Touring - Fuji touring ?

Hi Everyone,

I've been looking to buy a touring bike and looked at the Trek 520, Cannondale T800 and the Fuji touring. I've also looked at some LBS shop here that design and built there own touring bike (G.M Bertrand in Hull)...but that's another cathegory by itself and is way more expensive...They seem to have a very good reputation however and I only got good feedback about them.

I'm rather new to bike touring and if possible want to get something that's not too expensive...

It will probably be more light touring initially but will probably do a few longer trips here and there with more stuff to carry. I do not expect to do several weeks trips....unless I end up really loving it ;)

I've looked at several of the posts in bike forum and it seems like the Fuji touring may be a good choice to start. I wonder however if you can comment about the components on the bike and which limitations I might be facing with those. Would the Deore and Tiagra components be good enough for the type of use I described ? The gearing of all the bikes I looked at was similar. I have a preference for STI shifting (probably could carry a spare downtube shifter if I wanted to)....I am wondering however if an upgrade to the 105 component from Tiagra would be worth it (and if that would be the case then would'nt the 520 be better ?)...

Anyway. I welcome any comments, good or bad, about the Fuji touring bike....and for any of you that have one...any comments on how good the bike has been for you and type us use/limitations/positives you might have face with it...

THanks

Wheely

Hi Everyone,

I've been looking to buy a touring bike and looked at the Trek 520, Cannondale T800 and the Fuji touring. I've also looked at some LBS shop here that design and built there own touring bike (G.M Bertrand in Hull)...but that's another cathegory by itself and is way more expensive...They seem to have a very good reputation however and I only got good feedback about them.

I'm rather new to bike touring and if possible want to get something that's not too expensive...

It will probably be more light touring initially but will probably do a few longer trips here and there with more stuff to carry. I do not expect to do several weeks trips....unless I end up really loving it ;)

I've looked at several of the posts in bike forum and it seems like the Fuji touring may be a good choice to start. I wonder however if you can comment about the components on the bike and which limitations I might be facing with those. Would the Deore and Tiagra components be good enough for the type of use I described ? The gearing of all the bikes I looked at was similar. I have a preference for STI shifting (probably could carry a spare downtube shifter if I wanted to)....I am wondering however if an upgrade to the 105 component from Tiagra would be worth it (and if that would be the case then would'nt the 520 be better ?)...

Anyway. I welcome any comments, good or bad, about the Fuji touring bike....and for any of you that have one...any comments on how good the bike has been for you and type us use/limitations/positives you might have face with it...

THanks

Wheely

I have used Tiagra for 2 1/2 years on my Cannondale and have no complaints with it. It shifts as crisply as the 105's on another bike. The Deore derailuer is a good solid performer also, so I would'nt change that out either.

You could probably get lots of good use out of the Fuji and it is cheaper than the other bike you mentioned. Touring bikes tend to last forever (my first touring bike lasted me for 20 years and I still use it for foul weather.) Any of the three bikes mentioned are good touring bikes. I have the T800 and have been very pleased with it. My daughter has the Fuji but, having just bought it, I can't comment on it durability yet. However, looking at the bike, it doesn't have any obvious flaws and they are dirt cheap!

I did 2500 miles on my Fuji last fall... My only complaint would be with the durability of the rear rack, but I'm not a light packer. Other than that - which is a cheap fix - I was very happy with the bike.

I've put almost 35,000km on my Fuji. Framewise, good value, or at least the one I've got, which is a 2000-01 model. I noticed Fuji seems to have gone the more compact style of frame. You need to pay attention to how you pack your loads on the rear rack -- I have a largish frame that tends to get squirrely when climbing, if the load's not right. The forks have braze-ons for low-rider racks, and they work fine.

Rack? I agree, it will break, so get a better quality one.

Tiagra and Deore are fine. I find the jockey wheels get noisy quite quickly, and I have BBB sealed bearing ones to go in.

Note that I swapped out the chainrings/cranks/BB for a 22-32-44 set-up because of the terrain I ride. The Tiagra front derailleur remained and does quite well. The shifters are fine even after all those km. I must be getting up three-quarters of a million shifts on the right one by now! ;) I swapped out the seat for a Brooks Pro initially, and now a B17. The wheels were the weakness for my year/model. They were Alex rims and I had all sorts of problems with broken spokes on the rear one. I have replaced then with Velocity Aeroheads since.

