Electric Bikes - Ezip motor replacement
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So. I ran the gear off of my 24v motor.
Yes running at 48 volts on mine stripped the rod and left the gear laying on the road somewhere between here and there.
So I know I need a replacement. The direct drop in upgrade is 36v.
At this point, that is the motor I will be going with. Is there anything stronger/better to consider that won't require a complete rewiring of the bike?
This is the exact motor I am gonna order
I'd found an older post yesterday that said the 36v motor would need to have the mounting plate's screw holes bored/modded in order to accommodate the pattern on the 36v 450w motor.
Funny but I cant find that post now.
06-25-13, 10:26 PM
MY1018z 36V should be a direct replacement.
However 36V motor at 48V = only 600w output.
24V motor at 48V = 900w output.
DRKANGEL!!!! I'm glad you are still around. I ended up stripping the motor freewheel off of the motor rod. How would that even happen?
I took it to the suggested walmart .com ebike service center here and had the motor remounted after changing the rear tire myself. Could it be that they put it back on half-cocked?
On this day in particular, I was running the motor full throttle all the way back home just to see how much it could take. Yeah it could have been me but, no one seems to have had that happen. All I've read about is the motor burning up. That motor still runs fine it just has a stripped rod apparently.
Is it possible to repair or replace that rod?
And my info about the 36 volt my1018z came from a 2009 post on one of these forums. I will provide a link in a second.
Do you know of any tools that will make mounting my new 24 volt 450w easier. At this point, I'm just gonna do everything myself
grocery list for today:
anything else that you suggest?
06-26-13, 08:15 AM
The motor sprocket is secured from spinning by a "key".
Likely, you only need to replace key. 4mm key.
Any rear wheel work is greatly simplified by adding a quick disconnect to the motor.
if that's the case i may be running a dual motor set up here soon.
i notice you have heat shrink running the entire length of those motor wires. Why the entire length and not just right by the deans connectors?
I'm just asking because it will be my 1st time actually cutting the wires on the bike itself
*i just took my two batteries down to get a 360 degree view of the thread.
to me, the threads look fine. No flat spots or anywhere that looks like a gear had ripped off and caused damage..
I think I am gonna order a new gear and key just for s and g's.
My thinking now is that he was just more interested in getting me a refund so I could come back and pay him $999 for one of the newer enlightened models.
Hence, from here on out I'll just do this myself with the help of this forum
06-26-13, 08:46 AM
I cut at 2 1/4" from motor.
Measured after 1st mod job, to keep all my eZips interchangeable.
If doing again, I would probably cut ... leaving longer wires on motor.
Prettier works for me!
I will be holding true to your 2 1/4 experienced cut location
The motor sprocket is secured from spinning by a "key".
Likely, you only need to replace key. 4mm key.
I cannot believe that all of this was caused by a loose bolt!!!!!!!!!!!
What size bolt would that be?
I need to physically test that thread before I order the gear and key (and jump into making the dual motor mounting plate)
06-26-13, 06:17 PM
Sprocket is held on with M8 - 1.25 nut.
07-02-13, 08:38 PM
Why are you considering the dual motor setup? I did twin motors (several different ways) and found it better and simpler to go with a single motor running 48v. But you need to monitor the motor heat. You can run it pretty hard but sooner or later it will heat up. I use a temp. Readout and reduce power when I get over 150 degrees.
simply because, soon I will have two completely functional currie motors but only one bike.......
The bike is currently set up with temp display and the motor has only gotten slightly hot to the touch so I think I was pretty good on temps. On this particular day I rode it full throttle both there and back just to see if the motor could handle it. Turns out the motor is A-Ok! The gear that holds the chain on however..............
Think I'm gonna be sure to put some loctite on this new motor once it gets here.
Is that a good idea?
07-07-13, 11:52 AM
24v and 36v motors will not play nice with each other!
07-08-13, 06:19 PM
I've been using 5 different Currie motors ver the past 5 years. I have removed the drive gears n each oh them several times and I have never had one come loose. I would not recommend loctite for this application. But if you feel you must then be sure to only use it on the threads and not the actual gear. If you ever need to remove that gear the loctite will be a PITA even if only on the threads. Bob
Thanks to all of you guys for posting here and helping me come up with a solution to my problem.
What ended up happening is that currie sent me both a replacement motor and an extra gear (with key) and nut to repair the original 24v motor. Those kind people ROCK.
I definitely would buy another Currie Ezip and the good thing is that now I'm starting to see more and more electric bikes in my area.
My xt connectors arrived today. Finally.
Can you go a little deeper on the deans plug connection picture for me?
Keep in mind that I am a noob.
It looks like to me you cut into the single black wire, which exposed the red and black positive and negative wires.
Then you removed the thick black wire casing all together.
Put the red and black heatshrink on and thicker all black heat shrink
Then soldered on the deans plugs
Next slid red and black heat shrink into place and applied heat
Then slid the thicker black heatsink over all of that
Applied more heat to lock the thick black heatsink into place
And then you were finished.
Is this right?
07-22-13, 10:17 PM
Wanting to standardize all my eZips, I cut the wire at 2.25" (2 1/4")from the motor.
