Rival 22 hydro cable routing issue
#1
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Rival 22 hydro cable routing issue
I've recently bought a Cannondale CAADX Rival 22 Disc 2015 and I'm having a strange problem with the shifter cable routing.
The bend from the shifters is simply creating too much drag on the cable to complete smooth shifting without giving a helping push.... What's annoying me is it is the factory setup, nothing has been upgraded or changed.
Anyway it appears the angle the cable routes out of the shifter then into the harsh bend on the inside of the bars create an S bend in the cable.... Now after researching I see some shifters have an option to route the cable out straight and round the less harsh rear of the bars, but after checking the new Rival 22 Hydro shifter do not give this option!!
As a temporary solution I have left the cable outside of the grip and the gears work fine, but this cannot be a permanent solution as they are in the way! I am waiting for the suppliers to get back to me but they are slooooow, just wondering if anyone else has this same setup and or the same problem?
I THINK I've attached photos, but will see when I post this!!!
Thanks,
The bend from the shifters is simply creating too much drag on the cable to complete smooth shifting without giving a helping push.... What's annoying me is it is the factory setup, nothing has been upgraded or changed.
Anyway it appears the angle the cable routes out of the shifter then into the harsh bend on the inside of the bars create an S bend in the cable.... Now after researching I see some shifters have an option to route the cable out straight and round the less harsh rear of the bars, but after checking the new Rival 22 Hydro shifter do not give this option!!
As a temporary solution I have left the cable outside of the grip and the gears work fine, but this cannot be a permanent solution as they are in the way! I am waiting for the suppliers to get back to me but they are slooooow, just wondering if anyone else has this same setup and or the same problem?
I THINK I've attached photos, but will see when I post this!!!
Thanks,
#2
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Have you try crossing the cables ? Instead of run the cable on the right side (drive side ) of the bike , run it to the cable stop on the left side ( non drive side ) cross it over under the bottom bracket to the stop and to the rear derailleur then do the same to the other side and the cables will cross under the downtube . it might look odd at first but it will save on the housing rubbing on the headtube and removing paint , but the housing and cables will have better craves to them and work better .
#3
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Have you try crossing the cables ? Instead of run the cable on the right side (drive side ) of the bike , run it to the cable stop on the left side ( non drive side ) cross it over under the bottom bracket to the stop and to the rear derailleur then do the same to the other side and the cables will cross under the downtube . it might look odd at first but it will save on the housing rubbing on the headtube and removing paint , but the housing and cables will have better craves to them and work better .
but that's not my immediate issue, mine is where the cable bend under the grips from the shifter is too harsh, I'm having to leave the cable out of the grip for it to move freely enough. Older Rival shifters show an optional gear cable exit so the cable can run around the rear of the bars, but these don't appear to give that option
#4
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Here a thought , maybe the cable and housing goes under the tape like the brake does ? that would be my guess from looking at your photos and the way the cable leave the lever/shifter . on the other hand maybe the housing is too long or too short to run from the shifter to the stop , it hard to tell from your photos . Maybe you can take another one from the side showing the cable running to the stop .
#5
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Here a thought , maybe the cable and housing goes under the tape like the brake does ? that would be my guess from looking at your photos and the way the cable leave the lever/shifter . on the other hand maybe the housing is too long or too short to run from the shifter to the stop , it hard to tell from your photos . Maybe you can take another one from the side showing the cable running to the stop .
#6
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Ok , then it must be the housing length is the problem then , like it too short . One way to find out is to tape it to the bar where it was , and turn the handlebar to the right and see if it try or will pop out of the stop , if so it too short . if it is the right size it wouldn't pop out It should have a nice crave to it as it goes around the headtube with maybe a little space between the housing and the headtube .Find another one being longer than the one you have now , this might also include a new cable too . doing this should solve your problem .
#7
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It looks like your housing is the wrong length. I have Force 22 hydro levers on one bike, and both the brake hose and derailleur cable/housing are routed along the front of the handlebar. No problems shifting, etc.
#9
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Milehighmark, as in too long or short? I thought was ok and my LBS never said either?
Operator, now I didn't realise that although it is very sensitive, much more of an angle than what it is out of the tape and it drags!
Did I mention the left shifter has the same problem, just not as bad?!
Operator, now I didn't realise that although it is very sensitive, much more of an angle than what it is out of the tape and it drags!
Did I mention the left shifter has the same problem, just not as bad?!
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Part of the problem may be the combination of the lever position and handlebar reach. I'm running Zipp Service Course 70-Ergo bars, and the cables follow the curve with no kinks, etc.
#11
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Must be... I've messed about with changing positions etc, tempted to buy different bars or I saw something about cabling which is designed for tighter angles!
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It was ok for literally the first 3-4 miles, it's been to a LBS had 2 new cables, both were ok for a test ride then failed... But getting rid of the harsh angle against the bars is the only way to stop the problem.... Have my bars got a harsher angle than most?! :-/
#14
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Another solution would be look at Jagwire's Link shift kit. The housing allows much more flexibility in tight bends to reduce friction.
