cderalow

My CAAD10 has the rear brake cable internally routed through the top tube.

On most internally routed bikes, I've seen this enter through the side of the top tube. on the CAAD10, it enters straight from the front.

like so:


Now, this was fine with the stock spacers/headset cap etc configuration with a big loop of brake cable.

That's not my situation. my fit has me down with only 10mm of spacer + a slam that stem top cap.

my brake cable kinks the housing until the housing fails at that point.

Anyone have a suggestion for a firmer entrance into the tube? different housing type? I've heard nokon housing is rigid, but expensive. Maybe 1-2 pieces of nokon then regular housing? Jagwire link housing?

Anyone have a few extra links floating around?

dsbrantjr

Flexible noodle? Gobike88 KREX V Brake Noodle 85mm Flexible 2pcs C13 | eBay

fietsbob

Jagwire makes some too .. https://jagwire.com/img/products/lg/BSA041.jpg


Perhaps your rear brake housing, if just longer, won't do that. replace housing and cable.


another jagwire widget .. Anti-Kink End Caps | Jagwire

mconlonx

If you shortened the drop, did you also shorten the original housing appropriately?

Nokon offers an extension kit of 42 pcs, which I'm seeing online in the $30 range...

cderalow

Housing is all new and has been shortened. it hasn't mattered the length from what I would think it too short to too long... it's kinked right at the entrance to the head tube.

on my 4th piece of housing now.

james.stewartg

Where did you obtain the two small covers for the mech cable stops on the down tube? My frame didn't come with them and I'd rather have them in than keep the mech ones in since my bike is Di2.

FBinNY 

You want to add some strain relief similar to what you see on vacuum cleaner power cords. How you might do that depends on the exact details.

The key issue is whether the housing continues through the frame, or if there's a stop at the fitting with only the bare wire continuing. If there' a stop, you can try one of the JagWire strain relief ferrules, or improvise something similar.

For continuous housing you'll need to be creative. You can try to find a spring, or wrap some stiff tape in the right place, or try heat shrink tubing or some combination.

Whatever you do, the objective is to stiffen the housing near the frame, yet allow progressively more flex as you move out. Done right, it'll allow the housing to flex, but prevent all the strain being concentrated at the fulcrum.

This is a test of your mechanical creativity, since there's no canned answer and you have to create one on your own.

BTW- another option may be to tinker with how the housing leaves the handle bar, letting out earlier, or in a way that leads it more forward allowing a longer loop.

Lastly it may come down to extra care when handling the bike. There's very limited handlebar swing when riding. Your problem is what happens off the bike, so you might need to be careful about letting the wheel turn too far.

sch

FB as usual has laid it out. The problem is that the brake cables as routed on the OP bike impinge and when the bar is turned far enough the housing
kinks. A flexible housing may or may not help: it has to be completely rigid in compression and yet bendy, not an easy combo. The recumbent
guys came up with brakes that pull from the bottom, maybe someone can persuade Shimano to make a front brake with the cable pull on the L
side to reduce impingement with the rear brake cable. Would work for electric shifting like the OP bike, but not so much for mechanical shifters
where front brake cable housing is going to run into the shifter housings anyway.

My CF frame lets the rear brake cable enter the top tube on the top L, but this means turning the bar far to the L moves the housing way out.
Solution was a zip tie around the top tube an inch or so in front of the top tube cable entrance. That won't help the OP, routing the fr brake
housing closer to the head tube would restrict the bar movement if any anchor was used to hold it in place.

Lee_Malone

I had the same problem on my caad10 and solved it by running the outer housing through the frame in 1 piece.

So far this seems to work really well. The housing only just fits the entrance hole, so no rattling issues. Bike is 50g heavier now though

corrado33

Couldn't you just use a rear caliper on the front? To my knowledge both have cable pulls on the right side of the bike, when you move the rear to the front it'd then be on the left side of the bike? Also, many BMX bikes have pulls on the left side of the bike.

Andrew R Stewart 

OK, I'll be the guy who says it. This is some of the cost of using a bike with poor cable routing design. Andy.

CliffordK

What about braided cable housing? It might be at least worth trying. Is it braided over coiled? Braided over linear wires?

VO Metallic Braid Brake Cable Kits

I'm not sure of a specific brand, but VO might be worth a try.

You might also look at some of the super expensive cable housings. Dura Ace? Are they fundamentally different?

fietsbob

or add Heat Shrink Tubing .. heat it to shrink it over the part that kinks to stiffen It , there.

Jamminatrix

Yes, Jaguar Link cables are what you seek. Perfect for tight bends and cannot kink.

Road Elite Link Brake | Jagwire