Casrol Edge motor oil versus bike shop oil?
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Casrol Edge motor oil versus bike shop oil?
Is it possible to use this motor oil on bikes as it is $10 a quart instead of $10 for a few ounces. .................................................................................................... ..............................................
EDGE Extended Performance Motor OilEngine oils need to be able to constantly respond to the ever-changing environments in your engine. Every second of the drive your engine oil needs to be able to react to the needs of different metal-to-metal contact points in your engine each with different demands, pressures and temperatures. Castrol EDGE Extended Performance with Titanium FST provides unsurpassed protection for critical engine parts, ensuring optimal performance – with the strength to enable an extended drain interval of up to 15,000 miles. Independent testing has proven EDGE Extended Performance stronger than Mobil 1 Extended Performance against viscosity breakdown – the ultimate test of strength.*
EDGE Extended Performance Motor OilEngine oils need to be able to constantly respond to the ever-changing environments in your engine. Every second of the drive your engine oil needs to be able to react to the needs of different metal-to-metal contact points in your engine each with different demands, pressures and temperatures. Castrol EDGE Extended Performance with Titanium FST provides unsurpassed protection for critical engine parts, ensuring optimal performance – with the strength to enable an extended drain interval of up to 15,000 miles. Independent testing has proven EDGE Extended Performance stronger than Mobil 1 Extended Performance against viscosity breakdown – the ultimate test of strength.*
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Casrol Edge motor oil versus bike shop oil?
Probably will be just fine. Any lube at all gets you ninety or mor percent of the way their. Then it is just a matter of keeping up. Some lubes hang in longer than others. I avoid so-called dry lubes because they need to be reapplied more often than I care to bother with.
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Motor oil tends to be very messy when used on a bike. It is designed to be pumped throughout an engine and quickly drain back to the sump, thus it it does not stay where you put it.
#4
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Chainsaw bar oil may be a reasonable bargain, its a bit sticky..
Out here the woods workers put used motor oil in the tank that oils the cutting chain.
Out here the woods workers put used motor oil in the tank that oils the cutting chain.
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I think we maybe selling this synthetic motor oil short. I have been using it lately on some junkyard restorations, chains and all and am quite impressed with it. It certainly has staying power imo. i have been using wheel bearing grease for boat trailer on my bike restorations as well and it seems to work good to.
#6
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Any motor oil is going to contain additives which do nothing to lubricate.
Detergents, Viscosity Index Improvers etc.
A thin gear oil would probably make more sense.
Detergents, Viscosity Index Improvers etc.
A thin gear oil would probably make more sense.
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Add three parts mineral spirits and you will have a decent chain lube. Not a secret, look for chain lube threads
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You can use just about any oil for chain lube. Bike chains have pretty low lubrication requirements, and basically no heat to worry about (the bane of any lube).
The problem with most oils is their stickiness. If the oil isn't sticky, it comes off the chain, makes a mess, and you have to re-lube often. If the oil is sticky, it stays on but attracts lots of dirt.
Bar & Chain oil (for chainsaws) is about the best, for non-bike-specific oils. It's made for chains, after all. Use it, and you'll have smooth-running, quiet chains -- as long as they stay clean. An oiled chain turns black pretty quickly, and then stains everything it touches. All that dirt will wear out the tiny bearings in your chain.
Bike-specific lubes are made to lubricate effectively while not collecting filth. Some "dry" lubes are actually more wax than oil, or graphite in suspension, or some other cosmic materials. They cost more because they're precisely engineered to function best for a bicycle's unique requirements.
Think about your car: could you use the "wrong" weight oil in the engine? Yeah, probably. Would it work properly? Maybe not for long.
Feel free to use alternative lubes, but be prepared for their drawbacks. I used bar & chain oil for a while, but got sick of the filth and went back to Finish Line "dry" lube. Much cleaner.
The problem with most oils is their stickiness. If the oil isn't sticky, it comes off the chain, makes a mess, and you have to re-lube often. If the oil is sticky, it stays on but attracts lots of dirt.
Bar & Chain oil (for chainsaws) is about the best, for non-bike-specific oils. It's made for chains, after all. Use it, and you'll have smooth-running, quiet chains -- as long as they stay clean. An oiled chain turns black pretty quickly, and then stains everything it touches. All that dirt will wear out the tiny bearings in your chain.
Bike-specific lubes are made to lubricate effectively while not collecting filth. Some "dry" lubes are actually more wax than oil, or graphite in suspension, or some other cosmic materials. They cost more because they're precisely engineered to function best for a bicycle's unique requirements.
Think about your car: could you use the "wrong" weight oil in the engine? Yeah, probably. Would it work properly? Maybe not for long.
Feel free to use alternative lubes, but be prepared for their drawbacks. I used bar & chain oil for a while, but got sick of the filth and went back to Finish Line "dry" lube. Much cleaner.
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