11 speeds on FH-5700 rear hub
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11 speeds on FH-5700 rear hub
All
I'm building a new frame up with an 11 speed Shimano 6800 drivetrain. I'd like to keep using a wheelset I have that is 10 speed, with a 105 rear hub (FH-5700). Assuming I can buy an 11 speed freehub, I know I'll have to redish the wheel but how do I adjust the non drive side to account for the longer freehub? There appears to be a spacer between the cone and the locknut, do I remove that? Or replace it with a smaller one? Also am I correct that I won't need a new axle, just have to rearrange everything on it to recenter the rim.
Thanks for your help !
I'm building a new frame up with an 11 speed Shimano 6800 drivetrain. I'd like to keep using a wheelset I have that is 10 speed, with a 105 rear hub (FH-5700). Assuming I can buy an 11 speed freehub, I know I'll have to redish the wheel but how do I adjust the non drive side to account for the longer freehub? There appears to be a spacer between the cone and the locknut, do I remove that? Or replace it with a smaller one? Also am I correct that I won't need a new axle, just have to rearrange everything on it to recenter the rim.
Thanks for your help !
#2
commu*ist spy
I think the difference between 10 and 11 is small enough for you to switch out the freehub without messing with the rim. I did it with my farsports tubulars without any problems. pretty sure the same appllies to shimano but to make sure, their tech service is a phone call away
#3
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To do it "right" you'd use a shorter spacer on the NDS and re-dish.
IF, for example, the FH is 2mm longer, subtract 2mm from the NDS spacer.
The bad part is- it's more difficult to dish in that direction, since the DS already has higher spoke tensions.
Your NDS tension will become even less.
IF, for example, the FH is 2mm longer, subtract 2mm from the NDS spacer.
The bad part is- it's more difficult to dish in that direction, since the DS already has higher spoke tensions.
Your NDS tension will become even less.
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Thanks for the replies guys. I was thrown off b the following statement in an article from performancebike (Our Take: 10-Speed vs. 11-Speed | The Performance Bicycle Blog)
"Contrary to what you read on many bike message boards, you do need a new rear wheel; the reason being that the new wider cassettes require a wider axle than a 9/10-speed wheel."
Given that my frane still has 130mm spacing I don't understand why I'd need a new axle. The locknut-to-locknut distance has to stay 130mm or the wheel won't fit my frame.
It sounds like the 11 speed freehub is 1.8mm longer so I'm guessing I need to take 1.85mm off the non-driveside somehow, just want to confirm.
"Contrary to what you read on many bike message boards, you do need a new rear wheel; the reason being that the new wider cassettes require a wider axle than a 9/10-speed wheel."
Given that my frane still has 130mm spacing I don't understand why I'd need a new axle. The locknut-to-locknut distance has to stay 130mm or the wheel won't fit my frame.
It sounds like the 11 speed freehub is 1.8mm longer so I'm guessing I need to take 1.85mm off the non-driveside somehow, just want to confirm.
#6
Really Old Senior Member
Thanks for the replies guys. I was thrown off b the following statement in an article from performancebike (Our Take: 10-Speed vs. 11-Speed | The Performance Bicycle Blog)
"Contrary to what you read on many bike message boards, you do need a new rear wheel; the reason being that the new wider cassettes require a wider axle than a 9/10-speed wheel."
Given that my frane still has 130mm spacing I don't understand why I'd need a new axle. The locknut-to-locknut distance has to stay 130mm or the wheel won't fit my frame.
It sounds like the 11 speed freehub is 1.8mm longer so I'm guessing I need to take 1.85mm off the non-driveside somehow, just want to confirm.
"Contrary to what you read on many bike message boards, you do need a new rear wheel; the reason being that the new wider cassettes require a wider axle than a 9/10-speed wheel."
Given that my frane still has 130mm spacing I don't understand why I'd need a new axle. The locknut-to-locknut distance has to stay 130mm or the wheel won't fit my frame.
It sounds like the 11 speed freehub is 1.8mm longer so I'm guessing I need to take 1.85mm off the non-driveside somehow, just want to confirm.
In reality, you [probably won't find a spacer that's EXACTLY 1.8mm shorter unless you have one machined.
2.0 is plenty close enough.
You're only moving the rim about 1mm over.
You probably would never notice it if you didn't redish.
You'll find LBS bikes that are off more.
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Skip the first portion on rotor trimming and see the second portion where Leonard talks about converting a 10-speed freehub to 11-speed.
How to convert a 10-speed 29er wheel to a ?cross disc hoop and align rotors - VeloNews.com
How to convert a 10-speed 29er wheel to a ?cross disc hoop and align rotors - VeloNews.com
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That's a Shimano freehub, as opposed to a Shimano compatible freehub. I don't think you are going to find that an 11 speed freehub will interchange. Though I've been wrong before.... I know the Ultegra 10 and 11 hubs are very different, even the freehub attachment bolt is a different size.
Last edited by shelbyfv; 05-16-15 at 06:30 AM.
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Shimano hubs are not upgradeable to 11 speed, if 10 speed from the factory, you should have budgeted for this when looking at upgrading to 11 speed.
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That's a Shimano freehub, as opposed to a Shimano compatible freehub. I don't think you are going to find that an 11 speed freehub will interchange. Though I've been wrong before.... I know the Ultegra 10 and 11 hubs are very different, even the freehub attachment bolt is a different size.
The article describes the modification of a Shimano freehub, which is what the OP described, to accept a Sram 11-speed cassette.
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You mean I have to actually read the entire post? Ouch! This solution looks pretty promising, I see the little feet he refers to on the freehub. I think I'll get out the Dremel!
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That article describes a destructive method of fitting a 11 speed cassette, and there will be no going back or re-sale value after it's done, just scrap metal value, fine if you are happy with this.
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Why not just buy a 105 or Ultegra 5800/6800 hub, and rebuild the wheel. A bit of a hassle to do, but not the end of the world.
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