Also, I use the top of the T as the positive.
For safety, I use the female half of the connector on the power source end. No exposed powered prongs to accidentally touch anything.
Thank you so much for all of your help. I haven't performed the procedure yet (probably this weekend) but, with you guys knowledge I am that much more confident in my ability to complete this successfully.
New motor - same issue......:cry:
Today I turned the throttle and all I hear is spinning. I know the motor is getting power, and I know the motor itself is not shot because of this. The problem is that the gear is not spinning the chain. Luckily I haven't lost the bolt, the gear or the key. However, the bike just wont go!
Why is this happening?
What has happened?
Keep in mind that I am running 48 volts...
in the image i have taken off the bolt to make sure the key was still in place
07-30-13, 08:09 PM
Wow, you really have bad luck. No one can tell you for sure that the 48v isn't causing you problems but personally I dought it. I've been running 48v thought a Currie 24v motor for maybe 400 miles and had no problems. And I run lifepo4 packs and a 50a controller.
Lets separate the problems. The first problem was the nut came loose and you lost the key. While being a PITA it's easy to explain and understand what happened. The new problem sounds likeit's inside the gearbox. I would remove the outer gear and key. Then remove the gearbox cover screws and carefully remove the cover. There is a very light duty gasket between the cover and the box that can be very easy to damage. So go slow with the removal and watch for the gasket to stick to bth peaches at the same time in different places. Once the box is open you can examine the gears and the second key located on the main gear shaft. You can connect power and test run the motor. Be careful the motor can easily jump out of your hand. Maybe bolt it down if you can. If everything is good at this point the only other thing is the motor shaft (the small gear is actually machined on the end of the motor shaft. The shaft could be damaged but I've yet to hear of this happening. Bob
07-31-13, 07:43 AM
Push bike backwards.
Make sure chain is turning.
You should feel noticeable resistance.
Confirm that motor shaft is turning.
If chain does not turn, freewheel is bad.
If motor gear turns but motor shaft does not, key is sheared.
If motor gear and shaft turn with no noticeable resistance, internal gears or shaft are broken.
Lay bike on side and lightly test throttle ... observe.
When I put the rear tire in the air and test throttle the motor shaft turns. It spins up to full speed. Its only the smaller gear on the motor shaft that sits still, which in turn does not spin the motor chain. If I spin the smaller motor shaft gear by hand the chain spins just fine. Rolling the bike backwards gives me resistance and spins both the smaller motor gear and chain like it should. I really need this fixed today.
Also when i try to move the gear on the motor shaft as if I'm trying to take it off the motor rod it won't budge. Because of this, I believe that the key is still there. When I look in the smaller gear's slot there is a piece there which I think is the key
07-31-13, 08:19 AM
Key is sheared!
It needs replacing!
Key-key fragments are possibly wedging motor sprocket on.
"Key" is solely to keep shaft and sprocket spinning together, not to hold sprocket on.
You might need gear puller to remove.
"Flaring tool" will work ... if you have one.
"Pliers" sideways, between motor and sprocket, if "worked around" sprocket, should work sprocket off.
Make sure to replace nut, it keeps the key solidly seated against shaft and sprocket. Otherwise it will impact against them, with every throttle use ... quickly shearing key.
48V might be too much torque for the key?
Use only partial throttle, especially at low rpms! Also reduces damaging heat
07-31-13, 09:18 AM
Bottom line you have to first remove the outer motor gear to see if the key (as drkangel says) is still totally intact. Lets face it the key is only about 5/16" long and can roll very easily. But I thought you said this was a new motor.....and your still having the same problem? Something that I noticed on some of my motors is the gear is not as thick as the area where it sits on the shaft. So even when the nut is fully tightened the gear could still be moved on the shaft. I have 5 Currie motors and 2 of them came with a thin washer on the motor shaft behind the sprocket (gear). I am sure the manufacture relished there was a problem and added this washer to act as a shim so the gear would be held tightly in please. Otherwise, the gear would be allowed to "rock" on the shaft causing damage to the key. Bob
Luckily I just happen to have an extra key laying around. Time to pull out the trusty robot pliers. Too much torque u say?
Any instruction on how to reinstall gear after putting the key in place? Once I get it to the thicker part where the gear should sit, the thicker part of the rod pushes the key out or the gear gets stuck at the very end of the thicker part. If I keep going like I am I'm gonna end up breaking the spare key.332134
Sheared key and replacement side by side
Yep. I just got this motor a few weeks ago
332145When I put the key into place I can push the gear all the way down onto where it should sit on the thicker part of the rod. The key however is pushed out and just sits on the thicker part doing nothing for the gear itself. If I hammer this down I will only be beating it into the shaft, not the gear. Any help guys?
07-31-13, 04:05 PM
Remove other half of key from groove in shaft.
Set key into shaft, key turned 90 degrees from in picture, flat face into shaft.
Slide sprocket on.
Reduce low rpm throttle! ... or stock up on 4mm key stock!
Hmmm. So I appear to be missing something. I don't have a slot on my motor shaft, I do have both pieces of the sheared key though.
