Bicycle Mechanics - Good price for new cable/housing job

Last time I had my bike in to the shop, my repair guy told me that I'm going to need what he said was "fairly major" work, consisting of a complete new set of cables/housings. I didn't ask, and he didn't give a price, but I got the impression from him that it would be somewhat costly. To prepare myself for sticker shock and/or negotiating my children's limbs, what should I expect to pay for this kind of work, all parts + labor. I'm aware the labor will vary significanty regionally; here everything's more expensive :( ?

And am I right in thinking this is something best left to a pro wrench; not a simple DIYer kind of thing?

Last time I had my bike in to the shop, my repair guy told me that I'm going to need what he said was "fairly major" work, consisting of a complete new set of cables/housings. I didn't ask, and he didn't give a price, but I got the impression from him that it would be somewhat costly. To prepare myself for sticker shock and/or negotiating my children's limbs, what should I expect to pay for this kind of work, all parts + labor. I'm aware the labor will vary significanty regionally; here everything's more expensive :( ?

And am I right in thinking this is something best left to a pro wrench; not a simple DIYer kind of thing?All depends on what materials are used.There are high $$ very chi chi cables and housing and there is generic stuff, that works well. Not a major do it yourself project if you know how to adjust derailers.You also have to be able to cut casing to length with a proper tool. Don't be bashful about getting a price and asking what's being used.

That job usually consists of the cost of the new cables and housing, installation, and then adjusting the bakes and derailleurs. $2.99 x 4 for cables, $1.00 per foot of housing, labor for install $5-$10 each, then adjustments will vary. $10-$15 per brake, $15-$20 per derailleur. Then just add it all up. I would take the higher amounts, then if it comes in cheaper, its a nice suprise.

That job usually consists of the cost of the new cables and housing, installation, and then adjusting the bakes and derailleurs. $2.99 x 4 for cables, $1.00 per foot of housing, labor for install $5-$10 each, then adjustments will vary. $10-$15 per brake, $15-$20 per derailleur. Then just add it all up. I would take the higher amounts, then if it comes in cheaper, its a nice suprise.You gotta be kidding!

Last time I had my bike in to the shop, my repair guy told me that I'm going to need what he said was "fairly major" work, consisting of a complete new set of cables/housings. I didn't ask, and he didn't give a price, but I got the impression from him that it would be somewhat costly. To prepare myself for sticker shock and/or negotiating my children's limbs, what should I expect to pay for this kind of work, all parts + labor. I'm aware the labor will vary significanty regionally; here everything's more expensive :( ?

And am I right in thinking this is something best left to a pro wrench; not a simple DIYer kind of thing?Another aspect is do you really even need a new cable and casing job? Many shops will try and sell this every year even if you don't need it. If things work right you don't need it,and you will need brake cable and casing alot less often than the derailer stuff. Seldom do you even need new brake casing.

You gotta be kidding!

Am I to high or to low? Thats what it would cost you in my shop. According to the math in sutherlands book. Usually runs between $75-$95 to run all new cables and housing.

I like to support my LBS with stuff like that, plus they have two cool dogs to play with while I'm waiting. Took a bike in last month; new brake and derailler cables plus new bar tape and complete adjustment ... $40.

I like to support my LBS with stuff like that, plus they have two cool dogs to play with while I'm waiting. Took a bike in last month; new brake and derailler cables plus new bar tape and complete adjustment ... $40.That's $40 more I'd have for beer.

I like to support my LBS with stuff like that, plus they have two cool dogs to play with while I'm waiting. Took a bike in last month; new brake and derailler cables plus new bar tape and complete adjustment ... $40.


That is a VERY good price. You must be a regular customer, cuz that seems extremely low.
And IMO you should change housing if you change cables. Unless they were both fairly new and the cable needed replacement for some reason.

Ya need to shop around, prices vary. I've seen wheel truing prices range from $10 to $25 so I reckon cabling jobs have the same fluctuation.

