Components without a frame!
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Components without a frame!
I was hit by a car a couple months ago and the frame was trashed. I got a whole new bike under a warranty replacement AND the components from the junked frame (it was the seatstay that was bent, all the components were fine). So basically I'm left with: 2014 Sora Brifters, FSA triple crankset, front and rear Sora Derailleurs, pedals, drop bars, stem, brakes, wheels and a bottom bracket that are begging to be put on a new frame.
By my estimation, I only need new cables/housing, a headset, a frame and a fork and I can buildup a new bike! What I'd like, is a drop bar bike that could take wide tires, fenders and a rear rack for commuting and short rides on gravel.
My question comes down to three options:
1) I have a rain bike. Its a trek FX hybrid, but i've really grown to hate the flat bars and don't find it comfortable for my commutes. It just takes more effort and tires me out quicker than riding my road bike (a Jamis Quest). I could take all the components (mostly, I think I'd need new brakes) and give my trek a new lease on life as a drop-bar commuter/tourer. Wondering if the drop bars would help my comfort and level of exertion though. Not convinced that it would.
2) I could save up my bones to get a surly cross check frameset. I've test ridden the CC and its a nice ride. I know my size. Components would work well with it. Reviews rave about them. The most expensive option as a new CC frameset runs 480. With a headset, cables, new brakes and a donation to the local bike coop in exchange for help putting it all together I'm looking at $600.
3) I can buy a frame, fork and headset from nashbar (or keep an eye on craigslist for some other type of steel-framed bike to repurpose with my modern components). I'm intrigued by their $99 crmo cross frame as I've liked EVERY steel bike that i've ever ridden. I've priced up a frame, fork, brakes, cables, spacers and could buy this stuff for about $200 during one of their 20% coupon deals. With the help of a local bike coop, I could get everything up and running.
Any thoughts/sage advice/options?
Cheers!
By my estimation, I only need new cables/housing, a headset, a frame and a fork and I can buildup a new bike! What I'd like, is a drop bar bike that could take wide tires, fenders and a rear rack for commuting and short rides on gravel.
My question comes down to three options:
1) I have a rain bike. Its a trek FX hybrid, but i've really grown to hate the flat bars and don't find it comfortable for my commutes. It just takes more effort and tires me out quicker than riding my road bike (a Jamis Quest). I could take all the components (mostly, I think I'd need new brakes) and give my trek a new lease on life as a drop-bar commuter/tourer. Wondering if the drop bars would help my comfort and level of exertion though. Not convinced that it would.
2) I could save up my bones to get a surly cross check frameset. I've test ridden the CC and its a nice ride. I know my size. Components would work well with it. Reviews rave about them. The most expensive option as a new CC frameset runs 480. With a headset, cables, new brakes and a donation to the local bike coop in exchange for help putting it all together I'm looking at $600.
3) I can buy a frame, fork and headset from nashbar (or keep an eye on craigslist for some other type of steel-framed bike to repurpose with my modern components). I'm intrigued by their $99 crmo cross frame as I've liked EVERY steel bike that i've ever ridden. I've priced up a frame, fork, brakes, cables, spacers and could buy this stuff for about $200 during one of their 20% coupon deals. With the help of a local bike coop, I could get everything up and running.
Any thoughts/sage advice/options?
Cheers!
Last edited by Ebubar; 06-09-15 at 06:57 PM. Reason: forgot that i also have wheels
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2025 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,095 Times
in
741 Posts
The Nashbar frame/fork should be adequate and will certainly keep the cost down. Repurposing the Trek with dropbars would probably leave you with an unsatisfactory fit as flat bar bikes have different geometry.
