Classic & Vintage - Nishiki road frame

I have an old Nishiki road frame from the early 80's (I sure am getting alot of old bike stuff, I should probobly start setting limits :) ). I know absolutly nothing about this frame, not even the model name. but it does have a decal that says "Nishiki High Carbon Tubing". I'm not familier with all the terminology for steel quality, so is "high carbon" tubing high tensile or cheap chromoly? I was under the impression high tensile steel was low carbon.

Does it have a number? Run-of-the-mill high-tensile steel is 1020 (=0.20% carbon). I got an 83 Nishiki sport and it had a sticker saying "Nishiki Chromoly main tubes 4030".

Does it have a number? Run-of-the-mill high-tensile steel is 1020 (=0.20% carbon). I got an 83 Nishiki sport and it had a sticker saying "Nishiki Chromoly main tubes 4030".

I have an '83 Nishiki Century with "Nishiki 1027 Tensile Steel". It's pretty heavy, but probably the most reliable bike I have ever owned. Very easy to work on and with the exception of brake and shift cables, and ball bearings, it's all original.

I don't know squat about frame materials, so I'd be happy to see someone post and comment on these various steel types.

I have an old Nishiki road frame from the early 80's (I sure am getting alot of old bike stuff, I should probobly start setting limits :) ). I know absolutly nothing about this frame, not even the model name. but it does have a decal that says "Nishiki High Carbon Tubing". I'm not familier with all the terminology for steel quality, so is "high carbon" tubing high tensile or cheap chromoly? I was under the impression high tensile steel was low carbon.

Post over in Classic/Vintage as there are a few Nishiki devotees there.

It doesn't have a number. It weighs about the same, or maybe a little less than my Norco hi ten frame. All I got was the frame, fork, crankset (Sugino), brakes(Dia Compe side pulls), and front der.(Suntour Spirt). I'm sure it had stem shifters, or maybe bar-ends because it had a clamp on cable stop on the downtube (which I removed because I prefer dt shifters). The frame and fork are dark blue, if that may help with recognition.

It doesn't have a number. It weighs about the same, or maybe a little less than my Norco hi ten frame. All I got was the frame, fork, crankset (Sugino), brakes(Dia Compe side pulls), and front der.(Suntour Spirt). I'm sure it had stem shifters, or maybe bar-ends because it had a clamp on cable stop on the downtube (which I removed because I prefer dt shifters). The frame and fork are dark blue, if that may help with recognition.
Uh... are the cranks riveted together, or can the chainrings be removed? If it's the latter, I'd bet it's cromo, if the former, I'd bet it's cheap hi-ten steel. Just based on the fact that better components usually go with a better quality frame.

Uh... are the cranks riveted together, or can the chainrings be removed? If it's the latter, I'd bet it's cromo, if the former, I'd bet it's cheap hi-ten steel. Just based on the fact that better components usually go with a better quality frame.

Cranks are riveted, so it's probobly hi ten.

Cranks are riveted, so it's probobly hi ten.
That'd be my best guess. But don't worry about it too much, a hi-ten road bike can be a great ride. I have an '83 Lotus bike, which fits me perfectly, is neither too stiff or too soft, and generally a pleasure to ride.

From an engineering viewpoint, your typical, low carbon, 1020 steel found on most entry level bicycle frames is considered "soft" and has a tensile strength of around 56,000 psi. "High carbon" steels typically have tensile strengths around 100,000 psi and is generally used for tooling

Of course, without knowing the actual composition of the Nishiki tubing it's hard to say exactly what it is. Presumibly it falls somewhere between the two examples. Having higher carbon, it should be stronger than your typical 1020.

I have a fairly extensive set of specs for Nishiki models. If you post or send me the components list, I may be able to identify the model.

You can probably build it into an enjoyable commuting or transportation bike, but I would strongly advise against investing much money into the project. Hold out for a double-butted CrMo frame of the same vintage.

I don't have the entire bike, but I do have the frame/fork, crank, front der, brakes, stem, handelbar, and brake levers. The crank is a 52/40 with rivited chainrings from Sugino; the front der is Suntour Spirt (with "high normal" spring position, which I've never seen until now); the brakes are Dia Compe side pull; The stem is AL and the h bar is steel; and the brake levers are Dia compe non-aero with "saftey" levers. I'm pretty sure it had stem shifters or possibly bar ends because it had a clamp-on cable stop on the downtube (which I removed because I prefer downtube shifters). The colour of the frame and fork is dark blue. Don't know if this is enough info for identification, but its worth a shot.