Take a class or get a book at the library. Buy/borrow a cable cutter ($8 harbor freight) and do it yourself.
Maybe practice with one of those cheap cable kits from X-mart ($5) before you spend money on the good stuff.
Enjoy

DIY it. Use old cables & housing as templates to cut the new ones.

Minimal tools required. Check Sheldon's or Park websites for howto. Perfect job to get started into maintaining your own bike.

Have fun!

I just did a quick re-greasing of my front brake. It took minimal work, and I figured it couldn't hurt. It was a nice intro to the task at hand. I recommend trying it, just to get an idea of what you're spending your money on. Personally, I don't think a lot of the work that you get charged for in a bike shop is worth it. I recently had to have a non-driveside crank replaced--they charged me 15 dollars (NYC prices) to unscrew the bolt and put the new crank back on. All of 4 minutes of labor. I didn't even have time to browse the inventory. And that was on top of the crank itself. DIY, DIY.

I just did a quick re-greasing of my front brake. It took minimal work, and I figured it couldn't hurt. It was a nice intro to the task at hand. I recommend trying it, just to get an idea of what you're spending your money on. Personally, I don't think a lot of the work that you get charged for in a bike shop is worth it. I recently had to have a non-driveside crank replaced--they charged me 15 dollars (NYC prices) to unscrew the bolt and put the new crank back on. All of 4 minutes of labor. I didn't even have time to browse the inventory. And that was on top of the crank itself. DIY, DIY.


It should've cost you $4.00 for labor.

It should've cost you $4.00 for labor.


Oh, I'm not kidding myself here. But the guy had the tool and the part, and I had the bike that I needed to ride home. This is a chain store in Manhattan, so all prices suffer the inevitable NYC inflation. My point was: the labor, when you can do it yourself, is often not worth the cost.

Thanks, all. So somewhere in the $75 range would be about right? Maybe a little more for my area?


Another aspect is do you really even need a new cable and casing job? Many shops will try and sell this every year even if you don't need it. If things work right you don't need it,and you will need brake cable and casing alot less often than the derailer stuff. Seldom do you even need new brake casing.

Well, I am no expert, but he did demonstrate some of the symptoms to me, particularly on the rear brake cable, it's like it's gunked up inside the housing as it doesn't glide through as it should. I doubt they're all like that but who knows if the others are on their way. My naive view is to look at them like guitar strings, change 'em all :) but maybe that's overkill.

I'm probably not gonna DIY this one; derailers I could see doing but the brakes are an important safety device on there and I don't wanna screw that up. Maybe after a little more time with the wrench on other repairs.

Brake cables are easy. The deraillers look like a pain in the ass.

Beat me to it.
The brakes are the easy ones.
Enjoy

Cables are easy period. I use bulk roll housing with the teflon center (usually Jagwire) and whatever teflon coated cables we have in stock to do my bikes as needed. Cables are like $5 and the housing is a buck a foot.

Replacing cables and housing is very easy. If i can find someone to pay me $75 to do it, i think i am going to change professions. If you can read and have a 10th grade level of comprehension you can swap out the cables and housings.

The deraillers can be a bit more troublesome until it all finally clicks. Fortunately it is all very well detailed at parktool.com. It even had pictures for those that can't read so well. The biggest trouble i have had with cables and housing swapping is my LBS selling me the wrong stuff to do the job. I finally learned to buy it all online and illminate the pain and suffering.

Again this is considered novice level repair.

http://www.parktool.com/images/icons/novice.jpg

$75, that is robbery.

I agree it's a pretty easy job.

I'd start by not replacing the housing and cables and just cleaning them.

This is simple and will be a cheap introduction to DIY. If you do screw it up, then you can take it in to the LBS for the repair.

www.parktool.com has a great "how-to" guide with pictures and text. It's great!

To clean your housing, you remove the cable and housing from your bike, wipe down the cable with a cloth and a little degreaser and run the cable through the cloth. To clean the housing, buy some WD-40 and use the little red hose insert into the housing and ****** (sp?) the heck out of it. Let it drip dry overnight.

Then when you put it back together you can apply a bit of lube to the end which you insert the cable and slide the housing back and forth to push out any rough spots.

