Swapping out a rear cog
New to this forum, have a beach cruiser that was given to me several years ago, have been riding the hell out of it (6600 miles total and about 2600 per year). Finally needed to change out the rear rim (lots of broken spokes) didn't pay attention to the teeth count of the cog on the new but used rim.
Now I'm not liking riding it so much.
1) Are they easy to change,
2) Are they rim/brand specfic or
3) Do I just look for another rim with the cog I need?
4) Teeth count suggestions for my riding style (illustrated below) front/rear
History- Front is 44, rear old cog was 13, my new one is 16. Don't like it because my speeds have dropped dramatically and my cadence is up dramatically. While the 13 was great, I'm thinking a 14 might be better. I do like the 16 on hills and against the wind but for flat out hammering it really sucks. I like to get out there and hang with road bike guys and the 16 is way too slow and I'm redlining my heart rate below 20 mph! Like to roll 17-20 at a comfortable cadence which the 13 provided.
Love this bike and I do everything on it from commuting to work to using it for exercise/recreation on hills, fast flats and long distances (30-50 mainly with rides here and there of 80-100). At the moment I prefer to keep it SS.
3G Venice model, no idea what year and what is original on the bike other than the handlebars.
Working blind so, It's a Guess.. just short of IDK from what you offer.
Lots of coaster brake hubs use the same cogs as S-A 3 speeds ,
they are likely also a snap ring holding them on too.
What F-Bobsaid: your Venice likely has a KT coaster hub; any Sturmey-Archer/ Shimano Nexus/generic 3spd or cb cog will fit. You'll need to pry off the snapring, and it might be a good idea to have a spare snapring handy, in case you muff it up while removing it. I tend to use a big ol' flathead screwdriver to remove and install snaprings.
They're easy to change, and cheap to obtain. Do an eBay search for "sturmey cog" or "sturmey sprocket", and take your pick. You shouldn't need to pay more than $5-6 for one, and they go from 13T to 24T. Make sure you don't buy one for an 8-speed Sturmey-Archer...the picture will look similar, but it's a totally different animal.
^What they said^
Also, Amazon sells them for around the $4-$6 range, as well.
Edit: Make sure the cog has three tabs...just any old cog won't do, but Sturmey-Archer and Shimano Nexus cogs most definitely will.
Thanks guys. I'm more of an Amazon shopper and yes Amazon does have them and they have the 14T one that I'd like to try.
Searching by cog produced many more results than sprocket which surprised me.
I'll have to take a closer look at mine, I hope it'll fit.
The larger cogs are more numerous, makes sense as most people cruise on their cruisers.
$5 and free shipping, wow.:thumb:
It is surprising b/c, although virtually all of us use the term (myself included), the toothy thing attached to our rear hub is not actually a cog at all....
Originally Posted by yodatic
You guys are great. surreal, thanks. Got the Sturmey-Archer type and it fits perfectly. Snap ring was pretty easy to R&R. Pretty painless to change it out.
It looks like I remembered the tooth count incorrectly (memory failing rapidly!) as I just pulled off a 19T (which I thought was a 16T). Bought a 14T so this should be really interesting. Will probably be too hard to push especially against the wind but for $5 and free shipping, I'll just get another after I try this out. Looking forward to my commute home, hope I can keep the chain on, it's pretty loose!
Spacely sprocket or Cogswell cogs, the only 2 I am aware of. :D
Originally Posted by yodatic
The distinction is: one meshes with chains, whereas the other meshes with other cogs. I believe that most shaft drive bikes have cogs but, none of my bikes have any cogs.
The other one we cyclists get wrong is "dynamo".
@HBCruiser1 I'm glad it worked out. Personally, i like to have a few sizes on hand, for future projects/just in case.
@DEW21 nice shout out to the Jetsons!
Man that 13T is hard to push. Feels a lot better than spinning and bouncing on the seat at 17mph, but too tall to push around all the time. A comfortable cadence doesn't come on until around 22mph. My knees are sore from too low a cadence after a 20 mile test ride last night.
Turns out my old one I liked is a 16T, but I'd like to climb hills slightly easier so I'm going to order a 17T and see how that feels.
If not, I'll go back to the 16T.
Thanks again, great to see they are pretty interchangeable. I had assumed most of the hub manufacturers would have their own style and it'd be a hassle to ID the proper one especially since my hub didn't have a name on it.
Another question: Chains. Mine is getting really stretched out (starting to wear the teeth), are there major differences in quality or are they all pretty much the same? I've put a lot of hard miles on it and it hasn't broken so I'd like to maintain the quality if there's a difference. I climb some hills on this bike where I have to stand up and I'm over 200 lbs.
Chains? I guess everyone has their preferences, but I tend to run KMCs. Cheaper, the better, in my book. The 410h are super-old school, with bushings, if you're into old-tech. If not, the z410 and the various offshoots of that (with the bushingless construction) are tops. And, most importantly, strong and cheap. (Remember: light, strong, cheap---pick 2. I always go for strong and cheap for cruisers... well, sometimes not cheap...)
The "z" chains are available in colors, or just brown or nickel-plated for the less ostentatious cruiser aficionado. They come with a handy quick-link, and are easily trimmed down to fit your gearing.
Thanks. What does bushings vs. no bushings mean? I've never heard of those terms (though I didn't realize chains were so diverse!).
No colors for me.
The bushings were tubes that guided the chain pins between the inner plates. Most chains today are bushingless, but the inner plates have half the tubes integrated. Bushings stiffen the chain laterally (good for ss and igh; bad for derailers) and are old-school cool. Bushingless chains are said to run more smoothly, b/c the plates are beveled, and they shift nice on multispeed set-ups. B/c there are fewer parts, bushingless arguably wear out less quickly.
I like bushing-type chains, but mostly b/c i'm nostalgic. The industry has mostly moved to bushingless due to lower manufacturing costs and better performance.
ps- in an earlier post, i mentioned 410h and z410. Also look for z510.