#3
Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 48
Bikes: 1993 Fat Chance Wicked Lite, 1997 Spooky Mothership, Litespeed Obed, 1996 Cannondale R900, 1995 Diamondback Vertex. Note: None of my bikes are original spec. All are custom build ups.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I personally would go with the Trek option first. This would give it a new lease as you say. However, since you mentioned getting help from a co-op, you might be a little less willing than I would be for experimentation. If you aren't the type that does most of their wrenching themselves or just don't have the tools and know how and would rather just get it right and done the first time then my suggestion would be the Surly. You already know you like the frame so there's less chance of you putting all this effort into a bike that once it is built, you don't really like. I have nothing against Nashbar, but it would be the last of the three options you presented.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,505
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 139 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5681 Post(s)
Liked 2,386 Times
in
1,320 Posts
Not that it matters, but your bike was trashed in an MV collision, and it was a warranty? Nice of them, but I would have expected the car's insurance to pony up.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,250
Bikes: Kuota Ksano. Litespeed T5 gravel - brilliant!
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
I was hit by a car a couple months ago and the frame was trashed. I got a whole new bike under a warranty replacement AND the components from the junked frame (it was the seatstay that was bent, all the components were fine). So basically I'm left with: 2014 Sora Brifters, FSA triple crankset, front and rear Sora Derailleurs, pedals, drop bars, stem, brakes, wheels and a bottom bracket that are begging to be put on a new frame.
By my estimation, I only need new cables/housing, a headset, a frame and a fork and I can buildup a new bike! What I'd like, is a drop bar bike that could take wide tires, fenders and a rear rack for commuting and short rides on gravel.
My question comes down to three options:
1) I have a rain bike. Its a trek FX hybrid, but i've really grown to hate the flat bars and don't find it comfortable for my commutes. It just takes more effort and tires me out quicker than riding my road bike (a Jamis Quest). I could take all the components (mostly, I think I'd need new brakes) and give my trek a new lease on life as a drop-bar commuter/tourer. Wondering if the drop bars would help my comfort and level of exertion though. Not convinced that it would.
2) I could save up my bones to get a surly cross check frameset. I've test ridden the CC and its a nice ride. I know my size. Components would work well with it. Reviews rave about them. The most expensive option as a new CC frameset runs 480. With a headset, cables, new brakes and a donation to the local bike coop in exchange for help putting it all together I'm looking at $600.
3) I can buy a frame, fork and headset from nashbar (or keep an eye on craigslist for some other type of steel-framed bike to repurpose with my modern components). I'm intrigued by their $99 crmo cross frame as I've liked EVERY steel bike that i've ever ridden. I've priced up a frame, fork, brakes, cables, spacers and could buy this stuff for about $200 during one of their 20% coupon deals. With the help of a local bike coop, I could get everything up and running.
Any thoughts/sage advice/options?
Cheers!
By my estimation, I only need new cables/housing, a headset, a frame and a fork and I can buildup a new bike! What I'd like, is a drop bar bike that could take wide tires, fenders and a rear rack for commuting and short rides on gravel.
My question comes down to three options:
1) I have a rain bike. Its a trek FX hybrid, but i've really grown to hate the flat bars and don't find it comfortable for my commutes. It just takes more effort and tires me out quicker than riding my road bike (a Jamis Quest). I could take all the components (mostly, I think I'd need new brakes) and give my trek a new lease on life as a drop-bar commuter/tourer. Wondering if the drop bars would help my comfort and level of exertion though. Not convinced that it would.
2) I could save up my bones to get a surly cross check frameset. I've test ridden the CC and its a nice ride. I know my size. Components would work well with it. Reviews rave about them. The most expensive option as a new CC frameset runs 480. With a headset, cables, new brakes and a donation to the local bike coop in exchange for help putting it all together I'm looking at $600.
3) I can buy a frame, fork and headset from nashbar (or keep an eye on craigslist for some other type of steel-framed bike to repurpose with my modern components). I'm intrigued by their $99 crmo cross frame as I've liked EVERY steel bike that i've ever ridden. I've priced up a frame, fork, brakes, cables, spacers and could buy this stuff for about $200 during one of their 20% coupon deals. With the help of a local bike coop, I could get everything up and running.
Any thoughts/sage advice/options?
