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  1. #1
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    Coaster Brake Wheel Driving Me Crazy!

    Hey guys.

    I have a cruiser I have converted into a motorbike. The motor is running great, but the rear wheel is causing me some problems. There was a lot of lateral play (side to side), so I tighted it up, and now there is a lot of rolling resistance. When I try to fix the rolling resistance, the lateral play comes back. I can't seem to either have one or the other. Is there some trick I am missing? I plan on taking it to a shop tomorrow and having them look at it...

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    如果你能讀了這個你講中文 genericbikedude's Avatar
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    i'd give you advice, but you use gasoline...

  3. #3
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    i'd give you advice, but you use gasoline...

    Nice. This motorbike is more of a toy than anything else. I regularly commute 20 miles roundtrip on my Trek 520, currently sitting 3 feet away from me in my office. I can't imagine tolerating the drone of a two-stoke engine for that long... I do plan on using the motorbike for getting a load of groceries with the Bob trailer, short trips after long bike commutes, etc. If I could just get the wheel figured out!

  4. #4
    Senior Curmudgeon
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    Quote Originally Posted by theden
    Is there some trick I am missing?
    There should be a threaded cone that keeps the bearings against the race (or vice-versa - I don't remember for sure). On the outside of the cone is a lock nut that keeps the cone from moving once adjusted. You're obviously moving BOTH the cone and lock nut, keeping you from getting adjusted. Use a thin "cone wrench" to keep the cone properly snug while you tighten the outer lock nut to freeze the adjustment.

  5. #5
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    Just curious (hopefully I won't be banned from bikeforums), what kind of motor are you using and how did you set it up?

    -Will

  6. #6
    Senior Member DieselDan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FarHorizon
    There should be a threaded cone that keeps the bearings against the race (or vice-versa - I don't remember for sure). On the outside of the cone is a lock nut that keeps the cone from moving once adjusted. You're obviously moving BOTH the cone and lock nut, keeping you from getting adjusted. Use a thin "cone wrench" to keep the cone properly snug while you tighten the outer lock nut to freeze the adjustment.
    FarHorizon's advice is right on. The only other thing it could be is the cone nut is worn and won't adjust properly anymore. If it's a Shimano E-type, you can get just a replacement cone nut, but the whole internals are probably shot if the cone nut is worn to that extent.
    Bikes use brakes to stop.

    If your bike has breaks, don't ride it.

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