I've put almost 35,000km on my Fuji. Framewise, good value, or at least the one I've got, which is a 2000-01 model. I noticed Fuji seems to have gone the more compact style of frame. You need to pay attention to how you pack your loads on the rear rack -- I have a largish frame that tends to get squirrely when climbing, if the load's not right. The forks have braze-ons for low-rider racks, and they work fine.

Rack? I agree, it will break, so get a better quality one.

Tiagra and Deore are fine. I find the jockey wheels get noisy quite quickly, and I have BBB sealed bearing ones to go in.

Note that I swapped out the chainrings/cranks/BB for a 22-32-44 set-up because of the terrain I ride. The Tiagra front derailleur remained and does quite well. The shifters are fine even after all those km. I must be getting up three-quarters of a million shifts on the right one by now! ;) I swapped out the seat for a Brooks Pro initially, and now a B17. The wheels were the weakness for my year/model. They were Alex rims and I had all sorts of problems with broken spokes on the rear one. I have replaced then with Velocity Aeroheads since.

Broken spokes are probably more of a problem due to improperly or poorly tensioned wheels than due to the rims, spokes or hubs. Overloading the rear wheel will also lead to more broken spokes. Either recheck the tension yourself (I build all of my own wheels) or have a shop check them when you buy the bike.

Thanks Rowan, for your input, particularly on the front derailluer with 44,32,22 chain rings. I've been reading that STI would work only with 10teeth difference between large and middle ring, and only one particular front derailluer will go down to 46 min large ring. Being bred on road bike, I only have experience with frame shifters and STI. I missed the bar end shifters when I was pursuing my career. The STI really spoiled me.

Broken spokes are probably more of a problem due to improperly or poorly tensioned wheels than due to the rims, spokes or hubs. Overloading the rear wheel will also lead to more broken spokes. Either recheck the tension yourself (I build all of my own wheels) or have a shop check them when you buy the bike.

This is true, but no matter how I rebuilt the wheel, the spoke breakages continued. The wheels are on my fixed gear, tensioned up really well, and guess what?

This is true, but no matter how I rebuilt the wheel, the spoke breakages continued. The wheels are on my fixed gear, tensioned up really well, and guess what?

I know this is kind of hard to check but does the break occur on only one spoke? And where does it break? Maybe it's a hub problem. If one of the spoke holes has a burr (unlikely) or is too large (more likely) it might lead to the breakage. If the hole is too large it would allow the spoke to move around on the hub as the spoke is weighted and unweighted which will cause the spoke to fail.

You probably are right there, too. At one stage, the rear der overshifted the big cog, and wiped nine spokes in one revolution. There is some burring of the hub. However, having said that, I rebuilt the wheel on to a pristine steel hub for the fixie. It should be noted that when delivered, the wheels were not at all well finished around the join, which led me to suspect they were "lemons" from the start. Anyway, they did their 28,000km of service on the tour/randon/commute bike.

Thanks for the interest and suggestions, cyccommute...

Hi everyone. Thanks for the response.

I've been at the bike shop tonight to try out the Fuji...They took some measurements to come up with a bike size that would be best for me. However, when I tryed out the bike it seemed like the handlebar felt a little low.

My inseam was 85cm and torso 62cm and my height is 5"'9" (178cm). They determined that the proper size bike should be a 55cm seattube and 55cm top tube. That being said, they said the 54cm fuji would likely be better for me then the 58cm. When trying the 54cm bike, even when setting the handle bar to maximum height, it seemed a little low to me (I know this might have to do a little with preference of the rider ;)... The Fuji web site suggest that the standover height for a 58cm frame is 83.33cm...so based on my inseam of 85cm...wouldn't you think the 58cm frame would be better ?

Anyway...sadly...they did not have a 58cm in stock so I couldn't really try out that one.

I'll probably try the Trek 520 21" (which might be closer to the Fuji 54) and the 520 53" (which would be closer to the Fuji 58) to give me a better idea as to if the larger frame feels better...and I'll see if the bike shop can get a 58cm Fuji so I can try it out.

Anyway, any advise on frame sizing would be really appreciated.

Thanks

Wheely

Mmm...of course...I meant Trek 520 23" in my previous post ;)

Hi everyone. Thanks for the response.

