Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

'80's mtb missing it's canti brakes, need advice on what to replace them with.

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

'80's mtb missing it's canti brakes, need advice on what to replace them with.

Old 06-07-15, 05:48 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
exmechanic89's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Richmond VA area
Posts: 2,713

Bikes: '00 Koga Miyata Full Pro Oval Road bike.

Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 475 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 6 Posts
'80's mtb missing it's canti brakes, need advice on what to replace them with.

Hey everyone, I just picked up an '86 Nishiki Colorado () today for $20. It's in nice shape but came to me missing it's brakes and levers - and wheels and front derailleur. My question though is about the brakes: can I use pretty much any cantis of the era? I'm planning on buying them used on CL or eBay, and can I use any brake handles that arent brifters? I'm not trying to match exactly what the bike came with when it was new, just get something decent that does the job. Thanks a lot.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg
photo (28).jpg (109.3 KB, 88 views)
exmechanic89 is offline  
Old 06-07-15, 05:52 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,505

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 139 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5681 Post(s)
Liked 2,386 Times in 1,320 Posts
Yes, any canti of the era or just about anytime before or after. Likewise with the levers, any standard canti lever. The only concern is that you want to make sure they're not made for V-brakes.

Then again, you can also use V-brakes, and any lever made for them.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 06-07-15, 06:08 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
exmechanic89's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Richmond VA area
Posts: 2,713

Bikes: '00 Koga Miyata Full Pro Oval Road bike.

Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 475 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 6 Posts
Thanks very much for that quick and informative reply, I'll start trolling eBay for some brakes.

Btw did this bike likely come with a 5 spd freewheel? It has oldschool style thumbshifters but as I said the wheels were missing. I'm thinking being an '86 it's either gonna have a 5 or 6 spd freewheel. I realize I can take the wheels off of it that I threw on it for now, and count the clicks on the shifter, but thought i'd ask first.
exmechanic89 is offline  
Old 06-07-15, 06:27 PM
  #4  
cs1
Senior Member
 
cs1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Clev Oh
Posts: 7,091

Bikes: Specialized, Schwinn

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 225 Post(s)
Liked 24 Times in 22 Posts
Nice bike, looks like it has Suntour shifters. Probably came with dia-compe brakes. Good luck on the hunt.
cs1 is offline  
Old 06-07-15, 06:46 PM
  #5  
Insane Bicycle Mechanic
 
Jeff Wills's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: other Vancouver
Posts: 9,808
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 785 Post(s)
Liked 687 Times in 366 Posts
Originally Posted by exmechanic89
Thanks very much for that quick and informative reply, I'll start trolling eBay for some brakes.

Btw did this bike likely come with a 5 spd freewheel? It has oldschool style thumbshifters but as I said the wheels were missing. I'm thinking being an '86 it's either gonna have a 5 or 6 spd freewheel. I realize I can take the wheels off of it that I threw on it for now, and count the clicks on the shifter, but thought i'd ask first.
If the shifters are friction-only it it could have come with a 5-speed freewheel. If they're index then it would be 6-speed. If you ask on the Classic & Vintage forum I bet someone will figure out the year from the paint job.
__________________
Jeff Wills

Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
Jeff Wills is offline  
Old 06-07-15, 07:04 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
exmechanic89's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Richmond VA area
Posts: 2,713

Bikes: '00 Koga Miyata Full Pro Oval Road bike.

Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 475 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 6 Posts
Thanks everyone. Yeah I'm digging it's vintage vibe. I really like the longer wheelbase and mellower geometry of the frame, it's not so short. Should be a comfy bike for longer rides.

The shifter indexes so I guess it must've come with a 6 spd. Would that likely be a cassette or a spin on freewheel? And could I take a 7 spd rear wheel, and remove the freewheel and replace it with a 6spd freewheel - or would there be problems with axle length? I put a wheel on it temporarily that has a 7 spd freewheel on it and it's a super tight fit in the dropouts, but it does shift ok. Thanks.
exmechanic89 is offline  
Old 06-07-15, 09:26 PM
  #7  
Insane Bicycle Mechanic
 
Jeff Wills's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: other Vancouver
Posts: 9,808
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 785 Post(s)
Liked 687 Times in 366 Posts
Originally Posted by exmechanic89
Thanks everyone. Yeah I'm digging it's vintage vibe. I really like the longer wheelbase and mellower geometry of the frame, it's not so short. Should be a comfy bike for longer rides.