I don't have the entire bike, but I do have the frame/fork, crank, front der, brakes, stem, handelbar, and brake levers. The crank is a 52/40 with rivited chainrings from Sugino; the front der is Suntour Spirt (with "high normal" spring position, which I've never seen until now); the brakes are Dia Compe side pull; The stem is AL and the h bar is steel; and the brake levers are Dia compe non-aero with "saftey" levers. I'm pretty sure it had stem shifters or possibly bar ends because it had a clamp-on cable stop on the downtube (which I removed because I prefer downtube shifters). The colour of the frame and fork is dark blue. Don't know if this is enough info for identification, but its worth a shot.Enough to know it's pretty low end and not worth dumping much if any money into.

Enough to know it's pretty low end and not worth dumping much if any money into.

I think that's the consensus, but it sounds like all that's needed is a wheelset and he'll have a decent daily rider. Too bad he isn't my neighbor. I'd be able to give him what he needs to get it running.

I have most of the parts I need to get it running, and I'm trying to decide if I want to build it pretty much like it was, or turn it into a fixed gear. I've never ridden a fixie, so I'm tempted to try it.

If its pretty flat there, it could be worth trying. I'd rather ride a girl's bike than a fixie around my neighborhood.

The prairie region of Canada=hills? what are these things you call hills? (actually there are a few decent sized hills in Saskatchewan, just none where I live).

Until about 1973, all of the SunTour front derailleurs were normal-high, such that both levers forward = high gear and both levers back = low gear. They actually worked quite well with an 8-tooth or smaller chainring drop. For really fast upshifts, SunTour made the SL version, with a heavy-duty spring.

... I'd rather ride a girl's bike than a fixie around my neighborhood. ... or a mixte, anyway :)

Yes, USAZorro, you are definitely a kindred spirit. I love gears, the more the better, but I'm just a hill-climbin' fool.

Canuckbiker, the most likely candidate for your bicycle is a Nishiki Rally, circa 1982. It could be older, but it's unlikely to be newer, unless the derailleur was replaced.

By the way, I've been through your neck of the woods! My mother's family is scattered throughout the Swift Current/Leader/Maple Creek triangle. There's even talk of making the trip out there this summer, for a family re-union.

I have most of the parts I need to get it running, and I'm trying to decide if I want to build it pretty much like it was, or turn it into a fixed gear. I've never ridden a fixie, so I'm tempted to try it.
Fix it, canuckbiker! Once you've ridden a fixie, you will laugh at all the donkey bottom biters with their silly so-called derailleurs!;)

Thanks for the info everyone, I've got the frame built up with some spare componants I had lying around, and it rides pretty nice. The size is perfect, and it's not overly heavy (maybe 26 or 27 pounds, which I don't think is too bad, considering my first road bike was a 40 pound Schwinn Continental). I think I may run it with derailleurs for a while, and then when I have enough money for a track sprocket (college student=0$), I will try Sheldon Brown's fixie conversion.

Yes, USAZorro, you are definitely a kindred spirit. I love gears, the more the better, but I'm just a hill-climbin' fool.

I think that mounting a ten speed rear cluster on that 14 speed hub and throwing a triple on the front would be the ultimate. Who could beat a 420 speed bike?

I think that mounting a ten speed rear cluster on that 14 speed hub and throwing a triple on the front would be the ultimate. Who could beat a 420 speed bike?

... and to think, that as a middle school twerp in the early 1960s, I was impressed by Charlie Harding's 90-speed bike: 3 chainrings * 5-speed S-A hub * 6-speed cogset. I did once build a 36-speed bike: 3-speed wide-range S-A hub * 14-16-18-20 cogset * 45-49-53 chainring.

Questions raised about the Nishiki bike's CONDUCT.

I just bought Nishiki sport with the same decal. Its also got a really great looking set of old suntour components. It is in such great condition and I got a crazy good deal on it. I was trying to find out what year it was made in. U say 83, cool!

They made Nishiki Sports for a number of years, including 1983. It was one of their entry level models. Just curious as to how you're identifying yours as 1983. Are you finding dates from its components?

I thought most Sports had cro-mo frames (at least on the main triangle). My '86 does, and I'm pretty sure the '83 does too. Perhaps yours is earlier?

I thought most Sports had cro-mo frames (at least on the main triangle). My '86 does, and I'm pretty sure the '83 does too. Perhaps yours is earlier?
My '83 is most definitely CroMo. The sticker says "Nishiki Cromoly Main Tubes".