shopping for a new 1 inch treaded headset for '97 Trek 820
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shopping for a new 1 inch treaded headset for '97 Trek 820
Okay, I measured the ID of the crown race and it came out to 26.9mm, so I'm assuming it's a JIS 27.0mm. I also measured the steering column (from top to bottom, where the crown race sits) and that was 8.75 inch and the head tube was 7.25 inch (from top to bottom).
So, that gives me a 1.5 inch (38mm) difference. So the ideal stack height is 38mm. The stock headset has 2 spacers (@ 2 & 3mm). And I have a NOS Dia Compe cable hanger @ 3mm.
I seen a Tange Levin, 27.0mm crown race with 38mm stack. Is this the one I should be considering?
I'm new to all this threaded headset shopping. Am I missing anything?
Thanks.
So, that gives me a 1.5 inch (38mm) difference. So the ideal stack height is 38mm. The stock headset has 2 spacers (@ 2 & 3mm). And I have a NOS Dia Compe cable hanger @ 3mm.
I seen a Tange Levin, 27.0mm crown race with 38mm stack. Is this the one I should be considering?
I'm new to all this threaded headset shopping. Am I missing anything?
Thanks.
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You're missing about 3mm if my math is correct. You have 38mm difference between the steerer and the head tube. So all the parts need to fit within this 38mm. Headset, spacer(s) and hanger. Since the headset often uses a 1 or 2mm spacer already we'll 'forget' about that and include it as stack height of the headset. So the 3mm spacer and the 3mm hanger still need their space. You could likely not worry about the 3mm spacer too, unless you're anal. So now we have 38mm - 3mm hanger for a headset stack of 35mm.
Of course you might have just measured the actual headset stack and gone with that. Andy.
Of course you might have just measured the actual headset stack and gone with that. Andy.
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Just to be on the safe side, especially since your crown race seems to be JIS, I'd remove the cups and measure their diameter to see if they're 30.0 mm (JIS) or 30.2 mm (ISO). Better to measure and confirm ahead of time than to find out you've got the wrong one when trying to press in your new headset.
...and as counter-intuitive as it may seem, some bikes did come with mixtures of JIS crown race and ISO cups. It even seems to be the most commonly available sizing for some Tange headsets.
...and as counter-intuitive as it may seem, some bikes did come with mixtures of JIS crown race and ISO cups. It even seems to be the most commonly available sizing for some Tange headsets.
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If you go Tange and find you have too much stack height (say you are uncomfortable with how few threads are engaging on the locknut or you want to add a brake cable hanger) a bailout that works is to buy a lesser model Tange and use one or more parts off it. Bearing races of the lesser models will work but they generally have less stack height. I have a mix on one of my best bikes and was just thinking about how nice that headset was last ride and that I haven't touched it since before last fall's Cycle Oregon when I installed it new.
Edit to add: even the cheapest OEM Tange HS is a quality unit. Very poor dirt seal, but if you can keep the dirt out, they feel as good as the best. My $8 one in a now retired bike went 8000 miles and is still flawless. I packed it with lots and lots of marine bearing grease. A little messy but works just fine. And very low stack height. (Those seals take up space.)
Ben
Edit to add: even the cheapest OEM Tange HS is a quality unit. Very poor dirt seal, but if you can keep the dirt out, they feel as good as the best. My $8 one in a now retired bike went 8000 miles and is still flawless. I packed it with lots and lots of marine bearing grease. A little messy but works just fine. And very low stack height. (Those seals take up space.)
Ben
Last edited by 79pmooney; 05-31-15 at 04:44 PM.
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If you are tight on space you can pick up 3mm by going to a fork mounted cable hanger.
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You're missing about 3mm if my math is correct. You have 38mm difference between the steerer and the head tube. So all the parts need to fit within this 38mm. Headset, spacer(s) and hanger. Since the headset often uses a 1 or 2mm spacer already we'll 'forget' about that and include it as stack height of the headset. So the 3mm spacer and the 3mm hanger still need their space. You could likely not worry about the 3mm spacer too, unless you're anal. So now we have 38mm - 3mm hanger for a headset stack of 35mm.
Of course you might have just measured the actual headset stack and gone with that. Andy.
Of course you might have just measured the actual headset stack and gone with that. Andy.
Just to be on the safe side, especially since your crown race seems to be JIS, I'd remove the cups and measure their diameter to see if they're 30.0 mm (JIS) or 30.2 mm (ISO). Better to measure and confirm ahead of time than to find out you've got the wrong one when trying to press in your new headset.
...and as counter-intuitive as it may seem, some bikes did come with mixtures of JIS crown race and ISO cups. It even seems to be the most commonly available sizing for some Tange headsets.
...and as counter-intuitive as it may seem, some bikes did come with mixtures of JIS crown race and ISO cups. It even seems to be the most commonly available sizing for some Tange headsets.
If you go Tange and find you have too much stack height (say you are uncomfortable with how few threads are engaging on the locknut or you want to add a brake cable hanger) a bailout that works is to buy a lesser model Tange and use one or more parts off it. Bearing races of the lesser models will work but they generally have less stack height. I have a mix on one of my best bikes and was just thinking about how nice that headset was last ride and that I haven't touched it since before last fall's Cycle Oregon when I installed it new.
Edit to add: even the cheapest OEM Tange HS is a quality unit. Very poor dirt seal, but if you can keep the dirt out, they feel as good as the best. My $8 one in a now retired bike went 8000 miles and is still flawless. I packed it with lots and lots of marine bearing grease. A little messy but works just fine. And very low stack height. (Those seals take up space.)
Ben
Edit to add: even the cheapest OEM Tange HS is a quality unit. Very poor dirt seal, but if you can keep the dirt out, they feel as good as the best. My $8 one in a now retired bike went 8000 miles and is still flawless. I packed it with lots and lots of marine bearing grease. A little messy but works just fine. And very low stack height. (Those seals take up space.)
Ben
I could, but I will be good if I get the correct headset. And if I go with the VO or Nitto front rack that attaches to the fork crown and fenders, it will get too crowded there. Thanks.
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Just to be on the safe side, especially since your crown race seems to be JIS, I'd remove the cups and measure their diameter to see if they're 30.0 mm (JIS) or 30.2 mm (ISO). Better to measure and confirm ahead of time than to find out you've got the wrong one when trying to press in your new headset.
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I saw that on Sheldon's page before I ordered my first threaded headset. Then I ordered a Tange Passage headset with 30.2 mm cups and pressed it into a 30.0 mm head tube. I forced the cups in, but in hindsight, I shouldn't have. It took WAY more force than it should have, and I wouldn't be surprised if someone might damage their headset or even their frame by trying to do the same.
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I saw that on Sheldon's page before I ordered my first threaded headset. Then I ordered a Tange Passage headset with 30.2 mm cups and pressed it into a 30.0 mm head tube. I forced the cups in, but in hindsight, I shouldn't have. It took WAY more force than it should have, and I wouldn't be surprised if someone might damage their headset or even their frame by trying to do the same.
Last edited by mijome07; 06-02-15 at 06:16 PM.
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I'm no engineer, but wouldn't ~8 thousandths be significant in an interference fit?
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Also, are spacers (or washers as some say) just optional? A few sellers got back to me and said no spacers included. So without the spacers that came with the stock headset, it would be around 33mm stack height.
So I should have no problem getting a 35mm or less headset since I got the (3mm) cable hanger and spacers. I know I need enough thread on top for the lock nut to bite.
So I should have no problem getting a 35mm or less headset since I got the (3mm) cable hanger and spacers. I know I need enough thread on top for the lock nut to bite.
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Also, are spacers (or washers as some say) just optional? A few sellers got back to me and said no spacers included. So without the spacers that came with the stock headset, it would be around 33mm stack height.
So I should have no problem getting a 35mm or less headset since I got the (3mm) cable hanger and spacers. I know I need enough thread on top for the lock nut to bite.
So I should have no problem getting a 35mm or less headset since I got the (3mm) cable hanger and spacers. I know I need enough thread on top for the lock nut to bite.
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If all headsets that shipped with a JIS-sized 27 mm crown race also shipped with JIS-sized 30.0 mm cups, that would be true. But there are a lot of "JIS" headsets out there that come with a JIS-sized 27 mm crown race and 30.2 mm cups... like the inexpensive Tange Passage I ordered for my daughter's '81 Fuji. Having struggled to get those cups pressed in straight, I just figured I'd give a heads-up. If your old cups measure 30.0 mm, I'd strongly suggest finding a new headset that's explicitly labeled 30.0 mm. They're a little harder to find, but they're out there.
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If all headsets that shipped with a JIS-sized 27 mm crown race also shipped with JIS-sized 30.0 mm cups, that would be true. But there are a lot of "JIS" headsets out there that come with a JIS-sized 27 mm crown race and 30.2 mm cups... like the inexpensive Tange Passage I ordered for my daughter's '81 Fuji. Having struggled to get those cups pressed in straight, I just figured I'd give a heads-up. If your old cups measure 30.0 mm, I'd strongly suggest finding a new headset that's explicitly labeled 30.0 mm. They're a little harder to find, but they're out there.
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I use this headset..
Ritchey Logic Threaded Headset > Components > Handlebars, Headsets and Saddles > Headsets | Jenson USA
on my old '86 Ritchey. I think it's a 30mm spec. with a 36mm stack height. It's available from several sources.
Ritchey Logic Threaded Headset > Components > Handlebars, Headsets and Saddles > Headsets | Jenson USA
on my old '86 Ritchey. I think it's a 30mm spec. with a 36mm stack height. It's available from several sources.
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Amazon.com : Tektro Front Cable Hanger Black Canti Fork Mount : Bike Shift Cables And Housing : Sports & Outdoors
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A lot of sellers' web pages don't specifically list the cup diameter on those inexpensive Tange headsets, simply listing them as "EC30" (or whatever the lettered abbreviation is). When I ordered one of those the first time, I got a 30.2 mm headset. For the second headset I needed, I knew better and looked specifically for 30.0.
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Yep, and I found a 30.0 mm Passage for use on my second JIS headset replacement (an '86 Trek 300 Elance, made by Bridgestone). That headset was MUCH easier to install!
A lot of sellers' web pages don't specifically list the cup diameter on those inexpensive Tange headsets, simply listing them as "EC30" (or whatever the lettered abbreviation is). When I ordered one of those the first time, I got a 30.2 mm headset. For the second headset I needed, I knew better and looked specifically for 30.0.
A lot of sellers' web pages don't specifically list the cup diameter on those inexpensive Tange headsets, simply listing them as "EC30" (or whatever the lettered abbreviation is). When I ordered one of those the first time, I got a 30.2 mm headset. For the second headset I needed, I knew better and looked specifically for 30.0.
Also, I figured since the cable hanger is 3mm and if I wanna go with a decaleur (VO 3mm) later on, I may go with a 30.3mm stack height. I still got the 2 stock spacers to work with.