I use a little bit of grease and then wipe off the extra on the exposed portions of the cable. Some people claim this attracks dirt. I don't have this problem, but I don't live in a dry dusty climate either.

Put everything back on the opposite that you took it off, and then read at the Park website how to adjust it all.

If you run into a wall and get confused, PM me and I'll walk you through it!

Replace the cables DYI. If you have troble the take it to another shop for an adjustment.

I had new, wider bars put on awhile back that made it necessary for new cables and housings. Total cost for bars, tape, cables and housings, and labor was about $85.

Dont use old cables if theres any rust.$75 is a total rip off,dont ever pay that.You should talk to your local shop again and have them give you a better idea of cost.Sometimes you can talk to the mechanic and sort of hagle with them a little.Most prices are not set in stone.A lot of shops wont charge you for each adjustment,they will do it all in one price,like two brakes for $15 and so forth.And if you work something out see if you can watch them do it,its fairly easy.Derailers are hardest for sure.
Or just do it all yourself and if u cant adjust gears then bring to shop to save some cash. Also you dont always have to replace the cables.If they are not in bad condition then either spray some teflon lube in casing or put park grease on new cable and things will flow great..good luck

i meant u dont always have to replace housing..oops.lol

i meant you dont always have to replace housing..oops.:lol:
The English language is a beautiful thing, why scar it with AOL'ese?

Basically you're talking about a complete tune up with about $20.00 in additional parts. I'd say that $70.00 is going to be a typical LBS price. If you brought it to my shop, I'm going to to do a quick check of the hubs, crank and headset, remove and clean the chain if it's grotty and clean and polish the frame while it doesn't have any cables on it to have to work around.

Dont use old cables if theres any rust.$75 is a total rip off,dont ever pay that.You should talk to your local shop again and have them give you a better idea of cost.Sometimes you can talk to the mechanic and sort of hagle with them a little.Most prices are not set in stone.A lot of shops wont charge you for each adjustment,they will do it all in one price,like two brakes for $15 and so forth.And if you work something out see if you can watch them do it,its fairly easy.Derailers are hardest for sure.
Or just do it all yourself and if u cant adjust gears then bring to shop to save some cash. Also you dont always have to replace the cables.If they are not in bad condition then either spray some teflon lube in casing or put park grease on new cable and things will flow great..good luck

I think the brakes are a lot more of a pain to set up.

Basically you're talking about a complete tune up with about $20.00 in additional parts. I'd say that $70.00 is going to be a typical LBS price. If you brought it to my shop, I'm going to to do a quick check of the hubs, crank and headset, remove and clean the chain if it's grotty and clean and polish the frame while it doesn't have any cables on it to have to work around.

Still ain't worth $70.

Actually for a full cable job and a tuneup that's about right

Still ain't worth $70.

What's your basis of comparison? If you're saying that you'd do it yourself rather than pay somebody else $70.00 to do it, well I would too. If you're saying that most shops will do the job for significantly less than that, I think that you're wrong. The original poster asked what he should expect the shop to charge. I think that $70.00 is the right answer and I said why. It sounds to me like the other guys who have had shop experience think so too.

If you're saying that you'd do it yourself rather than pay somebody else $70.00 to do it, well I would to.
Same here

On I totally agree with the price. I am saying it is sad that LBS have to charge that much. I know they have to stay in business.

So, to do a quick hijack with an easy response, I hope: anyone know where I can order some orange cable housing for my bike?

Also, what kind of cutters does one need to cut housing.

Could I clean out the housing with any lubricant, such as, for example, Tri-flow?

And can one use various cables with various housings, or do you use the two you bought together?

As a novice DIYer myself, I have to play devil's advocate and state that many people just don't want to DIY. $70 seems OK to me to do a fair amount of work that many just dont know how to do and possibly dont want to bother to learn. Not to mention they'd have to buy $30 in tools, then buy cables, housings, etc... Personally, I'd go to my local Bike CoOp and do it. Free tools, low prices, and plenty of help to do it myself. :)

Very good point. I'm in your position and have been getting frustrated at the constant need for proper tools to do even the smallest adjustments. Bike co-ops can be a bit intimidating, though...