My inseam was 85cm and torso 62cm and my height is 5"'9" (178cm). They determined that the proper size bike should be a 55cm seattube and 55cm top tube. That being said, they said the 54cm fuji would likely be better for me then the 58cm. When trying the 54cm bike, even when setting the handle bar to maximum height, it seemed a little low to me (I know this might have to do a little with preference of the rider ;)... The Fuji web site suggest that the standover height for a 58cm frame is 83.33cm...so based on my inseam of 85cm...wouldn't you think the 58cm frame would be better ?

Anyway...sadly...they did not have a 58cm in stock so I couldn't really try out that one.

Wheely

A 58cm bike might be too big. You would have less than 2cm of clearance when you are standing over it, which is on the short side. 5cm would be better. One thing you could do is try a 58 cm in another Fuji model that has a similar top tube length (look at the Fuji (http://www.fujibikes.com/2005/bikes.asp?id=22) website and test it.

As for the stem height, you can get a stem adapter (http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=119&subcategory=1185&brand=&sku=9755&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=) and a, or several, cheap stems to try and find one with the right reach and rise. I'd suggest going to this kind of stem anyway because they are easier to change then a standard quill stem.

I'm sort of standing back on this a bit because the frame geometry appears to have changed, but as a reference point, I am 5' 11-3/4" tall and have the 58cm frame (measured to top tube). I have minimal standover clearance (about 1cm). But I've never hurt myself on the top tube! The premise is that the bike will be used almost exclusively on sealed surfaces and minimal standover clearance is acceptable to get the larger frame.

In your case the next size down might be a better option.

As to stem, if it is aheadset, get the bikeshop to order in a bike without the steerer tube being cut, and arrange for them to fit it to the bars are at seat level. If it is an aheadset, it sounds as though the LBS guys have taken the road racing route with the bars and cut the steer tube too low.

If it is a standard quill stem, as it is on my bike, there is enough to lift it to seat height without trouble.

I'm sort of standing back on this a bit because the frame geometry appears to have changed, but as a reference point, I am 5' 11-3/4" tall and have the 58cm frame (measured to top tube). I have minimal standover clearance (about 1cm). But I've never hurt myself on the top tube! The premise is that the bike will be used almost exclusively on sealed surfaces and minimal standover clearance is acceptable to get the larger frame.

In your case the next size down might be a better option.

As to stem, if it is aheadset, get the bikeshop to order in a bike without the steerer tube being cut, and arrange for them to fit it to the bars are at seat level. If it is an aheadset, it sounds as though the LBS guys have taken the road racing route with the bars and cut the steer tube too low.

If it is a standard quill stem, as it is on my bike, there is enough to lift it to seat height without trouble.

Fuji still uses a standard quill but it has a very short shaft. It does have a 2 bolt face so it's easy to change. That's why I suggested a threadless adapter and a threadless stem. More bolts but it also allows for a bit more adjustment. A 10 degree stem would move the handlebars up a lot.

The new Fuji Touring bike has an adjustable height stem It pivots. You can move it all over the place.

Or maybe that is last years bike ? Even if it is you can get an adjustable stem. Make sure you know what model year you are purchasing.

The new Fuji Touring bike has an adjustable height stem It pivots. You can move it all over the place.

Or maybe that is last years bike ? Even if it is you can get an adjustable stem. Make sure you know what model year you are purchasing.

The 2005 I saw in a local shop and the one on the website has a standard nonadjusting quill. The World Tour has a threadless fork but it's carbon and about $800 more than the Touring.

Soapbox time: Sometimes you just want to smack these people! What idiot puts a carbon fork without eyelets or braze-ons on a bike built for touring? Do they want a rugged, go anywhere, carry all you need, adventure bike or do they want to appeal to the weight weinies? Who is this bike built for?

They got the Touring model right. How could they go so wrong with the World Tour? :eek:

The 2005 I saw in a local shop and the one on the website has a standard nonadjusting quill. The World Tour has a threadless fork but it's carbon and about $800 more than the Touring.

Soapbox time: Sometimes you just want to smack these people! What idiot puts a carbon fork without eyelets or braze-ons on a bike built for touring? Do they want a rugged, go anywhere, carry all you need, adventure bike or do they want to appeal to the weight weinies? Who is this bike built for?