Cheers!
I looked to see if that frame is still available and it is not. However, Kinesis sells a road frame, the Racelight T2 that they call a winter bike ($314 includes delivery but no fork). (Tech White/Urban Grey. Supergloss Black/Tech White. Powder Blue/Tech White) Here's the marketing blurb, followed by a pic:
The winter training frame that other manufacturers have tried to copy, but never matched. This frame has been developed and refined over many years and has become the default choice for club riders and Pro’s over the winter months. There is a 48cm size to suit Female and Junior riders and all head tube lengths have been increased for extra comfort over distance.
The Racelight T2 has all the details that make a great winter trainer, commuter, lightweight tourer or Audax machine; Lightweight, 7005 double butted tubing, comfortable ‘anti roadshock’ seatstays for those long winter rides, stiff responsive chainstays for great response, plenty of clearance for full size mudguards [refer toFAQ's 16] and up to 28c tyres [long reach, 47/57mm brakes required], rack mounts, twin bottle cages and stunning, tougher, dual colour, paint finishes.
Another option is something available on closeout such as the Soma Saga Touring frame pictured below (only available in a 52cm, 26in) for $375 without fork. It'd be great to know the size you're looking for.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I'd built up a hybrid disc road frame in 2012 as an upright road bike. The frame can "fit" any size wheel because the disc brakes mean the diameter of the rim can vary. It'll fit 26" wheels with 1.75" tires or 700c with 32mm tires. Full fenders will fit on both. This winter I changed out the components because, like yourself, I just wasn't happy with upright bars. The bike I bought, Kinesis Tripster, came from the UK and is of top notch quality and finish. I had bought a frame from Nasbar a couple years earlier. It was very plain compared to the Kinesis frame which had better welds, a much better finish (paint and clear coat quality), and graphic details. Frankly, both were well designed for their purpose but the UK frame was special compared to Nasbar's Integrated Alloy road frame.
I looked to see if that frame is still available and it is not. However, Kinesis sells a road frame, the Racelight T2 that they call a winter bike ($314 includes delivery but no fork). (Tech White/Urban Grey. Supergloss Black/Tech White. Powder Blue/Tech White) Here's the marketing blurb, followed by a pic:
The winter training frame that other manufacturers have tried to copy, but never matched. This frame has been developed and refined over many years and has become the default choice for club riders and Pro’s over the winter months. There is a 48cm size to suit Female and Junior riders and all head tube lengths have been increased for extra comfort over distance.
The Racelight T2 has all the details that make a great winter trainer, commuter, lightweight tourer or Audax machine; Lightweight, 7005 double butted tubing, comfortable ‘anti roadshock’ seatstays for those long winter rides, stiff responsive chainstays for great response, plenty of clearance for full size mudguards [refer toFAQ's 16] and up to 28c tyres [long reach, 47/57mm brakes required], rack mounts, twin bottle cages and stunning, tougher, dual colour, paint finishes.
Another option is something available on closeout such as the Soma Saga Touring frame pictured below (only available in a 52cm, 26in) for $375 without fork. It'd be great to know the size you're looking for.
I looked to see if that frame is still available and it is not. However, Kinesis sells a road frame, the Racelight T2 that they call a winter bike ($314 includes delivery but no fork). (Tech White/Urban Grey. Supergloss Black/Tech White. Powder Blue/Tech White) Here's the marketing blurb, followed by a pic:
The winter training frame that other manufacturers have tried to copy, but never matched. This frame has been developed and refined over many years and has become the default choice for club riders and Pro’s over the winter months. There is a 48cm size to suit Female and Junior riders and all head tube lengths have been increased for extra comfort over distance.
The Racelight T2 has all the details that make a great winter trainer, commuter, lightweight tourer or Audax machine; Lightweight, 7005 double butted tubing, comfortable ‘anti roadshock’ seatstays for those long winter rides, stiff responsive chainstays for great response, plenty of clearance for full size mudguards [refer toFAQ's 16] and up to 28c tyres [long reach, 47/57mm brakes required], rack mounts, twin bottle cages and stunning, tougher, dual colour, paint finishes.