I'm gonna chime in with DIY. It takes me about an hour to do all my cables (Honestly, I've never really timed myself... but it's somewhere around there), and costs me about $6 (maybe around $8 more if I put in new housing) Seriously, it's worth it. If you get a Bell tune-up kit (with all the cables necessary), it comes with instructions.

Happy... uhh... cabling?

So, to do a quick hijack with an easy response, I hope: anyone know where I can order some orange cable housing for my bike?

Also, what kind of cutters does one need to cut housing.

Could I clean out the housing with any lubricant, such as, for example, Tri-flow?

And can one use various cables with various housings, or do you use the two you bought together?

I'd google around for the cable housing, or check with an LBS.

As for cable cutters, look for diagonal cutters. They seem to work the best, and they aren't that exp. either.

I use triflow for lubing cable housing... that doesn't sound like a bad idea. I haven't really used grease on my cables like I've heard some others suggest on this board, but it probably works if people stand by that method.

And brake cable housing and shifter cable housing are 2 totally different things, although they look similar on the outside. Pick up both varieties if you plan on changing all your housing! (don't forget shifter cables and brake cables if your also changing them out).

I think Sheldon has something on this...-

As a novice DIYer myself, I have to play devil's advocate and state that many people just don't want to DIY. $70 seems OK to me to do a fair amount of work that many just dont know how to do and possibly dont want to bother to learn. Not to mention they'd have to buy $30 in tools, then buy cables, housings, etc... Personally, I'd go to my local Bike CoOp and do it. Free tools, low prices, and plenty of help to do it myself. :)

There are three basic reasons why people take their bike to a shop for service:
1. They are unsure of how to do the job themselves.
2. They lack the tools to do the job.
3. They just don't want to bother with doing it themselves.

There are three basic reasons why people take their bike to a shop for service:
1. They are unsure of how to do the job themselves.
2. They lack the tools to do the job.
3. They just don't want to bother with doing it themselves.

True. But, they are all valid reasons for some people. To some people, it's just worth it to pay someone else to do it. That's the reason there are 15 minute oil change places. :)

I paid someone to do oil changes in my car, but I do most of my own bike repairs. I'm more comfortable with some things.. somethings I'd rather a professional do.

I guess if I had enough money I'd rather bring it to a bike shop, get it done right in 15 minutes and go riding, rather than spend 3 hours fiddling with it myself and have it start raining. :) For my current financial situation, this isn't an option. :)

Hell, I brought my bike in to get a flat fixed once because I had just walked 3 miles in 100 heat and I was just OVER IT. It was worth the $15 just so I could sit in the A/Ced shop, chit chat, cool my temper (and body) and dry off. :) I walked in and they were like "wow, you look like crap" I was all "Fix my flat. I dont want to even look at my bike right now" and we all laughed. :)

It don't take 3 hours to change cables; unless your blind folded. But I understand where your coming from. I would rather spend the money on upgrades.

"It don't take 3 hours to change cables"
That depends on the person doing it.

"It don't take 3 hours to change cables"
That depends on the person doing it.

And it also depends on if your LBS where you are buying the cables and housing keeps screwing you up. It once took me three days to replace a rear derailler cable and housing. THanks to my LBS giving me the wrong cable, then the wrong housing, then cutting the correct housing too short.

I have since wised up and do all of this myself and order online.

"It don't take 3 hours to change cables"
That depends on the person doing it.

And how much beer is on hand.

Either pay the $70 or learn to do it yourself. The price is reasonable in my opinion, but then, I charge my billable accounts $125.00 to 300.00 an hour depending on what I'm doing.

Doc

PS: learning is much easier if the beer is nearby and not on site.

$70 for just cables is too much.I dont know where everyone else goes but you must be getting ripped off, no matter what you say.I've worked in many shops and never came anywhere near 70 bucks for that job,unless something else needs service. Now lets see how much longer this thread goes on for because it seems a lot of people might learn something.