Tandem Tom

I have been riding, just started, my 1984 Miyata 610. I notice that the brake arms have some play on the stud. I was wondering about replacing the bushing in the arm? I see McMaster/Carr has quite a selection but not sure which kind. Thoughts?
Off hand I cannot remember the model # of these brakes but there work with the 27" to 700C conversion so I would like to keep them.
Thanks!

Andrew R Stewart 

You'll find out that the arm bushing isn't meant to be replaceable and that there are none on the market claiming to be suitable. I have shimmed the stud/bushing but that gets tricky to find just the right thickness shim, an assorted shim stock kit would be a good choice here.

But the slop usually isn't an issue to worry about. Every canti and Vee brake has a bit of looseness on the studs. The far greater issue is when corrosion has caused the arm to not freely rotate on the stud.

Is the canti's performance during stopping a problem? If not then leave well enough alone. Andy.

Tandem Tom

Andrew, Thanks for replying! The braking works fine. I guess I was thinking the the old bushing could be pressed out and the new pressed in. The shim stock idea is interesting. If I pursue this would I "wrap" the stud?

dsbrantjr

If the brakes function properly best to leave them alone. Never Fix A Running Piece.

FastJake

If there's too much play the brakes will "clunk" when you first apply them as they move toward the bolts and slam into them. Some careful shim work can fix this issue. If they don't clunk and feel solid I would leave them alone.

fietsbob

Shim Washers Under the Fixing bolt can take up Slack where the Brakes Move forward on the front Posts when applied ,

Rear ones have a Shoulder on the Boss the cantilever Bushing Butts up against when the Brakes are Applied..

Andrew R Stewart 

My reference of shims is to wrap shims around the studs (as the OP guessed). Andy.

Tandem Tom

Andrew, I assume I would use brass?

Andrew R Stewart 

TT- Yes, that is what I have used. Andy.