They got the Touring model right. How could they go so wrong with the World Tour? :eek:

You are right about the stem, I'm wrong. I asked about it this morning. Thanks cyccommute.

It turns out that the new ones I saw at the shop still with the price tags on, were modified at the bike shop. They were sold before they were ordered, so the new stems went on when they were assembled.

Thanks everyone.

I'll ask the bike shop about trying out the threadless adapter and another . Any drawback for using such an adaptor ?

BTW. the model I was looking at is a 2005 model. I'll make sure I try out a 58cm (thanks for suggesting the other fuji models to try) before I make my decision.

Now, maybe this will sound like a stupid question....but here we go...if my inseam is 85cm (without shoes on)...wouldn't that make for something closer to 87cm or so with the shoes on....then giving me about 4 cm over the toip tube ? Or should I not take the shoes into consideration here ?

Mmm Food for thoughts...BTW...I asked the bike shop about upgrade cost of the shifters to 105, and upgrade of the front and back derailleurs to 105 and LX....150CAD$. A little more expensive then I thought it'd be...and it would bring me to 1350CAD$ (hopefully I can get the cost down a little) which is now starting to be closer to the price of the Trek 520 which is 1550CAD (which bar ends but has XT and deore derailleurs now)....decisons...decisions... ;)

Thanks

wheely

Hey Wheely, keep us informed about your choices and possible bargains... I am also looking for a new touring bike in the Ottawa-Gatineau area (my old Cannondale just can't take it anymore without major repairs). For various reasons (proximity, friendliness etc...), I am thinking about getting my bike at GM Bertrand if they can offer me a good price on either the Trek 520 or the Giant OCR touring (two very different touring bikes I admit... I'll roadtest them before making a final decision...)...

Cheers

Thanks everyone.

I'll ask the bike shop about trying out the threadless adapter and another . Any drawback for using such an adaptor ?

BTW. the model I was looking at is a 2005 model. I'll make sure I try out a 58cm (thanks for suggesting the other fuji models to try) before I make my decision.

Now, maybe this will sound like a stupid question....but here we go...if my inseam is 85cm (without shoes on)...wouldn't that make for something closer to 87cm or so with the shoes on....then giving me about 4 cm over the toip tube ? Or should I not take the shoes into consideration here ?

Mmm Food for thoughts...BTW...I asked the bike shop about upgrade cost of the shifters to 105, and upgrade of the front and back derailleurs to 105 and LX....150CAD$. A little more expensive then I thought it'd be...and it would bring me to 1350CAD$ (hopefully I can get the cost down a little) which is now starting to be closer to the price of the Trek 520 which is 1550CAD (which bar ends but has XT and deore derailleurs now)....decisons...decisions... ;)

Thanks

wheely

The adaptors are just a stem without ... a stem. It fits in just like a regular quill and you put a threadless stem on it. I have them on several bikes and they work great.

Certainly, try a larger bike with you shoes on. The fit might be better that way. I understand what you are going through with fit. I kind of fit an inbetween size also but I usually go with the smaller size because I can adjust it more to fit than a larger size. However, if you just don't feel right on the smaller one - too cramped, it feels too small, etc. - go with the one that feels best. As long as you have 2 to 4 cm of clearance when you stand over the bike you should be okay.

And, finally, upgrades. That's a lot of upgrades. If you buy the Fuji, you could ride it for a couple of years before any of the stuff on it would start to wear out. Even using it for touring, the components are good. I'd stick with the original stuff and then start swapping it out later as you find deals and sales. It provides endless hours of fun - working on your own bike - and does almost as good a job draining you bank account as a boat would :D On the other hand, if you don't like to tinker with stuff or you just like the color better, go with the Trek

Thanks for the advice cyccommute. I'll let you know what I end up choosing.

BTW....sold the boat last year...but hey...there's always a good way to drain the bank account ;)

Cheers

Thanks for the advice cyccommute. I'll let you know what I end up choosing.

BTW....sold the boat last year...but hey...there's always a good way to drain the bank account ;)

Cheers

The evil combination of flyfishing and bicycling can do a real number any excess funds.

The 2005 I saw in a local shop and the one on the website has a standard nonadjusting quill. The World Tour has a threadless fork but it's carbon and about $800 more than the Touring.