The shifter indexes so I guess it must've come with a 6 spd. Would that likely be a cassette or a spin on freewheel? And could I take a 7 spd rear wheel, and remove the freewheel and replace it with a 6spd freewheel - or would there be problems with axle length? I put a wheel on it temporarily that has a 7 spd freewheel on it and it's a super tight fit in the dropouts, but it does shift ok. Thanks.
In those years, 6-speeds were pretty common, 7-speed was upper end stuff. Also, 130mm width hubs were common for 6-speed bikes, so I'm going to guess that's what came on your bike.

The bike could have come with either cassette or freewheel. Those were transitional times when major new developments appeared every year. It'll depend on how many clicks are in the shifters.
__________________
Jeff Wills

Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
Jeff Wills is offline  
Old 06-07-15, 09:32 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 17,960

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4153 Post(s)
Liked 3,751 Times in 2,245 Posts
I will disagree with the suggestion that any canti will work. The pivot boss spacing apart and the boss to rim difference from the axle can be quite different even from the front to the back on the same bike. So how the pad contacts the rim can be different. Some cantis want more boss width then others and some cantis don't have as much adjustability of the pad location. I have found 1980s bikes with as much as 10mm of boss width difference between the front and rear and that the two ends needed different cantis to best fit all the conditions that make a canti work well.

I strongly suggest that you confirm the fit and rough set up before buying. If the boss width is less then 75+mm apart be careful of modern cantis ability to get the pad position best. Of course this is dependent on rim width so there's one more reason that a simple measurement won't really tell the full story. Cantis which use bolt on pads, like most "V" brakes do currently, won't have as fine an in/out adjustment as a smooth shaft pad will. Older cantis sometimes don't have any vertical pad adjustment other then angling the pad on the arm's eyebolt. Then there's the straddle cable and canti relationship for max power and the distance from the cable hanger to the arms to allow for cable pull and not bottom out on the hanger (especially on small bike's rear end).

If you must buy without trying first do your homework well. Find out the OEM cantis and rims then compare these to what you're thinking of using. I can count about 6 factors that go into whether a canti will work well or not. Fudging one a small amount isn't usually a problem but if a few are off enough then you'll just learn your purchase wasn't the best choice. This is but one reason that many claim that cantis are poor brakes, they don't have a good set up and their arrangement won't let them get the best performance.

As for the levers the canti choice will come into play too. Levers of that era tend to be a short cable pull design. But a bad canti/pad/rim set up can challenge some levers ability to pull enough cable to have much power. Again having room for a straddle cable length long enough to work best with the shortest pull levers can be hard with a small bike on the rear. Andy.
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Old 06-08-15, 06:24 AM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
Kopsis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: St. Pete, Florida
Posts: 1,258
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 83 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Pay attention to where the spring anchor holes are in relation to the canti studs. Most modern bikes have then on the inside (towards the wheel) but I've seen at least one mid-80s MTB with them on the outside. Some older cantis can be easily made to work with either arrangement, but many newer designs can't.
Kopsis is offline  
Old 06-08-15, 07:00 AM
  #10  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656

Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!

Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2025 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,095 Times in 741 Posts
If you measure the rear dropout spacing you can get a pretty good idea of the number of speeds the bike was originally fitted with. If it's 120 mm it was almost certainly 5-speed and almost certainly a freewheel. If it's 126 mm it is 6 or 7-speed and could have been a freewheel or possibly a freehub/cassette. If your 7-speed wheel is a very tight fit it may be the frame is 120 mm or the wheel itself is 130 mm and that's why it is tight.
HillRider is offline  
Old 06-08-15, 07:30 AM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
Retro Grouch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225

Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 642 Times in 363 Posts
Lots of bikes of that era came with Shimano canty brakes that had a plastic return spring cup. Those commonly cracked and were ultimately recalled by Shimano. If you're buying used, that would be something I'd check for.

Even though I claim retro grouch status, I've never been one to keep things original just for the sake of originality. If it was my bike, and I planned to actually use it, I'd stick on some lower end Shimano v-brakes. If you choose to do that, the thing to check for is a cable stop at the rear of the top tube. If yours is lacking that (my bet) the easiest solution is to run a continuous cable housing from the lever to the brake caliper.
__________________
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
Retro Grouch is offline  
Old 06-08-15, 09:20 AM
  #12  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
exmechanic89's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Richmond VA area
Posts: 2,713

Bikes: '00 Koga Miyata Full Pro Oval Road bike.

Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 475 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 6 Posts


Thanks everyone for replying, and Andrew I appreciate your long and detailed reply. If your typing skills are anything like mine I know that was no easy task.

I've ultimately decided since I have to buy the brakes sight unseen, I'd better buy a set from around the same years as my bike, and hopefully I get it right. The pic I posted shows how the rear cable stop is set up, if that helps anyone's opinion on what I should get. Oh and the front cable is routed through the quill stem itself.

