Forks: Suspension to Rigid
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Hello Riders,
I snapped off my cheap suspension forks at the drop outs. I want to get a new steel rigid fork but I'm not sure how to go about sizing the fork. Can anyone help me out?
Right... the bike is a giant sedona ... 2002 I think.
Thanks in advance!
Oh yeah... 19" frame. Came with RST forks.
I snapped off my cheap suspension forks at the drop outs. I want to get a new steel rigid fork but I'm not sure how to go about sizing the fork. Can anyone help me out?
Right... the bike is a giant sedona ... 2002 I think.
Thanks in advance!
Oh yeah... 19" frame. Came with RST forks.
Last edited by I_want_to_ride; 04-20-05 at 05:19 PM.
#2
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Your LBS can get a rigid fork from Surly that will work.
#4
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Location: Catching his breath alongside a road near Seattle, WA USA
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Bikes: 1999 K2 OzM, 2001 Aegis Aro Svelte
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The important measurements are:
Other things you'll of course want to make sure are correct include brake bosses. You probably need cantilever bosses but if your bike has calipers then you'll need a fork with the proper mounting hole and if you have disc brakes then you'll need a fork with disc tabs. Your best bet is to take this to a shop. You'll need them to help with some of the installation anyways as you'll have to pull the crown race off the old fork and stick it on the new one. While that can be done with jury-rigged tools, you might find it easier to have the shop do it for you. They can also cut the steerer and help in the transfer of the brakes.
You also might want to check out this recent thread for some rigid fork ideas.
- Steerer diameter - This is most likely 1-1/8" but you'll want to check to be sure.
- Steerer length - I'm going to assume you have a threadless headset and most threadless steerers come long enough but will probably need to get it cut down once you've settled on a proper handlebar/stem height. For threaded steerers, you'll need to pick a fork with a steerer that's close in length as to what you have. I guess you can always cut down a threaded steerer too.
- AtC (Axle-to-Crown) - this will need to be measured and you'll want to match the appropriate suspension correction on the rigid fork to what you currently have in order to not effect the handling on the bike.
- Fork offset - again, you'll want to match this as close to possible so as not to change your steering characteristics
Other things you'll of course want to make sure are correct include brake bosses. You probably need cantilever bosses but if your bike has calipers then you'll need a fork with the proper mounting hole and if you have disc brakes then you'll need a fork with disc tabs. Your best bet is to take this to a shop. You'll need them to help with some of the installation anyways as you'll have to pull the crown race off the old fork and stick it on the new one. While that can be done with jury-rigged tools, you might find it easier to have the shop do it for you. They can also cut the steerer and help in the transfer of the brakes.
You also might want to check out this recent thread for some rigid fork ideas.
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1999 K2 OzM 2001 Aegis Aro Svelte
"Be liberal in what you accept, and conservative in what you send." -- Jon Postel, RFC1122
1999 K2 OzM 2001 Aegis Aro Svelte
"Be liberal in what you accept, and conservative in what you send." -- Jon Postel, RFC1122
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Thank you for the details on the measurements. At least now I can pretend I know something
I was going to do this job myself. Fond memories of fixing bikes when I was younger. Unfortunately bikes seem to have gotten much more complex. I'll be heading to the LBS in the AM.
Thanks again for the help.
I was going to do this job myself. Fond memories of fixing bikes when I was younger. Unfortunately bikes seem to have gotten much more complex. I'll be heading to the LBS in the AM.
Thanks again for the help.