BMX - Freecoasters

Ok I'm considering one of these and remember the trouble I had with the "catch time" when I converted my TuffWheels with a kit way back when . I like the tricks that are possible with a coaster brake or a freecoaster but it seems you can't test ride one anywhere .

My questions are : What are your personal experiences with one (no hearsay) , which is the best , and can a back rim be bought seperately ?

Have the front rim , but will buy a set if needed , In which case , what is the best one with the least catch time ?

* just found a set with an Odysey hub in the back for $100 a good deal ?

I wouldnt buy a freecoaster because I dont ride flatland. I wouldnt use a coaster brake even if I did.. Of course you can buy rims individually. There usually isnt a difference between a front and back rim, not sure about all makes of rims, but in my experience, the front is the same as the back and you can buy them individually. What rims are on the set you found?

what do you mean by catch time? if you mean the amount of time that it takes to engage, or play, im pretty sure that you can fix it to have very little play. i'm sure bmxtrix knows

The newer F/C hubs, namely the insanely expensive (and nice) Sym hub, the Nankai, and the new Odyssey Reloader have very good engagement; if you want to ride some street, the Odyssey would probably be your best bet, sue to the 14mm axle and Odyssey's excellent customer service.

The Sym hub has a VERY poor reputation. The old Suntour stuff is bullet proof, but hard to come by. The new Odyssey (NOT THE OLD!!!) I would imagine is well built and is likely a huge improvement in design, but has not been time tested. 14mm is also complete overkill for flatland and usually requires your dropouts to be cut as most flatland frames are still 3/8" (for good reason).

So, go with Nankai. www.flatlandfuel.com
It's 10 bucks to have the wheel built with any rim you want. So, a good rim, spokes, and the freecoaster will likely set you back about $170.00ish.

I've run several freecoasters and ridden many more. The Haro/old Odyssey is not well built, the Taska is good but falls apart to easily, same with the Sym. The Suntour is what I still run, but is a little heavy and hard to find. The Nankai needs regular upkeep, but does not fall apart unexpectedly or act screwy. It is the hub most ridden by flatland riders by far.

Oh, and play is still an issue, but is usually less than 1/8 of a crank. Most importantly, on the Nankai, the amount of play is consistent. So, once you know how much play there is in the cranks and are used to it, then you will have no problems. It's not like a freewheel at all, but is less than the old coaster brakes for sure. The main thing you want is for the amount of play in the cranks to be consistent so that when you pedal forward you will KNOW when the pedals will catch. Otherwise you'll crash pretty hard - and be pissed because the product failed on you.

Simply not an issue with Nankai - it will work.

I've been doing well on E-bay buying new parts cheap . Looks like this back rim will cost more than the frame , cranks , and pedals put together !

Thanks for the input ! Think I am going to go with the Nankai and will sell it if I don't like it .

Is the best Nankai the Techno Lite ?

Yes - I would go with an 11 tooth Techno Lite (I like the colors, so limited edition for me, but no improvement in it).

Then mate it with a 24 tooth (or so) front sprocket.

If I really wanted to splurge (which I would) it would be matched to an Odyssey Duralectric rim in black.

The Sym hub has a VERY poor reputation.

Really? I've never heard any bad things about it, but, then again, so few people actually have that hub in the first place that that's to be expected.

I have just bumped into this forum and noticed that the sym hub is getting a thumbs down.

The SYM HUB now has many variations and has been evolving for a long time.
I have a mark 1 version and it is the best free coaster I have used. It hasn't fallen apart. If the pedals do engage it is my fault. I can now perform rear wheel links without thinking when are my cranks going to start revolving. On the SYM HUB web site there is a history of the suntour modified coaster brake freecoaster and how that has evolved. All freecoasters today are basically designed off the back of this hub.
I am not saying buy a SYM HUB but I do feel the need to balance the forum opinion. I have previously used sun tour, blowfish(first fully sealed free coaster...ok until guts exploded....but it was dirt cheap) I also had an old KHE free coaster which did try something new with the use of an expanding core which locked into the hub which work really well but the 'gubbins' exploded as well. I upgraded the suntour shell to a basic bikes heat treated one piece shell which improved the performance.
Any ways thats it.

i have a box full of coaster parts and I might still have a few suntour hubs. you would still need to find an un-brake though, and i dont even know if those are made anymore. I might be interested in selling, PM me.

custom riders in the uk used make all the inner components for the sun tour hubs (not genuine parts)

I used to run a haro turbine f/c (same as old oddyssey) and didn't have any problems with it. I've found that people have two main complaints about f/c hubs. 1. They don't have "instant enguagement". If you adjust them to have quick enguagement, than some people run into problems of them enguageing when they land hard fakie. 2. If you don't work on it on a normal basis, especially if you ride street, then its quite possible that it will blow up.

If you can get used to the slack and can figure out how to work on the components than you can make just about any f/c work as well as you want to.

I used to run a haro turbine f/c (same as old oddyssey) and didn't have any problems with it. I've found that people have two main complaints about f/c hubs. 1. They don't have "instant enguagement". If you adjust them to have quick enguagement, than some people run into problems of them enguageing when they land hard fakie. 2. If you don't work on it on a normal basis, especially if you ride street, then its quite possible that it will blow up.

If you can get used to the slack and can figure out how to work on the components than you can make just about any f/c work as well as you want to.

hey.. i own a haro turbine f/c too.. are there any links/web that can teach mi on how to adjust e slack of my f/c huh..? i hurt my kness because of e slack thingy.. & i don like it.. so anyone can help mi here..? greatly appreciate.. CHEERS..

If I were you I would either wait it out for the federal reverse or just get a geisha. I have been running my geisha on street/ramps since January and it has been fine. The 9t drivers are a little sketchy, the always seem to get gritty, but whatever.

It is also really easy to fine the amount of slack that you are comfortable with. Or just gradually allow yourself more slack as you get used to it, you will enjoy what the slack will allow you. You need that "play" in the pedals to do things like fakie hops, manuals, or just manuevering around in general.

dats dat

Not notice how old the thread was?

HOLY MOLY! hAHAHAhahAHA! i was like "WOW! a freecoaster thread with not a peep about geisha's!" not to mention people i have never seen post.

KEJAKEKAKE!

i ride a KHE freecoaster. its is flawless, thusfar. It comes in a cool colour. You can adjust the amount of pedal gap. It comes stock with 9t driver so you can run 9-25 gearing. it isnt overly expensive. it coasters freely. and it weighs the same as a stock ody hazard.

No one post unless you have something truly important to add. Let this thread die... again.