Retro.. I agree with your comment about using what works rather than sticking slavishy to period correctness. I want the bike to look mostly original but it doesnt have to have the ​exact brakes it came with from the factory, something similar that works well is fine with me.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
photo (29).jpg (103.8 KB, 50 views)

Last edited by exmechanic89; 06-08-15 at 09:25 AM.
exmechanic89 is offline  
Old 06-08-15, 11:09 AM
  #13  
Constant tinkerer
 
FastJake's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7,954
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 184 Post(s)
Liked 92 Times in 75 Posts
Originally Posted by exmechanic89
I've ultimately decided since I have to buy the brakes sight unseen, I'd better buy a set from around the same years as my bike, and hopefully I get it right. The pic I posted shows how the rear cable stop is set up, if that helps anyone's opinion on what I should get. Oh and the front cable is routed through the quill stem itself.
With cable stops like those I'm pretty sure you'll have plenty of room to run whatever brakes you want. I've had more problems running out of room on newer bikes, especially with fork mounted cable stops.

I'm going to disagree with Andrew a little here. For cantis that use the smooth-style post I've found those to be tremendously adjustable. The pads can be moved so far in or out I can't imagine a situation where you'd run out of post. I can see the threaded-style post brakes being much less adjustable.

Originally Posted by HillRider
If you measure the rear dropout spacing you can get a pretty good idea of the number of speeds the bike was originally fitted with. If it's 120 mm it was almost certainly 5-speed and almost certainly a freewheel. If it's 126 mm it is 6 or 7-speed and could have been a freewheel or possibly a freehub/cassette. If your 7-speed wheel is a very tight fit it may be the frame is 120 mm or the wheel itself is 130 mm and that's why it is tight.
Pretty sure this bike is well past the 120mm rear end. Probably 126mm, possibly 130mm. Almost certainly not 135mm.

If it were my bike I'd shove a 130mm 7-speed Shimano cassette rear wheel in there and call it a day.
FastJake is offline  
Old 06-08-15, 03:56 PM
  #14  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
exmechanic89's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Richmond VA area
Posts: 2,713

Bikes: '00 Koga Miyata Full Pro Oval Road bike.

Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 475 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 6 Posts
Thanks for the comments. I threw another set of wheels on it I had, again with a 7 spd freewheel and this time the rear one slid in without being overly tight. Seems to shift well too, though I've only taken the bike for short spins around our parking lot due to the lack of brakes, lol. I'm really looking forward to getting this bike up and running & doing a 50 miler on it, though.

Btw I think I mentioned it's also missing it's front derailleur, I thought I might buy a used Deore front from around that era, what do you guys think? I'm open to suggestions.

Oh and what do you guys think of these 2 brake sets as possibilities?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/171817742839...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

https://www.ebay.com/itm/291486261259...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Thanks!

Last edited by exmechanic89; 06-08-15 at 04:01 PM.
exmechanic89 is offline  
Old 06-08-15, 10:18 PM
  #15  
Constant tinkerer
 
FastJake's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7,954
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 184 Post(s)
Liked 92 Times in 75 Posts
Originally Posted by exmechanic89
Thanks for the comments. I threw another set of wheels on it I had, again with a 7 spd freewheel and this time the rear one slid in without being overly tight. Seems to shift well too, though I've only taken the bike for short spins around our parking lot due to the lack of brakes, lol. I'm really looking forward to getting this bike up and running & doing a 50 miler on it, though.

Btw I think I mentioned it's also missing it's front derailleur, I thought I might buy a used Deore front from around that era, what do you guys think? I'm open to suggestions.

Oh and what do you guys think of these 2 brake sets as possibilities?

Tektro Oryx Cantilever Brake Sliver 2 Sets | eBay

Vintage Dia Compe 980 Cantilever Brake Set | eBay Thanks!
Old Deore FD is a good choice.

Honestly, I'd just get a new set of cheap Tektro V-brakes. Unless you already have canti levers, then getting a set of cantis might make more sense.

The Tektro cantis look fine but you MIGHT run into adjustment issues with the threaded pads. The Dia-Compes are nice brakes, I have them on my touring bike. But they're missing the link wires and are too expensive in my opinion.
FastJake is offline  
Old 06-09-15, 06:37 AM
  #16  
Senior Member
 
Kopsis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: St. Pete, Florida
Posts: 1,258
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 83 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Shimano Altus CT91s will give you a really wide adjustment range and are probably pretty close (appearance wise) to what was original equipment on your bike. About $15 a pair and they include link wires and an ok set of pads.
Kopsis is offline  
Old 06-09-15, 07:19 AM
  #17  
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 17,960

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4153 Post(s)
Liked 3,751 Times in 2,245 Posts
Originally Posted by FastJake
With cable stops like those I'm pretty sure you'll have plenty of room to run whatever brakes you want. I've had more problems running out of room on newer bikes, especially with fork mounted cable stops.

