Repetitve clunking noise when applying front brake
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Repetitve clunking noise when applying front brake
Hi all! I've recently purchased a used mountain bike which, according to my LBS, is in great condition. Before I brought it in for an inspection and tune-up I had noticed that from time to time I would get a clunking noise when applying the front brake (I have rim brakes). I assumed that whatever the issue was that it would be discovered and addressed with the tune-up. The tune-up was a few weeks ago, and tonight the clunking noise has returned. It seems it clunks with every rotation of the front wheel when I apply the front brake. I have tried to google the issue yet am having a hard time identifying what the problem might be. Any insights/advice? Thanks!
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uneven rim joint? loose brake arm?
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Hold the brake on lightly while turning the wheel by hand, stop when you feel the imperfection, inspect the brake tracks at that point.
Most likely it's a gouge in the rim; sand, file or just cut the raised metal off with a sharp knife, and that should mostly fix it. Check the corresponding pad for embedded metal while you're at it.
Most likely it's a gouge in the rim; sand, file or just cut the raised metal off with a sharp knife, and that should mostly fix it. Check the corresponding pad for embedded metal while you're at it.
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I just went to inspect the rim and brakes. I ran my finger along both sides of the rim and they are perfect from what I can tell. When I manually spin the wheel and brake nothing unusual happens. Brakes are properly aligned. Nothing loose. I'm gonna go back down (to the garage of my high rise building, ugh), and check to see if there's anything embedded in the pads. The clunking feels more substantial than to just be coming from the pads however. I should have mentioned I have front suspension, though I'm not sure if that's where the problem is. When I test to see if there is any play in the headset by applying the brake and rocking the bike back n forth, I get suspension so it's hard for me to tell if anything else is moving.
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Finding the sticky spot on the rim is only half the solution since rims don't clunk. Somewhere, there's something slightly loose that shifts when the brake pulses. It could be fork play (struts), the headset, a brake arm, or just about anything in the front end. Repeat the loose headset test but push harder and faster, and listen feel for a click of some kind. I prefer doing the test with the wheel locked and draging the front wheel back a bit then suddenly shoving forward.
Also, manually check both brake arms for play at the pivots.
BTW- if you simply want to end the clunking without caring about what may be a bit loose, try simply removing and reversing the front wheel. This cures brake pulsing a fair percentage of the time.
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Last edited by FBinNY; 06-08-15 at 07:12 AM.
#6
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If accurate, this just about 100% confirms that a key element is the rim. Since it resolved and returned, we can rule out something like a rim dent or blip and the seam, since these tend to be permanent. So look, feel, or test for a variation in friction, maybe from a bit of brake shoe transfer. One way to test is to spin the wheel and apply the brake enough to stop the wheel in 2-3 revolutions. You might feel the pulse as the sticky area passes, or can do the test a number of times and see if the wheel tends to stop in the same place.
Finding the sticky spot on the rim is only half the solution since rims don't clunk. Somewhere, there's something slightly loose that shifts when the brake pulses. It could be fork play (struts), the headset, a brake arm, or just about anything in the front end. Repeat the loose headset test but push harder and faster, and listen feel for a click of some kind. I prefer doing the test with the wheel locked and draging the front wheel back a bit then suddenly shoving forward.
Also, manually check both brake arms for play at the pivots.
BTW- if you simply want to end the clunking without caring about what may be a bit loose, try simply removing and reversing the front wheel. This cures brake pulsing a fair percentage of the time.
Finding the sticky spot on the rim is only half the solution since rims don't clunk. Somewhere, there's something slightly loose that shifts when the brake pulses. It could be fork play (struts), the headset, a brake arm, or just about anything in the front end. Repeat the loose headset test but push harder and faster, and listen feel for a click of some kind. I prefer doing the test with the wheel locked and draging the front wheel back a bit then suddenly shoving forward.
Also, manually check both brake arms for play at the pivots.
BTW- if you simply want to end the clunking without caring about what may be a bit loose, try simply removing and reversing the front wheel. This cures brake pulsing a fair percentage of the time.
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The bike doesn't need anything, certainly not a wheel replacement. This falls within the normal bounds of operation, and can either be managed or lived with. Finding what's actually moving when the brake grabs is up to you, but other than a headset, most of this kind of play is unresolvable.
Odds are the bike shop found and dealt with the issue by cleaning the rim with a bit of solvent, which is why it took a while to come back. If you want, use a solvent like Goo-Gone, Acetone (not nail polish remover) or something else that dries dry, to clean that bit of rubber transfer from the rim and you should be OK for a while.
BTW- keep the solvent away from the tire, or rinse immediately so it can't attack the rubber. In lieu of solvent, you can try a Scotchbrite pad.
Odds are the bike shop found and dealt with the issue by cleaning the rim with a bit of solvent, which is why it took a while to come back. If you want, use a solvent like Goo-Gone, Acetone (not nail polish remover) or something else that dries dry, to clean that bit of rubber transfer from the rim and you should be OK for a while.
BTW- keep the solvent away from the tire, or rinse immediately so it can't attack the rubber. In lieu of solvent, you can try a Scotchbrite pad.
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Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#8
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The bike doesn't need anything, certainly not a wheel replacement. This falls within the normal bounds of operation, and can either be managed or lived with. Finding what's actually moving when the brake grabs is up to you, but other than a headset, most of this kind of play is unresolvable.
