Mountain Biking - Help with a rim set.

I have a GT I Drive 5.0. I have been having issues with the stock rims, and hubs. First I an not easy on a bike and knock the rims very out of true in 2 or 3 rides. This is adding up very fast, at $20 a retrue considering I need to do that on a weekly basis.

Second issue is the hubs are not sealed. So far I have had to take them apart, remove the old grease and repack them twice. Another Pain in the U know What.

Ok so now my question, I have been looking around a wheel sets, and I think these ones by GT would be great. Matches my bike and at $150 seem to priced right. My question is will they fit? Are they a good upgrade. Given that they are downhill speck rims will they hold true better. Weight being a slight issue but I would rather go heavy and never reture then go light and keep having to work on them.


GT CNC Form/Mavic D521 CD Wheelset
Front -DT DB Spokes, 20mm Front Axle, V Brake Compatible-32H Black Rear-8/9 Speed, 32hole Sealed cartridge bearing alloy body hub 1139/1164g

Why are you going for 32 spoke wheels if you are hard on them?
At least in the rear, you should think about 36 spoke.

I have been running a set of low spoke count Shimano rims on my road bike. They have needed less trueing then my old set of Mavics, so I was thinking the missing 4 spokes would not make that much difference. Keep in mine when I say I am hard on them I am thinking that based off the fact that my current set does not stay true very long.

I currently have

Rims WTB Speed Master 26 inch
Front Hub Alloy QR
Rear Hub Alloy Cassette, QR 9-speed
Spokes Stainless steel 14 gauge
Nipples Brass CP

My thinking is that these rims and hubs are of such low quality that is more my issue.

But At 225 it could be my fat gut.

My commuting bike has a rear wheel of fairly low grade components, but built up by my local bike shop into a bomb-proof wheel that can handle tracks, trails etc.
4 spokes make a huge difference to the strength, esp if the wheel is built correctly.
Heavily laden tourists use 36 or even 40 spoke rear wheels but never 32 spokes. All else being equal, strength is related to the length of unsupported rim between the spokes.

Ok I am still looking.

It's probably a matter of an improperly built wheel that's causing your problems. A heavier duty rim aint a bad idea, but may be more than you need. Also, a 36 spoke wheel is stronger than 32 spoke regardless, but again if improperly built it's just garbage!

There are some great wheel deals on the net right now. I've seen decent rims laced to good hubs (disc ready) for under $200.00.

Check some other threads here!http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9437

L8R

Top shelf wheel components don't guarantee a durable wheel. Wheel construction is a huge factor.

Most 'great deal' wheels with name components are machine-built vs. hand-built. The concensus is that machine-built wheels don't last as long (stay true) as hand-built wheels. My own experience confirms this.

For example, last summer my OEM rear wheel would no longer hold true, so I bought, mail order, a Mavic 517 rim laced to and LX hub for under $100 (I race XC, BTW). The price was right, the components were right and delivery came before the next race. However, the rim was toast by the end of the season.

Find and LBS or friend to build your wheels using your handpicked components. It will cost more, but you'll have a better wheel.

I see the build issue. My next question is can you rebuild a rim?

Originally posted by Baby Huey
I see the build issue. My next question is can you rebuild a rim?

Maybe. If, after the rim is unlaced, it will still lay flat, you can rebuild it with new spokes. However, if it no longer will lay flat, it's dead.

Recycling the hub and rib and building them up with new spokes may be a better and cheaper option than going for an all-new, machine-built wheel.

What is a rib?

Originally posted by Baby Huey
What is a rib?

Ooops! Sorry. Rim.:)