Another option is something available on closeout such as the Soma Saga Touring frame pictured below (only available in a 52cm, 26in) for $375 without fork. It'd be great to know the size you're looking for.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I personally would go with the Trek option first. This would give it a new lease as you say. However, since you mentioned getting help from a co-op, you might be a little less willing than I would be for experimentation. If you aren't the type that does most of their wrenching themselves or just don't have the tools and know how and would rather just get it right and done the first time then my suggestion would be the Surly. You already know you like the frame so there's less chance of you putting all this effort into a bike that once it is built, you don't really like. I have nothing against Nashbar, but it would be the last of the three options you presented.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,250
Bikes: Kuota Ksano. Litespeed T5 gravel - brilliant!
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
Looking for a size 54 in a Cross Check. I like the look of the Soma Saga (i've found several online with frame and fork for same price as the CC frameset). If I were to get something online, though, I'd either go with something I could test ride (like the CC) OR something that was cheap (nashbar).
Something closer to this? https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...s.php?id=67426
Last edited by cale; 06-09-15 at 08:35 PM.
#9
Senior Member
This is a really solid deal. Frame, fork, headset and stem for $399, and by all accoUnts a very nice frame at that.
2012 Breezer Venturi Frameset Blue/White Bikewagon
2012 Breezer Venturi Frameset Blue/White Bikewagon
#10
Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 48
Bikes: 1993 Fat Chance Wicked Lite, 1997 Spooky Mothership, Litespeed Obed, 1996 Cannondale R900, 1995 Diamondback Vertex. Note: None of my bikes are original spec. All are custom build ups.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I've got the willingness to learn but not the tools (thus the coop that would let me use their tools and maybe provide a little help). As near as I can figure, the conversion of the hybrid would only require a special tools for the bottom brack/crank installation. All else I'm willing to fiddle with on my bike stand to get mounted/adjusted/working. Youtube is my friend and has taught me to change flats, tune derailleurs, fix spokes, remove cassettes, etc. I'm confident I could get it done and working, but i'm not sure if the end result would be satisfactory .
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,250
Bikes: Kuota Ksano. Litespeed T5 gravel - brilliant!
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
This is a really solid deal. Frame, fork, headset and stem for $399, and by all accoUnts a very nice frame at that.
2012 Breezer Venturi Frameset Blue/White Bikewagon
2012 Breezer Venturi Frameset Blue/White Bikewagon
#12
Constant tinkerer
Since you already have the FX I think it's worth taking some measurements to see if it might make a good drop bar conversion. I successfully transformed an old Trek 730 MultiTrack to drop bars and it fits me perfectly. For me the most important measurement is from the top of the seatpost to the center of the handlebars. If that number is too big I know I won't be comfortable on the bike. Try measuring your current road bikes for reference.
I don't own a Cross Check but I'm a big fan, and I want one someday. The huge tire clearance in particular is very attractive. I was not impressed with some of the Nashbar frames I've seen over the years. But I've not owned one either, and they're a lot cheaper of course. If your budget is limited I'd try hunting down a used frame before buying a new Nashbar frame.
Great frame, terrible choice for what the OP intends to use it for.
I don't own a Cross Check but I'm a big fan, and I want one someday. The huge tire clearance in particular is very attractive. I was not impressed with some of the Nashbar frames I've seen over the years. But I've not owned one either, and they're a lot cheaper of course. If your budget is limited I'd try hunting down a used frame before buying a new Nashbar frame.
This is a really solid deal. Frame, fork, headset and stem for $399, and by all accoUnts a very nice frame at that.
2012 Breezer Venturi Frameset Blue/White Bikewagon
2012 Breezer Venturi Frameset Blue/White Bikewagon
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Seattle
Posts: 246
Bikes: 91 Trek franken '81 Schwinn Voyager
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Why a new frame? My favorite commuter frame was used at $40 and my favorite road frame $100. Lots of classy options including powdercoat color of your choice.