Odds are the bike shop found and dealt with the issue by cleaning the rim with a bit of solvent, which is why it took a while to come back. If you want, use a solvent like Goo-Gone, Acetone (not nail polish remover) or something else that dries dry, to clean that bit of rubber transfer from the rim and you should be OK for a while.
BTW- keep the solvent away from the tire, or rinse immediately so it can't attack the rubber. In lieu of solvent, you can try a Scotchbrite pad.
Odds are the bike shop found and dealt with the issue by cleaning the rim with a bit of solvent, which is why it took a while to come back. If you want, use a solvent like Goo-Gone, Acetone (not nail polish remover) or something else that dries dry, to clean that bit of rubber transfer from the rim and you should be OK for a while.
BTW- keep the solvent away from the tire, or rinse immediately so it can't attack the rubber. In lieu of solvent, you can try a Scotchbrite pad.
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Goo-gone is a household product you see all over and acetone comes from the hardware store.
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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Thanks. Just got back from the LBS. I showed the guy the pic and he said it's "brake contamination" and that I can use WD-40, rubbing alcohol and sand paper on the joint if needed. Thanks again for all the help!
#11
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I've used a file to remove the high side of a misaligned joint. The bike shop should be able to fix the rim.
Brad
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So I cleaned the rim. No go. Turned the wheel around, no go. Annoying.
Brad I used the WD-40 sparingly and made sure to clean it all off the rim.
Brad I used the WD-40 sparingly and made sure to clean it all off the rim.
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WD40 is fine as long as it is cleaned off w/ alcohol or something similar...
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The solvent that best dissolves the rubber material is toluene, but you won't find that retail. The next best is probably d-limonene, which is the turpentine-like oil found in citrus fruit rinds. (you can squeeze enough on your own if you're eating an orange). That's the key ingredient of things like GooGone, and other citrus cleaners. After that it would be turpentine or acetone. Alcohol, even fuel grade alcohol isn't that effective.
If there's a lawnmower in your garage, some gasoline on a rag will also work, but that's ONLY if working outdoors.
You shouldn't need to file anything, you're just washing off some rubber. Over time, the joint will wear smoother on it's own.
One other way to clean rims that works very well is to trap a piece of ScotchBrite under each brake shoe, apply the brake gently to hold it there and ride against it. This is a very effective way to clean rims if the entire surface needs it but is overkill for a single spot. Also, for any who try this, take it easy and stop to check the rim temp often because they get hot fast.
If there's a lawnmower in your garage, some gasoline on a rag will also work, but that's ONLY if working outdoors.
You shouldn't need to file anything, you're just washing off some rubber. Over time, the joint will wear smoother on it's own.
One other way to clean rims that works very well is to trap a piece of ScotchBrite under each brake shoe, apply the brake gently to hold it there and ride against it. This is a very effective way to clean rims if the entire surface needs it but is overkill for a single spot. Also, for any who try this, take it easy and stop to check the rim temp often because they get hot fast.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 06-08-15 at 04:38 PM.
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Just use a soapy sponge with a scrubber backing. Wet the rims and working slowly from one side to the other, scrub the residue off. As you do this, think how glad you are that you aren't breathing toxic fumes while you work on your wonderful bike.
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Thanks guys but I've got the cleaning out of the way with WD-40 and alcohol (even sanded lightly) and the issue hasn't resolved. I also tightened the headset by half a turn and it seems like it might be a bit better but the clunking, thumping, jerking, or whatever it is, is still happening. I wish I could describe it better, or somehow watch more closely what's happening but riding and not looking where I'm going seems a little unsafe to me.
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Thanks guys but I've got the cleaning out of the way with WD-40 and alcohol (even sanded lightly) and the issue hasn't resolved. I also tightened the headset by half a turn and it seems like it might be a bit better but the clunking, thumping, jerking, or whatever it is, is still happening. I wish I could describe it better, or somehow watch more closely what's happening but riding and not looking where I'm going seems a little unsafe to me.
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If you lock the front brake and try to wiggle the bike back and forth can you feel the clunking?
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I feel some movement but I'm pretty sure it's just the front suspension. Since cleaning and sanding the rims and adjusting the headset the clunking is only slightly noticeable. Problem is I'm not sure which did the trick.
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"Clunking" usually makes me think of issues in the bearings. But if it's just a pulsing during braking then I would agree that the rim is the likely culprit.
#22
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Hi all! I've recently purchased a used mountain bike which, according to my LBS, is in great condition. Before I brought it in for an inspection and tune-up I had noticed that from time to time I would get a clunking noise when applying the front brake (I have rim brakes). I assumed that whatever the issue was that it would be discovered and addressed with the tune-up. The tune-up was a few weeks ago, and tonight the clunking noise has returned. It seems it clunks with every rotation of the front wheel when I apply the front brake. I have tried to google the issue yet am having a hard time identifying what the problem might be. Any insights/advice? Thanks!
Nobody mentioned that some rims can have a defect where there is a very subtle buldge in the rim joint area. This can cause all the symptoms you noted. Removing the buldge with a hammer and block of iron can sometimes be a success, but is unlikely. If this is the case, the best solution is a new front wheel.
Also, you mentioned tightening your headset a half turn...This may or may not have been a good idea. A headset needs to be adjusted precisely otherwise abnormal bearing wear and/ or strange steering sensations, etc. can occur. If you're not totally positive how to do it, you might research it at Sheldon Brown.com or have your LBS make sure it's properly adjusted.