Soapbox time: Sometimes you just want to smack these people! What idiot puts a carbon fork without eyelets or braze-ons on a bike built for touring? Do they want a rugged, go anywhere, carry all you need, adventure bike or do they want to appeal to the weight weinies? Who is this bike built for?

They got the Touring model right. How could they go so wrong with the World Tour? :eek:

Before you start smacking people, I had pondered the same question until I saw a very solid looking one-piece low-rider rack which had upper connections to the brake mounts and a "replacement" quick-release and spindle at the bottom for the the other mounting point. This type seemed to remove the need for the low-rider mounts. I haven't bought it as my version of the Fuji World (2004 version) did come with the mounts.

Before you start smacking people, I had pondered the same question until I saw a very solid looking one-piece low-rider rack which had upper connections to the brake mounts and a "replacement" quick-release and spindle at the bottom for the the other mounting point. This type seemed to remove the need for the low-rider mounts. I haven't bought it as my version of the Fuji World (2004 version) did come with the mounts.

The only problem I have with the Old Man Mountain rack (which is what you are talking about) is the fork still. I don't know that I would trust a carbon fork with a touring load. The carbon fork is used to save weight and to make the bike "sexy" but what would happen if you were to hit a hole in the middle of a dirt trail carrying 20 or 30 pounds in on that rack? I don't know that I quite trust carbon that much yet.

And, finally, upgrades. That's a lot of upgrades. If you buy the Fuji, you could ride it for a couple of years before any of the stuff on it would start to wear out. Even using it for touring, the components are good. I'd stick with the original stuff and then start swapping it out later as you find deals and sales. It provides endless hours of fun - working on your own bike - and does almost as good a job draining you bank account as a boat would :D On the other hand, if you don't like to tinker with stuff or you just like the color better, go with the Trek

I am with cyccommute on the upgrades. Why bother. You will find the bike satisfactory from the get-go if it is adjusted and tuned properly by the LBS prior to delivery. Don't even worry about the chainrings -- your plan to do light touring initially fits with the gearing as it is.

Keep your money for touring itself, or for other neato touring equipment, or upgrade to Conti TT2000s or something like that. As I say, the Tiagra shifters on mine have done almost 35,000km, and I replaced the rear der with another Deore only because the original was hurt in crash. You're touring, not competing for the fastest drag out of the last corner on a crit. ;)

I think if you go to the www.cyclingplus.co.uk site and do a search on Fuji Touring, you will probably turn up a review that was published in the magazine less than 12 months ago. It came highly recommended as a value for money tourer. CyclingPlus is renowned for its empathy with touring interests.

Bikes are for riding, not for "standing over". Many or most folks who would be spending eight or ten hours a day on a bike would be more confortable if their hands are as high as the saddle. I am also about 5'9" (and a half...maybe) and I can easily adjust the bars to be as high as the saddle on a size 58 bike with traditional geometry. On a size 54 bike, the bars would be several inches too low, unless re-fitted with a much higher stem. A bike tour spent staring at the front tire, hands, wrists, neck and back aching.

Having the bars as high as the saddle also brings the bars back closer to the saddle (even with the longer top tube). Ride a size 58 with the bars set a saddle height. Odds are, your bike will be at about a 45 degree angle, and you will have relatively little weight on your hands and wrists. Your head will be up high enough to enjoy the scenery, and to watch that Suburban in the lane next to you.

You may NOT be able to stand over a size 58 with the bike "dead" upright. On my "tallest" bikes, I tilt them sideways when I mount and dismount. Not a problem. And, at a stopsign, I put one foot down, not both. Again, not a problem. On a long tour, you will be riding for hours, and standing for seconds...riding comfort should be priority one, two, and three.

Of course, there are a few "touring" bikes that use a high head tube, and a sloping top tube. That permits the "best" of both worlds. The high head tube makes it easy to get the bars up as high as the saddle. The sloping top tube provides lots of "standover" room. Although not designed "per se" for loaded touring, the Trek 7000 series of hybrids has that combination of a high bar position and good standover clearance. They also have long chainstays...so, with the "right" set of sturdy wheels...a nice touring bike.

Hi everyone...