07-31-13, 07:28 PM
You have a grove...slot (key way) in the shaft. The key is still in it and was sheared smooth so it looks like there's no key way (slot). You need to look for it and use a small screwdriver to pick it out.
What country do you live it? I ask because those keys are available at most local hardware stores for 50 cents or less. You may not find the exact length but you can cut it to size needed.
07-31-13, 08:36 PM
Look around the circumference of the shaft ... there should be a hole ... exactly the shape of the key.
If you have both halves of the sheared key, one half fell out of this hole-slot.
Put the new key in this hole.
Slide sprocket on.
Add nut and tighten.
Looking at both the newest motor and the original, this is the only variation in the circumference.
So i am guessing that this slot is where i need to be prying?
08-02-13, 07:11 PM
Other half of key is in there.
If you can't dig it out, you might use 1/8" bit into softer key.
Drilling, vibration might loosen it, or give you a better pry point.
1/8" hole + lightly tighten sheet metal screw in hole = good handle to pull out key?
I know this is supposed to be simple but this key is pretty much bonded into place. My drill bits are silver wood bits that are no good for this job. They are only making dimples. My screwdriver as a pry point is useless.
Remember I am the resident stoopid man here and for all the other first timers here can either of the knowledgeable DA's (or anyone else) here show me the exact bit I need to buy.
If I remember correctly from my glazing days I need a gold 1/8" metal bit or at least some metal self tapping screws. The problem is that I had fell into the convenience of paying someone to do this stuff for me over the years and have forgotten a lot of good stuff.
I live in Florida
08-04-13, 09:52 AM
Any 1/8" "steel" of high speed steel drill bit.
1/8" dbl ended auto body drill bit is probably cheapest, of reasonable quality. (used for 1/8" pop rivets.)
Available at most hardware or autoparts store.
08-05-13, 07:53 AM
You do relize the key starts close to or at the end of the threaded porsion of the shaft? I would consider using a small punch, chisel, screwdriver or ever a pair of wire cutter plyers to pry up the edge of the key at that point. BTW, looking at the condition of the shaft I am wondering about the condition of the sprocket. Even if you are using a new sprocket the shaft is basically shot and you will likely have continuing problems with it shearing keys. The sprocket needs to fit snugly on the shaft so it doesn't wobblle or even move foreward and back. Who knows you may get lucky and save everything but you need to learn how to ease your starts with the throttle and maybe go back to 24v. Unless of course you don't mind doing these constant repairs and buying motors. I myself would rather just ride my bikes and invest my money in good batteries. Bob
I absolutely would rather spend my money elsewhere but, I am still getting a feel for the bike.
Thanks to both of you guys, I wanted the bike running again today and I got the bike running again yesterday.
I admit that I may be more adventurous than most, but really this bike is a personal training ground for skills I neglected to learn earlier and skills I have long forgotten. All things can be applied to projects around the house as well as to the upkeep of our cars. I thank you all for being patient with me. My posts are meant to make me able to fix things as well as provide information in layman's terms for noobs like myself.
Im a tinkerer by nature so I subscribe to the idea that, if I can fix it myself why pay someone else to?
Now about that key.......
It fits into the opening perfectly. And stays in place with no movement either way.
I removed the broken fragment using a 1/8" heavy duty metal and wood bit. Then I ran a screw into the hole that was made. Once the screw took hold the fragment popped right out.
Seeing that the key is a weak point, what would be a stronger option that I could get at the hardware store?
Something that would make worrying about torque at low speeds a thing of the past.
08-05-13, 02:08 PM
Very glad you were able to get the key out. There's no question the outer key is the weak point of the gearbox. But the key should be more then strong enough to work fine. That said there's a reason why Currie stocks those keys by the ton. The biggest problem is the diameter of the shaft plus it's current condition. I see 2 things you could try. Consider putting in 2 set screws into the sprocket hub with dimples in the shaft to match. The idea is to creat a triangle between the key and the 2 set screws. This will aid in keeping the key in place by pulling the sprocket tight on the key and add in the holding power of the gear to the shaft. This is a common practic used on machinery when dealing with small shafts with key ways that don't allow for a set screw over the key due to the small diameter of the sprocket hub. Second would be to drill a hole straight through the shaft and install a roll pin. I would not go any larger then a 3/16" pin. While the addition of the set screws will be more difficult and time consuming it will minimize the weakening of an already weakened shaft. I would worry that drilling a hold in that shaft may cause it to snap off under load. You will need to purchase a good tap and tap handle plus a good drill bit as needed for the tap size.
08-05-13, 04:08 PM
If I remember correctly, the eZip key is a weaker non-Ferris metal - designed to protect the shaft from damage.
If you must ... there are stronger keys at local hardware stores.
Take a magnet and go to the local hardware store.
Look at 4mm keys and make sure a magnet is attracted to it.
Most likely you will need to cut, grind or file key to fit properly, but should hold up much better.
Anywhere near Tampa ? Lots of Trailz and Trailz help over here ! :)
If only. Im on the Sanibel/Ft myers side
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