jimmie65

This may be a dumb question, but I haven't been able to find an answer via google or on a previous thread.

I am rebuilding a Specialized Sport Rock (c. 1995). I'll need to run some new brake cable - the rear cable is missing some housing and the front cable is too short for taller handlebars. When I run the new cables and housing, is there a reason to not put housing on as much of the cable as possible?

Rear: I'm not sure it's possible to have housing on the rear cable along the top tube on the Sport Rock because the cable stops are not slotted. But my Giant Rincon has slotted cable stops and I can see an advantage to housing along the top tube (for example, to prevent a tube saddle bag from pushing down on the cable).

Front: On the Sport Rock, it would be possible on the front cable to run housing between the brake clamp and the cable stop. Other than providing a little more protection, I don't see much advantage to having housing on this part of the cable.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Retro Grouch 

"1995 Sport Rock" What kind of brakes does it have? I'm having a hard time envisioning your question.

If it has Shimano canty's, and you're doing that much work on the bike, I'd think about upgrading them to V-brakes anyway. The Shimano canty's of that era were recalled due to the nylon return spring retention cups cracking. When that happens one of the arms drags continuously against the rim. Shimano used to supply free replacements, but that was over 10 years ago so I don't know if they are still doing that. The cheap, dirty fix is to wrap the spring retention cup with a zip tie.

If you do decide to upgrade to V-brakes, you'll need to replace the brake levers and you'll probably need to run a continuous length of cable housing from the lever to the caliper.

HillRider

Even without slotted cable stops there is no reason you couldn't install a section of housing on the Sports Rock's top brake cable run between the stops. That section of housing wouldn't be "anchored" at the stops but if cut accurately would protect the frame and not move much at all.

jimmie65

It has cantilever brakes. One of the retention cups is cracked; I've actually already wrapped it with a zip tie until I have a chance to replace it. Replacing with v-brakes is a good idea.


Thanks. I had considered that, but wasn't sure if there would be any drawbacks.

Bill Kapaun

Longer housing will compress more.
Shorter housing "pieces" allow one to easily "unhook" things for easier cleaning/lube of the inner cable.

Darth Lefty 

I disagree about the V-brakes because you would need new brake levers/shifters too. Your current brake levers don't pull enough cable. I don't imagine you want to dump a lot of money into an inexpensive 20yo MTB, unless it's your baby, and cantis worked pretty well.

jimmie65

Definitely not my baby. The Sport Rock is actually a learning bike for me. It was rideable and mostly intact when I bought it for $15.00, so seemed like a good bike to learn on. I end up taking my day-to-day bike to the LBS because I don't want to screw it up or because I don't have the time to fix it myself.

I've got a salvaged set of v-brakes set aside and I think I kept the brake levers; if so, it costs only the cost of the cables and housing (which I'll be buying anyway) to switch out.

jimmie65

What issues will the cable compressing more cause? Less "coast" and more abrupt stopping?

dsbrantjr

Spongier brake feel,mostly, and less snappy return action due to greater friction.

HillRider

The bike the OP is asking about won't let him unhook the cables as the housing stops aren't slotted. The section of housing I mentioned could be installed over the top tube run of the brake cable will just be a cover and will butt up against the housing stops. It will see no compressive force.

Retro Grouch 

Three words "Jagwire ripcord housing"

It's compressionless so it can be used for either brakes or derailleurs. It makes a huge difference on mechanical disc brakes. Unfortunately, it's about twice the cost of ordinary brake cable housing but it's well worth the extra cost to me. It definitely makes lot more difference, at less cost, than upgrading a couple of component groups.

Darth Lefty 

What this guy paid for his bike: $15

Jagwire Ripcord brake cable set: $30

jimmie65

Exactly.

Retro Grouch 

He paid $15.00 for a bike that he can't ride. If you'll check out all of my posts, instead of just nit picking the ones you don't like, you'll see that I've proposed a range of possible solutions.

jimmie65

Didn't mean to offend. I may give your suggestion of the V-brakes for a try. But I don't want to put much money into a bike that, at best, will be a beach beater.

The bike's rideable as is, or at least was, until I switched the handlebars out.

ThermionicScott 

Who cares about the price differential. $45 total is still a great price for a bike that stops well.

Put another way: I got one of my favorite bikes for free. Should I not have been allowed to spend a cent on it?

Darth Lefty 

Depends what the wife says about this week's grocery budget :-p

Darth Lefty 

You're right, I've been peevish today. My apologies.

jimmie65

LOL. Budget for my commuter - pretty much what i need. Budget for the beater - whatever change I find laying around.

HillRider

Compare that to the cost and feeding of a car, any car. It makes the bike almost free no matter how much you put into it.

Retro Grouch 

MisterK

This sounds like an old early 90s norco i built up for locking up downtown etc. Got it for 20bux and by the time I was done I still had 80bux spent and a fancy older mtb.
did I love it? Sure. Did I learn from it? Sure did.
I will say, the 80bux put in would be more of I didn't have any extra parts or traded for some

elessar007

If you use housing between the stops you might want to put a cable donut or two at each end of the housing. They are just round rubber rings, usually black or clear, and they will compress slightly so that the extra housing fits snugly and the housing caps won't make noise hitting the stops every time you brake. The mechanic at your lbs should have some just laying around that they can give you for free when you buy the housing. If they want to charge you for two donuts then they are nuts. Just a thought.

SlowJoeCrow

If you really want to run full housing to the rear brake you could just run housing from the brake lever to the rear canti's cable hanger and just zip tie it to the frame. It's not pretty but it will work at the expense of more friction in the cable run. I have also seen some CX bikes modified to run full housing to the rear derailleur by reaming out the cable stops to allow the cable housing to pass through.