Well....I decided to go for the Fuji...I was able to negotiate the price down a little... and just changed the rack for a better one, + got clipless pedals....Got the size 54 frame instead of the 58 in the end (althouth alanbikehouston got me to think twice about it and had good arguments for getting the larger frame) . The LBS agreed to provide an extended stem or stem adaptor as cyccommute suggested...which I tryed and it feels more comfortable now....BTW. the choice I had here is to use a relatively longer quill stem with an ajustable stem (all in one piece) VS using a threadless stem adaptor....From what I understand...the thresdless stem adapter might provide more stem choices...

Thanks everyone. Hopefully I made the right choice. I'll let you know how things went after my first few trips...

Cheers

Wheely

Hi everyone,

Well, After almost 1000 Km on the bike....I have to say that overall I am happy with the Fuji touring...Very comfortable. Never had a steel bike before and have to say that the steel frame is great for absorbing the bumps. The difference from my old aluminium bike is quite significant ;)

I was a little concerned about the bike sizing initially but can't complained as it feels comfortable even on longer rides.

Only problem I really had was with one spoke that broke on the back wheel which the bike shop agreed to fix...Note sure it was an issue with the initial LBS bike preparation or the wheel/spoke itself...but I know for sure it isn't anything I've hit on the road.

Anyway...so far...so good...I can say I'm happy with the bike. Thanks again to all who took the time to answer my original post...

Cheers

Wheely

thanks for the update I have been thinking about the fuji myself since I haven't been able to find anything used in the right size at the right price, and I've been crunching the numbers on building myself and the price comes out the same despite lower spec'd parts, and that's not including the shipping from different suppliers, or the time to put the damn thing together.

I've been riding a Fuji Touring for a year (2003 model) and am very happy with it (pic here (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?p=1213859#post1213859)). Most of my miles have been loaded commuting so far, but I've done a bit of touring on some very punishing roads and everything held together: spokes, rear rack, no problems!

Toured and raced on Fujis back in the seventies . . . nice to see 'em making a comeback.

Only problem I really had was with one spoke that broke on the back wheel which the bike shop agreed to fix...Note sure it was an issue with the initial LBS bike preparation or the wheel/spoke itself...but I know for sure it isn't anything I've hit on the road.

Anyway...so far...so good...I can say I'm happy with the bike. Thanks again to all who took the time to answer my original post...

Cheers

Wheely

Glad to hear you like your Fuji. I have a 2004 model...put on a Brooks B17, Jandd rack, and some SKS fenders and use it as my commuter and tourer.

I too broke a spoke on the cassette side of the rear wheel...then another...then another...within a span of 10 months. Performance LBS replaced the spoke and retensioned the wheel each time.

Finally, 4 spokes broke on one ride and I said enough is enough. (BTW, I weigh 160 and the spokes were broken while commuting with lightly packed panniers on smooth asphalt. No potholes or curbjumping.) This time, Performance sent in the wheel to Fuji to be inspected. It's been a month and I'm still waiting. :mad:

Hmmmm. I think I did highlight broken spokes as one of the problems I had with the original equipment Alex wheels.

Now, I have problems with the Velocity Aeroheads -- the wheel I put on the back was a complete unit supplied by Velocity, and it was untouched for 6,000km in terms of spoke tension. Then to my horror I discovered spoke pull-through in four locations -- one severe. Of course, the wheel has gone back to Velocity for a warranty claim.

I can't see that the Fuji frame can be held to account -- just the wheels.

I was thinking about getting a fuji, but then I read the last few posts here and it seems they are known for spoke problems. Isn't the fuji touring bike the only tourer that comes with extra spokes? Even if it is the fault of the wheels rather than the frame, you shouldn't have to deal with that frustration after shelling out $840. I guess you get what you pay for. I'm starting to wonder if I should take another look at the Trek, even if i have to spend an extra $200 or so.

I have had my Fuji for a couple of months and done several 1000 kms, some of it fully loaded on bad roads(with dumbells in the panniers as well for extra weight for training purposes!). I have had no spoke (or other) troubles at all and love the bike

All I have changed is the awful seat it came with, and the gearing

Interesting... especially since I just broke a spoke on my Fuji Touring's rear wheel - on the trainer! I was jsut trying to decide whetehr to haul in in to Performance - who sold it to me - and complain, or whether to fix it myself and shut up.

Complain. It might be the only way Fuji gets rid of crappy Alex rims and goes for something more durable.

By the way, dreamy, I am glad it is working out for you! That trans-Am trip must be looming rapidly on the horizon!

I'm breaking mine at the elbow. Still likely to be a rim problem?

