3 speed cruiser gearing
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Just picked up a used Nirve Night Owl 3-speed and I'm surprised at how spaced out the gearing is. I prefer to spin and it seems as though the low gear could be lower for better climbing and the high is way too high. Usable speeds on this type of a bike is 10-23-ish perhaps and the cadence in high gear is way too low.
Am I right thinking if I change the front chain ring to smaller, and the rear to bigger, the result will be lower and closer overall ratios? http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=467372 |
Most 3 speed hubs come with an 18 tooth cog I all most always change it to a 20-22 tooth cog. On a cruiser type bike I would go 21 or 22 tooth . They are cheap and easy to change I would try that before I looked at the front chain ring.
Roy |
AW3 cogs range from 13t to 22 t..
use your Math ? 22t hub 44t crank is a 1:2 gear x 26" wheel = a 52" gear wheel turns twice as many times as the cranks.. |
Thanks plumberroy, I've changed them before so I'm thinking I'll try a 22 and see how that feels.
fietbob, I wasn't sure how the math/formula worked with 3 speeds. One of the gears is 1/1, correct? What are the other 2, are they all a standard multiplier? |
First is usually 1 /.66, Second is 1/1, and third is 1.33/1
I run my bikes so 3rd is normal cruise at about 65 gear inch.:D Tim |
^^ 3rd and first are inverse fractions of each other ( so the .66 is a bit off..
thats 2/3 not 3/4 so high would have to be 3/2 ; 1.5) AW3 is 3/4; 1 ; and 4/3 ; .75/1/1.33 .. |
My experience is that ALL 3-speed internal hubs seem to be geared too widely. If I were in hilly or mountainous terrain, I could see the spacing that the hubs use, but I'm not. EVERYTHING around here is FLAT, and with a 3-speed, only the middle gear is usable - period.
It would be nice if hub makers offered "close-range" 3-speed hubs that would make all three gears usable, but they don't. Of course, if I lived someplace like San Francisco, I'd want WIDER gear spacing on those hubs, so there's no pleasing everyone. My response is to avoid 3-speeds. Seven or eight is about right for me (internal or derailleur). But most of the time, I ride a single-speed coaster brake. It suits my needs fine. |
Strmey used to sell both a close ratio and a fixed gear 3 speed hub. You still see them from time to time. The reason you don't see them is about 90% of the production was aimed at the AW hub. Roger
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If you switch to a cog with more teeth and a chainring with fewer teeth- you will lower the gearing, however the relative step between each gear will remain the same.
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Thanks for the input, it seems like -30/+30% is way too wide, seems like +/-15% would be more useable on a bicycle. I'll have to play around with it a bit.
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Originally Posted by plumberroy
(Post 18018992)
Most 3 speed hubs come with an 18 tooth cog I all most always change it to a 20-22 tooth cog. On a cruiser type bike I would go 21 or 22 tooth . They are cheap and easy to change I would try that before I looked at the front chain ring.
Roy |
3 speeds are usually best set up as flat land gear on the 3rd gear, with a low for hills and a "granny" gear for really steep hills. I have a Shimano Nexus 7 hub on my cruiser. The steps on that hub are almost exactly 15% across the range. It was replaced with an 8 speed hub that has bigger changes (25%?) between 1st and 2nd,and between 7th and 8th. You can still get the 7 speed, either NOS or used. Mine is geared so that 5th is a little short (65"), and 6th is a bit tall (75") with 7th as a downhill/ with-the-wind gear. I've thought about getting a one tooth larger rear, but the way it is now, on a longer ride, I do 6th as a flat land gear, and drop to 5th if I get tired.
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I have the mid gear on my 3 speed a 57.9.. start in low(43.4) . High is a 77..
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