Bicycle Mechanics - Spreading a 135 mm MB frame to 145mm

After I get a steel MB frame I will want to spread the rear to 145mm. Would I have to bend the lugs to bring them back to parallel or will I be able to mount the wheel ok without doing so?
thanks

Why do you want to spread the stays in the first place?

What's an MB frame..?

I have done it several times and had no probs with the dropouts changing angle.

I'm still curious as to why he feels the need to do this. It's not as though there aren't plenty of strong wheels based on the 135mm hub

clearly the dude is kinda nuts; check the other thread-- "what are some lugged steel frame brands" etc.

I mean, is this why they created the internet?

I'm still curious as to why he feels the need to do this. It's not as though there aren't plenty of strong wheels based on the 135mm hub

It is cheaper to get a tandem wheel than a very strong regular wheel (hubs are the issue) via ebay

I want 40h or 48h wheel - just because that is what I always wanted - nothing to do which is better or stronger - just what I want

Just get a Surly 1x1 hub on a beefy rim. No dishing = stronger.


But I suppose you'll want to shift, right?

Spokes for the sake of spokes OY!:rolleyes:

I have a mountain bike tandem with 135 spacing that takes a 370 lb load including frame. Its pretty easy to build or buy a very strong 26 inch wheel. Just buy some downhill or freeride wheels (or complete bike).

It is cheaper to get a tandem wheel than a very strong regular wheel (hubs are the issue) via ebay

I want 40h or 48h wheel - just because that is what I always wanted - nothing to do which is better or stronger - just what I want
I'm kinda in the same place but I have an aluminum frame that cannot be stretched wider. I wanteda a 40 or 48 for strength,etc....

the wheel i found is built on a shimano tandem hub,and most of the inexpensive tandem wheels that I find are.
there is about 12 mm of spacers on the non drive side that can be removed and the wheel redished to 132.5. took the local bike shop (lbs) less then a half an hour to do this.we added a 2 mm washer to get it to 134.5 to fit my frame. if you look up the hub schematic on shimano europe under tandem you will see what I mean. its a locknut,spacer,and washer.that are only there for spacing. the locknut and adjusting cone nut are there and are left undisturbed after removing the spacers.

while you could spread or cold set a steel frame by 10 mm, i personaly wouldnt do it.not saying you cant or shouldnt,just that I wouldnt. just my opinion,but what I would do in this case is to remove the spacer on the hub to (i think on the shimano hubs the spacer is 6mm) bring it down to 139.spreading the frame by hand from 135 would be no big deal at this size.

if the frame you are wanting to use is an older frame like you mentioned in your other post ,it might be spaced at 130.if that is the case I would remove all the spacers to get it to 132.5. this is of corsed based on the shimano hubs. there are other hubs out there,and the procedure is basically the same. just measure the current widthe,measure the frame and remove spacers until its a little closer. have the wheel redished and engoy your new stronger wheels,even if some say you dont need them.
whatever you do or find ,I hope this was of help

I'm still curious as to why he feels the need to do this. It's not as though there aren't plenty of strong wheels based on the 135mm hub

To Raiyn

I forgot the main reason is I want a drag brake. The bike kind. Would I be able to find a 135 hub with a threaded drag brake?

clearly the dude is kinda nuts; check the other thread-- "what are some lugged steel frame brands" etc.

I mean, is this why they created the internet?

Take it easy, he's just asking a question.

There are no silly questions on a forum, just silly answers.

Though its a little unorthodox, if you really want a drag brake.... just install a mech disk brake on a thumbshifter as well as V/cantis, it work better and would weigh nothing compared to a drum brake. Lace disk xt's to someting like a Rhyno lite 36H with DT alpine 3's and with a good build, you'll never know the difference from a 48 spoker, except of course its gonna weigh a ****load less.

Of course if you really like complicating life, you could spread the frame etc.

Though its a little unorthodox, if you really want a drag brake.... just install a mech disk brake on a thumbshifter as well as V/cantis, it work better and would weigh nothing compared to a drum brake. Lace disk xt's to someting like a Rhyno lite 36H with DT alpine 3's and with a good build, you'll never know the difference from a 48 spoker, except of course its gonna weigh a ****load less.

Of course if you really like complicating life, you could spread the frame etc.
An interesting fix. I presume you mean something of better quality than the commonly availiable plastic POS's? Also why would someone need a drag brake on a single? This is smelling more and more like one of CdCf's little redundancy projects

Though its a little unorthodox, if you really want a drag brake.... just install a mech disk brake on a thumbshifter as well as V/cantis, it work better and would weigh nothing compared to a drum brake. Lace disk xt's to someting like a Rhyno lite 36H with DT alpine 3's and with a good build, you'll never know the difference from a 48 spoker, except of course its gonna weigh a ****load less.

Of course if you really like complicating life, you could spread the frame etc.

A mechanical disc is not a drag brake. It will heat up and melt under a heavy load. Drag brakes are big and ugly, and have cooling fins. I'm only guessing this guy wants to make a monster touring bike.

I would doubt it would melt, those downhill guys do pretty nasty stuff to their disks. Especailly with a big rotor, you get alot of surface area for heat dissapation, the cooling fins on arai arent that big; some people even grind em off for less weight.
If you can find a downhill big enough to melt an 8" rotor + caliper im sure it would do bad stuff to any drum brake as well..
Anyways its just an idea.

Dowhnhill guys don't drag their brakes continuosly for extended periods of time. You will only warp the rotor, and all the plastic bits on the caliper will melt. Testing has already been done to determine if any mechanical discs were suitable for tandem use. Under load, only the Avid held up, which is my Cannondale can now spec them on tandems. But they still have to be used on/off/on/off, otherwise they will overheat.

I mean, is this why they created the internet?

me too!</aol>

Dowhnhill guys don't drag their brakes continuosly for extended periods of time. You will only warp the rotor, and all the plastic bits on the caliper will melt. Testing has already been done to determine if any mechanical discs were suitable for tandem use. Under load, only the Avid held up, which is my Cannondale can now spec them on tandems. But they still have to be used on/off/on/off, otherwise they will overheat.

interesting,is the arai really able to take all that heat? I mean those fins aint exactly a huge heatsink?

Though its a little unorthodox, if you really want a drag brake.... just install a mech disk brake on a thumbshifter as well as V/cantis, it work better and would weigh nothing compared to a drum brake. Lace disk xt's to someting like a Rhyno lite 36H with DT alpine 3's and with a good build, you'll never know the difference from a 48 spoker, except of course its gonna weigh a ****load less.

Of course if you really like complicating life, you could spread the frame etc.

I have been told that disk brakes do not make good drag breaks ????

interesting,is the arai really able to take all that heat? I mean those fins aint exactly a huge heatsink?

Look at the size of them. Fugly as can be for a reason. Whatever goes on inside them, they don't transfer heat to the rim or hub. We don't use one on our tandem, because we have 203mm discs. That means we just have to scrub off a bit of speed at a time.