Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    contrarian lala's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    CO Springs
    My Bikes
    80's ross road bike/commuter, 80's team miyata, 90's haro mtb xtracycle conversion, koga mitaya world traveler
    Posts
    2,848
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Bar end shifter cable routing

    Can anyone post some pictorial suggestions on how to route bar end shifter cables so they exit at the top of the bar with the brake cables. Nokon?
    Higher ground for the apocalypse!

  2. #2
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Norwich, CT
    Posts
    38
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I havent taken pictures yet but I just wrapped a set tonight. I used nashbar bars that have cable grooves front and back. I used the front groove for my brake cables and ran the shifter cables along the back groove all the way up to the stem. They seem to work OK but I havent dialed in the RD yet. I had to buy a 105in shifter cable for the RD and 8ft of housing to wrap around the bars, although I have some housing left. Will try to get some pictures posted soon.

  3. #3
    Year-round cyclist
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Montréal (Québec)
    Posts
    3,023
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Standard brake shifter cables and housings is all that you need.

    Well, except that with my tall frame and wide handlebars, I use a regular rear shifter cable in front and a rear tandem shifter cable that is at least 2,75 m long for the rear cable.

    My rear cable is a teflon-coated one, but that's only because my LBS's non-coated tandem cables are 2,65 m long (hence 10 cm too short) while their coated ones are 3,0 m long.

    Photo here:
    http://www.mgagnon.net/velo/potence-double.en.shtml
    Michel Gagnon
    Montréal (Québec, Canada)

  4. #4
    contrarian lala's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    CO Springs
    My Bikes
    80's ross road bike/commuter, 80's team miyata, 90's haro mtb xtracycle conversion, koga mitaya world traveler
    Posts
    2,848
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Interesting. A buddy of mine was concerned about cable friction on the curves of the bars. He so wanted me to avoid the 'cable sticking out of the side of the drops' look. I think he's just hot for Nokon cable. So I should have no problem routing these up along the bar grooves? Thanks.
    Higher ground for the apocalypse!

  5. #5
    feros ferio John E's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
    My Bikes
    1959 Capo; 1980 Peugeot PKN-10; 1981 Bianchi; 1988 Schwinn KOM-10;
    Posts
    14,354
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I put early 1970s SunTour ratchet barcons on my 1972 Peugeot UO-8, and I wrapped the cables under the first few turns of handlebar tape, letting them emerge toward the insides of the bars at the bottoms of the curves, a bit below the brake handles. I looped the exposed cables over my retro cylindrical Bellwether handlebar bag, then down to cable stops where downtube shift levers would normally sit. This system looks great, works great, and does not get in my way at all.
    "Early to bed, early to rise. Work like hell, and advertise." -- George Stahlman
    Capo [dschaw'-poe]: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger, S/N 42624
    Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
    Bianchi: 1981 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
    Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    61
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I did what John E did. I used teflon liner material and also had no problems. The housings curve in to the headtube and downtube-mounted cablestops underneath the handlebar bag.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •