Bicycle Mechanics - Best way to strip a frame?

I'm planning on having a frame powdercoated but i need to strip it first. What is the best way to strip all the paint off. Thanks.

Don't know if it's the best way or not, but I went to Pep Boys and picked up a spray-can of aircraft stripper. It's in the spraypaint section. Worked great on the powder coat of my old aluminum Cannondale. You'll want scrub brushes of different sizes, shapes, and stiffness, latex gloves, and goggles.

bead blast

Wouldn't the powder coat place do it for you? Maybe this is a cost saving meaure on your part?

Second a gentle bead blast media.

I just stipped an aluminum frame. Cost me $15 in material. Go to Home Depot, get the blue can stripper, eye protection and rubber gloves.

The key is to spray the stuff on and LET IT WORK. I let it soak for 20 minutes and then hit it with a high-pressure hose. I did this three times. Very little effort required.

I had just a couple small spots around the bosses that I had to sand by hand.

BTW, I left mine natural aluminim. It looks very cool.

-Z

I just stipped an aluminum frame. Cost me $15 in material. Go to Home Depot, get the blue can stripper, eye protection and rubber gloves.

The key is to spray the stuff on and LET IT WORK. I let it soak for 20 minutes and then hit it with a high-pressure hose. I did this three times. Very little effort required.

I had just a couple small spots around the bosses that I had to sand by hand.

BTW, I left mine natural aluminim. It looks very cool.

-Z

Anyone know if this would work on my 12 years old steel frame? I kinda want to strip it, and seal it. What do I use to seal it to avoid rust. Am I asking for trouble here?

Matt

Angle grinder with steel wire brush. Nothing beats it!

Use a smaller wire brush that fits a drill or dremel for the hard to reach spots. Go easy on the pressure ( don't push it into the frame, let the brush do the work) and be sure not to rest the spinning brush on one spot for too long though, because it'll scratch or even damage the steel (or whatever your frame is made of).

If you can, use an angle grinder that has variable speed control, because most wire brushes are not designed to spin at 13,000 plus rpm. My grinder has only one speed, so I switched it on/off to keep the revs down, but it still worked like charm. Oh, and wear heavy duty gloves and protective goggles and a dust mask . Took me about an hour to completely strip an old steel road frame. Enjoy!

Sorry Batavus;

Some Barry White, Champale and a messager. Nothing beats it!

Use a smaller for the hard to reach spots. Go easy on the pressure ( don't push it into the frame, let the messager do the work) and be sure not to rest the messageron one spot for too long though, because it'll damage whatever your frame is made of.

If you can, use an angle grinder that has variable speed control, because most messagers are not designed to spin at 13,000 plus rpm. My messager has only one speed, so I switched it on/off to keep the revs down, but it still worked like charm. Oh, and wear heavy duty gloves and protective goggles and a dust mask . Took me about an hour to completely strip an old steel road frame. Enjoy!

pointless, I know...

Enjoy

I'll second the aircraft remover. It strips the hell out of paint and varnish.

Sorry Batavus;

Some Barry White, Champale and a messager. Nothing beats it!

Use a smaller for the hard to reach spots. Go easy on the pressure ( don't push it into the frame, let the messager do the work) and be sure not to rest the messageron one spot for too long though, because it'll damage whatever your frame is made of.

If you can, use an angle grinder that has variable speed control, because most messagers are not designed to spin at 13,000 plus rpm. My messager has only one speed, so I switched it on/off to keep the revs down, but it still worked like charm. Oh, and wear heavy duty gloves and protective goggles and a dust mask . Took me about an hour to completely strip an old steel road frame. Enjoy!

pointless, I know...

Enjoy

LOL!!!! Jeeezz.. dude.. or dudette...you just made me smile like I just heard a Bill Hicks or Eddie Izzard joke! Ok, ok, that's too much credit.

First time I try to give some advice in stead of asking a question... I get dissed!!!! But I like it :-)

I've never personally tried this, but you might be able to take it to an automotive type machine shop and have it dipped. I don't believe the chemicals they use will harm any metal components as long as their is no carbon fiber involved.

There are clear paints meant to go directly on metal surfaces.

Check auto parts stores for Dupli-Color's Engine Enamel, which comes in a Clear, and can be sprayed directly onto metal. For extra adhesion they also have a clear Adhesion Promoter, which is a clear primer for use on metal or plastic surfaces. Works great!

You can get a very durable and rust proof coating if you strip the frame, sand it smooth with some high grit (600 and up) wet/dry sandpaper, lightly moistened. Dry very well, and wipe down with mineral spirits or some totally volatile cleaner. Paint immediately after clean and dry, to prevent flash rust. I lay down two coats of the adhesion promoter, then 3 or 4 thin coats of the clear engine enamel. Durable stuff, and should protect the frame well.

peace,
sam

I used this stuff to clearcoat my Al frame after stripping. You can brush it or spray it directly on bare metal. I brushed it with a foam brush. It took a little getting used to the technique, but it came out OK for an amateur.

http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=246

Not to be argumentative with a previous post, but I've heard it's not a good idea to leave Al bare. The oxidation can make it brittle, and doesn't really look all that great either since it won't oxidize evenly. Just what I've heard.

If you are getting it powder coated have the shop strip the frame in a bath and/or bead blasting. That is the best and proper way to do the job right. Any liability from crappy prep job will be on your end if you do it, the shop has the right stuff to get it done.