rdtindsm

I've been using look pedals for 30 years with no particular problems clipping in.

In the last couple of years I put look Keo pedals and don't recall that I had any problems clipping in.

When I managed to loose one of a pair of shoes, I bought a new pair of shoes at Nashbar, along with a set of their cleats ab about $15. Don't think they are oem and they have a soft rubber at tip and tail of the cleat that helps a lot with traction while buying my Big Gulps. The problem is that I am having trouble finding the correct placement for my foot. It can take a minute or more to get it right and is dangerous in traffic because I can't get a fast start across traffic lanes.

I have considered just cutting off the soft rubber, but this might make the problem worse. At this point, I am considering just buying new cleats, but $30/$35 is outragous for a molded piece of rubber.

Any experience with this problem.

JReade

I had a problem clipping in to deltas with keo cleats... I'm man enough to admit I made that screw up! Can you post a pic of the cleats/pedals?

rdtindsm

I have one pair of shoes with deltas, one pair with keo and have already made sure I have the right cleats.

FWIW, IIRC, you can use the keo cleats in a delta pedal. It works, but doesn't feel secure, although I didn't have problems about inadvertent realease. Could been the other way around.

fietsbob

thought road shoes only had a toe and heel rubber patch, and where the cleat bolted on was hard material..

add some flat washers under the cleat where the 3 screws are? To stand it off further..

Eric S.

I had some Keo Classic pedals for awhile. I was pretty sure my left leg was getting bigger than my right because of pedaling with one leg getting started from intersections.

Soon after that I switched to mountain SPD pedals on all my bikes.

Wingsprint

I have never been a fan of the Keo system. with that said, it sounds like there is an issue with the non-OEM cleats.

FBinNY 

Certain Look pedal and cleat systems are a bit sensitive about latching smoothly.

The issue us curvature. In order to have a nice solid interface with no vertical give when you pull up, the latch clearance and cleat thickness are carefully matched.

Imagine the front door of your house. If the dead bolt has room in the striker plate, your door will rattle in the wind. To prevent that you might position the striker plate so there's no play, or use rubber insulation to fill the gap in the frame so there's no slack in the latch. That's fine, but then you have to slam the door and/or hold it closed tightly to engage the latch.

Same with the pedals, the latch clearance in minimized, and as a result you have to step down hard to engage.

Now the real issue. If your shoe's sole is more curved than average, or you have the cleat set back a ways where there's more curve, the cleat get's arched, and the high center prevents you from pressing down far enough to engage. The fix is to use a thin shim under one end of the cleat so it's not bent as much, and all will be good.

rdtindsm

Thought I'd add a bit of data to the community mind. I put a thin lockwasher under the front of the cleat.

Helped immensely.

The washer was the thinnest I could find and was one of the toothed lock washers which can be had with either internal or external teeth.
thanks