Or a hub problem. I don't know. All but one of mine were at the elbow. I think I went through around 40 spokes all-up. The rims are now on my fixed gear, which meant a full wheel rebuild (one of several!!!) for the new hub. Guess what? After around 400km, a broken drive-side spoke. So that might discount the hub.

<shrug> I don't honestly know. And I am not a heavyweight tourer by any stretch.

I'm breaking mine at the elbow. Still likely to be a rim problem?

Probably a poorly tensioned wheel. If the wheel isn't tensioned properly a loose spoke can move around at the hub and fatigue. Or it may be poor quality spokes. I usually check the tension on wheels when I get a new bike home.

Is plucking the spokes and listening a good indicator of spoke tension??

After reading all this I have tried mine, and there is a large variation between spokes....

And yes, I do think I have a reasonable ear from tuning guitars....

The spokes on the drive side should sound tight (higher pitch) and very similar. The ones on the left side should sound duller (lower pitch) but also similar to each other. Tighter spoke tension on the drive side is a yes.

On the front wheel, the ping of all the spokes should be the same.

If you are good at tuning guitars, you will likely be good at judging spoke tension... although a tensiometer would be useful (albeit an expensive addition to a tool kit). The tensiometer would enable you to associate spoke tension with sound. Maybe your bike shop could set you up a wheel so you can pluck the spokes and determine the pitches.

Is plucking the spokes and listening a good indicator of spoke tension??

After reading all this I have tried mine, and there is a large variation between spokes....

And yes, I do think I have a reasonable ear from tuning guitars....

That's how I do it. The lower singing spoke gets the wrench in preference when I'm truing. I've had no trouble getting them all twanging within 2 tones of each other (except between drive/non-drive side in the rear).

Probably a poorly tensioned wheel. If the wheel isn't tensioned properly a loose spoke can move around at the hub and fatigue. Or it may be poor quality spokes. I usually check the tension on wheels when I get a new bike home.

Yes, we've had this conversation before over this same problem. I tensioned up the spokes on the rebuild for the fixed gear (almost) as tightly as the Velocity wheel. But yes on original delivery of the Fuji three years ago, the spokes were not particularly tight.

Well. Interesting. The guy at the LBS yesterday, after replacing the broken spoke...mentioned that the spokes on the Fuji are not as good quality as the ones they use at the bike store to replace broken ones...! He said they sometimes rebuild the wheels with stronger spokes ... Make sense ????

Well. After another 100Km or so...another spoke broke. The LBS now decided to replace all spokes by DT spokes and to rebuild the wheel completely (at no cost of course)

I'll let you know how it goes with the rebuilt wheel...Hopefully that will solve the problem...

Cheers

Wheely

Well. After another 100Km or so...another spoke broke. The LBS now decided to replace all spokes by DT spokes and to rebuild the wheel completely (at no cost of course)

I'll let you know how it goes with the rebuilt wheel...Hopefully that will solve the problem...

Cheers

Wheely

Good to hear that your LBS is trying to solve the problem...In my case, I finally received a replacement rear wheel under warranty from Fuji. It was a different Alex rim (X2100) and hub (Formula) from stock, but I thought that actually might be a good thing. Brought it home and found out it was a 32 spoke wheel, not 36. Back to Performance I go... :(

I testrode a 2005 Fuji Touring (58cm. I'm 6'2") yesterday. It was great! And at $700 USD list price at one of my local shops, the price can't be beat. I just needed the seat raised a bit for a great fit. I will probably get one at the end of the month unless something better presents itself. After hearing the spoke problems, It might be a good idea to upgrade the wheels later down the rode. I just can't afford to buy a new bike + wheel upgrades at the same time. One of my friends who has done multiple tours says the best investment in a touring bike is having a master wheel builder put your wheels together with top quality parts. Since I have never done any long distance touring, this is probably advice I will take before my first long distance tour :)

Isn't the fuji touring bike the only tourer that comes with extra spokes? .

I just purchased an REI Randonne and it came with two spare spokes and a nifty spoke holder right on the chain stay. I haven't had any problems with the bike yet, but its just getting broken in with about 250 miles on it. I highly recommend the bike to anyone looking for a steel frame touring bike.

Michael

Anyone know the warranty for the Fuji Touring? I can't seem to find it on their website.