I'm going to disagree with Andrew a little here. For cantis that use the smooth-style post I've found those to be tremendously adjustable. The pads can be moved so far in or out I can't imagine a situation where you'd run out of post. I can see the threaded-style post brakes being much less adjustable.



Pretty sure this bike is well past the 120mm rear end. Probably 126mm, possibly 130mm. Almost certainly not 135mm.

If it were my bike I'd shove a 130mm 7-speed Shimano cassette rear wheel in there and call it a day.
This is exactly what I was trying to say. Smooth post pads have a greater ability to position the pads' width apart then the threaded and nutted posts do. Sorry if I gave the opposite impression. Andy.
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Old 06-11-15, 08:10 AM
  #18  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
exmechanic89's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Richmond VA area
Posts: 2,713

Bikes: '00 Koga Miyata Full Pro Oval Road bike.

Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 475 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 6 Posts
Just updating my thread for those of you on the edge of your seats wondering how the build is going.

Ok so I ordered a near pristine set of similar era brake levers off of eBay yesterday, and also a cable/cable housing set. I think I'm gonna bid on those Tektro cantis too. Then I should be all set. I'll throw it all together and hopefully be riding that bike within a week. Still have to pick up a front deraill but I can do that later. I believe the bike is gonna be my #1 from here on out, I just love the old-school long geometry and funky early mtb design.

I'll update again with some pics after I get it all together. Once I again I appreciate everyone who's posted in my thread, it has helped me quite a bit in making decisions on what to buy, what will work, etc. Thanks!
exmechanic89 is offline  
Old 06-12-15, 06:41 AM
  #19  
Constant tinkerer
 
FastJake's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7,954
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 184 Post(s)
Liked 92 Times in 75 Posts
Originally Posted by FastJake
If it were my bike I'd shove a 130mm 7-speed Shimano cassette rear wheel in there and call it a day.
Originally Posted by William Pak
If it were my bike I'd shove a 130mm 7-speed Shimano cassette rear wheel in there and call it a day.
Anyone else hear an echo?
FastJake is offline  
Old 06-12-15, 08:38 AM
  #20  
Senior Member
 
corwin1968's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,411
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 55 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 32 Times in 18 Posts
From the photo, I can't tell if your bike has the classic "Repack/Excelsior" geometry or the more modern geometry that MTB's were moving to by the mid-80's. It looks like there is a ton of rake to that fork so that makes me think it might be the older geometry. Those bikes are in a class all their own (that can be a positive or a negative, depending on your preferences) and feel different than any other bike I've ridden. I've got MTB's from 1983, 1989, 1992 and 1995 and the '83 model is the most fun to ride. It's not the most sporty, efficient or best handling but it's the one that really makes me feel like I'm a little kid again. In fact, that frameset is in the back of my car right now and I'm getting ready to haul it down to a framebuilder to gets an alignment issue fixed so I can start riding it again. I'll probably put Jan Heine's Compass Rat Trap Pass 26" x 54mm tires on it when they become available later this Summer or early in the Fall.


Here it is before I messed up the rear-end:



Attached Images
File Type: jpg
Takara Highlander 0.jpg (67.1 KB, 42 views)
File Type: jpg
IMG_1708.jpg (98.4 KB, 36 views)

Last edited by corwin1968; 06-12-15 at 08:42 AM.
corwin1968 is offline  
Old 06-12-15, 08:48 AM
  #21  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
exmechanic89's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Richmond VA area
Posts: 2,713

Bikes: '00 Koga Miyata Full Pro Oval Road bike.

Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 475 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 6 Posts
Yeah I believe it is the early geometry, as not only does the fork have a lot of rake, but there's a huge space between the rear tire and the seat tube. It's very noticeable when the bike is sitting next to my 2 other much newer 2 mtbs. It's the longest frame I've personally ever owned in fact.

I agree about the early mtbs being in a class of their own - good or bad. Personally I like the longer frame as I think it will be better on trails and roads in it's ability to absorb more bumps.
exmechanic89 is offline  
Old 06-12-15, 10:56 AM
  #22  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
exmechanic89's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Richmond VA area
Posts: 2,713

Bikes: '00 Koga Miyata Full Pro Oval Road bike.

Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 475 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 6 Posts
Originally Posted by corwin1968
From the photo, I can't tell if your bike has the classic "Repack/Excelsior" geometry or the more modern geometry that MTB's were moving to by the mid-80's. It looks like there is a ton of rake to that fork so that makes me think it might be the older geometry. Those bikes are in a class all their own (that can be a positive or a negative, depending on your preferences) and feel different than any other bike I've ridden. I've got MTB's from 1983, 1989, 1992 and 1995 and the '83 model is the most fun to ride. It's not the most sporty, efficient or best handling but it's the one that really makes me feel like I'm a little kid again. In fact, that frameset is in the back of my car right now and I'm getting ready to haul it down to a framebuilder to gets an alignment issue fixed so I can start riding it again. I'll probably put Jan Heine's Compass Rat Trap Pass 26" x 54mm tires on it when they become available later this Summer or early in the Fall.


Here it is before I messed up the rear-end:



Yeah that looks a lot like mine, dig that steep head tube angle! Mine actually has a longer rear triangle, believe it or not. Hope you gets yours up and running again, it's a cool bike for sure. I'm probably gonna put some thin city tires on mine as i do most of my riding on roads, and the trails I use are pretty light.
exmechanic89 is offline  
Old 06-12-15, 11:32 AM
  #23  
Senior Member
 
corwin1968's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,411
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 55 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 32 Times in 18 Posts
Originally Posted by exmechanic89
Yeah I believe it is the early geometry, as not only does the fork have a lot of rake, but there's a huge space between the rear tire and the seat tube. It's very noticeable when the bike is sitting next to my 2 other much newer 2 mtbs. It's the longest frame I've personally ever owned in fact.

I agree about the early mtbs being in a class of their own - good or bad. Personally I like the longer frame as I think it will be better on trails and roads in it's ability to absorb more bumps.
Yeah, for anything other than tight, twisty single-track, that long base makes for a Cadillac ride! The other thing I like is that the huge amount of trail on the front-end makes steering with the body, instead of the handlebars, more effective and more fun!

Are you familiar with Rivendell Bicycle Works? It sounds like their current philosophy (long bikes and longer chainstays) would be right up your alley. Their newest bike has chainstays that are over 50cm long!
corwin1968 is offline  
Old 06-12-15, 01:56 PM
  #24  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,739
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by exmechanic89
Thanks for the comments. I threw another set of wheels on it I had, again with a 7 spd freewheel and this time the rear one slid in without being overly tight. Seems to shift well too, though I've only taken the bike for short spins around our parking lot due to the lack of brakes, lol. I'm really looking forward to getting this bike up and running & doing a 50 miler on it, though.

Btw I think I mentioned it's also missing it's front derailleur, I thought I might buy a used Deore front from around that era, what do you guys think? I'm open to suggestions.

Oh and what do you guys think of these 2 brake sets as possibilities?

Tektro Oryx Cantilever Brake Sliver 2 Sets | eBay

Vintage Dia Compe 980 Cantilever Brake Set | eBay Thanks!
OP; Brakes were the weak point on bikes of the era along with the axles on freewheels...Of those you found on ebay;

- The Tektro's are technically a better design and stronger, but they are newer. As such they won't look right on an 80's era bike and as Andrew discussed, may not fit.

- The Dia-comp's shown are very correct for that era and the calipers are more than adequate. They are the right answer if you are restoring for correctness vice just building a rider. That set on ebay has sold and I don't know if they are still readily available. If you can't find a set, PM me as I do have a full set in the OEM box (bought in ~1980) just like those taking up space on the shelf. We can work it out so you have them in your mailbox by Wednesday for same delivered price eBay was showing you.

- Levers of the era aren't much to marvel at as they tended to be flexy, don't last very long, and too short in my opinion. I'd recommend laying Andrew's advice on top of what is available in fairly modern 'brifter levers. But you will likely have to do a bit of shopping/comparing to get something that looks close enough and also has the right amount of pull. Getting past weak brakes will go a long way to making you bike a great ride.

Hope that helps
/K
ksisler is offline  
Old 06-12-15, 07:47 PM
  #25  
Senior Member
 
corwin1968's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,411
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 55 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 32 Times in 18 Posts
Originally Posted by exmechanic89
Yeah that looks a lot like mine, dig that steep head tube angle! Mine actually has a longer rear triangle, believe it or not. Hope you gets yours up and running again, it's a cool bike for sure. I'm probably gonna put some thin city tires on mine as i do most of my riding on roads, and the trails I use are pretty light.
I got a call from the LBS and my chainstays are trashed so this frameset is done.
corwin1968 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.