do a 120. By and large when out touring 40/50 is enough for me 100 is too far and not enjoyable.

The most I have done in a day is 65 miles without any poblems. This Summer I will do a 120. By and large when out touring 40/50 is enough for me 100 is too far and not enjoyable.

If you do want to do the 120 and be as comfortable as possible, build up slowly. Try increasing your weekly total only about 10% at a time. This may get you to 120 or 100 without too much discomfort.
The drop bars help this a lot by changing the forces on your hands, changing the angle of your body, and, when leaning over more you reduce the pressure on the seat as well. Plus in a long headwind the drops are great. The longer the ride the better they become. Also the more miles you put on in a year the better they become. You stretch to fit the position.

Be very careful with such as "Certain Hand Positions" --- it is said it can make you go blind D

Using drop bars supports your back better from bumps. Your back is supported by your hands, feet and butt, instead of just your butt when sitting upright. When upright, all the jarring and bumping goes right up your spine with no support.
A good touring setup is to have the top of your bar stem level with the top of your seat. This way, using the drop bars is not that much of a drop, and using the top of the bars is not all the way upright and still easy on the back. leaning forward to rest on the brake hoods is a good stretch with out dropping to the bottom.
In short, drop bars are not just for hand position options.