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Yes they are the stock bars, I haven't changed anything at all, I don't know the reach, but I do understand what you are saying, I'm sure others that might have bought this bike must have had the same problem, I'm really surprised I haven't found a mention of it anywhere!
the store are now offering to take the bike back and check it over, I'm starting to kick myself for not buying locally, I'll learn for future!
ahh that jagwire looks like it could do the trick, I did actually read about a similar housing, I think it was from a company called Nokon or similar... Thanks for the link
the store are now offering to take the bike back and check it over, I'm starting to kick myself for not buying locally, I'll learn for future!
ahh that jagwire looks like it could do the trick, I did actually read about a similar housing, I think it was from a company called Nokon or similar... Thanks for the link
#16
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I'll be interested in hearing what the Cannondale rep/bike shop says.
#17
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I couldn't see anything on Jagwire about where to order from but I'm sure a Google search later will sort that.
I never actually thought to email Connondale directly to see what they say!
I never actually thought to email Connondale directly to see what they say!
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The bike shop are collecting the bike tomorrow to investigate further, I was hoping to avoid this hassle but never mind, I suppose that way they'll get get it sorted one way or another!
messaged cannondale directly today also, just waiting on their response.
messaged cannondale directly today also, just waiting on their response.
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Just to update Cannondale's response was to ask the dealer to phone them!
The shop took the bike back serviced it and sent it back to me without even looking at the fault! they are supposed to be collecting it from me again this afternoon! I'm missing some serious riding time here!
The shop took the bike back serviced it and sent it back to me without even looking at the fault! they are supposed to be collecting it from me again this afternoon! I'm missing some serious riding time here!
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Interesting. I just got my CAADX Rival put together and will start sorting it out on a ride today on a short 15-miler. Initial observations from riding up and down the street in the neighborhood indicate that the shifting seems to be working well, but I'll know more after a few rides. If I find anything odd, I'll post here. And if I get a chance to take some pics of the routing on my levers, I'll post them, too. I hope your issue is a one-off thing (for my sake), and I hope you can solve your problem (for your sake). I'll check back after my ride.
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Interesting. I just got my CAADX Rival put together and will start sorting it out on a ride today on a short 15-miler. Initial observations from riding up and down the street in the neighborhood indicate that the shifting seems to be working well, but I'll know more after a few rides. If I find anything odd, I'll post here. And if I get a chance to take some pics of the routing on my levers, I'll post them, too. I hope your issue is a one-off thing (for my sake), and I hope you can solve your problem (for your sake). I'll check back after my ride.
I expect it is a one off thing as I cant find anything about it and the shop hasn't had any other complaints yet!
I love the bike itself though, I have thought about giving up and swapping it, but I cant find anything in that store at that price range that I want to replace it with.
Please do post on here would be very much appreciated, thanks
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Mawwam,
I got the bike out on a 20-mile ride today and had no issues other than some of the fine tuning things that usually need to be done. The shifting was fine - everything seemed to be working as it is supposed to. I sure don't know what's going on with your shifters. I'll try to remember to ask our shop manager about your issues when I go in to work on Friday. Just for reference, I peeled back the hood and tape a bit and took a shot of my cables. Looks just like yours. Hope you get things worked out.
I got the bike out on a 20-mile ride today and had no issues other than some of the fine tuning things that usually need to be done. The shifting was fine - everything seemed to be working as it is supposed to. I sure don't know what's going on with your shifters. I'll try to remember to ask our shop manager about your issues when I go in to work on Friday. Just for reference, I peeled back the hood and tape a bit and took a shot of my cables. Looks just like yours. Hope you get things worked out.
#23
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Yep exactly the same... Well glad all is well with yours, it is a nice ride!
Maybe I just need complete new cables and housing fitted from scratch! We'll see
Maybe I just need complete new cables and housing fitted from scratch! We'll see
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Today's indexed shifting cabling needs a superb lubricant and only a superbe lubricant.
I'll use nothing but Shimano's cable grease (expensive) or the Finish-Line lube for Grip Shifters when I work on 9, 10 and 11s cabling.
These lubes are both silicone based, and with PTFE, so will not oxidize, evaporate, permeate cable liners or thicken with age like petro greases do.
Shimano's better SP41 housing is pre-lubed along it's entire length with this type of lube.
I also avoid using handlebars with sharp bends on my own bikes.
I'll use nothing but Shimano's cable grease (expensive) or the Finish-Line lube for Grip Shifters when I work on 9, 10 and 11s cabling.
These lubes are both silicone based, and with PTFE, so will not oxidize, evaporate, permeate cable liners or thicken with age like petro greases do.
Shimano's better SP41 housing is pre-lubed along it's entire length with this type of lube.
I also avoid using handlebars with sharp bends on my own bikes.