#14
Senior Member
#16
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Breezer looks snazzy, but my Jamis Quest is fine for a similar purpose. Want something for fatter tires, rack and fenders.
The Albion looks good (also looked into a Fyxation Quiver). I'll look around the area for someone that carries the Albion.
Muchas gracias for the insights!
The Albion looks good (also looked into a Fyxation Quiver). I'll look around the area for someone that carries the Albion.
Muchas gracias for the insights!
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Cabot, Arkansas
Posts: 1,538
Bikes: Lynskey Twisted Helix Di2 Ti, 1987 Orbea steel single speed/fixie, Orbea Avant M30, Trek Fuel EX9.8 29, Trek Madone 5 series, Specialized Epic Carbon Comp 29er, Trek 7.1F
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I would go with the Surly because it sounds like the one you really want.
#18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
New Albion is top of this list. $435 from American Cyclery for frame, fork and chasing/threading of BB and headtube. I can pickup the BB tool and crank puller for $20 on amazon (rather than letting a shop charge me $30 for that!). I've seen a few threads about installing a headset with homemade tools which looks easy enough, or just work with a bike coop.
However, this might be the lowest cost proposition for a new commuter. A fyxation quiver.
Quiver Steel Road Frameset | Fyxation
Just wondering if there's any reason that I couldn't put my triple drivetrain on here? They only mention single or double chain rings in their descriptions. IS there a particular reason the triple won't work?
However, this might be the lowest cost proposition for a new commuter. A fyxation quiver.
Quiver Steel Road Frameset | Fyxation
Just wondering if there's any reason that I couldn't put my triple drivetrain on here? They only mention single or double chain rings in their descriptions. IS there a particular reason the triple won't work?
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: North Texas
Posts: 137
Bikes: Centurion Ironman - Cannondale Six13 - Cannondale CAAD4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I had a similar situation where I had a pile of components and needed a frame.
I bought this from Amazon for 77 dollars and free delivery.
Open the box and look what the label says (Nashbar)
Then I reused every single part from the donor bike, right down to the bottom bracket cable guide. I did have to buy a headset (28 bucks). I even reused the cables.
Mocked up...
As soon as my tires arrive in the mail I'll have a complete bike. I don't have a current picture, but it's now totally complete other than tires and tubes.
I bought this from Amazon for 77 dollars and free delivery.
Open the box and look what the label says (Nashbar)
Then I reused every single part from the donor bike, right down to the bottom bracket cable guide. I did have to buy a headset (28 bucks). I even reused the cables.
Mocked up...
As soon as my tires arrive in the mail I'll have a complete bike. I don't have a current picture, but it's now totally complete other than tires and tubes.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 642 Times
in
363 Posts
Oh dear. You've caught the disease.
You have completely overlooked the cheapest option. That would be to simply throw away the extra components and not look back. Zero expenditure and you would be as well off as you were before the accident. Of course, nobody here would ever do that because we're all crazy too.
Now you are going to spend more money to build yourself an additional bike. Please let us know which you decide to do.
You have completely overlooked the cheapest option. That would be to simply throw away the extra components and not look back. Zero expenditure and you would be as well off as you were before the accident. Of course, nobody here would ever do that because we're all crazy too.
Now you are going to spend more money to build yourself an additional bike. Please let us know which you decide to do.
__________________
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Broad Brook CT
Posts: 549
Bikes: jamis 2002 komodo, univega aplina uno, miele toscana 300, 1972 puch brigadier, Marin Sausalito
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 17 Times
in
12 Posts
old steel bike with 27" wheels, that will get you [32mm] bigger tires. i been building up a 27" mixie and the brakes allowed me to drop the wheelset to 700c, with 35mm tires. the 35's might be to tight for fenders.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
kpmurphy
Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg)
47
03-07-13 09:45 PM